New Water Pumps

[Kurt Horvath]

After a close look at the original plumbing in the bay with the water
pumps, I have decided to remove most of the pipes and keep only the
basics.

As per the installation instructions it recommends that there be no
restrictive elbows, shut off or check valves, use as few elbows and
valves as possible in the first 2 feet after the pump.

Using the ½ I.D. flexible high pressure tubing, cut at 2 ½ feet for
each side of the pump will eliminate 4 elbows on each pump, ( my
coach has 2 pumps, you can run pump #1 or #2, or #1  together ).
It also has 4 T valves in the system. I am still trying to decide
their valor in the greater scheme of things.

If anyone has any thoughts on why they have these cut off valves on
each side of the pumps I would like to hear about it. I guess they
are to shut off water to service the pumps or in case of a leak, I
just do not see if you would even use them that much.

So that will cut out 6 restrictive devices off each pump, all of
which are within 12" of the pumps. The exit side of the pumps have 3
elbows within 3" of each other before they reach the accumulator
tank.. Speaking of that, the out side of the tank has a couple of 2
or 3 unnecessary elbows to boot!

If you gently heat any plastic tubing you can make it bend into any
shape needed. So that would remove 3 elbows on the out side of the
accumulator tank, very easy to do, but will it help? It couldn't hurt.

The cold water dump valve also has enough hardware to open a pluming
supply. I will redo that with a little upgrade,

After he BBQ/Toolbox Bay upgrade, it would be nice if the coach had
flowing water on the curb side, near the outdoor kitchen. Nothing
fancy just a practical cold water hose with some kind of head at the
end. It will serve 2 uses as a curb side water source and replace the
cold water dump valve.

The installation manual also mentions mounting the pumps in a easily
accessible location, well the space allotted , is, what it, is. I'll
mount the pumps on a 20" X12" piece of good plywood, then bolt that
to the outside of the plywood framing that surrounds the toolbox and
BBQ shelf.

So with that and the Hydraulic fluid flush and the new 3000psi switch
I have to put on the HWH levelers and now you guys got me thinking
about Coolant filters! All I can say I'm happy Fuel prices are going
down @ Flying J. Not much but $3.99 is better than the $4.69 I paid
last trip.

Kurt Horvath
95 PT-42 WLWB S-60
10AC

[Gregory OConnor]

the cut in a pipe or the end of a internal fitting cause more
friction than a 90 degree elbow. if water takes a path that doesnt
cross a fitting, that fitting causes no friction loss. If you want
a project make a manual accessable sporlan tank fill bypass. I agree
with you that there is little need for extra valves that may fail.
CCW-BB even includes a row of plumbing valves with logo handles in
their 15 photo 2009 brochure. I guess rich folks like lots of
valves??? But.......... if the backflow device in one pump fails, it
will make the other pump run continiously. the good pump will send
the water thru the bad pump backwards and then resupply the
continiously running pump. the good pump can not build pressure
unless you cut off the circular path.

Greg
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath"
wrote:
>
>
>
> After a close look at the original plumbing in the bay with the
water
> pumps, I have decided to remove most of the pipes and keep only
the
> basics.
>
> As per the installation instructions it recommends that there be
no
> restrictive elbows, shut off or check valves, use as few elbows
and
> valves as possible in the first 2 feet after the pump.
>
> Using the ½ I.D. flexible high pressure tubing, cut at 2 ½ feet
for
> each side of the pump will eliminate 4 elbows on each pump, ( my
> coach has 2 pumps, you can run pump #1 or #2, or #1 
together ).
> It also has 4 T valves in the system. I am still trying to decide
> their valor in the greater scheme of things.
>
> If anyone has any thoughts on why they have these cut off valves
on
> each side of the pumps I would like to hear about it. I guess they
> are to shut off water to service the pumps or in case of a leak, I
> just do not see if you would even use them that much.
>
> So that will cut out 6 restrictive devices off each pump, all of
> which are within 12" of the pumps. The exit side of the pumps have
3
> elbows within 3" of each other before they reach the accumulator
> tank.. Speaking of that, the out side of the tank has a couple of
2
> or 3 unnecessary elbows to boot!
>
> If you gently heat any plastic tubing you can make it bend into
any
> shape needed. So that would remove 3 elbows on the out side of the
> accumulator tank, very easy to do, but will it help? It couldn't
hurt.
>
> The cold water dump valve also has enough hardware to open a
pluming
> supply. I will redo that with a little upgrade,
>
> After he BBQ/Toolbox Bay upgrade, it would be nice if the coach
had
> flowing water on the curb side, near the outdoor kitchen. Nothing
> fancy just a practical cold water hose with some kind of head at
the
> end. It will serve 2 uses as a curb side water source and replace
the
> cold water dump valve.
>
> The installation manual also mentions mounting the pumps in a
easily
> accessible location, well the space allotted , is, what it, is.
I'll
> mount the pumps on a 20" X12" piece of good plywood, then bolt
that
> to the outside of the plywood framing that surrounds the toolbox
and
> BBQ shelf.
>
> So with that and the Hydraulic fluid flush and the new 3000psi
switch
> I have to put on the HWH levelers and now you guys got me thinking
> about Coolant filters! All I can say I'm happy Fuel prices are
going
> down @ Flying J. Not much but $3.99 is better than the $4.69 I
paid
> last trip.
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 PT-42 WLWB S-60
> 10AC
>

[Kurt Horvath]

Gregg,

That's exactly what my pumps were doing,"the backflow device in one pump fails, it
will make the other pump run continuously."

