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+--- Thread: Exploded Batteries, please help and explain. (/showthread.php?tid=2235)
Exploded Batteries, please help and explain. - Adria Haynes - 03-21-2006 07:28
Guys,
(might wanna grab a coke. I tend to type alot.)
I lurk here alot but almost never post. I've owned my 1980 35FC BB
for almost 2 years now and am still learning about the ole girl. I
have a problem that I'm hoping you guys can help me with.
When I got her, the batteries that were in it wouldn't hold a charge
for too long since it had been stored for a couple years with the
fridge set to electric and killed them. I dealt with it for a
while, but decided that I needed to just get new ones.
I went to the Sam's club and talked to the battery guy about what I
needed and he sold me on getting (4) of the Exide "golf cart"
batteries. They worked great last summer. About a month after our
vacation when I went to go start her up, it was dead and I found
that "somebody" had left ONE little light on. I decided then that
I'd just leave it plugged into shore power through the winter and
leave the battery switch by the shifter set to OFF.
I went out about 5-6 weeks ago, flicked on the battery switch, and
she fired right up. I let her tun for about 30 minutes and all was
well. I went out Saturday to do the same, only when I hit the key,
the volts dropped to zero and it would barely even engage the
starter selenoid.
I checked the (4) NEW batteries for water and soon discovered (while
adding water) that all four batteries had split along the same
vertical seam.
I spoke to a different guy at the Sam's club about it yesterday and
he was a turd. He started telling me that you can't let 6V
batteries get that cold (we live in Flint, MI), that I should know
not to use a battery that says "golf cart" in a bus, and that I
needed to convert it over to run 2 deep cycle 12 volt batteries and
blah blah blah. He pretty much was in "cover our butt" mode and I
pretty much was having none of it - since I bought them on THEIR
recomendation. Needless to say, I forsee myself dealing with
somebody at the management level when I return these babies very
soon.
I didn't think there would be any problem with leaving it plugged in
since it was made for full timers who would do the same darn thing.
Has anybody else ever experienced this?
Can you explain what happened so that I can try not to repeat this
little stunt with GOOD batteries?
Got any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
John
Exploded Batteries, please help and explain. - orbitalsolutions - 03-21-2006 08:02
Sounds like they were over charged to the point of no return!! I
suspect that you do not have a battery problem but a charging
problem instead.
This is common for your model 'Bird.
Do you still have the original battery boilers, I mean chargers that
came from Blue Bird? If so than replace them with Iota smart
chargers and you will solve the problem.
There has been much written here about this subject ...good luck.
-James
78FC33SB
LasVegas NV
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
<mrbeebody@...> wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> (might wanna grab a coke. I tend to type alot.)
>
> I lurk here alot but almost never post. I've owned my 1980 35FC
BB
> for almost 2 years now and am still learning about the ole girl. I
> have a problem that I'm hoping you guys can help me with.
>
> When I got her, the batteries that were in it wouldn't hold a
charge
> for too long since it had been stored for a couple years with the
> fridge set to electric and killed them. I dealt with it for a
> while, but decided that I needed to just get new ones.
>
> I went to the Sam's club and talked to the battery guy about what
I
> needed and he sold me on getting (4) of the Exide "golf cart"
> batteries. They worked great last summer. About a month after
our
> vacation when I went to go start her up, it was dead and I found
> that "somebody" had left ONE little light on. I decided then that
> I'd just leave it plugged into shore power through the winter and
> leave the battery switch by the shifter set to OFF.
>
> I went out about 5-6 weeks ago, flicked on the battery switch, and
> she fired right up. I let her tun for about 30 minutes and all
was
> well. I went out Saturday to do the same, only when I hit the
key,
> the volts dropped to zero and it would barely even engage the
> starter selenoid.
>
> I checked the (4) NEW batteries for water and soon discovered
(while
> adding water) that all four batteries had split along the same
> vertical seam.
>
> I spoke to a different guy at the Sam's club about it yesterday
and
> he was a turd. He started telling me that you can't let 6V
> batteries get that cold (we live in Flint, MI), that I should know
> not to use a battery that says "golf cart" in a bus, and that I
> needed to convert it over to run 2 deep cycle 12 volt batteries
and
> blah blah blah. He pretty much was in "cover our butt" mode and I
> pretty much was having none of it - since I bought them on THEIR
> recomendation. Needless to say, I forsee myself dealing with
> somebody at the management level when I return these babies very
> soon.
