6" SS EXHAUST STACK

[Terry Neal]

Very, very nice Kurt. You obviously have
a lot of thought and planning into this "upgrade". Think I'll just
imitate your design. If that's ok with you?



Terry

Trying to survive at 7 deg F. Wind chill is -8 deg F.



Ernie... are you warm?

Terry Neal

Bozeman, MT

82PT40 6V92TA

74FC34 6V53T











Kurt Horvath wrote:











So far as constructed it can divert all but a dribble of 5 gallons a 



min. flow. If it rains that hard I think I'd worry more about the 



coach sinking into the ground. You can try to bend .083 thick SS. 



Good luck. The slits are flush and polished to keep the gas flow 



unrestricted. The catch can is a bit large, but does fit my 



application and has a large enough capacity to compensate for my lack 



of attention. Also if I use the Rain Cap or the 90 Degree turn out 



with it's anti-rain provisions the catch can is overkill. That's the 



fun part of building stuff your self. You get to do whatever suits 



you.---Again this is the prototype I built for my coach, the 



production version is a copy of the OEM parts in SS and includes a 



muffler and a 90 degree turn out tip. The catch can came about from 



our past discussions on the subject, and until I can get it mounted 



in the coach, it's purely experimental







Kurt Horvath



95 PT 42



10AC







In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com",

David Brady "dmb993@..." wrote:



>



> Kurt,



> 



> I think that your water trap is a good design. I'd probably shorten



> the accumulator tank/pipe to around 3 inches, just enough to 



capture the



> occasional burst of water, and I'd probably simply drill a quarter



> inch hole in the bottom. That should do it. To make it even better



> you could bend the slits on the exhaust pipe a bit to create a set





of



> scoops to better collect the water. Should work fine.



> 



> David Brady



> '02 LXi, NC



> 



> Kurt Horvath wrote:



> >



> >



> >



> > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build.

I



> > should have some photos today rain permitting.



> >



> > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not

fully



> > considered or researched.



> >



> > Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30

degree



> > miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks

bottom



> > inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the

rain 



out.



> >



> > Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I

wanted I



> > have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight

stack



> > with a rain cap.



> >



> > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.



> >



> > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the



> > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with

mufflers 



have



> > water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled

into



> > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a 



straight



> > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would

not



> > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain



> > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a

lot of



> > water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day 



sooner



> > or later your going to fill the block with water. According to



> > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words 



Catastrophic



> > Failure several times.



> >



> > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on

the 



Home



> > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are 



looking at



> > is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5

gallons 



per



> > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of

tube 



on



> > the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric 



exhaust



> > dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water 



trap. At



> > this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by

a



> > remote key fob.



> >



> > I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the





valve



> > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it

detects 



water



> > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it

when 



parked



> > and close it before you crank up the motor



> >



> > Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows,

and 



the



> > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to 



another



> > modification.



> >



> > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a



> > glaring defect or error in my build.



> >



> > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the

coach,



> > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten



> > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she





would



> > sitting for a while.



> >



> > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.



> >



> > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct

replacement 



for



> > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless

Steel



> > and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM 



parts.



> >



> > Kurt Horvath



> > 95 PT 42



> > 10AC



> >



> > 



> > ----------------------------------------------------------



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> >



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12/3/2008 5:41 PM



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