Chassis heat problems

[Don Bradner]

Shane, that's a new one, thanks!

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA

On 3/16/2008 at 11:13 AM sfedeli3 wrote:

>Hi Don,
>
> My guess is that one of your gate valves "dropped". Even though the
> valve handle is turning, the inner gate is not lifting. My front heat
>circuit did not work for 3 years. Tried flushing the entire loop,
>replacing sporlans, relays, dash switches, circulating pump and still
>no heat. Finally, removed the gate valve when I pulled the water pump
>to replace it and saw that the gate was in the down position. The
>inner threads had eroded and when you rotated the handle, nothing
>would happen to the gate. I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves with ball
>valves.
>
>Shane Fedeli
>85PT40
>Hershey, PA
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> wrote:
>>
>> I thought about the thermostat thing, and won't be able to test it
>until I roll it on the road in a couple of weeks, but here's the
>reason I don't think it is the case: During all of the time when the
>pump was running with the engine on, the fittings all stayed cold. Not
>hot, not warm, but cold to the touch. When I pulled the top off the
>pump (engine was shut down), the coolant that came out of the intake
>side was hot, and the brass top became almost too hot to touch. So, I
>have to assume that the coolant was not flowing (valve closed or
>blockage) and that if it had, it would have been hot.
>>
>> On 3/15/2008 at 6:40 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
>>
>> >I don't know the system other than reading your posts. Never had any
>> >trouble. Apparently, mine is the same or very similar. I have two gate
>> >valves in the engine bay which I leave open. If the water to the front
>> >chassis heater through the gate valves requires the engine
>thermostats to
>> >be open, I would not think 160 degrees would open the engine
>> >thermostats,(they are typically 180 but could be 170 by owners choice),
>> >hence no hot water to the heater. I will snoop around my coach tomorrow
>> >and see where those gate valve lines connect. I would bet after the
>> >thermostats.
>> >Just throwing darts.
>> >Leroy Eckert
>> >1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
>> >Dahlonega, GA
>> >Royale Conversion
>> >
>> >Don Bradner wrote:
>> >Well, it is back to the drawing board. The valve has been removed and
>> >replaced, and the voltage tested. What I learned:
>> >
>> > The valve up front is a normally-open valve, closed by power
>coming from
>> >the timing circuit. Plus 12 volts is fed down to the valve, then back
>> >through another wire to (somewhere) that gets power to the #12
>relay. When
>> >the relay is powered, there is no power to the circulation pump or the
>> >Sporlan valve.
>> >
>> > So, power on, both valves are closed, one by the presence of
>power, the
>> >other by the absence of power, and the pump is off.
>> >
>> > When the valve was re-installed I left the power connection off,
>so the
>> >valve was open (bench test had shown it working, and it was left in the
>> >open position). When the key was turned on, the Sporlan opened, and the
>> >pump ran continuously. The pump never faltered, but nothing in the
>system
>> >got even warm to the touch (outside temp in the 40s, engine about
>160).
>> >
>> > I pulled the top of the pump off and managed to lose about 4
>gallons of
>> >coolant in the process - certainly the supply side of the pump is
>> >unobstructed! Replaced the gasket and reassembled, after
>ascertaining that
>> >the pump runs well and there is no damage to any of the impellor
>blades.
>> >
>> > Both gate valves are wide open, which I assume is the correct setting
>> >(and I presume they should have been closed before I messed with
>the pump!)
>> >
>> > Looking for new possiblities, if anyone has any ideas.
>> >
>> > Don Bradner
>> > 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
>> > Eureka, CA
>> >
>> > On 3/15/2008 at 5:52 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
>> >
>> > >If you cant remove the valve maybe try and bypass it to see that
>> > >that is the problem first???? KevinMk did that with a remote air
>> > >regulator or somthing????
>> > >GregoryO'Connor
>> > >94ptRomolandCa
>> > >
>> > >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
>> > > wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> My concern is that the front valve may be the plug in the loop, if
>> > >it is not opening. Temperature of the engine is not an issue - I ran
>> > >it at idle today up to about 160 so that I would have it warm enough
>> > >to be sure to feel the heat. All lines stayed cold, including the
>> > >top of the pump, until I allowed the pump to run open via the
>> > >dismantled Sporlan. Only took a couple of quarts of coolant spilled
>> > >to heat up everything through the pump to the valve.
>> > >>
>> > >> On 3/15/2008 at 4:25 AM Gregory OConnor wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> >Could be the pump works when not held against a closed loop????
>> > >maybe
>> > >> >the return line is simply plugged up. or your fan is staying on,
>> > >and
>> > >> >the detroit isnt getting hot??
>> > >> >
>> > >> >The camera trick is one CurtS taught me to do. I have even taken
>> > >10
>> > >> >meg picks of part labels then was able to read them on the
>> > >computer
>> > >> >screen.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >When you look at all the controls and appliances exposed to the
>> > >> >weather on these rigs it is a wonder that anything works.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >GregoryO'Connor
>> > >> >94ptRomolandCa
>> > >>
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
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