>
> I didn't think there would be any problem with leaving it plugged
in
> since it was made for full timers who would do the same darn thing.
>
> Has anybody else ever experienced this?
>
> Can you explain what happened so that I can try not to repeat this
> little stunt with GOOD batteries?
>
> Got any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> John
>
Exploded Batteries, please help and explain. - Adria Haynes - 03-21-2006 08:13
As far as I know, the inverter/charger/boiler is the original.
Shouldn't there be something that stops the system from charging up
batteries that don't need charging?
Aside from buying a new charger (how much are they?) should I just
unhook the battery cables when I'm not using the bus?
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "orbitalsolutions"
>
> Sounds like they were over charged to the point of no return!! I
> suspect that you do not have a battery problem but a charging
> problem instead.
>
> This is common for your model 'Bird.
>
>
> Do you still have the original battery boilers, I mean chargers
that
> came from Blue Bird? If so than replace them with Iota smart
> chargers and you will solve the problem.
>
> There has been much written here about this subject ...good luck.
>
>
> -James
> 78FC33SB
> LasVegas NV
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
> <mrbeebody@> wrote:
> >
> > Guys,
> >
> > (might wanna grab a coke. I tend to type alot.)
> >
> > I lurk here alot but almost never post. I've owned my 1980 35FC
> BB
> > for almost 2 years now and am still learning about the ole girl.
I
> > have a problem that I'm hoping you guys can help me with.
> >
> > When I got her, the batteries that were in it wouldn't hold a
> charge
> > for too long since it had been stored for a couple years with
the
> > fridge set to electric and killed them. I dealt with it for a
> > while, but decided that I needed to just get new ones.
> >
> > I went to the Sam's club and talked to the battery guy about
what
> I
> > needed and he sold me on getting (4) of the Exide "golf cart"
> > batteries. They worked great last summer. About a month after
> our
> > vacation when I went to go start her up, it was dead and I found
> > that "somebody" had left ONE little light on. I decided then
that
> > I'd just leave it plugged into shore power through the winter
and
> > leave the battery switch by the shifter set to OFF.
> >
> > I went out about 5-6 weeks ago, flicked on the battery switch,
and
> > she fired right up. I let her tun for about 30 minutes and all
> was
> > well. I went out Saturday to do the same, only when I hit the
> key,
> > the volts dropped to zero and it would barely even engage the
> > starter selenoid.
> >
> > I checked the (4) NEW batteries for water and soon discovered
> (while
> > adding water) that all four batteries had split along the same
> > vertical seam.
> >
> > I spoke to a different guy at the Sam's club about it yesterday
> and
> > he was a turd. He started telling me that you can't let 6V
> > batteries get that cold (we live in Flint, MI), that I should
know
> > not to use a battery that says "golf cart" in a bus, and that I
> > needed to convert it over to run 2 deep cycle 12 volt batteries
> and
> > blah blah blah. He pretty much was in "cover our butt" mode and
I
> > pretty much was having none of it - since I bought them on THEIR
> > recomendation. Needless to say, I forsee myself dealing with
> > somebody at the management level when I return these babies very
> > soon.
> >
> > I didn't think there would be any problem with leaving it
plugged
> in
> > since it was made for full timers who would do the same darn
thing.
> >
> > Has anybody else ever experienced this?
> >
> > Can you explain what happened so that I can try not to repeat
this
> > little stunt with GOOD batteries?
> >
> > Got any other suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> > John
> >
>
Exploded Batteries, please help and explain. - sfedeli3 - 03-21-2006 08:24
Hi John,
Try putting some 6V batteries in series. I have six (three pairs,
each in series) from Sam's. They work great. When in dry storage
however, you must leave them either disconnected or on a timer so
that they do not overcharge and only get charged 2 hours a day. I
have the original chargers too and they work fine as long as you do
not let them on continuously. Once the batteries are fully charged,
disconnect them at the battery tray (install a switch). The switch
under the dash does not disconnect the batteries.
Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
<mrbeebody@...> wrote:
>
> As far as I know, the inverter/charger/boiler is the original.
>
> Shouldn't there be something that stops the system from charging up
> batteries that don't need charging?
>
> Aside from buying a new charger (how much are they?) should I just
> unhook the battery cables when I'm not using the bus?
