Looking to purchase used 1992 WB40

[Pete Masterson]

On Mar 7, 2007, at 12:34 PM, mbrund wrote:

> Pete,
>
> Thanks for the feedback. The batteries and tires where one of the
> items on my list of concern knowing that they will require replacing
> at some point in the near future and than tab would be around $5K (was
> told it has GEL know, but plan to go AGM if I purchased and had to
> replace them). The tires are 5 years old, but the coach has spent its
> life inside when not being used. Depending on if they have ever been
> curbed or run low on air, they can be extended to 9 years if not dry
> rotted or thread wear, I will have to look at them close.

I'd suggest having (at least) one tire dismounted and inspected on
the inside. Sometimes the "rot" isn't visible from the outside. If
the coach has been stored more than driven (lately), the tires
sometimes lose their chemical protection -- flexing brings protective
chemicals to the surface -- lack of movement leaves the tires in
worse shape than those that get a regular workout.


>
> The fridge was replaced in the last 12 months or so, so should be no
> concern there. The cooktop and washer per the current owner have not
> been used since they owned it. So they need to be checked out well,
> especially the washer to make sure the seals are good.

You may end up not using the washer (much) either. We did a couple
'trial' loads in ours and were not impressed. Seems like using 4-5
machines at one time at a Laundromat would be both quicker and easier
to deal with. The dryer (120v) didn't do a very good job... but I now
hear that the dryer vent uses chassis air pressure to open, and I may
not have had enough air available for it to open. Another trial is
planned.

Assuming an LP gas cooktop, a careful check of the gas lines is in
order. (I have an electric cooktop -- and the previous owner lived in
it full time for about 2 years, so everything had been being used.)

> I would prefer a newer model, say '94 or so, but I have a budget and
> most are asking more than I want to spend at this time. Seems many
> people are trying to get retail prices for private sales, which means
> they will be sitting on their units for sometime to come with the turn
> down in the RV market as it is.

It's a common problem. There's '93 that I found attractive listed on
Vintage 'birds, but the asking was $159,000 back when I was first
looking. It's been subsequently reduced to $133,000 and again to
$123,000 --- a much more reasonable price. But I paid less than that
for my '95 (purchased last May) from a dealer. I can understand that
"pride of ownership" can become involved ... but many owners are
unwilling to accept the realities of the market. Admittedly, it is
very difficult getting reliable pricing in a market that is as thinly
traded as used BBs...

For the record, I purchased from Mr. Olivers via an eBay auction.
<http://www.mrolivers.com/Web_03_Diesel.htm>
I note that his inventory has drifted down lately -- he usually has 9
or 10 RVs in stock ... he may get something in shortly. I think he
represented the condition of my unit quite fairly -- and the price
was reasonable.

>
> The paint is not new, the coach was sent from BB in primer state when
> the coach was new to be custom painted. So the paint shows it age (14
> years: cracked around the wheel wells, some rivets, door panels, some
> rock dings, etc.).

Well, then that's pretty typical. It's still a nice job and from a
slight distance (or in a photo) doesn't look its age.

Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
El Sobrante, CA

[mbrund]

Well we went and did it now, we went from being wannabee's last week
to a newbee this week. We looked at two WB this week, a 1994 PT40
(well used and abused), and the white 1992 that was on Bird
Connection. The 1992 was in great shape for its years, we end up
purchasing the unit after going over it for 3 hours, and then 1 hour
drive on rought roads and interstate.

The only items we could find that had issues where: Front A/C was
low on freon, the tag axle tires have scrubbed off the inner tread
on both sides, the other tires while not dry rotted show significant
wear, the backup monitor does not work. That was pretty much the end
of the list of issues.

One issue that concerned me during the test drive revealed itself in
the user manual. I had the retarder in apply, and set the cruise
control at 65mph. We happen to hit a large expansion joint in a
bridge that gave us one heck of a jolt, and the cruise control shut
down. We expect that the retarder might have kicked in and shut off
the cruise when the rear axle went over the bump because we had no
more issues with cruise other than that incident as I turned off the
retarder after that.

The prior owner removed the rear body wide mud flap, so when I
inspected the radiator for debris I was surprised how clean it was.
And that is when he told me he removed the mud flap because he was
told it would cause an issue.

Engine campartment was clean, batteries showed no signs of
corrosion, no oil leaks in the under carriage other than at hose
joint for the hyd. fluid that I believe drives the power
steering/fan (it is a hose right under the radiator).

