![]() |
Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel! - Printable Version +- Wanderlodge Gurus - The Member Funded Wanderlodge Forum (http://www.wanderlodgegurus.com) +-- Forum: Yahoo Groups Archive (/forumdisplay.php?fid=61) +--- Forum: WanderlodgeForum (/forumdisplay.php?fid=63) +--- Thread: Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel! (/showthread.php?tid=6835) Pages: 1 2 |
Xantrex RV 3012 M Inverter Installation, Reinventing the wheel! - bumpersbird - 06-10-2008 04:43 This got posted befor I finished. Remove the water tank between bay two & three and put in a KEGERATOR! Kurt Horvath 95 PT-42 10AC --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bumpersbird" > > Pete, > > My Inverters and Batterries are in the same place as yours, but with > the engine compartment being just inches away from the inverter/batt. > bay and the the tranny being under/to the side of the inverter box > the radiant heat warms everything up pretty good. Plus there is an > opening of about 8" X 24" between the two compartments. Which allows > the hot air to enter the inverter bay. So I have just gotten used to > the idea that they are one in the same. Not completly accurate from a > tech. point of veiw. > > I've been working towards getting the temps down in the engine > compartment since last Aug. Hot bedroon syndrome. I'm not trying to > cool the engine. Just everything that surrounds it. That's why I'm > putting in some fans to vent the engine compartment. it's been done > by several other guys and they seem to like the results. > > I have also considered exhaust blankets, some love them some hate > them. It's said that the pipes can rust prematurly. I don't know > about that but they seem like a good idea to me. > > I guess I'm just stuck on making my coach all that it can be. > > In the installation manual it goes into a great detail on > installation enviroment. > > This from the Xantrex web site. > > Installation > 2â2 975-0209-01-01 > Choosing a Location > Inverters are sophisticated electronic devices and should be treated > accordingly. > When selecting the operating environment for the inverter, don't > think of it in the > same terms as other equipment that works with it, such as batteries, > diesel > generators, motor generators, washing machines, and so on. It is a > highly complex > microprocessor-controlled device, similar in nature to stereo > equipment, > television sets, or computers. The use of conformal-coated circuit > boards, plated > copper bus bars, powder-coated metal components, and stainless steel > fasteners > improves tolerance to hostile environments. However, in a condensing > environment (one in which humidity and/or temperature change causes > water to > form on components) all the ingredients for electrolysis are present: > water, > electricity and metals. In a condensing environment the life > expectancy of the > inverter is indeterminate and the warranty is voided. > The inverter/charger should only be installed in a location that > meets the > following requirements: > CAUTION > Install the inverter in a dry, protected location away from sources > of high temperature and > moisture. Exposure to salt water is particularly destructive and > potentially hazardous. > Ventilated Do not operate the inverter/charger in a closed-in area or > restrict > ventilation in any way. The inverter/charger requires air circulation > to maintain optimum operating temperature and provide best > performance. If the unit has inadequate ventilation, it may shut down > due to overheating. > The air vented through the openings should also have a path to > circulate away from the inverter/charger. > Dry Do not allow water or other fluids to drip or splash on the > inverter. > Do not expose to rain, snow or water. > Cool Normal air temperature should be between 32 °F and 122 °F > (0 °C and 50 °C)âthe cooler the better within this range. > Clearance Allow as much space around the inverter/charger as possible. > Xantrex recommends that other objects and surfaces be at least > 3 inches (76 mm) away from the ventilation openings for best > performance. > Safe Locate the inverter/charger away from battery in a separate well > ventilated compartment. Do not install the inverter/charger in any > compartment containing flammable gases or liquids like gasoline. > Close to > battery > compartment > The length and size of your DC cables will affect performance. Use > the DC cables recommended in Table 2-2 on page 2â12. The unit > should not be installed in the battery compartment due to the > possible presence of explosive hydrogen gas from the batteries. > > Bla, Bla, Bla, Bla , > > You know the older I get the more I read the instructions. I should > have realized from reading the instructions that the DC cables can't > be 22' long. > > But no my two BB Gurus said it could be done. Well I > guess you could re-power a bird with a turbine, and chuck in an > afterburner for those steep hills, but it would plobably be tough on > your toad:} > > What I'm really looking forward to is the next off the wall upgrade. > F.L.I.R. Forward Looking Infrared. > > I think I will go with the PathFindIR unit small easy to install and > at a low price point about $3700.00 installed down in Houston > > FLIR Systems, Inc. > 70 Castilian Drive > Goleta, CA 93117 > Phone: 1-877-773-FLIR (3547) > http://www.corebyindigo.com > http://www.flir.com > > Gregg Conner once posted, " If it took a leaf blower to cool the > fridge I'd use it." I agree. What ever it takes to make it work, make > it better, make more fun. I'd really like to take that small water > tank between bay two > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson > wrote: > > > > Kurt, > > > > I'm puzzled -- you refer to the inverters as being in the engine > > compartment, but mine are in a metal box at the top of the house > > battery compartment, just in front of the engine compartment (curb > > side). (Two of the house batteries are nearby in the engine > > compartment, however.) The metal box has some vent holes in it > (but > > no fan) -- and it does gather some dirt, but it's moderately > > insulated from the engine itself, so it's not quite as hot as if > it > > were actually in the engine compartment proper. > > > > Are your inverters in a different location? (I note that each WL > > seems to have it's own unique features, even those of the same > year...) > > > > Pete Masterson > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 > > El Sobrante CA > > aeonix1@ > > > > > > > > On Jun 9, 2008, at 7:48 PM, bumpersbird wrote: > > > > > Gregg, > > > > > > Your probably right. > > > > > > I spoke with several people today, Xantrex support, Solar power > techs > > > etc. after I posted my little progress report. It seems as it does > > > not matter how heavy the cable is after a certain lenght the DC > side > > > decreases efficance for every foot past 7' and after about 12' it > may > > > not function at all. I've learned there are three enemies of an > > > invertrer: 1- Moisture,2- Heat,3- Dirt > > > > > > I have been told that it can be done but the majority opinion is > it's > > > better to keep the inverters as close to the batteries as > possible, > > > even if they run hot and are in a dirty enviroment. By the way > those > > > who think it's doable have not elaborated on how to do it. > > > > > > So I'm going to put the new units in the inverter box in the > engine > > > compartment. It will be a tight fit. Moisture is not really a > > > problem, perhaps condensation on the rare occasion. I will vent > it in > > > some fashion, probably a couple of 130 cfm computer fans. The fans > > > that I'm installing to cool the engine compartment should also > help a > > > lot. I'm mounting 2 - 1650 CFM radiator fans on the right side > grill. > > > The inverters are just a 10" or 12" away. I might place some sort > of > > > air filter on the door in an attemp to keep the box interior > somewhat > > > clean. <snip> > > > |