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "orbitalsolutions"
>
> >
> > Sounds like they were over charged to the point of no return!! I
> > suspect that you do not have a battery problem but a charging
> > problem instead.
> >
> > This is common for your model 'Bird.
> >
> >
> > Do you still have the original battery boilers, I mean chargers
> that
> > came from Blue Bird? If so than replace them with Iota smart
> > chargers and you will solve the problem.
> >
> > There has been much written here about this subject ...good luck.
> >
> >
> > -James
> > 78FC33SB
> > LasVegas NV
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
> > <mrbeebody@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Guys,
> > >
> > > (might wanna grab a coke. I tend to type alot.)
> > >
> > > I lurk here alot but almost never post. I've owned my 1980
35FC
> > BB
> > > for almost 2 years now and am still learning about the ole
girl.
> I
> > > have a problem that I'm hoping you guys can help me with.
> > >
> > > When I got her, the batteries that were in it wouldn't hold a
> > charge
> > > for too long since it had been stored for a couple years with
> the
> > > fridge set to electric and killed them. I dealt with it for a
> > > while, but decided that I needed to just get new ones.
> > >
> > > I went to the Sam's club and talked to the battery guy about
> what
> > I
> > > needed and he sold me on getting (4) of the Exide "golf cart"
> > > batteries. They worked great last summer. About a month after
> > our
> > > vacation when I went to go start her up, it was dead and I
found
> > > that "somebody" had left ONE little light on. I decided then
> that
> > > I'd just leave it plugged into shore power through the winter
> and
> > > leave the battery switch by the shifter set to OFF.
> > >
> > > I went out about 5-6 weeks ago, flicked on the battery switch,
> and
> > > she fired right up. I let her tun for about 30 minutes and all
> > was
> > > well. I went out Saturday to do the same, only when I hit the
> > key,
> > > the volts dropped to zero and it would barely even engage the
> > > starter selenoid.
> > >
> > > I checked the (4) NEW batteries for water and soon discovered
> > (while
> > > adding water) that all four batteries had split along the same
> > > vertical seam.
> > >
> > > I spoke to a different guy at the Sam's club about it yesterday
> > and
> > > he was a turd. He started telling me that you can't let 6V
> > > batteries get that cold (we live in Flint, MI), that I should
> know
> > > not to use a battery that says "golf cart" in a bus, and that I
> > > needed to convert it over to run 2 deep cycle 12 volt batteries
> > and
> > > blah blah blah. He pretty much was in "cover our butt" mode
and
> I
> > > pretty much was having none of it - since I bought them on
THEIR
> > > recomendation. Needless to say, I forsee myself dealing with
> > > somebody at the management level when I return these babies
very
> > > soon.
> > >
> > > I didn't think there would be any problem with leaving it
> plugged
> > in
> > > since it was made for full timers who would do the same darn
> thing.
> > >
> > > Has anybody else ever experienced this?
> > >
> > > Can you explain what happened so that I can try not to repeat
> this
> > > little stunt with GOOD batteries?
> > >
> > > Got any other suggestions?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance.
> > > John
> > >
> >
>
Exploded Batteries, please help and explain. - orbitalsolutions - 03-21-2006 08:35
Adria, you asked, "Shouldn't there be something that stops the
system from charging batteries that don't need charging?" The
answer to your question is yes there should be, however there isn't.
You do not have to go through the hassel of disconnedcting and
reconnecting the cables all the time.
If you are going to keep the original chargers, that will charge at
only a very high voltage when ever they are on, regardless of the
state of charge of your batteries, then just unplug one of them and
put a timer in line with the other, only allowing it to charge for 2
to 3 hours a day. Many owners do this.
Newer technology allows chargers to sense the charge level of your
bank and then charge accordingly with out over charging the bank,
they can be left on all the time. These are called smart chargers
as they contain a microprocessor that allows them to operate
constanlty.
I just bought (2) Iota smart chargers from a distributor called
Master Techs, you can get their number from the Iota Web Page. They
cost a little over $300 for both of them and are state of the art
charger/converters.
Charging technology has come a long way since the time they built
our 'Birds.
If you have any more questions please ask.
-James
78FC33SB
LasVegas NV (cool, breezy, and some strange looking water drops
falling from the sky that are very seldom seen in these parts.)