Michael Brundridge
1992 WLWB PT40 - Georgetown, TX

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
wrote:
>
> It's a good looking coach ... had it been available when I was
> looking it would have been high on my list of units to consider.
With
> the new paint job, you'll find that hardly anybody (outside the
BB
> community) will believe that it's a 15 year old RV. (My coach is
> quite similar, though a couple of years newer and with the Series
60
> engine.)
>
> The Primus heat is a concern ... but parts are available, even if
> single-sourced. A steel bodied RV does need a bit more heat (when
> it's cold) than, perhaps, a plastic model. (One of the trade-
offs,
> but I still much prefer the strength of steel.)
>
> The main concern is vehicle mechanical condition and the wear and
> tear on the various systems. If the engine hasn't been mistreated,
it
> is certainly good for a lot of miles beyond the 144,000 lsited.
The
> miles divided by the engine hours equals an average movement speed
of
> 50 mph -- that suggest that the coach was a fair number of
freeway
> miles. I would plan a fairly complete servicing including oil
change
> and brake inspection early on.
>
> One "watch for" is the condition of the radiator. DD engines are
not
> forgiving of overheating. It is common for the radiator to become
> partially clogged with oily-dirt. The tendency of DD engines to
spray
> a bit of oil through the breather tubes makes the problem worse
as
> the fan often sucks the oil mist back through the radiator mixing
> with dust that kicks up. This should be something that you
carefully
> monitor and try to clean out the radiator if it shows any
blockage.
> (It was very difficult to examine on my coach as it sits behind
the
> air-charge radiator (that cools air from the turbo charger), but
> perhaps the DD 8v92 configuration allows easier viewing of the
> radiator.) Simply pulling the radiator is a $2000+ job. The
complete
> replacement of the core may run as much as $3000+. (I also had
work
> done on my chassis AC -- so my tab came to about $4000 for core
> replacement and the other services performed by a professional
heavy
> duty radiator service. Costs for work done outside California may
be
> more reasonable.)
>
> Other expenses you might plan for would include new tires in a
year
> or two. (8 times $350~450) Also, the gel batteries have a life
> expectancy of up to about 7 years... but if they've been
mistreated,
> they may also be next to go. I'm shopping for batteries now ...
looks
> like about $2100 for six size 4D AGM house batteries. I haven't
> priced engine batteries (mine seem OK), but my coach has 3 AGM
class
> 37s -- about $160 each .
>
> Of some concern would be the refrigerator. While home
refrigerators
> used to run for 25-30 years, since the 80s, they've been
manufactured
> to only last about 10-12 years or so. It's hard to guess how long
an
> RV refrigerator might last -- it depends on brand, type (RV with
gas
> & electric option or regular home-type), and use. In particular,
if
> gas operated, the burner and venting is subject to corrosion.
>
> Not as difficult, but still a modest headache would be the
microwave/
> convection oven ... at 15 years, it, too, may be near it's
expected
> life span -- or not -- again depending on use, etc.
>
> Pete Masterson
> aeonix1@...
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> El Sobrante, CA

[brad barton]

Michael,
Congratulations on your new bird. Our first coach was an 84 FC-35 with a
Bendix air cruise unit. We had intermittent problems with our cruise, but
it was due to loose wiring. You may check under the buttons with a light
and mirror and see if anything can be snugged up.
After selling our Newell of 5 years, we are buying a 2000 LXi and I'll agree
condition is everything when it comes to a used motorcoach.
Brad Barton


