Chassis heat problems

[Don Bradner]

Never mind - I found a fourth gate valve. This one is down below the right side
of the Sporlan valve, after the water heater circuit returns. Another hard
location, and it is bad. I think I can do the same replacement of the
handle/stem/gate that I did on the other one.

On 3/22/2008 at 8:55 AM Don Bradner wrote:

>I suspect that valve on the bottom of the water pump takes the highest
>heat and flow, which may explain why it erodes faster. Particularly if
>there is one exit and two returns. I'm still not clear about whether I
>should be looking for a fourth gate valve?
>
>Unless I ever have to remove the water pump for some other reason, I don't
>think that valve will get replaced. I will keep the other decent core for
>potential repair in a few years - if push comes to shove I will do what
>Greg said, gut the valve, and put another immediately downstream. Not
>necessary to do any major work to gut it, just remove the gate from the
>stem and discard, then replace the stem.
>
>Don Bradner
>90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
>Eureka, CA
>
>On 3/22/2008 at 1:45 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
>
>>Hi Don,
>>
>> I know that you don't want to hear this- but it was the one that
>>you're talking about on the bottom of the water pump that failed on
>>mine. Replacing the innards is a good move- and should solve your
>>problem. Some plumbing supply houses may carry new gates and seals for
>>the valve, but good luck finding a perfect match. Sadly, I do not
>>think that there is any way to replace that valve without having the
>>water pump off- and that is a challenge in itself. Maneuvering a 25 lb
>>chunk of iron with fittings and trying to match up the drive gears was
>>a real PITA.
>>
>>Shane Fedeli
>>85PT40
>>Hershey, PA
>>
>> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Back for more. Over the past two days I pulled the two gate valves
>>that I show in the image at
>>> http://www.arcatapet.net/image/heaterplumbing.jpg
>>>
>>> Both looked and operated fine, but I agree a ball valve is much
>>better, so I replaced them. Not a fun job getting things out, as there
>>isn't much room to wrench. Had to drop the air conditioning pump down
>>to have room to turn the right-hand one.
>>>
>>> As I was installing the left ball valve, I happened to notice that
>>there was another valve below the water pump - black with grease, and
>>hard to see - even harder to get to. It wasn't until I came back to
>>your post, Shane, to make this post that I happened to read new
>>meaning into the "I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves with ball valves." I
>>assumed you meant 2 gates, 1 Sporlan, 1 Bosch, which is what I knew I
>>had; now I'm thinking you meant 4 gate valves. Am I missing a 4th gate
>>valve somewhere?
>>>
>>> Anyway, I reached down and spun the handle, and spun the handle some
>>more. No stops, either direction. Sigh. I don't think I could get that
>>valve out without removing the water pump, which I really don't want
>>to tackle.
>>>
>>> So, what I did was to unscrew the top of the valve (a difficult
>>thing in its own right), and replace the handle/stem/gate with the
>>best of the other two. You can see it here after replacement, as well
>>as the handle of the left-side ball valve:
>>http://www.arcatapet.net/image/thirdvalve.jpg
>>>
>>> A picture of the valve stems is here:
>>http://www.arcatapet.net/image/erodedthreads.jpg
>>>
>>> On the left is the other "good" valve, and on the right is the bad
>>one from below the water pump. The threads are just eroded away enough
>>that the gate will slip somewhat freely on the stem.
>>>
>>> Unless I can find another valve to look at, tomorrow will be spent
>>filtering 8 gallons of collected coolant for replacement, then
>>checking for leaks, etc.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>------------------------------------
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