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
<mrbeebody@...> wrote:
>
> As far as I know, the inverter/charger/boiler is the original.
>
> Shouldn't there be something that stops the system from charging
up
> batteries that don't need charging?
>
> Aside from buying a new charger (how much are they?) should I just
> unhook the battery cables when I'm not using the bus?
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "orbitalsolutions"
>
> >
> > Sounds like they were over charged to the point of no return!!
I
> > suspect that you do not have a battery problem but a charging
> > problem instead.
> >
> > This is common for your model 'Bird.
> >
> >
> > Do you still have the original battery boilers, I mean chargers
> that
> > came from Blue Bird? If so than replace them with Iota smart
> > chargers and you will solve the problem.
> >
> > There has been much written here about this subject ...good luck.
> >
> >
> > -James
> > 78FC33SB
> > LasVegas NV
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
> > <mrbeebody@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Guys,
> > >
> > > (might wanna grab a coke. I tend to type alot.)
> > >
> > > I lurk here alot but almost never post. I've owned my 1980
35FC
> > BB
> > > for almost 2 years now and am still learning about the ole
girl.
> I
> > > have a problem that I'm hoping you guys can help me with.
> > >
> > > When I got her, the batteries that were in it wouldn't hold a
> > charge
> > > for too long since it had been stored for a couple years with
> the
> > > fridge set to electric and killed them. I dealt with it for a
> > > while, but decided that I needed to just get new ones.
> > >
> > > I went to the Sam's club and talked to the battery guy about
> what
> > I
> > > needed and he sold me on getting (4) of the Exide "golf cart"
> > > batteries. They worked great last summer. About a month
after
> > our
> > > vacation when I went to go start her up, it was dead and I
found
> > > that "somebody" had left ONE little light on. I decided then
> that
> > > I'd just leave it plugged into shore power through the winter
> and
> > > leave the battery switch by the shifter set to OFF.
> > >
> > > I went out about 5-6 weeks ago, flicked on the battery switch,
> and
> > > she fired right up. I let her tun for about 30 minutes and
all
> > was
> > > well. I went out Saturday to do the same, only when I hit the
> > key,
> > > the volts dropped to zero and it would barely even engage the
> > > starter selenoid.
> > >
> > > I checked the (4) NEW batteries for water and soon discovered
> > (while
> > > adding water) that all four batteries had split along the same
> > > vertical seam.
> > >
> > > I spoke to a different guy at the Sam's club about it
yesterday
> > and
> > > he was a turd. He started telling me that you can't let 6V
> > > batteries get that cold (we live in Flint, MI), that I should
> know
> > > not to use a battery that says "golf cart" in a bus, and that
I
> > > needed to convert it over to run 2 deep cycle 12 volt
batteries
> > and
> > > blah blah blah. He pretty much was in "cover our butt" mode
and
> I
> > > pretty much was having none of it - since I bought them on
THEIR
> > > recomendation. Needless to say, I forsee myself dealing with
> > > somebody at the management level when I return these babies
very
> > > soon.
> > >
> > > I didn't think there would be any problem with leaving it
> plugged
> > in
> > > since it was made for full timers who would do the same darn
> thing.
> > >
> > > Has anybody else ever experienced this?
> > >
> > > Can you explain what happened so that I can try not to repeat
> this
> > > little stunt with GOOD batteries?
> > >
> > > Got any other suggestions?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance.
> > > John
> > >
> >
>
Exploded Batteries, please help and explain. - Adria Haynes - 03-21-2006 09:22
Thanks guys for all the immediate and incredible feedback. It
sounds like I'm going to just get new batteries and where the
charger plugs into the bus - seperate the two with a timer that only
lets them charge for a little bit every day.
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "orbitalsolutions"
>
> Adria, you asked, "Shouldn't there be something that stops the
> system from charging batteries that don't need charging?" The
> answer to your question is yes there should be, however there
isn't.
>
> You do not have to go through the hassel of disconnedcting and
> reconnecting the cables all the time.
>
> If you are going to keep the original chargers, that will charge
at
> only a very high voltage when ever they are on, regardless of the
> state of charge of your batteries, then just unplug one of them
and
> put a timer in line with the other, only allowing it to charge for
2
> to 3 hours a day. Many owners do this.
