Constant Door Chime

[Richard Hayden]

Gregory you're not nearly old enough to remember that movie.

Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA

----- Original Message -----
From: Gregory OConnor
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 3:06 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Constant Door Chime


Keith, Kevin is thinking you are using the wrong switch. You need a
momentary switch like the old starter buttons; the moment you push-
it makes contact, the moment you release- it loses contact. If the
doorbell button you are using now clicks when pushed, it may unclick
when pushed the second time. That would be a POPO switch

I am looking for a door bell chime that rings like the NewMoon
trailer in the LongLong Trailer movie.
GregoryO'Connor
94PTRomolandCa

--- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
"Keith Strehle"
wrote:
>
> Okay, I got it. SPST = Single Pole Single Throw. A SPST momentary
> switch returns to its normally open (off) position when you release
> the button. A standard doorbell switch. It doesn't solve the
problem
> (yet) but I know what it is now...
>
> Thanks, Keith
> 84FC35
>
>
>
>
> --- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
krminyl@ wrote:
> >
> > Are you sure it's a momentary, SPST push button switch? What
> happens when
> > you disconnect both wires from the switch? Does the chime
stop?
> Touch the
> > wires together, does the chime turn on again? If so, your
switch
> is the wrong
> > type. Use a multimeter on the switch contacts, and see what the
> switch does.
> > The switch could be grounded also, with one of the poles being
> momentary
> > "on" and the other always "on" always and off when pushed.
> >
> > Kevin Mc
> > Yorba Linda, CA
> > 86 38 PT
> >
> >
> >
> > ************************************** See what's free at
> http://www.aol.com.<http://www.aol.com./>
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Keith Strehle]

Hey Shane, I just called Nutone. The told me to go to Radio Shack
and pick up diode 1N4002 thru 1N4009. They said any of them will
work. I'll pick one up and let you know what happens.

Keith
84FC35


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Keith,
>
> That same thing happened to me- I believe that it has something
to
> do with the original door chime button being an "insulated" switch.
> Most of the newer residential ones are mounted to wood brick molding
> or a non-grounded aluminum screen door frame. In a residential
> application, this doesn't matter because the door frame is not
> grounded, so if the metal housing for a residential switch contacts
> the spring mechanism in the doorbell- nothing happens. On our
coaches,
> however, this creates problems because the skin of the coach serves
as
> a ground and as soon as you attach to new doorbell, the switch
grounds
> itself. Bluebird appears to have used an insulated switch mechanism
> where the spring does not contact the metal switch housing. I'd like
> to replace mine too, but it's not very high on the priorities list
so
> I did not pursue it. Please let us know if you find a suitable
> replacement.
>
> Shane Fedeli
> 85PT40
> Hershey, PA
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> wrote:
> >
> > It's a standard door bell switch from Home Depot. It releases
when
> > you stop pushing. But even if you pushed it down and held it
there
> > the bell should stop ringing until you push it again. Otherwise
> > every kid in the hood would be taping your dooebell button down!
> > It's a basic doorbell switch just like the one in my house.
There
> > must be something else to this story. ?????????
> >
> > Keith
> > 84FC35
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Keith, Kevin is thinking you are using the wrong switch. You
need a
> > > momentary switch like the old starter buttons; the moment you
push-
> > > it makes contact, the moment you release- it loses contact. If
the
> > > doorbell button you are using now clicks when pushed, it may
> > unclick
> > > when pushed the second time. That would be a POPO switch
> > >
> > >
> > > I am looking for a door bell chime that rings like the NewMoon
> > > trailer in the LongLong Trailer movie.
> > > GregoryO'Connor
> > > 94PTRomolandCa
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Okay, I got it. SPST = Single Pole Single Throw. A SPST
> > momentary
> > > > switch returns to its normally open (off) position when you
> > release
> > > > the button. A standard doorbell switch. It doesn't solve the
> > > problem
> > > > (yet) but I know what it is now...
> > > >
> > > > Thanks, Keith
> > > > 84FC35
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Are you sure it's a momentary, SPST push button switch?
What
> > > > happens when
> > > > > you disconnect both wires from the switch? Does the chime
> > > stop?
> > > > Touch the
> > > > > wires together, does the chime turn on again? If so, your
> > > switch
> > > > is the wrong
> > > > > type. Use a multimeter on the switch contacts, and see
what
> > the
> > > > switch does.
> > > > > The switch could be grounded also, with one of the poles
> > being
> > > > momentary
> > > > > "on" and the other always "on" always and off when pushed.
> > > > >
> > > > > Kevin Mc
> > > > > Yorba Linda, CA
> > > > > 86 38 PT
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ************************************** See what's free at
> > > > http://www.aol.com.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[James Harvie]

Keith. Not sure if this will help you but, I got courious with all this door
chime talk, seeing as mine didn't work either. Mine was a 2 part problem. First
thing I did was to throw in a new set of batteries. I pressed the switch, and
nothing. So I took of the cover of the chime, and jumped the 2 wires and still
nothing. I took the chime off of the wall and dug out the booklet for it and
started reading it. On the back , right under the part where it basicly says
it's going to outlive you, there was what appeared to be some type of rectifier
taped to the book. The scotch tape was rather yellow and brittle so not sure if
it was a factory issue or not, but anyway, I took the circut board out of the
plastic housing, and the groundstrap, for one of the batteries fell out on the
dinette table It looked like someone had dissassembled it and while
reassembling, maybe put a little too much pressure on the tabs ( you have to do
this to get the board back in) I soldered the tab back
on and traced down the location of the diode rectifier It fits in the D9 slot
marked on the circut board. I was going to solder the new one in but decided to
put it back together, I jumped the terminals while it was on the table, and off
it went. I installed it back on the wall and again tried it, with the switch,
and nothing. I removed the switch (mine has a brass rectangled backing plate
about 1 1/4" x 2 1/2" or so, with a white button that looks like it should
light. I threw my ohm meter across the terminals while on the bench, and pressed
the button, and no change on the meter, which told me the switch was open. I
layed the switch horizontally and sprayed CRC Powerlube in the button. I like to
use this lube for a few reasons. It's dielectric, which means you can use it in
electrical switches, and dries after a day or so, so when you spray it inside
your ignition switch, you can put your keys in your pocket, without staining
your clothes.lol I use this on anything that
moves. It works real well on the drawer slides etc. Anyway I started pressing
the button with the meter connected and after about a dozen times the meter
started to move, the switch was stuck open, after a few more times moving it it
was working fine. I tested also for a grounded switch and it wasn't grounded at
the button, it's insulated, I installed it back on the bus and although no light
it works just fine, I think the light is not servicable, it looked sealed. I
hope this helps.