A by-pass or direct fill to the fresh water tank would be nice. I don't know about your coach, but I have to plan in advance when I want to fill my tank. It takes while 35 to 45 minuets, some times longer. It all passes through the water filter before it hits the tanks, it's just a thing, like the sewage air dumps, just have to plan for it.

I guess you could fabricate a loop with a hose coupling around the Sporlan valve.

Just went to have a look see at the Valve Controls on the new Bird at http://www.bluebirdcoachworks.com .

No labels ! I'm not genius, I would at least need a sticker or two. From an engravers POV, I see lots of potential, I just love shinny metal! The dash looks better, although I would have problem with the CB radio rammed up upon the seat. Huumm there's that attention to details I was talking about back in January.

Kurt Horvath

95 PT-42, ( one of the golden years )

10AC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor" wrote:
>
> the cut in a pipe or the end of a internal fitting cause more
> friction than a 90 degree elbow. if water takes a path that doesnt
> cross a fitting, that fitting causes no friction loss. If you want
> a project make a manual accessable sporlan tank fill bypass. I agree
> with you that there is little need for extra valves that may fail.
> CCW-BB even includes a row of plumbing valves with logo handles in
> their 15 photo 2009 brochure. I guess rich folks like lots of
> valves???. But.......... . the good pump will send
> the water thru the bad pump backwards and then resupply the
> continiously running pump. the good pump can not build pressure
> unless you cut off the circular path.
>
> Greg
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath"
> bumpersbird@ wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > After a close look at the original plumbing in the bay with the
> water
> > pumps, I have decided to remove most of the pipes and keep only
> the
> > basics.
> >
> > As per the installation instructions it recommends that there be
> no
> > restrictive elbows, shut off or check valves, use as few elbows
> and
> > valves as possible in the first 2 feet after the pump.
> >
> > Using the ½ I.D. flexible high pressure tubing, cut at 2 ½ feet
> for
> > each side of the pump will eliminate 4 elbows on each pump, ( my
> > coach has 2 pumps, you can run pump #1 or #2, or #1 
> together ).
> > It also has 4 T valves in the system. I am still trying to decide
> > their valor in the greater scheme of things.
> >
> > If anyone has any thoughts on why they have these cut off valves
> on
> > each side of the pumps I would like to hear about it. I guess they
> > are to shut off water to service the pumps or in case of a leak, I
> > just do not see if you would even use them that much.
> >
> > So that will cut out 6 restrictive devices off each pump, all of
> > which are within 12" of the pumps. The exit side of the pumps have
> 3
> > elbows within 3" of each other before they reach the accumulator
> > tank.. Speaking of that, the out side of the tank has a couple of
> 2
> > or 3 unnecessary elbows to boot!
> >
> > If you gently heat any plastic tubing you can make it bend into
> any
> > shape needed. So that would remove 3 elbows on the out side of the
> > accumulator tank, very easy to do, but will it help? It couldn't
> hurt.
> >
> > The cold water dump valve also has enough hardware to open a
> pluming
> > supply. I will redo that with a little upgrade,
> >
> > After he BBQ/Toolbox Bay upgrade, it would be nice if the coach
> had
> > flowing water on the curb side, near the outdoor kitchen. Nothing
> > fancy just a practical cold water hose with some kind of head at
> the
> > end. It will serve 2 uses as a curb side water source and replace
> the
> > cold water dump valve.
> >
> > The installation manual also mentions mounting the pumps in a
> easily
> > accessible location, well the space allotted , is, what it, is.
> I'll
> > mount the pumps on a 20" X12" piece of good plywood, then bolt
> that
> > to the outside of the plywood framing that surrounds the toolbox
> and
> > BBQ shelf.
> >
> > So with that and the Hydraulic fluid flush and the new 3000psi
> switch
> > I have to put on the HWH levelers and now you guys got me thinking
> > about Coolant filters! All I can say I'm happy Fuel prices are
> going
> > down @ Flying J. Not much but $3.99 is better than the $4.69 I
> paid
> > last trip.
> >
> > Kurt Horvath
> > 95 PT-42 WLWB S-60
> > 10AC
> >
>