Chassis heat problems

[Leroy Eckert]

For info.
One thing that I learned working on the climate control of my old MBZ is I never drain the radiator because the system is a pain to purge. It also has a aux water pump. I simply pull the hose off and plug it with a rubber plug or cork. I did the same when I had to change the pump on my Webasto. Minimal fluid loss.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
Dahlonega, GA

Don Bradner wrote:

I did not pull and bench test the pump. It is pump design I'm very familiar with (sold a lot of that design
over the years), and is mighty simple. So long as it turns easily (it does) and has no broken blades (it doesn't) there isn't much to go wrong. This design has no problems with blockages - it will turn freely without pumping anything.

On 3/16/2008 at 3:28 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:

>I know you will post the result when you find out. I took your photo and
>looked at mine. If I have a sporlan valve in my system it is in parts
>unknown. Strange. I don't have any other ideas except something is
>interrupting the flow in the loop assuming the Graco is actually pumping
>properly. Did you check the Graco for flow on the bench?
>
>Leroy Eckert
>1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
>Dahlonega, GA
>
>Don Bradner <"bluethunder%40arcatapet.com"> wrote:
>The front valve on mine should keep the front radiator cool
when the slide
>is in the cool position, but I can see where manual override might be
>needed.
>
> Both of my gate valves are at similar heights. For reference for anyone
>following this thread I've put up a picture with components labeled, here:
> http://www.arcatapet.net/image/heaterplumbing.jpg
>
> When I took the top off the Graco pump I lost nearly 5 gallons of
>coolant! I'm guessing that is because the top of the radiator is higher
>still. Couldn't stop the flow, because the gasket got ripped/destroyed in
>the removal. I wouldn't want to try to remove either valve without
>draining a lot, first!
>
> On 3/16/2008 at 1:15 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
>
> >Shane may have a different theory.
> >Straight through-I guess the theory for the valves in the first place may

> >be two fold. One to cut off the hot water to the heater core in summer. I
> >never close mine and have not noticed any difference. The fans are off as
> >are the slide switch. The hot air blows out of different vents than the
> >chassis air. Two, if a leak developed forward of the engine the gate
> >valves would stop the leak until repaired. "???????"
> >
> >My valves bottom and top out.
> >
> >I do not know where the best place to drain is located. I can see how I
> >could change the valve that screws into the right thermostat housing
> >without draining and not have much fluid loss. The other one on my coach
> >is down low in front of the rear bumper and may be another issue.
> >
> >Leroy Eckert
> >1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> >Dahlonega, GA
> >Royale Conversion
> >
> >Don Bradner
<"bluethunder%40arcatapet.com"> wrote:
>
> >Three questions:
> >
> > Why replace the valve at all, rather than a straight-through?
> >
> > Did the handle still come to a stop at each end of travel (mine do)?
> >
> > Where do you drain the coolant in order to get it low enough to remove
> >the valves?
> >
> > On 3/16/2008 at 4:41 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
> >
> > >Good luck! I sure hope it fixes your problem. I was so darn confounded
> > >with mine that I eventually gave up and just listened to Kelly
> > >complain about cold feet. Finding the dropped gate was purely
> > >accidental. The R&R on the water pump was just some "preventative"
> > >maintenance that I had elected to do.
> > >

> > >-- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Don Bradner"
> > >...> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Shane, that's a new one, thanks!
> > >>
> > >> Don Bradner
> > >> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> > >> Eureka, CA
> > >>
> > >> On 3/16/2008 at 11:13 AM sfedeli3 wrote:
> > >>
> > >> >Hi Don,
> > >> >
> > >> > My guess is that one of your gate valves "dropped". Even though
>the
> > >> > valve handle is turning, the inner gate is not lifting. My front
>heat
> > >> >circuit did not work for 3 years. Tried flushing the entire loop,
> > >> >replacing sporlans, relays, dash switches, circulating pump and

>still
> > >> >no heat. Finally, removed the gate valve when I pulled the water
>pump
> > >> >to replace it and saw that the gate was in the down position. The
> > >> >inner threads had eroded and when you rotated the handle, nothing
> > >> >would happen to the gate. I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves with ball
> > >> >valves.
> > >> >
> > >> >Shane Fedeli
> > >> >85PT40
> > >> >Hershey, PA
> > >> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >------------------------------------
> > >
> > >Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
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> >
> >
> >
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