>
> Newer technology allows chargers to sense the charge level of your
> bank and then charge accordingly with out over charging the bank,
> they can be left on all the time. These are called smart chargers
> as they contain a microprocessor that allows them to operate
> constanlty.
>
> I just bought (2) Iota smart chargers from a distributor called
> Master Techs, you can get their number from the Iota Web Page.
They
> cost a little over $300 for both of them and are state of the art
> charger/converters.
>
> Charging technology has come a long way since the time they built
> our 'Birds.
>
> If you have any more questions please ask.
>
>
> -James
> 78FC33SB
> LasVegas NV (cool, breezy, and some strange looking water drops
> falling from the sky that are very seldom seen in these parts.)
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
> <mrbeebody@> wrote:
> >
> > As far as I know, the inverter/charger/boiler is the original.
> >
> > Shouldn't there be something that stops the system from charging
> up
> > batteries that don't need charging?
> >
> > Aside from buying a new charger (how much are they?) should I
just
> > unhook the battery cables when I'm not using the bus?
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "orbitalsolutions"
> >
> > >
> > > Sounds like they were over charged to the point of no
return!!
> I
> > > suspect that you do not have a battery problem but a charging
> > > problem instead.
> > >
> > > This is common for your model 'Bird.
> > >
> > >
> > > Do you still have the original battery boilers, I mean
chargers
> > that
> > > came from Blue Bird? If so than replace them with Iota smart
> > > chargers and you will solve the problem.
> > >
> > > There has been much written here about this subject ...good
luck.
> > >
> > >
> > > -James
> > > 78FC33SB
> > > LasVegas NV
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
> > > <mrbeebody@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Guys,
> > > >
> > > > (might wanna grab a coke. I tend to type alot.)
> > > >
> > > > I lurk here alot but almost never post. I've owned my 1980
> 35FC
> > > BB
> > > > for almost 2 years now and am still learning about the ole
> girl.
> > I
> > > > have a problem that I'm hoping you guys can help me with.
> > > >
> > > > When I got her, the batteries that were in it wouldn't hold
a
> > > charge
> > > > for too long since it had been stored for a couple years
with
> > the
> > > > fridge set to electric and killed them. I dealt with it for
a
> > > > while, but decided that I needed to just get new ones.
> > > >
> > > > I went to the Sam's club and talked to the battery guy about
> > what
> > > I
> > > > needed and he sold me on getting (4) of the Exide "golf
cart"
> > > > batteries. They worked great last summer. About a month
> after
> > > our
> > > > vacation when I went to go start her up, it was dead and I
> found
> > > > that "somebody" had left ONE little light on. I decided
then
> > that
> > > > I'd just leave it plugged into shore power through the
winter
> > and
> > > > leave the battery switch by the shifter set to OFF.
> > > >
> > > > I went out about 5-6 weeks ago, flicked on the battery
switch,
> > and
> > > > she fired right up. I let her tun for about 30 minutes and
> all
> > > was
> > > > well. I went out Saturday to do the same, only when I hit
the
> > > key,
> > > > the volts dropped to zero and it would barely even engage
the
> > > > starter selenoid.
> > > >
> > > > I checked the (4) NEW batteries for water and soon
discovered
> > > (while
> > > > adding water) that all four batteries had split along the
same
> > > > vertical seam.
> > > >
> > > > I spoke to a different guy at the Sam's club about it
> yesterday
> > > and
> > > > he was a turd. He started telling me that you can't let 6V
> > > > batteries get that cold (we live in Flint, MI), that I
should
> > know
> > > > not to use a battery that says "golf cart" in a bus, and
that
> I
> > > > needed to convert it over to run 2 deep cycle 12 volt
> batteries
> > > and
> > > > blah blah blah. He pretty much was in "cover our butt" mode
> and
> > I
> > > > pretty much was having none of it - since I bought them on
> THEIR
> > > > recomendation. Needless to say, I forsee myself dealing
with
> > > > somebody at the management level when I return these babies
> very
> > > > soon.
> > > >
> > > > I didn't think there would be any problem with leaving it
> > plugged
> > > in
> > > > since it was made for full timers who would do the same darn
> > thing.
> > > >
> > > > Has anybody else ever experienced this?
> > > >
> > > > Can you explain what happened so that I can try not to
repeat
> > this
> > > > little stunt with GOOD batteries?
> > > >
> > > > Got any other suggestions?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance.