>From: "mbrund" <mbrund@...>
>Reply-To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Looking to purchase used 1992 WB40
>Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 01:44:29 -0000
>
>Well we went and did it now, we went from being wannabee's last week
>to a newbee this week. We looked at two WB this week, a 1994 PT40
>(well used and abused), and the white 1992 that was on Bird
>Connection. The 1992 was in great shape for its years, we end up
>purchasing the unit after going over it for 3 hours, and then 1 hour
>drive on rought roads and interstate.
>
>The only items we could find that had issues where: Front A/C was
>low on freon, the tag axle tires have scrubbed off the inner tread
>on both sides, the other tires while not dry rotted show significant
>wear, the backup monitor does not work. That was pretty much the end
>of the list of issues.
>
>One issue that concerned me during the test drive revealed itself in
>the user manual. I had the retarder in apply, and set the cruise
>control at 65mph. We happen to hit a large expansion joint in a
>bridge that gave us one heck of a jolt, and the cruise control shut
>down. We expect that the retarder might have kicked in and shut off
>the cruise when the rear axle went over the bump because we had no
>more issues with cruise other than that incident as I turned off the
>retarder after that.
>
>The prior owner removed the rear body wide mud flap, so when I
>inspected the radiator for debris I was surprised how clean it was.
>And that is when he told me he removed the mud flap because he was
>told it would cause an issue.
>
>Engine campartment was clean, batteries showed no signs of
>corrosion, no oil leaks in the under carriage other than at hose
>joint for the hyd. fluid that I believe drives the power
>steering/fan (it is a hose right under the radiator).
>
>Michael Brundridge
>1992 WLWB PT40 - Georgetown, TX
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> wrote:
> >
> > It's a good looking coach ... had it been available when I was
> > looking it would have been high on my list of units to consider.
>With
> > the new paint job, you'll find that hardly anybody (outside the
>BB
> > community) will believe that it's a 15 year old RV. (My coach is
> > quite similar, though a couple of years newer and with the Series
>60
> > engine.)
> >
> > The Primus heat is a concern ... but parts are available, even if
> > single-sourced. A steel bodied RV does need a bit more heat (when
> > it's cold) than, perhaps, a plastic model. (One of the trade-
>offs,
> > but I still much prefer the strength of steel.)
> >
> > The main concern is vehicle mechanical condition and the wear and
> > tear on the various systems. If the engine hasn't been mistreated,
>it
> > is certainly good for a lot of miles beyond the 144,000 lsited.
>The
> > miles divided by the engine hours equals an average movement speed
>of
> > 50 mph -- that suggest that the coach was a fair number of
>freeway
> > miles. I would plan a fairly complete servicing including oil
>change
> > and brake inspection early on.
> >
> > One "watch for" is the condition of the radiator. DD engines are
>not
> > forgiving of overheating. It is common for the radiator to become
> > partially clogged with oily-dirt. The tendency of DD engines to
>spray
> > a bit of oil through the breather tubes makes the problem worse
>as
> > the fan often sucks the oil mist back through the radiator mixing
> > with dust that kicks up. This should be something that you
>carefully
> > monitor and try to clean out the radiator if it shows any
>blockage.
> > (It was very difficult to examine on my coach as it sits behind
>the
> > air-charge radiator (that cools air from the turbo charger), but
> > perhaps the DD 8v92 configuration allows easier viewing of the
> > radiator.) Simply pulling the radiator is a $2000+ job. The
>complete
> > replacement of the core may run as much as $3000+. (I also had
>work
> > done on my chassis AC -- so my tab came to about $4000 for core
> > replacement and the other services performed by a professional
>heavy
> > duty radiator service. Costs for work done outside California may
>be
> > more reasonable.)
> >
> > Other expenses you might plan for would include new tires in a
>year
> > or two. (8 times $350~450) Also, the gel batteries have a life
> > expectancy of up to about 7 years... but if they've been
>mistreated,
> > they may also be next to go. I'm shopping for batteries now ...
>looks
> > like about $2100 for six size 4D AGM house batteries. I haven't
> > priced engine batteries (mine seem OK), but my coach has 3 AGM
>class
> > 37s -- about $160 each .
> >
> > Of some concern would be the refrigerator. While home
>refrigerators
> > used to run for 25-30 years, since the 80s, they've been
>manufactured
> > to only last about 10-12 years or so. It's hard to guess how long
>an
> > RV refrigerator might last -- it depends on brand, type (RV with
>gas
> > & electric option or regular home-type), and use. In particular,
>if
> > gas operated, the burner and venting is subject to corrosion.
> >
> > Not as difficult, but still a modest headache would be the
>microwave/
> > convection oven ... at 15 years, it, too, may be near it's
>expected
> > life span -- or not -- again depending on use, etc.
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> > aeonix1@...
> > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> > El Sobrante, CA
>

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[Pete Masterson]

Congratulations! Welcome to the BB owners club...

The chassis AC is commonly not working... and there's some debate as
to whether it's worthwhile to fix. (Mine's fixed...)

Sounds like the tires are ready to replace. Scrubbing of the tag
tires is common ... especially during tight maneuvers. It helps to
'dump' the tag axle air bags (switch on the dash) if you're doing
much low speed turning. (Keep the tag axle fully aired up while on
the road... dumping the tag axle air bags is only for low speeds.)
BTW, if your going to use your jacks, dump the suspension first --
and always start with the tag axle since you don't want to strain it
with the full weight of the rear of the coach.