Jimmy Harvie

82FC 35 SB

Boston Ma

Keith Strehle wrote:
Hey Shane, I just called Nutone. The told me to go to Radio Shack
and pick up diode 1N4002 thru 1N4009. They said any of them will
work. I'll pick one up and let you know what happens.

Keith
84FC35

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Keith,
>
> That same thing happened to me- I believe that it has something
to
> do with the original door chime button being an "insulated" switch.
> Most of the newer residential ones are mounted to wood brick molding
> or a non-grounded aluminum screen door frame. In a residential
> application, this doesn't matter because the door frame is not
> grounded, so if the metal housing for a residential switch contacts
> the spring mechanism in the doorbell- nothing happens. On our
coaches,
> however, this creates problems because the skin of the coach serves
as
> a ground and as soon as you attach to new doorbell, the switch
grounds
> itself. Bluebird appears to have used an insulated switch mechanism
> where the spring does not contact the metal switch housing. I'd like
> to replace mine too, but it's not very high on the priorities list
so
> I did not pursue it. Please let us know if you find a suitable
> replacement.
>
> Shane Fedeli
> 85PT40
> Hershey, PA
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> wrote:
> >
> > It's a standard door bell switch from Home Depot. It releases
when
> > you stop pushing. But even if you pushed it down and held it
there
> > the bell should stop ringing until you push it again. Otherwise
> > every kid in the hood would be taping your dooebell button down!
> > It's a basic doorbell switch just like the one in my house.
There
> > must be something else to this story. ?????????
> >
> > Keith
> > 84FC35
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Keith, Kevin is thinking you are using the wrong switch. You
need a
> > > momentary switch like the old starter buttons; the moment you
push-
> > > it makes contact, the moment you release- it loses contact. If
the
> > > doorbell button you are using now clicks when pushed, it may
> > unclick
> > > when pushed the second time. That would be a POPO switch
> > >
> > >
> > > I am looking for a door bell chime that rings like the NewMoon
> > > trailer in the LongLong Trailer movie.
> > > GregoryO'Connor
> > > 94PTRomolandCa
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Okay, I got it. SPST = Single Pole Single Throw. A SPST
> > momentary
> > > > switch returns to its normally open (off) position when you
> > release
> > > > the button. A standard doorbell switch. It doesn't solve the
> > > problem
> > > > (yet) but I know what it is now...
> > > >
> > > > Thanks, Keith
> > > > 84FC35
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Are you sure it's a momentary, SPST push button switch?
What
> > > > happens when
> > > > > you disconnect both wires from the switch? Does the chime
> > > stop?
> > > > Touch the
> > > > > wires together, does the chime turn on again? If so, your
> > > switch
> > > > is the wrong
> > > > > type. Use a multimeter on the switch contacts, and see
what
> > the
> > > > switch does.
> > > > > The switch could be grounded also, with one of the poles
> > being
> > > > momentary
> > > > > "on" and the other always "on" always and off when pushed.
> > > > >
> > > > > Kevin Mc
> > > > > Yorba Linda, CA
> > > > > 86 38 PT
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ************************************** See what's free at
> > > > http://www.aol.com.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Keith Strehle]

Mine does not have batteries in it. But it still works from the
button on the unit. Actually, it works fine from the remote button,
except that it won't stop. The folks at Nutone said to attach the
diode on the button teminals then attach the wires and it should
work. The diodes are availabble at Radio Shack. Only problem is
they come 25 to a package. The good news is they are $2.59 per
package. So, if you or anyone else needs a door bell diode....

