Wood Plank Sand and Finish Floor

[Leroy A. Eckert]

Ernie or anyone else:
I am considering installing a custom sand and finish floor from the
kitchen tile forward probably with inlays made from exotic wood to and
including the stair well surround. I know how to install, I think, but
this is what I want to do.
Purchase 12" red oak planks 1/2" thick(my coach is red oak), plane it
down (probably to about 3/8")to meet the elevation of the tile to
eliminate any transition strip between the tile and wood, t&g it then
screw and glue it down. I would pre-sanded, stain and first coat the
wood prior to installation. The final finish and detail would be
applied in the coach. Can I do this, and how thin can I plane 12"
plank wood and expect it not to crack.
Thanks,
Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
Dahlonega, GA
Royale Conversion

[Donald Spithaler]

Leroy
I have planed 12" down to 3/8" without it splitting but it would hard to screw it down through the groove. I put 3/4 X 5 1/4" oak in mine & that was hard to screw through the groove. I used a trim screw with a real small head. They were made to screw wood trim to metal studs. They were self tapping but I pre drilled them first.

Don Spithaler
89 SP 36'
Butler, PA

On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 9:15 AM, Leroy A. Eckert <"jwasnewski@yahoo.com"> wrote:

Ernie or anyone else:

I am considering installing a custom sand and finish floor from the

kitchen tile forward probably with inlays made from exotic wood to and

including the stair well surround. I know how to install, I think, but

this is what I want to do.

Purchase 12" red oak planks 1/2" thick(my coach is red oak), plane it

down (probably to about 3/8")to meet the elevation of the tile to

eliminate any transition strip between the tile and wood, t&g it then

screw and glue it down. I would pre-sanded, stain and first coat the

wood prior to installation. The final finish and detail would be

applied in the coach. Can I do this, and how thin can I plane 12"

plank wood and expect it not to crack.

Thanks,

Leroy Eckert

1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors

Dahlonega, GA

Royale Conversion

[bubblerboy64]

Leroy, I can't answer your question but I have one for you. When you
said glue and screw down the flooring. Where do you place the screws?
In the T&G area or thru the flooring itself and then plug or fill the
screw holes? Sounds like you are going to have a very pretty floor
when you are finished. Usually on hardwood floors they nail thru the
T&G area don't they, for home use? Something I would like to do some
time down the road. I have the idea that I would like to eventually
recarpet back to just behind the front seats and then have some type
of hard flooring back thru the bus, maybe keeping the carpet in the
back bed room area.
John Heckman
central Pa
1973 FC
>
> Ernie or anyone else:
> I am considering installing a custom sand and finish floor from the
> kitchen tile forward probably with inlays made from exotic wood to
and
> including the stair well surround. I know how to install, I think,
but
> this is what I want to do.
> Purchase 12" red oak planks 1/2" thick(my coach is red oak), plane
it
> down (probably to about 3/8")to meet the elevation of the tile to
> eliminate any transition strip between the tile and wood, t&g it
then
> screw and glue it down. I would pre-sanded, stain and first coat the
> wood prior to installation. The final finish and detail would be
> applied in the coach. Can I do this, and how thin can I plane 12"
> plank wood and expect it not to crack.
> Thanks,
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> Dahlonega, GA
> Royale Conversion
>

[Leroy Eckert]

John and Don.
My thought about screwing the floor down was from the top and plug the holes with dowels. I would do that in symmetry. I was afraid of splitting the planed down wood if I nailed or screwed it in the groove. Since Don has screwed his down with pre-drilling perhaps it would work on thin wood. The other idea about screwing from the top was the slight detail it would provide similar to the antique chairs I have where the wood dowel shows.. It would also allow me to situate the inlays easier, I think, don't know.
Any ideas appreciated. I suspect it will be a difficult job but the result would be outstanding and unique. I am considering an inlay of 2" border or approx. to allow me to use two full center planks with a inlay BB logo in the center of the living area perhaps made from African Blackwood if I can find it.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
Dahlonega, GA
Royale Conversion

bubblerboy64
wrote:

Leroy, I can't answer your question but I have one for you. When you
said glue and screw down the flooring. Where do you place the screws?
In the T&G area or thru the flooring itself and then plug or fill the
screw holes? Sounds like you are going to have a very pretty floor
when you are finished. Usually on hardwood floors they nail thru the
T&G area don't they, for home use? Something I would like to do some
time down the road. I have the idea that I would like to eventually
recarpet back
to just behind the front seats and then have some type
of hard flooring back thru the bus, maybe keeping the carpet in the
back bed room area.
John Heckman
central Pa
1973 FC
>
> Ernie or anyone else:
> I am considering installing a custom sand and finish floor from the
> kitchen tile forward probably with inlays made from exotic wood to
and
> including the stair well surround. I know how to install, I think,
but
> this is what I want to do.
> Purchase 12" red oak planks 1/2" thick(my coach is red oak), plane
it
> down (probably to about 3/8")to meet the elevation of the tile to
> eliminate any transition strip between the tile and wood, t&g it
then
> screw and glue it down. I would pre-sanded, stain and first coat the
> wood prior to installation. The final finish and detail would be
> applied in the coach. Can I do this, and how thin can I
plane 12"
> plank wood and expect it not to crack.
> Thanks,
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> Dahlonega, GA
> Royale Conversion
>