Can't comment on the retarder or mud flap (my '95 is different) ...
just be real sure that the radiator is really clear. When I inspected
mine (at purchase) it looked pretty clean -- but it was _ONLY_ the
area swept by the fan. Everything outside that was totally plugged --
and near-impossible to see. The air charge radiator (made of shiny
aluminum that was spotless) is in front of the water radiator so you
can't see from the outside. The fan shroud and AC condenser on the
inside make it very hard to get a good look from the inside... The
most common source of the clogging is from the breather tubes -- they
release a fine mist of oil -- that the fan sucks under the side of
the body right back through the radiator where the resulting coating
of oil allows dust to adhere. Turns into concrete, eventually.
Relocating the breather tubes so they exhaust to the curb side would
help. (It's on my to do list. The 8v has 2 breathers ... but my
Series 60 only has one ... that some genius located on the same side
of the engine as the fan. <sigh>)

Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
El Sobrante, CA




On Mar 11, 2007, at 6:44 PM, mbrund wrote:

> Well we went and did it now, we went from being wannabee's last week
> to a newbee this week. We looked at two WB this week, a 1994 PT40
> (well used and abused), and the white 1992 that was on Bird
> Connection. The 1992 was in great shape for its years, we end up
> purchasing the unit after going over it for 3 hours, and then 1 hour
> drive on rought roads and interstate.
>
> The only items we could find that had issues where: Front A/C was
> low on freon, the tag axle tires have scrubbed off the inner tread
> on both sides, the other tires while not dry rotted show significant
> wear, the backup monitor does not work. That was pretty much the end
> of the list of issues.
>
> One issue that concerned me during the test drive revealed itself in
> the user manual. I had the retarder in apply, and set the cruise
> control at 65mph. We happen to hit a large expansion joint in a
> bridge that gave us one heck of a jolt, and the cruise control shut
> down. We expect that the retarder might have kicked in and shut off
> the cruise when the rear axle went over the bump because we had no
> more issues with cruise other than that incident as I turned off the
> retarder after that.
>
> The prior owner removed the rear body wide mud flap, so when I
> inspected the radiator for debris I was surprised how clean it was.
> And that is when he told me he removed the mud flap because he was
> told it would cause an issue.
>
> Engine campartment was clean, batteries showed no signs of
> corrosion, no oil leaks in the under carriage other than at hose
> joint for the hyd. fluid that I believe drives the power
> steering/fan (it is a hose right under the radiator).
>
> Michael Brundridge
> 1992 WLWB PT40 - Georgetown, TX



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[rogerwwebb]

--- >
>
> >We happen to hit a large expansion joint in a
> >bridge that gave us one heck of a jolt, and the cruise control shut
> >down. We expect that the retarder might have kicked in and shut off
> >the cruise when the rear axle went over the bump because we had no
> >more issues with cruise other than that incident as I turned off the
> >retarder after that.
> >
> >
My cruise occassionaly shuts off if I hit a large bump, or if the
engine is pulling too hard (up hill). I do not know if this is normal,
but it has not been a big deal.

Roger Webb
91WL
Cedar Rapids, IA

[mbrund]

Guess I need to clarify. When I say the front AC, I mean the house
AC, the chassis AC blows so cold during the test drive I had to damn
near cut it off

I will look into moving the blow by tube on the street side to make
sure that in the future we do not get any oil blow by in the rad.

As for the tag, I checked the turning radius with and without the
tag dumped. I could feel the difference, so I know the dump was
working. I dumped the suspension and then set the HWH in auto mode
and it detected that the left and right rear where low by setting
the yellow LEDS on the panel, and then the pump kicked on and set
the levelers down and leveled out the unit. I am not use to the
auto levelers as my other coaches have all had manual adjust
levelers, so I have to get the bubble level out and do the corners
on my own in the past.

Now I need to find out what tires to put on the beast. I has
Michelin Pilots 315/80R22.5 PXZA's, is this what most on running on
the 90 model WB's? The only reference I see in the owners manual
talks about 12R22.5 which appear to be a taller, narrow, and less
capacity tire.


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
wrote:
>
> Congratulations! Welcome to the BB owners club...
>
> The chassis AC is commonly not working... and there's some debate
as
> to whether it's worthwhile to fix. (Mine's fixed...)
>
> Sounds like the tires are ready to replace. Scrubbing of the tag
> tires is common ... especially during tight maneuvers. It helps
to
> 'dump' the tag axle air bags (switch on the dash) if you're doing
> much low speed turning. (Keep the tag axle fully aired up while
on
> the road... dumping the tag axle air bags is only for low
speeds.)
> BTW, if your going to use your jacks, dump the suspension first --