Keith
84FC35

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, James Harvie
wrote:
>
> Keith. Not sure if this will help you but, I got courious with all
this door chime talk, seeing as mine didn't work either. Mine was a 2
part problem. First thing I did was to throw in a new set of
batteries. I pressed the switch, and nothing. So I took of the cover
of the chime, and jumped the 2 wires and still nothing. I took the
chime off of the wall and dug out the booklet for it and started
reading it. On the back , right under the part where it basicly says
it's going to outlive you, there was what appeared to be some type of
rectifier taped to the book. The scotch tape was rather yellow and
brittle so not sure if it was a factory issue or not, but anyway, I
took the circut board out of the plastic housing, and the
groundstrap, for one of the batteries fell out on the dinette table
It looked like someone had dissassembled it and while reassembling,
maybe put a little too much pressure on the tabs ( you have to do
this to get the board back in) I soldered the tab back
> on and traced down the location of the diode rectifier It fits in
the D9 slot marked on the circut board. I was going to solder the new
one in but decided to put it back together, I jumped the terminals
while it was on the table, and off it went. I installed it back on
the wall and again tried it, with the switch, and nothing. I removed
the switch (mine has a brass rectangled backing plate about 1 1/4" x
2 1/2" or so, with a white button that looks like it should light. I
threw my ohm meter across the terminals while on the bench, and
pressed the button, and no change on the meter, which told me the
switch was open. I layed the switch horizontally and sprayed CRC
Powerlube in the button. I like to use this lube for a few reasons.
It's dielectric, which means you can use it in electrical switches,
and dries after a day or so, so when you spray it inside your
ignition switch, you can put your keys in your pocket, without
staining your clothes.lol I use this on anything that
> moves. It works real well on the drawer slides etc. Anyway I
started pressing the button with the meter connected and after about
a dozen times the meter started to move, the switch was stuck open,
after a few more times moving it it was working fine. I tested also
for a grounded switch and it wasn't grounded at the button, it's
insulated, I installed it back on the bus and although no light it
works just fine, I think the light is not servicable, it looked
sealed. I hope this helps.
>
Jimmy Harvie
>
82FC 35 SB
>
Boston Ma
>
> Keith Strehle wrote:
> Hey Shane, I just called Nutone. The told me to go to
Radio Shack
> and pick up diode 1N4002 thru 1N4009. They said any of them will
> work. I'll pick one up and let you know what happens.
>
> Keith
> 84FC35
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Keith,
> >
> > That same thing happened to me- I believe that it has something
> to
> > do with the original door chime button being an "insulated"
switch.
> > Most of the newer residential ones are mounted to wood brick
molding
> > or a non-grounded aluminum screen door frame. In a residential
> > application, this doesn't matter because the door frame is not
> > grounded, so if the metal housing for a residential switch
contacts
> > the spring mechanism in the doorbell- nothing happens. On our
> coaches,
> > however, this creates problems because the skin of the coach
serves
> as
> > a ground and as soon as you attach to new doorbell, the switch
> grounds
> > itself. Bluebird appears to have used an insulated switch
mechanism
> > where the spring does not contact the metal switch housing. I'd
like
> > to replace mine too, but it's not very high on the priorities
list
> so
> > I did not pursue it. Please let us know if you find a suitable
> > replacement.
> >
> > Shane Fedeli
> > 85PT40
> > Hershey, PA
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > It's a standard door bell switch from Home Depot. It releases
> when
> > > you stop pushing. But even if you pushed it down and held it
> there
> > > the bell should stop ringing until you push it again. Otherwise
> > > every kid in the hood would be taping your dooebell button
down!
> > > It's a basic doorbell switch just like the one in my house.
> There
> > > must be something else to this story. ?????????
> > >
> > > Keith
> > > 84FC35
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Keith, Kevin is thinking you are using the wrong switch. You
> need a
> > > > momentary switch like the old starter buttons; the moment you
> push-
> > > > it makes contact, the moment you release- it loses contact.
If
> the
> > > > doorbell button you are using now clicks when pushed, it may
> > > unclick
> > > > when pushed the second time. That would be a POPO switch
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I am looking for a door bell chime that rings like the
NewMoon
> > > > trailer in the LongLong Trailer movie.
> > > > GregoryO'Connor
> > > > 94PTRomolandCa
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Okay, I got it. SPST = Single Pole Single Throw. A SPST
> > > momentary
> > > > > switch returns to its normally open (off) position when you
> > > release
> > > > > the button. A standard doorbell switch. It doesn't solve
the
> > > > problem
> > > > > (yet) but I know what it is now...
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks, Keith
> > > > > 84FC35
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@ wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Are you sure it's a momentary, SPST push button switch?
> What
> > > > > happens when
> > > > > > you disconnect both wires from the switch? Does the chime
> > > > stop?
> > > > > Touch the
> > > > > > wires together, does the chime turn on again? If so, your
> > > > switch
> > > > > is the wrong
> > > > > > type. Use a multimeter on the switch contacts, and see
> what
> > > the
> > > > > switch does.
> > > > > > The switch could be grounded also, with one of the poles
> > > being
> > > > > momentary
> > > > > > "on" and the other always "on" always and off when pushed.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Kevin Mc
> > > > > > Yorba Linda, CA
> > > > > > 86 38 PT
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ************************************** See what's free at
> > > > > http://www.aol.com.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss an email again!
> Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. Check it
out.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Gregory OConnor]

When the door bell is next on the list of repairs, the friggin bus must
be road ready. Mount a knocker and go RV'n

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

[sfedeli3]

Hi Keith,

Mine is 12V like yours. Are you saying to solder the diode between
the two contacts on the back of the new switch? What polarity is
recommended? Sounds like an easy fix and I already have a really nice
bronze switch to try out.

-Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
wrote:
>
> Mine does not have batteries in it. But it still works from the
> button on the unit. Actually, it works fine from the remote button,
> except that it won't stop. The folks at Nutone said to attach the
> diode on the button teminals then attach the wires and it should
> work. The diodes are availabble at Radio Shack. Only problem is
> they come 25 to a package. The good news is they are $2.59 per
> package. So, if you or anyone else needs a door bell diode....
>
> Keith
> 84FC35
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, James Harvie
> wrote:
> >
> > Keith. Not sure if this will help you but, I got courious with all
> this door chime talk, seeing as mine didn't work either. Mine was a 2
> part problem. First thing I did was to throw in a new set of
> batteries. I pressed the switch, and nothing. So I took of the cover
> of the chime, and jumped the 2 wires and still nothing. I took the
> chime off of the wall and dug out the booklet for it and started
> reading it. On the back , right under the part where it basicly says
> it's going to outlive you, there was what appeared to be some type of
> rectifier taped to the book. The scotch tape was rather yellow and
> brittle so not sure if it was a factory issue or not, but anyway, I
> took the circut board out of the plastic housing, and the
> groundstrap, for one of the batteries fell out on the dinette table
> It looked like someone had dissassembled it and while reassembling,
> maybe put a little too much pressure on the tabs ( you have to do
> this to get the board back in) I soldered the tab back
> > on and traced down the location of the diode rectifier It fits in
> the D9 slot marked on the circut board. I was going to solder the new
> one in but decided to put it back together, I jumped the terminals
> while it was on the table, and off it went. I installed it back on
> the wall and again tried it, with the switch, and nothing. I removed
> the switch (mine has a brass rectangled backing plate about 1 1/4" x
> 2 1/2" or so, with a white button that looks like it should light. I
> threw my ohm meter across the terminals while on the bench, and
> pressed the button, and no change on the meter, which told me the
> switch was open. I layed the switch horizontally and sprayed CRC
> Powerlube in the button. I like to use this lube for a few reasons.
> It's dielectric, which means you can use it in electrical switches,
> and dries after a day or so, so when you spray it inside your
> ignition switch, you can put your keys in your pocket, without
> staining your clothes.lol I use this on anything that
> > moves. It works real well on the drawer slides etc. Anyway I
> started pressing the button with the meter connected and after about
> a dozen times the meter started to move, the switch was stuck open,
> after a few more times moving it it was working fine. I tested also
> for a grounded switch and it wasn't grounded at the button, it's
> insulated, I installed it back on the bus and although no light it
> works just fine, I think the light is not servicable, it looked
> sealed. I hope this helps.
> >
> Jimmy Harvie
> >
> 82FC 35 SB
> >
> Boston Ma
> >
> > Keith Strehle wrote:
> > Hey Shane, I just called Nutone. The told me to go to
> Radio Shack
> > and pick up diode 1N4002 thru 1N4009. They said any of them will
> > work. I'll pick one up and let you know what happens.
> >
> > Keith
> > 84FC35
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Keith,
> > >
> > > That same thing happened to me- I believe that it has something
> > to
> > > do with the original door chime button being an "insulated"
> switch.
> > > Most of the newer residential ones are mounted to wood brick
> molding
> > > or a non-grounded aluminum screen door frame. In a residential
> > > application, this doesn't matter because the door frame is not
> > > grounded, so if the metal housing for a residential switch
> contacts
> > > the spring mechanism in the doorbell- nothing happens. On our
> > coaches,
> > > however, this creates problems because the skin of the coach
> serves
> > as
> > > a ground and as soon as you attach to new doorbell, the switch
> > grounds
> > > itself. Bluebird appears to have used an insulated switch
> mechanism
> > > where the spring does not contact the metal switch housing. I'd
> like
> > > to replace mine too, but it's not very high on the priorities
> list
> > so
> > > I did not pursue it. Please let us know if you find a suitable
> > > replacement.
> > >
> > > Shane Fedeli
> > > 85PT40
> > > Hershey, PA
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > It's a standard door bell switch from Home Depot. It releases
> > when
> > > > you stop pushing. But even if you pushed it down and held it
> > there
> > > > the bell should stop ringing until you push it again. Otherwise
> > > > every kid in the hood would be taping your dooebell button
> down!
> > > > It's a basic doorbell switch just like the one in my house.
> > There
> > > > must be something else to this story. ?????????
> > > >
> > > > Keith
> > > > 84FC35
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Keith, Kevin is thinking you are using the wrong switch. You
> > need a
> > > > > momentary switch like the old starter buttons; the moment you
> > push-
> > > > > it makes contact, the moment you release- it loses contact.
> If
> > the
> > > > > doorbell button you are using now clicks when pushed, it may
> > > > unclick
> > > > > when pushed the second time. That would be a POPO switch
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I am looking for a door bell chime that rings like the
> NewMoon
> > > > > trailer in the LongLong Trailer movie.
> > > > > GregoryO'Connor
> > > > > 94PTRomolandCa
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Okay, I got it. SPST = Single Pole Single Throw. A SPST
> > > > momentary
> > > > > > switch returns to its normally open (off) position when you
> > > > release
> > > > > > the button. A standard doorbell switch. It doesn't solve
> the
> > > > > problem
> > > > > > (yet) but I know what it is now...
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks, Keith
> > > > > > 84FC35
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@ wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Are you sure it's a momentary, SPST push button switch?
> > What
> > > > > > happens when
> > > > > > > you disconnect both wires from the switch? Does the chime
> > > > > stop?
> > > > > > Touch the
> > > > > > > wires together, does the chime turn on again? If so, your
> > > > > switch
> > > > > > is the wrong
> > > > > > > type. Use a multimeter on the switch contacts, and see
> > what
> > > > the
> > > > > > switch does.
> > > > > > > The switch could be grounded also, with one of the poles
> > > > being
> > > > > > momentary
> > > > > > > "on" and the other always "on" always and off when pushed.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Kevin Mc
> > > > > > > Yorba Linda, CA
> > > > > > > 86 38 PT
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ************************************** See what's free at
> > > > > > http://www.aol.com.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Never miss an email again!
> > Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. Check it
> out.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

[Keith Strehle]

A door knocker! Dang! I never thought of that! Greg, this doorbell
thing is one of those little things you think will be an easy fix. A
new doorbell button and in five minutes, done. It didn't work out
that way and became more like a challenge. We all have them.

Your're a pretty intelligent guy. Tell me whay it doesn't work like
it's supposed to?

Thanks, Keith
84FC35


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> When the door bell is next on the list of repairs, the friggin bus
must
> be road ready. Mount a knocker and go RV'n
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>

[Keith Strehle]

The Nutone tech support person said to "attach" the diode to the
terminals. No mention of polarity? I'm going to wrap the diode
wires around the terminal screws, hook it up and see what happen. If
it doesn't work, I'm out $2.59....


