GFI Faults and interior light replacemts

[freewill2008]

110 AC ballasts have only one job to do: Place a coil (some
inductance) across the leads to the tube. This offsets the
capacative nature of the tube and lets it draw enuf AC power to light
up. Modern solid-state ballasts immitate the coil but more
efficiently.

The 12 volt "ballast" is more than a ballast. Each one is also an
inverter. 12 volts is first converted to 100+ volts and then fed to
the tube while simulating the effect of the coil as with a 110
ballast.

I replaced about half the ballasts in our 84FC with units supplied by
Stephen 5 years ago. The fixtures have worked fine since.

Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
wrote:
>
> Definitely 12 volt ballasts are different from 110 volt ballasts.
>
> The issue here, though, is two different types of
ballasts, "magnetic" vs electronic. I've never looked at my ballasts,
but given their age I expect they are magnetic (coil transformers
involved). That type is about 70% efficient, with the other 30% being
generated as heat.
>
> Electronic ballasts like Stephen sells are typically around 95%
efficient, with 5% lost as heat.
>
> I converted my retail store from magnetic to electronic a number of
years ago - lower heat, lower total power use, and no more dangerous
smoking ballasts!
>
> On 1/6/2009 at 2:04 AM timvasqz wrote:
>
> >Curious why folks use you for balast purchase. is it unique to a
> >12v light over the 110v fluorescent light of a typical home
> >appliance. My assumption is the Wanderlodge fluorescent light are
> >12v???? never had an issue or so I think they would not get
brighter
> >by replacing one. I did notice that DickH had brighter F lights at
> >Q'08. I also wondered if the balast control amperage would a
> >balast choice be used to balance the juice to control motor speed
or
> >light intensity inplace of a power hog rehostat?
> >
> >
> >Gregory ofTim&Greg
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> it makes your lights light
> >> or balances your ship
> >>
> >>
> >> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "timvasqz" > >wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Steve, what does a ballast do?
> >> > GregoryO'Connor ofTim&Greg
> >> > 94ptCa
> >> >
> >> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
> >> > wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > \the ballasts do not run hot
> >> > > Stephen
> >> > > dupreeproducts.com
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, GARY MINKER
> >
> >> > > wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Doublesided tape on a balast could be a fire hazard if the
> >balast
> >> > > runs hot. Tempting as it may be, I would use screws.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > --- On Mon, 1/5/09, Hugh Turner wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > From: Hugh Turner
> >> > > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: GFI Faults and interior
> >light
> >> > replacemts
> >> > > > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> >> > > > Date: Monday, January 5, 2009, 6:10 AM
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups.
> >com, "jcpryn"
> >> > > wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Hello,
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Helping a friend with his BB 84fc35' and out of the blue
he
> >> > started
> >> > > >
> >> > > > getting immediate ground faults. We shut off all of the
> >> > breakers and
> >> > > >
> >> > > > still getting the fault. plugged the cord in by it's
self
> >and
> >> > no
> >> > > >
> >> > > > faults, but as soon as it's plugged into the BB the GFI
> >trips.
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Any ideas?
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > > thanks
> >> > > >
> >> > > > John
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > > John
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Last year on a trip to MS 110vac worked fine on genset.
> >When I
> >> > got to
> >> > > >
> >> > > > campground as soon as I plugged into their 50 amp shore
> >power I
> >> > got a
> >> > > >
> >> > > > hot to neutral short did the simple things first. 1. Had
> >> > campground
> >> > > >
> >> > > > check their side 2. went through some of the checks you
did
> >3.
> >> > took
> >> > > >
> >> > > > out the connection box to check it ok 4. called plant for
> >help.
> >> > When I
> >> > > >
> >> > > > described the problem Jessie told me they had problems on
> >the PT
> >> > with
> >> > > >
> >> > > > water and other stuff getting on the contacts The had a
> >repair
> >> > the did
> >> > > >
> >> > > > to correct the problem told me he lets parts know I may
need
> >a
> >> > switch
> >> > > >
> >> > > > ($800 est). After aboout a 1/2 a day in MS in August I
> >finally of
> >> > > >
> >> > > > removing seat, carpeting and all the other stuff on top or
> >> > around the
> >> > > >
> >> > > > access plate was able to get the switch out. Once it was
out
> >the
> >> > > >
> >> > > > safetline module was the of the problem it had shorted. I
> >> > removed it
> >> > > >
> >> > > > have not had any problems since, just make sure you have a
> >way
> >> > > >
> >> > > > (checklist, bright color cord, remove before flight
streamer
> >> > etc) to
> >> > > >
> >> > > > remind you that you are on shore power before you pull out
> >> > taking the
> >> > > >
> >> > > > park power system with you. The red and yellow light are
not
> >the
> >> > ones
> >> > > >
> >> > > > I am talking about they get their input from the module I
am
> >> > talking
> >> > > >
> >> > > > about. I do not know where is located it the FC itthe one
> >you
> >> > rotate
> >> > > >
> >> > > > to select the input voltage good luck hope this works
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Hugh Turner
> >> > > >
> >> > > > 84 PT 40
> >> > > >
> >> > >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------
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