> and always start with the tag axle since you don't want to strain
it
> with the full weight of the rear of the coach.
>
> Can't comment on the retarder or mud flap (my '95 is
different) ...
> just be real sure that the radiator is really clear. When I
inspected
> mine (at purchase) it looked pretty clean -- but it was _ONLY_
the
> area swept by the fan. Everything outside that was totally
plugged --
> and near-impossible to see. The air charge radiator (made of
shiny
> aluminum that was spotless) is in front of the water radiator so
you
> can't see from the outside. The fan shroud and AC condenser on
the
> inside make it very hard to get a good look from the inside...
The
> most common source of the clogging is from the breather tubes --
they
> release a fine mist of oil -- that the fan sucks under the side
of
> the body right back through the radiator where the resulting
coating
> of oil allows dust to adhere. Turns into concrete, eventually.
> Relocating the breather tubes so they exhaust to the curb side
would
> help. (It's on my to do list. The 8v has 2 breathers ... but my
> Series 60 only has one ... that some genius located on the same
side
> of the engine as the fan. <sigh>)
>
> Pete Masterson
> aeonix1@...
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> El Sobrante, CA
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 11, 2007, at 6:44 PM, mbrund wrote:
>
> > Well we went and did it now, we went from being wannabee's last
week
> > to a newbee this week. We looked at two WB this week, a 1994
PT40
> > (well used and abused), and the white 1992 that was on Bird
> > Connection. The 1992 was in great shape for its years, we end up
> > purchasing the unit after going over it for 3 hours, and then 1
hour
> > drive on rought roads and interstate.
> >
> > The only items we could find that had issues where: Front A/C was
> > low on freon, the tag axle tires have scrubbed off the inner
tread
> > on both sides, the other tires while not dry rotted show
significant
> > wear, the backup monitor does not work. That was pretty much the
end
> > of the list of issues.
> >
> > One issue that concerned me during the test drive revealed
itself in
> > the user manual. I had the retarder in apply, and set the cruise
> > control at 65mph. We happen to hit a large expansion joint in a
> > bridge that gave us one heck of a jolt, and the cruise control
shut
> > down. We expect that the retarder might have kicked in and shut
off
> > the cruise when the rear axle went over the bump because we had
no
> > more issues with cruise other than that incident as I turned off
the
> > retarder after that.
> >
> > The prior owner removed the rear body wide mud flap, so when I
> > inspected the radiator for debris I was surprised how clean it
was.
> > And that is when he told me he removed the mud flap because he
was
> > told it would cause an issue.
> >
> > Engine campartment was clean, batteries showed no signs of
> > corrosion, no oil leaks in the under carriage other than at hose
> > joint for the hyd. fluid that I believe drives the power
> > steering/fan (it is a hose right under the radiator).
> >
> > Michael Brundridge
> > 1992 WLWB PT40 - Georgetown, TX
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Gregory OConnor]

Michael, I wonder if the tag tires are scuffed because the PO (
previous owner) did not pump the bags up leaving the rear tag to
swing sideways around turns???? I drop air in the tag to back into
tight camp sites.

Some points to remember ;
always park with the steer wheels centered forward. When the bags
empty the bus will lower past the fender flairs.

Leave room for the auto step to open. The air step will automaticaly
pop out when it detect the air in the tanks may deplete past a
operating pressure. If parked too close, the step may extend over a
curb then the bags will lower the bus hung up on a curb.

When I bought my bus I was overwelmed with all the systems and terms.
In short time I learned; Sporlan is not a bace ball maker; Wabasto
is not an Asian spice; GoatRails are bodyparts; and, no matter what
the neighbors say,,,,, I was no longer a SOB

I hope you enjoy the ride.