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Keith,
>
> Mine is 12V like yours. Are you saying to solder the diode between
> the two contacts on the back of the new switch? What polarity is
> recommended? Sounds like an easy fix and I already have a really
nice
> bronze switch to try out.
>
> -Shane Fedeli
> 85PT40
> Hershey, PA
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> wrote:
> >
> > Mine does not have batteries in it. But it still works from the
> > button on the unit. Actually, it works fine from the remote
button,
> > except that it won't stop. The folks at Nutone said to attach
the
> > diode on the button teminals then attach the wires and it should
> > work. The diodes are availabble at Radio Shack. Only problem is
> > they come 25 to a package. The good news is they are $2.59 per
> > package. So, if you or anyone else needs a door bell diode....
> >
> > Keith
> > 84FC35
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, James Harvie
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Keith. Not sure if this will help you but, I got courious with
all
> > this door chime talk, seeing as mine didn't work either. Mine was
a 2
> > part problem. First thing I did was to throw in a new set of
> > batteries. I pressed the switch, and nothing. So I took of the
cover
> > of the chime, and jumped the 2 wires and still nothing. I took
the
> > chime off of the wall and dug out the booklet for it and started
> > reading it. On the back , right under the part where it basicly
says
> > it's going to outlive you, there was what appeared to be some
type of
> > rectifier taped to the book. The scotch tape was rather yellow
and
> > brittle so not sure if it was a factory issue or not, but anyway,
I
> > took the circut board out of the plastic housing, and the
> > groundstrap, for one of the batteries fell out on the dinette
table
> > It looked like someone had dissassembled it and while
reassembling,
> > maybe put a little too much pressure on the tabs ( you have to do
> > this to get the board back in) I soldered the tab back
> > > on and traced down the location of the diode rectifier It
fits in
> > the D9 slot marked on the circut board. I was going to solder the
new
> > one in but decided to put it back together, I jumped the
terminals
> > while it was on the table, and off it went. I installed it back
on
> > the wall and again tried it, with the switch, and nothing. I
removed
> > the switch (mine has a brass rectangled backing plate about 1
1/4" x
> > 2 1/2" or so, with a white button that looks like it should
light. I
> > threw my ohm meter across the terminals while on the bench, and
> > pressed the button, and no change on the meter, which told me the
> > switch was open. I layed the switch horizontally and sprayed CRC
> > Powerlube in the button. I like to use this lube for a few
reasons.
> > It's dielectric, which means you can use it in electrical
switches,
> > and dries after a day or so, so when you spray it inside your
> > ignition switch, you can put your keys in your pocket, without
> > staining your clothes.lol I use this on anything that
> > > moves. It works real well on the drawer slides etc. Anyway I
> > started pressing the button with the meter connected and after
about
> > a dozen times the meter started to move, the switch was stuck
open,
> > after a few more times moving it it was working fine. I tested
also
> > for a grounded switch and it wasn't grounded at the button, it's
> > insulated, I installed it back on the bus and although no light
it
> > works just fine, I think the light is not servicable, it looked
> > sealed. I hope this helps.
> >
>
> > Jimmy Harvie
> >
>
> > 82FC 35 SB
> >
>
> > Boston Ma
> > >
> > > Keith Strehle wrote:
> > > Hey Shane, I just called Nutone. The told me to go to
> > Radio Shack
> > > and pick up diode 1N4002 thru 1N4009. They said any of them
will
> > > work. I'll pick one up and let you know what happens.
> > >
> > > Keith
> > > 84FC35
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Keith,
> > > >
> > > > That same thing happened to me- I believe that it has
something
> > > to
> > > > do with the original door chime button being an "insulated"
> > switch.
> > > > Most of the newer residential ones are mounted to wood brick
> > molding
> > > > or a non-grounded aluminum screen door frame. In a residential
> > > > application, this doesn't matter because the door frame is not
> > > > grounded, so if the metal housing for a residential switch
> > contacts
> > > > the spring mechanism in the doorbell- nothing happens. On our
> > > coaches,
> > > > however, this creates problems because the skin of the coach
> > serves
> > > as
> > > > a ground and as soon as you attach to new doorbell, the
switch
> > > grounds
> > > > itself. Bluebird appears to have used an insulated switch
> > mechanism
> > > > where the spring does not contact the metal switch housing.
I'd
> > like
> > > > to replace mine too, but it's not very high on the priorities
> > list
> > > so
> > > > I did not pursue it. Please let us know if you find a suitable
> > > > replacement.
> > > >
> > > > Shane Fedeli
> > > > 85PT40
> > > > Hershey, PA
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > It's a standard door bell switch from Home Depot. It
releases
> > > when
> > > > > you stop pushing. But even if you pushed it down and held
it
> > > there
> > > > > the bell should stop ringing until you push it again.
Otherwise
> > > > > every kid in the hood would be taping your dooebell button
> > down!
> > > > > It's a basic doorbell switch just like the one in my house.
> > > There
> > > > > must be something else to this story. ?????????
> > > > >
> > > > > Keith
> > > > > 84FC35
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Keith, Kevin is thinking you are using the wrong switch.
You
> > > need a
> > > > > > momentary switch like the old starter buttons; the moment
you
> > > push-
> > > > > > it makes contact, the moment you release- it loses
contact.
> > If
> > > the
> > > > > > doorbell button you are using now clicks when pushed, it
may
> > > > > unclick
> > > > > > when pushed the second time. That would be a POPO switch
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I am looking for a door bell chime that rings like the
> > NewMoon
> > > > > > trailer in the LongLong Trailer movie.
> > > > > > GregoryO'Connor
> > > > > > 94PTRomolandCa
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Okay, I got it. SPST = Single Pole Single Throw. A SPST
> > > > > momentary
> > > > > > > switch returns to its normally open (off) position when
you
> > > > > release
> > > > > > > the button. A standard doorbell switch. It doesn't
solve
> > the
> > > > > > problem
> > > > > > > (yet) but I know what it is now...
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks, Keith
> > > > > > > 84FC35
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@ wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Are you sure it's a momentary, SPST push button
switch?
> > > What
> > > > > > > happens when
> > > > > > > > you disconnect both wires from the switch? Does the
chime
> > > > > > stop?
> > > > > > > Touch the
> > > > > > > > wires together, does the chime turn on again? If so,
your
> > > > > > switch
> > > > > > > is the wrong
> > > > > > > > type. Use a multimeter on the switch contacts, and
see
> > > what
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > switch does.
> > > > > > > > The switch could be grounded also, with one of the
poles
> > > > > being
> > > > > > > momentary
> > > > > > > > "on" and the other always "on" always and off when
pushed.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Kevin Mc
> > > > > > > > Yorba Linda, CA
> > > > > > > > 86 38 PT
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > ************************************** See what's
free at
> > > > > > > http://www.aol.com.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Never miss an email again!
> > > Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. Check
it
> > out.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>

[Don Bradner]

The first item in the Nutone online FAQ is:

What is the small electronic part that comes with the LA-52WH?