> > > > John
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Exploded Batteries, please help and explain. - John Suter - 03-21-2006 09:42
Hi Adria,
Sorry you are having so much trouble.
First, what likely happened. Typically, the
lead-acid type batteries you are using for starting
and possibly for the coach, will indicate 12.65V when
fully charged and at rest. "Fully charged" batteries
will contain a maximum amount of sulphuric acid
(H2SO4) which has a freezing point well below 32
degrees farenheit. As the batteries discharge (a
discharged battery will indicate 12V or less) the
electro-chemical reaction tends to change the liquid
composition toward H2O (water) which we know has a
freezing point close to 32 degrees farenheit. If
lead-acid batteries are overcharged (often called
boiled) the liquid evaporates, at which time water is
added back to a level to cover the lead plates, and
the batteries recharged to convert the water back to
acid. In either case it would appear the batteries
reached a temperature below that required to freeze
the remaining liquid to the point of cracking the
cases.
--- Adria Haynes <mrbeebody@...> wrote:
> I
> decided then that
> I'd just leave it plugged into shore power through
> the winter and
> leave the battery switch by the shifter set to OFF.
Can't say for sure about your model, but typically,
the battery charger only charges the coach batteries
and not the engine batteries unless the battery switch
(boost switch) is set to on, then, if left on for
prolonged periods of days/weeks, the engine lead-acid
batteries become "boiled."
> I went out about 5-6 weeks ago, flicked on the
> battery switch, and
> she fired right up.
When you did that, you electrically "combined" all
batteries (coach and engine) and, as the coach
batteries had been charging all along, they in effect
provided the power to start your coach. Note: in all
likelyhood, your engine batteries were already
dead/damaged.
> I let her tun for about 30
> minutes and all was
> well.
The engine alternator provided a charge for both the
engine and coach batteries, but 30 minutes was
probably not sufficient to charge the engine
batteries. You did not say whether or not when you
shut off the engine, you also disabled the battery
switch. If so, the engine batteries returned to their
uncharged state. If not, the engine batteries likely
were so discharged, or damaged from prolonged
discharge, that they "tricked" the charger into
providing maximum charge amperage until all remaining
batteries became boiled and damaged.
This situation/causation is why the recommendation
is to replace all batteries at once. An attempt to
charge damaged batteries along with good batteries
will likely damage them all.
> I spoke to a different guy at the Sam's club
> and He started telling me that you can't
> let 6V
> batteries get that cold
Unfortunately, he should have suggested that
batteries should be fully charged to survive cold
weather.
>
> I didn't think there would be any problem with
> leaving it plugged in
> since it was made for full timers who would do the
> same darn thing.
I trust the above explanation will clarify that
leaving it "plugged in" still requires that a close
eye be kept to prevent overcharging and "boiling" and
the acid/water level must be kept above the top of the
lead plates at all times.
> Has anybody else ever experienced this?
Most of us have also learned the hard way,
unfortunately.
John Suter
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Exploded Batteries, please help and explain. - John Suter - 03-22-2006 01:03
> Over charge batterys! I have the old battery
> charger on my 78
> Wanderlodge and never have had a problem with it. I
> just go out and
> check to see if there is enough water in the
> batterys. I leave my
> coach shore power on all the time and I have never
> had a problem with
> the batterys. Why don't I have this problem of over
> charging?
Sorry,
I was trying to wind up the long concept and used
the term "overcharged" inappropriately. Given the
posed scenario, I attempted to explain, when the
charger detects the "need" for a considerable amount
of electrical charge (a dead battery or cell, for
example) the charger applies maximum amperage to the
entire bank (or banks, if the "boost" or "battery
switch" is "on") and that is akin to a pot of water on
the stove with the burner turned up to max heat - i.e.
the battery water/acid begins to literally "boil" and
the H2O component of the liquid evaporates, the
battery becomes hot to the touch, and as the liquid
level drops below the top of the closely aligned lead
plates, they begin to warp and touch one another, and
so on until permanent damage occurs. A vicious cycle!
An undamaged battery, properly charged, can
withstand ambient temperatures well down to zero
Fahrenheit for a considerable period of time. A
severely damaged battery (or cell) within a bank can
electrically drain the others, and at temps below
freezing, can result in multiple cracked cases.
John Suter
>
> Jon
> 78 wanderlodge
> Bremerton Washington
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