Chassis heat problems

[pattypape]

Don,

This is a far out possibility, but, searching for an explanation.
I have found some strange wireing errors on my Bird. These Birds
were hand wired , and easy to make a mistake, with color-coding and
thousands of connections.
So, My suggestion is to check the polarity of the 12 volts, the pump
may be turning in reverse.

Bill 88 FC Michigan

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
wrote:
>
> I did not pull and bench test the pump. It is pump design I'm very
familiar with (sold a lot of that design over the years), and is
mighty simple. So long as it turns easily (it does) and has no broken
blades (it doesn't) there isn't much to go wrong. This design has no
problems with blockages - it will turn freely without pumping
anything.
>
> On 3/16/2008 at 3:28 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
>
> >I know you will post the result when you find out. I took your
photo and
> >looked at mine. If I have a sporlan valve in my system it is in
parts
> >unknown. Strange. I don't have any other ideas except something is
> >interrupting the flow in the loop assuming the Graco is actually
pumping
> >properly. Did you check the Graco for flow on the bench?
> >
> >Leroy Eckert
> >1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> >Dahlonega, GA
> >
> >Don Bradner wrote:
> >The front valve on mine should keep the front radiator cool when
the slide
> >is in the cool position, but I can see where manual override might
be
> >needed.
> >
> > Both of my gate valves are at similar heights. For reference for
anyone
> >following this thread I've put up a picture with components
labeled, here:
> > http://www.arcatapet.net/image/heaterplumbing.jpg
> >
> > When I took the top off the Graco pump I lost nearly 5 gallons of
> >coolant! I'm guessing that is because the top of the radiator is
higher
> >still. Couldn't stop the flow, because the gasket got
ripped/destroyed in
> >the removal. I wouldn't want to try to remove either valve without
> >draining a lot, first!
> >
> > On 3/16/2008 at 1:15 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
> >
> > >Shane may have a different theory.
> > >Straight through-I guess the theory for the valves in the first
place may
> > >be two fold. One to cut off the hot water to the heater core in
summer. I
> > >never close mine and have not noticed any difference. The fans
are off as
> > >are the slide switch. The hot air blows out of different vents
than the
> > >chassis air. Two, if a leak developed forward of the engine the
gate
> > >valves would stop the leak until repaired. "???????"
> > >
> > >My valves bottom and top out.
> > >
> > >I do not know where the best place to drain is located. I can
see how I
> > >could change the valve that screws into the right thermostat
housing
> > >without draining and not have much fluid loss. The other one on
my coach
> > >is down low in front of the rear bumper and may be another issue.
> > >
> > >Leroy Eckert
> > >1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> > >Dahlonega, GA
> > >Royale Conversion
> > >
> > >Don Bradner wrote:
> >
> > >Three questions:
> > >
> > > Why replace the valve at all, rather than a straight-through?
> > >
> > > Did the handle still come to a stop at each end of travel (mine
do)?
> > >
> > > Where do you drain the coolant in order to get it low enough to
remove
> > >the valves?
> > >
> > > On 3/16/2008 at 4:41 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
> > >
> > > >Good luck! I sure hope it fixes your problem. I was so darn
confounded
> > > >with mine that I eventually gave up and just listened to Kelly
> > > >complain about cold feet. Finding the dropped gate was purely
> > > >accidental. The R&R on the water pump was just
some "preventative"
> > > >maintenance that I had elected to do.
> > > >
> > > >-- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> > > > wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> Shane, that's a new one, thanks!
> > > >>
> > > >> Don Bradner
> > > >> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> > > >> Eureka, CA
> > > >>
> > > >> On 3/16/2008 at 11:13 AM sfedeli3 wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> >Hi Don,
> > > >> >
> > > >> > My guess is that one of your gate valves "dropped". Even
though
> >the
> > > >> > valve handle is turning, the inner gate is not lifting. My
front
> >heat
> > > >> >circuit did not work for 3 years. Tried flushing the entire
loop,
> > > >> >replacing sporlans, relays, dash switches, circulating pump
and
> >still
> > > >> >no heat. Finally, removed the gate valve when I pulled the
water
> >pump
> > > >> >to replace it and saw that the gate was in the down
position. The
> > > >> >inner threads had eroded and when you rotated the handle,
nothing
> > > >> >would happen to the gate. I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves
with ball
> > > >> >valves.
> > > >> >
> > > >> >Shane Fedeli
> > > >> >85PT40
> > > >> >Hershey, PA
> > > >> >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
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