GregoryO'Connor
94PTRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbrund" <mbrund@...>
wrote:
>
> Well we went and did it now, we went from being wannabee's last
week
> to a newbee this week. We looked at two WB this week, a 1994 PT40
> (well used and abused), and the white 1992 that was on Bird
> Connection. The 1992 was in great shape for its years, we end up
> purchasing the unit after going over it for 3 hours, and then 1
hour
> drive on rought roads and interstate.
>
> The only items we could find that had issues where: Front A/C was
> low on freon, the tag axle tires have scrubbed off the inner tread
> on both sides, the other tires while not dry rotted show
significant
> wear, the backup monitor does not work. That was pretty much the
end
> of the list of issues.
>
> One issue that concerned me during the test drive revealed itself
in
> the user manual. I had the retarder in apply, and set the cruise
> control at 65mph. We happen to hit a large expansion joint in a
> bridge that gave us one heck of a jolt, and the cruise control shut
> down. We expect that the retarder might have kicked in and shut
off
> the cruise when the rear axle went over the bump because we had no
> more issues with cruise other than that incident as I turned off
the
> retarder after that.
>
> The prior owner removed the rear body wide mud flap, so when I
> inspected the radiator for debris I was surprised how clean it
was.
> And that is when he told me he removed the mud flap because he was
> told it would cause an issue.
>
> Engine campartment was clean, batteries showed no signs of
> corrosion, no oil leaks in the under carriage other than at hose
> joint for the hyd. fluid that I believe drives the power
> steering/fan (it is a hose right under the radiator).
>
> Michael Brundridge
> 1992 WLWB PT40 - Georgetown, TX
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> wrote:
> >
> > It's a good looking coach ... had it been available when I was
> > looking it would have been high on my list of units to consider.
> With
> > the new paint job, you'll find that hardly anybody (outside the
> BB
> > community) will believe that it's a 15 year old RV. (My coach is
> > quite similar, though a couple of years newer and with the Series
> 60
> > engine.)
> >
> > The Primus heat is a concern ... but parts are available, even
if
> > single-sourced. A steel bodied RV does need a bit more heat
(when
> > it's cold) than, perhaps, a plastic model. (One of the trade-
> offs,
> > but I still much prefer the strength of steel.)
> >
> > The main concern is vehicle mechanical condition and the wear
and
> > tear on the various systems. If the engine hasn't been
mistreated,
> it
> > is certainly good for a lot of miles beyond the 144,000 lsited.
> The
> > miles divided by the engine hours equals an average movement
speed
> of
> > 50 mph -- that suggest that the coach was a fair number of
> freeway
> > miles. I would plan a fairly complete servicing including oil
> change
> > and brake inspection early on.
> >
> > One "watch for" is the condition of the radiator. DD engines are
> not
> > forgiving of overheating. It is common for the radiator to
become
> > partially clogged with oily-dirt. The tendency of DD engines to
> spray
> > a bit of oil through the breather tubes makes the problem worse
> as
> > the fan often sucks the oil mist back through the radiator
mixing
> > with dust that kicks up. This should be something that you
> carefully
> > monitor and try to clean out the radiator if it shows any
> blockage.
> > (It was very difficult to examine on my coach as it sits behind
> the
> > air-charge radiator (that cools air from the turbo charger), but
> > perhaps the DD 8v92 configuration allows easier viewing of the
> > radiator.) Simply pulling the radiator is a $2000+ job. The
> complete
> > replacement of the core may run as much as $3000+. (I also had
> work
> > done on my chassis AC -- so my tab came to about $4000 for core
> > replacement and the other services performed by a professional
> heavy
> > duty radiator service. Costs for work done outside California may
> be
> > more reasonable.)
> >
> > Other expenses you might plan for would include new tires in a
> year
> > or two. (8 times $350~450) Also, the gel batteries have a life
> > expectancy of up to about 7 years... but if they've been
> mistreated,
> > they may also be next to go. I'm shopping for batteries now ...
> looks
> > like about $2100 for six size 4D AGM house batteries. I haven't
> > priced engine batteries (mine seem OK), but my coach has 3 AGM
> class
> > 37s -- about $160 each .
> >
> > Of some concern would be the refrigerator. While home
> refrigerators
> > used to run for 25-30 years, since the 80s, they've been
> manufactured
> > to only last about 10-12 years or so. It's hard to guess how long
> an
> > RV refrigerator might last -- it depends on brand, type (RV with
> gas
> > & electric option or regular home-type), and use. In particular,
> if
> > gas operated, the burner and venting is subject to corrosion.
> >
> > Not as difficult, but still a modest headache would be the
> microwave/
> > convection oven ... at 15 years, it, too, may be near it's
> expected
> > life span -- or not -- again depending on use, etc.
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> > aeonix1@
> > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> > El Sobrante, CA
>

[mbrund]

When I read the manual I found it strange that when the pressure is
lost that the steps will extend. As well as you can not retract the
stepwell cover (unless you switch the manual over ride button).
These both seem backwards to me

Good point about the steer wheels, never really thought about it as
I always get pull through spots with my Discovery.

When I test drove it, I pressured the tags. The tag pressure gauge
was reading 75 PSI, not sure if this is high or not. Not sure if
the owner always remembered to pressure it or not, I would hope so.
But when I asked how he dumped to put the unit on the pads, he said
he just dumped them at the same time. But I know better, so I
dumped the tag, waited about 30-45 seconds and then dumped the
rest. I was surprised as I did not hear the out rush of air from
the bags like I hear on my Discovery when I dump it.