It is a diode that needs to be put across the button that connects to the front
terminals. The diode is polarized. If it does not work when first installed,
then reverse the diode.


On 4/5/2007 at 4:24 PM Keith Strehle wrote:

>The Nutone tech support person said to "attach" the diode to the
>terminals. No mention of polarity? I'm going to wrap the diode
>wires around the terminal screws, hook it up and see what happen. If
>it doesn't work, I'm out $2.59....
>
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@...>
>wrote:
>>
>> Hi Keith,
>>
>> Mine is 12V like yours. Are you saying to solder the diode between
>> the two contacts on the back of the new switch? What polarity is
>> recommended? Sounds like an easy fix and I already have a really
>nice
>> bronze switch to try out.
>>
>> -Shane Fedeli
>> 85PT40
>> Hershey, PA
>>
>> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Mine does not have batteries in it. But it still works from the
>> > button on the unit. Actually, it works fine from the remote
>button,
>> > except that it won't stop. The folks at Nutone said to attach
>the
>> > diode on the button teminals then attach the wires and it should
>> > work. The diodes are availabble at Radio Shack. Only problem is
>> > they come 25 to a package. The good news is they are $2.59 per
>> > package. So, if you or anyone else needs a door bell diode....
>> >
>> > Keith
>> > 84FC35
>> >
>> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, James Harvie
>> > wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Keith. Not sure if this will help you but, I got courious with
>all
>> > this door chime talk, seeing as mine didn't work either. Mine was
>a 2
>> > part problem. First thing I did was to throw in a new set of
>> > batteries. I pressed the switch, and nothing. So I took of the
>cover
>> > of the chime, and jumped the 2 wires and still nothing. I took
>the
>> > chime off of the wall and dug out the booklet for it and started
>> > reading it. On the back , right under the part where it basicly
>says
>> > it's going to outlive you, there was what appeared to be some
>type of
>> > rectifier taped to the book. The scotch tape was rather yellow
>and
>> > brittle so not sure if it was a factory issue or not, but anyway,
>I
>> > took the circut board out of the plastic housing, and the
>> > groundstrap, for one of the batteries fell out on the dinette
>table
>> > It looked like someone had dissassembled it and while
>reassembling,
>> > maybe put a little too much pressure on the tabs ( you have to do
>> > this to get the board back in) I soldered the tab back
>> > > on and traced down the location of the diode rectifier It
>fits in
>> > the D9 slot marked on the circut board. I was going to solder the
>new
>> > one in but decided to put it back together, I jumped the
>terminals
>> > while it was on the table, and off it went. I installed it back
>on
>> > the wall and again tried it, with the switch, and nothing. I
>removed
>> > the switch (mine has a brass rectangled backing plate about 1
>1/4" x
>> > 2 1/2" or so, with a white button that looks like it should
>light. I
>> > threw my ohm meter across the terminals while on the bench, and
>> > pressed the button, and no change on the meter, which told me the
>> > switch was open. I layed the switch horizontally and sprayed CRC
>> > Powerlube in the button. I like to use this lube for a few
>reasons.
>> > It's dielectric, which means you can use it in electrical
>switches,
>> > and dries after a day or so, so when you spray it inside your
>> > ignition switch, you can put your keys in your pocket, without
>> > staining your clothes.lol I use this on anything that
>> > > moves. It works real well on the drawer slides etc. Anyway I
>> > started pressing the button with the meter connected and after
>about
>> > a dozen times the meter started to move, the switch was stuck
>open,
>> > after a few more times moving it it was working fine. I tested
>also
>> > for a grounded switch and it wasn't grounded at the button, it's
>> > insulated, I installed it back on the bus and although no light
>it
>> > works just fine, I think the light is not servicable, it looked
>> > sealed. I hope this helps.
>> >
>>
>> > Jimmy Harvie
>> >
>>
>> > 82FC 35 SB
>> >
>>
>> > Boston Ma
>> > >
>> > > Keith Strehle wrote:
>> > > Hey Shane, I just called Nutone. The told me to go to
>> > Radio Shack
>> > > and pick up diode 1N4002 thru 1N4009. They said any of them
>will
>> > > work. I'll pick one up and let you know what happens.
>> > >
>> > > Keith
>> > > 84FC35
>> > >
>> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@>
>> > > wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > Hi Keith,
>> > > >
>> > > > That same thing happened to me- I believe that it has
>something
>> > > to
>> > > > do with the original door chime button being an "insulated"
>> > switch.
>> > > > Most of the newer residential ones are mounted to wood brick
>> > molding
>> > > > or a non-grounded aluminum screen door frame. In a residential
>> > > > application, this doesn't matter because the door frame is not
>> > > > grounded, so if the metal housing for a residential switch
>> > contacts
>> > > > the spring mechanism in the doorbell- nothing happens. On our
>> > > coaches,
>> > > > however, this creates problems because the skin of the coach
>> > serves
>> > > as
>> > > > a ground and as soon as you attach to new doorbell, the
>switch
>> > > grounds
>> > > > itself. Bluebird appears to have used an insulated switch
>> > mechanism
>> > > > where the spring does not contact the metal switch housing.
>I'd
>> > like
>> > > > to replace mine too, but it's not very high on the priorities
>> > list
>> > > so
>> > > > I did not pursue it. Please let us know if you find a suitable
>> > > > replacement.
>> > > >
>> > > > Shane Fedeli
>> > > > 85PT40
>> > > > Hershey, PA
>> > > >
>> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
>> > > > wrote:
>> > > > >
>> > > > > It's a standard door bell switch from Home Depot. It
>releases
>> > > when
>> > > > > you stop pushing. But even if you pushed it down and held
>it
>> > > there
>> > > > > the bell should stop ringing until you push it again.
>Otherwise
>> > > > > every kid in the hood would be taping your dooebell button
>> > down!
>> > > > > It's a basic doorbell switch just like the one in my house.
>> > > There
>> > > > > must be something else to this story. ?????????
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Keith
>> > > > > 84FC35
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
>> > > > > wrote:
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > Keith, Kevin is thinking you are using the wrong switch.
>You
>> > > need a
>> > > > > > momentary switch like the old starter buttons; the moment
>you
>> > > push-
>> > > > > > it makes contact, the moment you release- it loses
>contact.
>> > If
>> > > the
>> > > > > > doorbell button you are using now clicks when pushed, it
>may
>> > > > > unclick
>> > > > > > when pushed the second time. That would be a POPO switch
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > I am looking for a door bell chime that rings like the
>> > NewMoon
>> > > > > > trailer in the LongLong Trailer movie.
>> > > > > > GregoryO'Connor
>> > > > > > 94PTRomolandCa
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
>> > > > > > wrote:
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > Okay, I got it. SPST = Single Pole Single Throw. A SPST
>> > > > > momentary
>> > > > > > > switch returns to its normally open (off) position when
>you
>> > > > > release
>> > > > > > > the button. A standard doorbell switch. It doesn't
>solve
>> > the
>> > > > > > problem
>> > > > > > > (yet) but I know what it is now...
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > Thanks, Keith
>> > > > > > > 84FC35
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@ wrote:
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Are you sure it's a momentary, SPST push button
>switch?
>> > > What
>> > > > > > > happens when
>> > > > > > > > you disconnect both wires from the switch? Does the
>chime
>> > > > > > stop?
>> > > > > > > Touch the
>> > > > > > > > wires together, does the chime turn on again? If so,
>your
>> > > > > > switch
>> > > > > > > is the wrong
>> > > > > > > > type. Use a multimeter on the switch contacts, and
>see
>> > > what
>> > > > > the
>> > > > > > > switch does.
>> > > > > > > > The switch could be grounded also, with one of the
>poles
>> > > > > being
>> > > > > > > momentary
>> > > > > > > > "on" and the other always "on" always and off when
>pushed.
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Kevin Mc
>> > > > > > > > Yorba Linda, CA
>> > > > > > > > 86 38 PT
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > ************************************** See what's
>free at
>> > > > > > > http://www.aol.com.
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ---------------------------------
>> > > Never miss an email again!
>> > > Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. Check
>it
>> > out.
>> > >
>> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> > >
>> >
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA

[Keith Strehle]

Thanks Don, it's a small project but didn't make sense so I couldn't
just drop it. One of the others here Shane(?) mentioned that he
found a diode taped to the booklet that came with his Nutone door
chime.

Thanks, Keith
84FC35


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
wrote:
>
> The first item in the Nutone online FAQ is:
>
> What is the small electronic part that comes with the LA-52WH?
>
> It is a diode that needs to be put across the button that connects
to the front terminals. The diode is polarized. If it does not work
when first installed, then reverse the diode.
>
>
> On 4/5/2007 at 4:24 PM Keith Strehle wrote:
>
> >The Nutone tech support person said to "attach" the diode to the
> >terminals. No mention of polarity? I'm going to wrap the diode
> >wires around the terminal screws, hook it up and see what happen.
If
> >it doesn't work, I'm out $2.59....
> >
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@>
> >wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Keith,
> >>
> >> Mine is 12V like yours. Are you saying to solder the diode
between
> >> the two contacts on the back of the new switch? What polarity is
> >> recommended? Sounds like an easy fix and I already have a really
> >nice
> >> bronze switch to try out.
> >>
> >> -Shane Fedeli
> >> 85PT40
> >> Hershey, PA
> >>
> >> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> >> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Mine does not have batteries in it. But it still works from
the
> >> > button on the unit. Actually, it works fine from the remote
> >button,
> >> > except that it won't stop. The folks at Nutone said to attach
> >the
> >> > diode on the button teminals then attach the wires and it
should
> >> > work. The diodes are availabble at Radio Shack. Only problem
is
> >> > they come 25 to a package. The good news is they are $2.59
per
> >> > package. So, if you or anyone else needs a door bell diode....
> >> >
> >> > Keith
> >> > 84FC35
> >> >
> >> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, James Harvie
> >> > wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > Keith. Not sure if this will help you but, I got courious
with
> >all
> >> > this door chime talk, seeing as mine didn't work either. Mine
was
> >a 2
> >> > part problem. First thing I did was to throw in a new set of
> >> > batteries. I pressed the switch, and nothing. So I took of the
> >cover
> >> > of the chime, and jumped the 2 wires and still nothing. I took
> >the
> >> > chime off of the wall and dug out the booklet for it and
started
> >> > reading it. On the back , right under the part where it
basicly
> >says
> >> > it's going to outlive you, there was what appeared to be some
> >type of
> >> > rectifier taped to the book. The scotch tape was rather yellow
> >and
> >> > brittle so not sure if it was a factory issue or not, but
anyway,
> >I
> >> > took the circut board out of the plastic housing, and the
> >> > groundstrap, for one of the batteries fell out on the dinette
> >table
> >> > It looked like someone had dissassembled it and while
> >reassembling,
> >> > maybe put a little too much pressure on the tabs ( you have to
do
> >> > this to get the board back in) I soldered the tab back
> >> > > on and traced down the location of the diode rectifier It
> >fits in
> >> > the D9 slot marked on the circut board. I was going to solder
the
> >new
> >> > one in but decided to put it back together, I jumped the
> >terminals
> >> > while it was on the table, and off it went. I installed it
back
> >on
> >> > the wall and again tried it, with the switch, and nothing. I
> >removed
> >> > the switch (mine has a brass rectangled backing plate about 1
> >1/4" x
> >> > 2 1/2" or so, with a white button that looks like it should
> >light. I
> >> > threw my ohm meter across the terminals while on the bench,
and
> >> > pressed the button, and no change on the meter, which told me
the
> >> > switch was open. I layed the switch horizontally and sprayed
CRC
> >> > Powerlube in the button. I like to use this lube for a few
> >reasons.
> >> > It's dielectric, which means you can use it in electrical
> >switches,
> >> > and dries after a day or so, so when you spray it inside your
> >> > ignition switch, you can put your keys in your pocket, without
> >> > staining your clothes.lol I use this on anything that
> >> > > moves. It works real well on the drawer slides etc. Anyway
I
> >> > started pressing the button with the meter connected and after
> >about
> >> > a dozen times the meter started to move, the switch was stuck
> >open,
> >> > after a few more times moving it it was working fine. I tested
> >also
> >> > for a grounded switch and it wasn't grounded at the button,
it's
> >> > insulated, I installed it back on the bus and although no
light
> >it
> >> > works just fine, I think the light is not servicable, it
looked
> >> > sealed. I hope this helps.
> >> >
>
>>