[Donald Spithaler]

Leroy
One thing you will have to consider is in the living room you will have an access to the fuel tank gauge. I found mine when I carpeted the front room. You would have to drop your tank to replace it. I wander what they do when they use granite throughout the coach.

Don Spithaler
89 SP 36'
Butler, PA

On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 10:39 AM, Leroy Eckert <"jwasnewski@yahoo.com"> wrote:

John and Don.
My thought about screwing the floor down was from the top and plug the holes with dowels. I would do that in symmetry. I was afraid of splitting the planed down wood if I nailed or screwed it in the groove. Since Don has screwed his down with pre-drilling perhaps it would work on thin wood. The other idea about screwing from the top was the slight detail it would provide similar to the antique chairs I have where the wood dowel shows.. It would also allow me to situate the inlays easier, I think, don't know.

Any ideas appreciated. I suspect it will be a difficult job but the result would be outstanding and unique. I am considering an inlay of 2" border or approx. to allow me to use two full center planks with a inlay BB logo in the center of the living area perhaps made from African Blackwood if I can find it.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
Dahlonega, GA
Royale Conversion

bubblerboy64
<"jehdds@hotmail.com"> wrote:

Leroy, I can't answer your question but I have one for you. When you

said glue and screw down the flooring. Where do you place the screws?
In the T&G area or thru the flooring itself and then plug or fill the
screw holes? Sounds like you are going to have a very pretty floor

when you are finished. Usually on hardwood floors they nail thru the
T&G area don't they, for home use? Something I would like to do some
time down the road. I have the idea that I would like to eventually

recarpet back
to just behind the front seats and then have some type
of hard flooring back thru the bus, maybe keeping the carpet in the
back bed room area.
John Heckman
central Pa
1973 FC
>
> Ernie or anyone else:

> I am considering installing a custom sand and finish floor from the
> kitchen tile forward probably with inlays made from exotic wood to
and
> including the stair well surround. I know how to install, I think,

but
> this is what I want to do.
> Purchase 12" red oak planks 1/2" thick(my coach is red oak), plane
it
> down (probably to about 3/8")to meet the elevation of the tile to
> eliminate any transition strip between the tile and wood, t&g it

then
> screw and glue it down. I would pre-sanded, stain and first coat the
> wood prior to installation. The final finish and detail would be
> applied in the coach. Can I do this, and how thin can I
plane 12"
> plank wood and expect it not to crack.
> Thanks,
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> Dahlonega, GA
> Royale Conversion
>

[Pete Masterson]

When I installed my hardwood floor, I uses prefinished plank bamboo.
I glued it down. Working with the glue was miserable but in the end,
it was easy and quite effective. (These were planks of solid bamboo,
not an engineered product.)

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
aeonix1@...
On the road at CCW in RIverside, CA (still... <sigh>)



On Jun 3, 2008, at 6:59 AM, Donald Spithaler wrote:

> Leroy
> I have planed 12" down to 3/8" without it splitting but it
> would hard to screw it down through the groove. I put 3/4 X 5 1/4"
> oak in mine & that was hard to screw through the groove. I used a
> trim screw with a real small head. They were made to screw wood
> trim to metal studs. They were self tapping but I pre drilled them
> first.
> Don Spithaler
> 89 SP 36'
> Butler, PA
> On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 9:15 AM, Leroy A. Eckert
> wrote:
> Ernie or anyone else:
> I am considering installing a custom sand and finish floor from the
> kitchen tile forward probably with inlays made from exotic wood to and
> including the stair well surround. I know how to install, I think, but
> this is what I want to do.
> Purchase 12" red oak planks 1/2" thick(my coach is red oak), plane it
> down (probably to about 3/8")to meet the elevation of the tile to
> eliminate any transition strip between the tile and wood, t&g it then
> screw and glue it down. I would pre-sanded, stain and first coat the
> wood prior to installation. The final finish and detail would be
> applied in the coach. Can I do this, and how thin can I plane 12"
> plank wood and expect it not to crack.
> Thanks,
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> Dahlonega, GA
> Royale Conversion
>
>
>
>

[erniecarpet@...]

Hi Leroy, you have come across a field that I have never tried- sanding and finishing. I guess I'm lazy , cause I use the prefinished material.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Montana

---

Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.

