Door repairs

[Gregory OConnor]

Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push on the door to
line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as I cant see or
feel what is going on in the jamb. I think someone replaced the
seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber product. fat seals endup
causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn on the
lock. One other issue is that the door on my 94 is alumnium and
swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some things to
consider with your project

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
> Hi Leroy,
>
> It's just a regular old deadbolt lock with an electric solenoid
> attached to it. There is a normal deadbolt knob on the inside that
> works perfectly if the electrics have failed. So when I need to
exit
> the coach, I can just turn the deadbolt by hand - which is exactly
> what I'm doing now, because the electrics of mine aren't working
> right.
>
> All I want to do is add a remote entry trigger to the same
deadbolt,
> so I can lock and unlock it from outside the bus without using the
> key. This doesn't change anything in terms of exit safety; the
> original deadbolt is still there, along with it's manual knob.
>
> Appreciate the replies. I'll go check out that door seal from
Lowe's,
> and will see if I can't take the door apart and trace out the
wiring
> on the lock. Thanks everyone.
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>
> On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 6:20 PM, Leroy Eckert
wrote:
> > In the bus, in case of fire the auto remote lock will not work.
There is
> > only one way out except for the windows and the sooner you are
out the
> > better. I keep a mini sledge in the bedroom just in case, to
hell with
> > depending on the windows to slide even though they do. You just
cannot be to
> > careful.
> >
>