The dash is a little overwelming at first, but I have read the WB
manual twice now and believe I have a good handle on everything but
that silly Primus system , press this button before that button to
get this or that to work, don't press the domestic water heat during
winter month or you won't get good heat in the coach, close this
valve or that valve for winter/summer, so on and so on

Next I get to play with the spot/flood light

The bad thing is, I left the unit in AR with the owner as it is in a
enclosed building and I need to get my other unit moved out of it
location now so I can get the new unit there. So all I can do is
read the manuals in the meantime


Michael


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> Michael, I wonder if the tag tires are scuffed because the PO (
> previous owner) did not pump the bags up leaving the rear tag to
> swing sideways around turns???? I drop air in the tag to back into
> tight camp sites.
>
> Some points to remember ;
> always park with the steer wheels centered forward. When the bags
> empty the bus will lower past the fender flairs.
>
> Leave room for the auto step to open. The air step will
automaticaly
> pop out when it detect the air in the tanks may deplete past a
> operating pressure. If parked too close, the step may extend over
a
> curb then the bags will lower the bus hung up on a curb.
>
> When I bought my bus I was overwelmed with all the systems and
terms.
> In short time I learned; Sporlan is not a bace ball maker;
Wabasto
> is not an Asian spice; GoatRails are bodyparts; and, no matter
what
> the neighbors say,,,,, I was no longer a SOB
>
> I hope you enjoy the ride.
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94PTRomolandCa
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbrund" <mbrund@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Well we went and did it now, we went from being wannabee's last
> week
> > to a newbee this week. We looked at two WB this week, a 1994
PT40
> > (well used and abused), and the white 1992 that was on Bird
> > Connection. The 1992 was in great shape for its years, we end
up
> > purchasing the unit after going over it for 3 hours, and then 1
> hour
> > drive on rought roads and interstate.
> >
> > The only items we could find that had issues where: Front A/C
was
> > low on freon, the tag axle tires have scrubbed off the inner
tread
> > on both sides, the other tires while not dry rotted show
> significant
> > wear, the backup monitor does not work. That was pretty much the
> end
> > of the list of issues.
> >
> > One issue that concerned me during the test drive revealed
itself
> in
> > the user manual. I had the retarder in apply, and set the
cruise
> > control at 65mph. We happen to hit a large expansion joint in a
> > bridge that gave us one heck of a jolt, and the cruise control
shut
> > down. We expect that the retarder might have kicked in and shut
> off
> > the cruise when the rear axle went over the bump because we had
no
> > more issues with cruise other than that incident as I turned off
> the
> > retarder after that.
> >
> > The prior owner removed the rear body wide mud flap, so when I
> > inspected the radiator for debris I was surprised how clean it
> was.
> > And that is when he told me he removed the mud flap because he
was
> > told it would cause an issue.
> >
> > Engine campartment was clean, batteries showed no signs of
> > corrosion, no oil leaks in the under carriage other than at hose
> > joint for the hyd. fluid that I believe drives the power
> > steering/fan (it is a hose right under the radiator).
> >
> > Michael Brundridge
> > 1992 WLWB PT40 - Georgetown, TX
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > It's a good looking coach ... had it been available when I
was
> > > looking it would have been high on my list of units to
consider.
> > With
> > > the new paint job, you'll find that hardly anybody (outside
the
> > BB
> > > community) will believe that it's a 15 year old RV. (My coach
is
> > > quite similar, though a couple of years newer and with the
Series
> > 60
> > > engine.)
> > >
> > > The Primus heat is a concern ... but parts are available, even
> if
> > > single-sourced. A steel bodied RV does need a bit more heat
> (when
> > > it's cold) than, perhaps, a plastic model. (One of the trade-
> > offs,
> > > but I still much prefer the strength of steel.)
> > >
> > > The main concern is vehicle mechanical condition and the wear
> and
> > > tear on the various systems. If the engine hasn't been
> mistreated,
> > it
> > > is certainly good for a lot of miles beyond the 144,000
lsited.
> > The
> > > miles divided by the engine hours equals an average movement
> speed
> > of
> > > 50 mph -- that suggest that the coach was a fair number of
> > freeway
> > > miles. I would plan a fairly complete servicing including oil
> > change
> > > and brake inspection early on.
> > >
> > > One "watch for" is the condition of the radiator. DD engines
are
> > not
> > > forgiving of overheating. It is common for the radiator to
> become
> > > partially clogged with oily-dirt. The tendency of DD engines
to
> > spray
> > > a bit of oil through the breather tubes makes the problem
worse
> > as
> > > the fan often sucks the oil mist back through the radiator
> mixing
> > > with dust that kicks up. This should be something that you
> > carefully
> > > monitor and try to clean out the radiator if it shows any
> > blockage.
> > > (It was very difficult to examine on my coach as it sits
behind
> > the
> > > air-charge radiator (that cools air from the turbo charger),
but
> > > perhaps the DD 8v92 configuration allows easier viewing of
the
> > > radiator.) Simply pulling the radiator is a $2000+ job. The
> > complete
> > > replacement of the core may run as much as $3000+. (I also had
> > work
> > > done on my chassis AC -- so my tab came to about $4000 for
core
> > > replacement and the other services performed by a professional
> > heavy
> > > duty radiator service. Costs for work done outside California
may
> > be
> > > more reasonable.)
> > >
> > > Other expenses you might plan for would include new tires in a
> > year
> > > or two. (8 times $350~450) Also, the gel batteries have a
life
> > > expectancy of up to about 7 years... but if they've been
> > mistreated,
> > > they may also be next to go. I'm shopping for batteries
now ...
> > looks
> > > like about $2100 for six size 4D AGM house batteries. I
haven't
> > > priced engine batteries (mine seem OK), but my coach has 3 AGM
> > class
> > > 37s -- about $160 each .
> > >
> > > Of some concern would be the refrigerator. While home
> > refrigerators
> > > used to run for 25-30 years, since the 80s, they've been
> > manufactured
> > > to only last about 10-12 years or so. It's hard to guess how
long
> > an
> > > RV refrigerator might last -- it depends on brand, type (RV
with
> > gas
> > > & electric option or regular home-type), and use. In
particular,
> > if
> > > gas operated, the burner and venting is subject to corrosion.
> > >
> > > Not as difficult, but still a modest headache would be the
> > microwave/
> > > convection oven ... at 15 years, it, too, may be near it's
> > expected
> > > life span -- or not -- again depending on use, etc.
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson
> > > aeonix1@
> > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> > > El Sobrante, CA
> >
>