[robert nloomas]

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Leroy A. Eckert"
wrote:
> A few years ago I remove all the carpet from my bird and installed
tong & grove red oak flooring.It took me a month to do the install
and three days to clean up all the sanding dust.I no this is not the
question you are asking.The big problem I found laying a plank
flooring is that nothing is square or level.Even with the mess it was
easier for me to lay the flood plug and screw the floor into place
then
sand after sanding the floor I finish the floor with three coats of
Min wax polyurethane.
Bob Loomas PT 36 85
Harahan La.

> Ernie or anyone else:
> I am considering installing a custom sand and finish floor from the
> kitchen tile forward probably with inlays made from exotic wood to
and
> including the stair well surround. I know how to install, I think,
but
> this is what I want to do.
> Purchase 12" red oak planks 1/2" thick(my coach is red oak), plane
it
> down (probably to about 3/8")to meet the elevation of the tile to
> eliminate any transition strip between the tile and wood, t&g it
then
> screw and glue it down. I would pre-sanded, stain and first coat the
> wood prior to installation. The final finish and detail would be
> applied in the coach. Can I do this, and how thin can I plane 12"
> plank wood and expect it not to crack.
> Thanks,
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> Dahlonega, GA
> Royale Conversion
>

[Leroy Eckert]

Thanks to all for the replies. I think I will try it sometime in the near future. One more question. Did you let the wood acclimate inside the coach for a period before installation?

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
Dahlonega, GA
Royale Conversion

robert nloomas <bbpt36@...> wrote:

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Leroy A. Eckert"
...> wrote:
> A few years ago I remove all the carpet from my bird and installed

tong & grove red oak flooring.It took me a month to do the install
and three days to clean up all the sanding dust.I no this is not the
question you are asking.The big problem I found laying a plank
flooring is that nothing is square or level.Even with the mess it was
easier for me to lay the flood plug and screw the floor into place
then
sand after sanding the floor I finish the floor with three coats of
Min wax polyurethane.
Bob Loomas PT 36 85
Harahan La.

> Ernie or anyone else:
> I am considering installing a custom sand and finish floor from the
> kitchen tile forward probably with inlays made from exotic wood to
and
> including the stair well surround. I know how to install, I think,
but
> this is what I want to do.
> Purchase 12" red oak planks 1/2" thick(my coach is red oak), plane
it
> down (probably to about 3/8")to meet the
elevation of the tile to
> eliminate any transition strip between the tile and wood, t&g it
then
> screw and glue it down. I would pre-sanded, stain and first coat the
> wood prior to installation. The final finish and detail would be
> applied in the coach. Can I do this, and how thin can I plane 12"
> plank wood and expect it not to crack.
> Thanks,
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> Dahlonega, GA
> Royale Conversion
>

[Gregory OConnor]

Leroy, I'm no interior decorator but with all the beautiful wood
cabinets you have in your bus now, would a wood floor be too much???
Sounds like it will look 'vintage nautical'not that that is a bad
thing.

How much wood would a wood bus use if a wood bus would be too
woody?

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Leroy Eckert
wrote:
>
> Thanks to all for the replies. I think I will try it sometime in
the near future. One more question. Did you let the wood acclimate
inside the coach for a period before installation?
>
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> Dahlonega, GA
> Royale Conversion
>
> robert nloomas <bbpt36@...> wrote: ---
In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Leroy A. Eckert"
> wrote:
> > A few years ago I remove all the carpet from my bird and
installed
> tong & grove red oak flooring.It took me a month to do the
install
> and three days to clean up all the sanding dust.I no this is not
the
> question you are asking.The big problem I found laying a plank
> flooring is that nothing is square or level.Even with the mess it
was
> easier for me to lay the flood plug and screw the floor into
place
> then
> sand after sanding the floor I finish the floor with three coats
of
> Min wax polyurethane.
> Bob Loomas PT 36 85
> Harahan La.
>
> > Ernie or anyone else:
> > I am considering installing a custom sand and finish floor from
the
> > kitchen tile forward probably with inlays made from exotic wood
to
> and
> > including the stair well surround. I know how to install, I
think,
> but
> > this is what I want to do.
> > Purchase 12" red oak planks 1/2" thick(my coach is red oak),
plane
> it
> > down (probably to about 3/8")to meet the elevation of the tile
to
> > eliminate any transition strip between the tile and wood, t&g
it
> then
> > screw and glue it down. I would pre-sanded, stain and first
coat the
> > wood prior to installation. The final finish and detail would be
> > applied in the coach. Can I do this, and how thin can I plane
12"
> > plank wood and expect it not to crack.
> > Thanks,
> > Leroy Eckert
> > 1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> > Dahlonega, GA
> > Royale Conversion
> >
>