Hydraulic filter gasket or O ring.

[artw]

Got back from the Monterey Rolex Autosports Reunion ( formerly called
the Historical Auto Races) at 2:30 this morning. The one problem I had
was a leaking hydrailic filter. I changed that filter last November.
Does anyone have the numbet of the seal for the canister? I went back
into the archives and found some discussion a year ago but no definate
numbers. I changed all the hydraulic filters because the filter monitor
light was red. It's still rad.

I was able to charge my batteries with the generator. Shane, perhaps
you're right - bad trafer switch. The other day it wouldn't charge.
I just thought I'd try it again and was able to charge all week.

Art Weatherly
Riverside Ca
'85 PT36

[sfedeli3]

Hi Art,

I'll assume you are speaking about the long, tall canister that hangs right
behind the fan motor assembly. The canister system on the hydraulic fan is a
Parker 30P High Pressure Filter assembly. The Parker Nitrile O-ring part number
is N92151. There is also a Fluoroelastomer O-ring that is the same size with a V
prefix instead of an N. When I got the new o-ring from Parker, I took it down to
the Caterpillar hose shop in Harrisburg and they were able to match it up with
an O-ring that they stock for Cat equipment. The part number is 119-7844 and is
printed on the o-ring. The package has number 1 1197844 1008477. So far, this
was the least expensive source too. they ran $2.10 apiece. Also- here are
several cross references for the high pressure filter- Baldwin #PT8498;
Fleetguard #HF7795; Wix #57125; Parker #925835 and Donaldson #P170073. The
stacked filters in the oil sump are also easy to find. I used Wix #57317.

-Shane

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "artw" wrote:
>
> Got back from the Monterey Rolex Autosports Reunion ( formerly called
> the Historical Auto Races) at 2:30 this morning. The one problem I had
> was a leaking hydrailic filter. I changed that filter last November.
> Does anyone have the numbet of the seal for the canister? I went back
> into the archives and found some discussion a year ago but no definate
> numbers. I changed all the hydraulic filters because the filter monitor
> light was red. It's still rad.
>
> I was able to charge my batteries with the generator. Shane, perhaps
> you're right - bad trafer switch. The other day it wouldn't charge.
> I just thought I'd try it again and was able to charge all week.
>
> Art Weatherly
> Riverside Ca
> '85 PT36
>

[Michael Bulriss]

Art, You got some great info from Shane. But I note your comment: > I changed all the hydraulic filters because the filter monitor > light was red. It's still rad. If you are talking about the racor filter monitor, usually on the overhead dash panel, that is for the racor fuel filter. So yes, changing a hydraulic filter has no effect. You need to change the racor fuel filter to have that gauge move back out out the red. The racor fuel filter on a PT should be in the cannister near/above the batteries on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Mike Bulriss 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan" San Antonio, TX --- On Tue, 8/17/10, sfedeli3 <sfedeli3@...> wrote: From: sfedeli3 <sfedeli3@...> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Hydraulic filter gasket or O ring. To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, August 17, 2010, 5:36 AM Hi Art, I'll assume you are speaking about the long, tall canister that hangs right behind the fan motor assembly. The canister system on the hydraulic fan is a Parker 30P High Pressure Filter assembly. The Parker Nitrile O-ring part number is N92151. There is also a Fluoroelastomer O-ring that is the same size with a V prefix instead of an N. When I got the new o-ring from Parker, I took it down to the Caterpillar hose shop in Harrisburg and they were able to match it up with an O-ring that they stock for Cat equipment. The part number is 119-7844 and is printed on the o-ring. The package has number 1 1197844 1008477. So far, this was the least expensive source too. they ran $2.10 apiece. Also- here are several cross references for the high pressure filter- Baldwin #PT8498; Fleetguard #HF7795; Wix #57125; Parker #925835 and Donaldson #P170073. The stacked filters in the oil sump are also easy to find. I used Wix #57317. -Shane --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "artw" wrote: > > Got back from the Monterey Rolex Autosports Reunion ( formerly called > the Historical Auto Races) at 2:30 this morning. The one problem I had > was a leaking hydrailic filter. I changed that filter last November. > Does anyone have the numbet of the seal for the canister? I went back > into the archives and found some discussion a year ago but no definate > numbers. I changed all the hydraulic filters because the filter monitor > light was red. It's still rad. > > I was able to charge my batteries with the generator. Shane, perhaps > you're right - bad trafer switch. The other day it wouldn't charge. > I just thought I'd try it again and was able to charge all week. > > Art Weatherly > Riverside Ca > '85 PT36 >

[artw]

The light I was referring to was a filter monitor mounted where the
suspention dump switches are.