[Pete Masterson]

On Mar 11, 2007, at 7:48 PM, mbrund wrote:

> Guess I need to clarify. When I say the front AC, I mean the house
> AC, the chassis AC blows so cold during the test drive I had to damn
> near cut it off

Sounds like your chassis AC is in better shape than mine!

The roof ACs are much like a household 'window' unit, but modified
for the roof mounting. A tree branch KO'd my front AC (on my maiden
trip home) and my rear unit was only so-so... I replaced them both
with Duo-Therm 13,500 BTU High Efficiency units. These units only
draw 10 amps instead of 14.4 and therefore save a bit of electricity.
While they're taller than the "Penguin" model that comes on many BBs,
I already have a King Dome (TV antenna) that sticks up taller, so I
had no real loss of clearance height. (Interestingly, I think the
King Dome pushed the branch up so it whacked down even harder on the
front AC ... apparently the King Dome is fairly sturdy and wasn't
damaged.)

> <snip>
> As for the tag, I checked the turning radius with and without the
> tag dumped. I could feel the difference, so I know the dump was
> working. I dumped the suspension and then set the HWH in auto mode
> and it detected that the left and right rear where low by setting
> the yellow LEDS on the panel, and then the pump kicked on and set
> the levelers down and leveled out the unit. I am not use to the
> auto levelers as my other coaches have all had manual adjust
> levelers, so I have to get the bubble level out and do the corners
> on my own in the past.

The auto levelers are a great convenience. The sensor may be located
in the front basement compartment right were the top and front
bulkhead meet. Mine tends to stop leaving the right side not quite
1/4 bubble high. I'm told that this is "within spec" -- and that it's
quite complex to properly adjust the sensor. Once the automatic
leveling is complete, I tap the down arrow for the right side and it
brings it almost perfectly level.

>
> Now I need to find out what tires to put on the beast. I has
> Michelin Pilots 315/80R22.5 PXZA's, is this what most on running on
> the 90 model WB's? The only reference I see in the owners manual
> talks about 12R22.5 which appear to be a taller, narrow, and less
> capacity tire.


The "official" approved tire is a 12R22.5. Some have converted to the
315/80R22.5. Just be sure that the proper spacing remains between the
dual tires. The size difference may affect the accuracy of the
speedometer.

The 315s may allow you to run with slightly lower air pressure (for
the weight) giving a smoother ride. Review the weight tables on the
tire manufacturer's web site. Weigh your coach (fully loaded) to
double check for proper inflation.

Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
El Sobrante, CA





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Pete Masterson]

On Mar 11, 2007, at 10:18 PM, mbrund wrote:
<snip>
>
> When I test drove it, I pressured the tags. The tag pressure gauge
> was reading 75 PSI, not sure if this is high or not.

75 PSI is about right. Never drive _at speed_ without tag air as it
over-stresses the rear axle/suspension/tires. (Under 5 mph is OK.)
The suspension dump is rather quiet, I only know it's happening
'cause the steering wheel will turn a little bit as the coach sinks
down.

> The dash is a little overwelming at first,

Indeed it is... but it's what's not in the manual that will "get"
you. For example, when I couldn't get the _heat_ to work in my coach,
someone suggested turning _on_ the AC switch on the dashboard. I'd
never have guessed that one.


Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
El Sobrante, CA