> >> > Jimmy Harvie
> >> >
>
>>

> >> > 82FC 35 SB
> >> >
>
>>

> >> > Boston Ma
> >> > >
> >> > > Keith Strehle wrote:
> >> > > Hey Shane, I just called Nutone. The told me to go
to
> >> > Radio Shack
> >> > > and pick up diode 1N4002 thru 1N4009. They said any of them
> >will
> >> > > work. I'll pick one up and let you know what happens.
> >> > >
> >> > > Keith
> >> > > 84FC35
> >> > >
> >> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3"
<sfedeli3@>
> >> > > wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Hi Keith,
> >> > > >
> >> > > > That same thing happened to me- I believe that it has
> >something
> >> > > to
> >> > > > do with the original door chime button being
an "insulated"
> >> > switch.
> >> > > > Most of the newer residential ones are mounted to wood
brick
> >> > molding
> >> > > > or a non-grounded aluminum screen door frame. In a
residential
> >> > > > application, this doesn't matter because the door frame is
not
> >> > > > grounded, so if the metal housing for a residential switch
> >> > contacts
> >> > > > the spring mechanism in the doorbell- nothing happens. On
our
> >> > > coaches,
> >> > > > however, this creates problems because the skin of the
coach
> >> > serves
> >> > > as
> >> > > > a ground and as soon as you attach to new doorbell, the
> >switch
> >> > > grounds
> >> > > > itself. Bluebird appears to have used an insulated switch
> >> > mechanism
> >> > > > where the spring does not contact the metal switch
housing.
> >I'd
> >> > like
> >> > > > to replace mine too, but it's not very high on the
priorities
> >> > list
> >> > > so
> >> > > > I did not pursue it. Please let us know if you find a
suitable
> >> > > > replacement.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Shane Fedeli
> >> > > > 85PT40
> >> > > > Hershey, PA
> >> > > >
> >> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
> >> > > > wrote:
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > It's a standard door bell switch from Home Depot. It
> >releases
> >> > > when
> >> > > > > you stop pushing. But even if you pushed it down and
held
> >it
> >> > > there
> >> > > > > the bell should stop ringing until you push it again.
> >Otherwise
> >> > > > > every kid in the hood would be taping your dooebell
button
> >> > down!
> >> > > > > It's a basic doorbell switch just like the one in my
house.
> >> > > There
> >> > > > > must be something else to this story. ?????????
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > Keith
> >> > > > > 84FC35
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory
OConnor"
> >> > > > > wrote:
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > Keith, Kevin is thinking you are using the wrong
switch.
> >You
> >> > > need a
> >> > > > > > momentary switch like the old starter buttons; the
moment
> >you
> >> > > push-
> >> > > > > > it makes contact, the moment you release- it loses
> >contact.
> >> > If
> >> > > the
> >> > > > > > doorbell button you are using now clicks when pushed,
it
> >may
> >> > > > > unclick
> >> > > > > > when pushed the second time. That would be a POPO
switch
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > I am looking for a door bell chime that rings like the
> >> > NewMoon
> >> > > > > > trailer in the LongLong Trailer movie.
> >> > > > > > GregoryO'Connor
> >> > > > > > 94PTRomolandCa
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith
Strehle"
> >> > > > > > wrote:
> >> > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > Okay, I got it. SPST = Single Pole Single Throw. A
SPST
> >> > > > > momentary
> >> > > > > > > switch returns to its normally open (off) position
when
> >you
> >> > > > > release
> >> > > > > > > the button. A standard doorbell switch. It doesn't
> >solve
> >> > the
> >> > > > > > problem
> >> > > > > > > (yet) but I know what it is now...
> >> > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > Thanks, Keith
> >> > > > > > > 84FC35
> >> > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@
wrote:
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > Are you sure it's a momentary, SPST push button
> >switch?
> >> > > What
> >> > > > > > > happens when
> >> > > > > > > > you disconnect both wires from the switch? Does
the
> >chime
> >> > > > > > stop?
> >> > > > > > > Touch the
> >> > > > > > > > wires together, does the chime turn on again? If
so,
> >your
> >> > > > > > switch
> >> > > > > > > is the wrong
> >> > > > > > > > type. Use a multimeter on the switch contacts, and
> >see
> >> > > what
> >> > > > > the
> >> > > > > > > switch does.
> >> > > > > > > > The switch could be grounded also, with one of the
> >poles
> >> > > > > being
> >> > > > > > > momentary
> >> > > > > > > > "on" and the other always "on" always and off when
> >pushed.
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > Kevin Mc
> >> > > > > > > > Yorba Linda, CA
> >> > > > > > > > 86 38 PT
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > ************************************** See what's
> >free at
> >> > > > > > > http://www.aol.com.
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]
> >> > > > > > > >
> >> > > > > > >
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > ---------------------------------
> >> > > Never miss an email again!
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> >it
> >> > out.
> >> > >
> >> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >> > >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> Don Bradner
> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> Eureka, CA
>