Shane, thanks for the info.

Art Weatherly
Riverside Ca
'85 PT36

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Michael Bulriss <mbulriss@...> wrote:
>
> Art,
>
> You got some great info from Shane. But I note your comment:
>
> > I changed all the hydraulic filters because the filter monitor
>
> > light was red. It's still rad.
>
> If you are talking about the racor filter monitor, usually on the overhead
dash panel, that is for the racor fuel filter. So yes, changing a hydraulic
filter has no effect. You need to change the racor fuel filter to have that
gauge move back out out the red. The racor fuel filter on a PT should be in
the cannister near/above the batteries on the passenger side of the engine
compartment.
>
> Mike Bulriss
>

[artw]

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@...> wrote:
Shane,

Which of those seals did you use. Also, the canister takes a 1 1/8 socket to
tighten it. I would assume that means very tight. I did tighten it about one
more turn while at Monterey. That slowed the leaking down
from two Qts. every 100 miles to one Qt. It took almost an hour to get the rear
of the coach clean. Shoud the seal be lubricated with something
before installing? I don't remember doing that when I changed that filter.

Art Weatherly
Riverside Ca
'85 PT36
>

[Rob Robinson]

I'll be corrected here if I'm wrong Art but all seals need some lube. A few days ago I had a coolant filter installed and the tech lubed it.

On 17 August 2010 11:02, artw <"amweatherly@att.net"> wrote:

 

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@...> wrote:

Shane,



Which of those seals did you use. Also, the canister takes a 1 1/8 socket to

tighten it. I would assume that means very tight. I did tighten it about one more turn while at Monterey. That slowed the leaking down

from two Qts. every 100 miles to one Qt. It took almost an hour to get the rear of the coach clean. Shoud the seal be lubricated with something

before installing? I don't remember doing that when I changed that filter.

Art Weatherly

Riverside Ca

'85 PT36

>

--
Rob, Sue and Joey Robinson

[sfedeli3]

Hi Art, I used the one from Parker and later the one from Cat (part #119-7844)
when I re-serviced the system. The o-ring fits into a small groove on the top of
the filter canister. I lubed it with a bit of 10W30 motor oil (same as what is
in the large filter tank) and then hand tightened the canister onto the filter
head. Since the canister had fine, machine threads, it was really challenging to
get the threads lined up with the canister full of oil. You also had to be
careful not to knock the filter element off the nipple where it hangs from the
filter head. The second time that I did it, I installed the filter element on
the head, filled the canister only about 1/2 full of oil and that really kept me
from making a mess. If you don't insert the filter onto the head first, it will
usually not line up with the nipple when it's in the canister. It's an awkward
place to work and hard to apply much force up on the canister while laying on
your back. Once it is hand-tight, you can only turn it about 1/2 a rotation
before it is fully seated. The canister is made of aluminum, so be very careful
not to cross-thread it.

Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "artw" wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@> wrote:
> Shane,
>
> Which of those seals did you use. Also, the canister takes a 1 1/8 socket to
> tighten it. I would assume that means very tight. I did tighten it about one
more turn while at Monterey. That slowed the leaking down
> from two Qts. every 100 miles to one Qt. It took almost an hour to get the
rear of the coach clean. Shoud the seal be lubricated with something
> before installing? I don't remember doing that when I changed that filter.
>
> Art Weatherly
> Riverside Ca
> '85 PT36
> >
>

[csprenger]

Oil on parking pad. Fresh oil visible at the top of the Hyd. high pressure filter canister. Found the canister needed 1//3 to 1/2 turn to take up the slack.