Coach Door Build

[ronmarabito2002]

Anyone out there know how the skin of the door on a 92WB40 is attached to the
frame? Mine is separating. I can't tell if it was spot welded or attached
with an adhesive.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40

[Fred Hulse]

Hi Ron

On my SP36 the skin was tack welded to the frame and was separating in a couple areas. I used some JB weld and clamped the areas for drying time and it turned out good.

Fred & Jeanne Hulse

[George F. VerDuin]

Close but maybe "no cigar" Ron:





On 03/21/2013 04:03 PM, ronmarabito2002 wrote:

Anyone out there know how the skin of the door on a
92WB40 is attached to the frame? Mine is separating. I
can't tell if it was spot welded or attached with an
adhesive.

BMC37 1995 -- spot welded and not well enough to survive thru 2012.

Vibration got it I guess... Half dozen broken spots, ugly screw
patch until a good repair shows up.



Cheers

Geo

[ronmarabito2002]

Thanks Fred: I had been thinking of of using a common construction adhesive,
but JB Weld is probably more appropriate.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hulse" wrote:
>
> Hi Ron
> On my SP36 the skin was tack welded to the frame and was separating in a
couple areas. I used some JB weld and clamped the areas for drying time and it
turned out good.
>
> Fred & Jeanne Hulse
>

[Rob Robinson]

Years ago Bluebirds fix for the broken welds was to use polyurethane. I did this for my 94 and it worked great. My welds broke because the door rubber was too robust and to completely close the door you had to really slam it. My 99 has the same robust rubber seal so I never close it tight untill I am about to hit the road. If the welds break on this one I will use the same polyurethane, clamp over night and all will be well. While the poly secures very well it also has a certain amount of flexibility. I would think anything rigid might just break again

On 21 March 2013 18:34, ronmarabito2002 <"remarabito@gmail.com"> wrote:

 

Thanks Fred: I had been thinking of of using a common construction adhesive, but JB Weld is probably more appropriate.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Fred Hulse" wrote:

>

> Hi Ron

> On my SP36 the skin was tack welded to the frame and was separating in a couple areas. I used some JB weld and clamped the areas for drying time and it turned out good.

>

> Fred & Jeanne Hulse

>

--
Rob, Sue and Joey Robinson

[david brady]

Polyurethane to glue body panels on is
pretty standard in today's vehicle manufacturing. Lots of
production cars have glued on door skin. Go to a Automotive body
repair shop and ask for their recommended adhesive.



David Brady

'02 Wanderlodge LXi



On 3/21/2013 9:50 PM, Rob Robinson wrote:

 

Years ago Bluebirds fix for the broken welds was to use
polyurethane. I did this for my 94 and it worked great. My
welds broke because the door rubber was too robust and to
completely close the door you had to really slam it. My 99
has the same robust rubber seal so I never close it tight
untill I am about to hit the road. If the welds break on
this one I will use the same polyurethane, clamp over
night and all will be well. While the poly secures very
well it also has a certain amount of flexibility. I would
think anything rigid might just break again

On 21 March 2013 18:34,
ronmarabito2002 <"remarabito@gmail.com">
wrote:

 

Thanks Fred: I had been thinking of of using
a common construction adhesive, but JB Weld is
probably more appropriate.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com",
"Fred Hulse" "fhulse@..." wrote:

>

> Hi Ron

> On my SP36 the skin was tack welded to
the frame and was separating in a couple
areas. I used some JB weld and clamped the
areas for drying time and it turned out good.

>

> Fred & Jeanne Hulse

>

--

Rob, Sue and Joey Robinson