Florescent 12V Lights

[Stephen Birtles]

RGM is a full time business but not in lighting anymore they make high
end control systems for Yachts
Stephen 77fc35


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Lawrence"
wrote:
>
> I sent one of my florescents in to RGM over 3 weeks ago and still
> haven't gotten it back yet..hard to reach..must not be a fulltime
> business.
>
> Bob Lawrence
> 84 PT36
> Tacoma, Wa.
>
> > I am a new guy please bear with me. I have a question about the
> 12V
> > florescents in my 78FC. They say RGM Ind, Titusville, FL on the back.
> > The new Thin-lites won't fit the hole. I found the 12V florescent
> > rebuild in the files section (thanks), but where can I buy parts
> > (balast)? Thanks, Brad Bloxham, Yuma AZ.
> >
>

[kingmtpg]

I want to thank everyone for the help on the florescent lights.
Stephen, thanks for getting the Balast coming so quickly and for all
the other help.

Chuck, I am curious about your fix as well. Frys in my area is a
grocery store & I don't understand about lights being in scanners and
computer cases. I think I understand you are installing lights in the
old orgingal housing. Correct? Thanks Brad Bloxham 78FC Yuma, AZ
> >
> > Brad,
> >
> > I have a 79FC33SB As mine are failing I am replaceing them with
the
> > lights used in scanners and also computer cases.
> > Pros,
> > Easy to install I use glue
> > low power less than 1 amp
> > low cost 2 12" tubes with blast, wireing and tube protecters, 15$
at
> > Frys
> > good for 30K hours
> > for more light 2 sets can be installed in 1 housing
> > Cons
> > require warm up time 30 seconds to full brightness
> > light is a bright white
> >
> > My next project is to install them at the top of the bin doors.
this
> > will give me more light in the center of the coach, and I will
drill
> > holes to allow the light into the bins as well.
> >
> > Chuck
> > Port Angeles Wa.
> >

[brad barton]

In some areas, Fry's is the name of a big box computer/electronics store.


Brad Barton 00LXiDFW
bbartonwx@...





>From: "kingmtpg"
>Reply-To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Florescent 12V Lights
>Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2007 16:58:51 -0000
>

_________________________________________________________________
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[erniecarpet@...]

Ralph, I remember you had to do that fix so that my FC could even start.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Livingston, Mt
- lights on, lights off- that is all I'm capable of



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Good evening everyone:

While on the subject of ballasts/inverters and lighting, let's visit the
problem of what the largest cause of failure is. And that is low voltage to
begin with. If this is not looked into, the lights will light and bulbs
will still blacken on the ends way too early and the ballast/inverter will
fail again.

In the wire runs behind the covers at the back of the overhead
compartments, front and rear, the wire (large yellow 12 ga?) runs from the
circuit breaker to a plastic cannon plug. From there to the switch and thus
the lighting. I have found that the plastic cannon plug to be the problem,
so much so that the insulation around the wire becomes charred. These wires
carry alot of amperage and amperage equates to heat. As the pins in the
plug heat up the plastic of the holes in the plug expand, then contracts as
it cools. After a few years the pins the wires are attached to fail to make
a good contact and a low voltage problem then exists going to the lights. I
have by passed many of these plastic plugs by cutting the wire, adding a
length of wire and connect the main feed back to the lights. I have had to
cut back as much as 2 to 3 inches of wire to get back to good un tinned wire.

These plugs are on both sides and in the rear as well and another that
services the bath light fixtures. It is highly recommended that all of
these main power feed wires be checked, if for nothing else but safety reasons.



Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma

[Stephen Birtles]

or if you have a really old coach like my 77 no cannon plugs just a
billion butt connectors which need checking also
Stephen 77fc35


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Good evening everyone:
>
> While on the subject of ballasts/inverters and lighting, let's visit
the
> problem of what the largest cause of failure is. And that is low
voltage to
> begin with. If this is not looked into, the lights will light and bulbs
> will still blacken on the ends way too early and the
ballast/inverter will
> fail again.
>
> In the wire runs behind the covers at the back of the overhead
> compartments, front and rear, the wire (large yellow 12 ga?) runs
from the
> circuit breaker to a plastic cannon plug. From there to the switch
and thus
> the lighting. I have found that the plastic cannon plug to be the
problem,
> so much so that the insulation around the wire becomes charred.
These wires
> carry alot of amperage and amperage equates to heat. As the pins in the
> plug heat up the plastic of the holes in the plug expand, then
contracts as
> it cools. After a few years the pins the wires are attached to fail
to make
> a good contact and a low voltage problem then exists going to the
lights. I
> have by passed many of these plastic plugs by cutting the wire,
adding a
> length of wire and connect the main feed back to the lights. I have
had to
> cut back as much as 2 to 3 inches of wire to get back to good un
tinned wire.
>
> These plugs are on both sides and in the rear as well and another that
> services the bath light fixtures. It is highly recommended that all of
> these main power feed wires be checked, if for nothing else but
safety reasons.
>
>
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> 84FC35
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
>

[Bob & Carol Howald`]

>Ralph, You are so right. Low voltage will do them in. I do as we
used to do on the F-27 a/c years ago, I turn all the lights etc off
before I start the coach, after start everything can come back on
line. I never had a problem with burnt out or blackened bulbs. Don't
know if that help's or not but I do know you can really lower the
voltage if the start and house batteries are connected. We had a
single switch on the F-27 that turned the entire cabin electrical bus
off for start, too bad they don't have that on the motorhome.
Hope all is well with you and your's...Bob 93pt40--Illinois

>
> While on the subject of ballasts/inverters and lighting, let's
visit the
> problem of what the largest cause of failure is. And that is low
voltage to
> begin with. If this is not looked into, the lights will light and
bulbs
> will still blacken on the ends way too early and the
ballast/inverter will
> fail again.
>
> In the wire runs behind the covers at the back of the overhead
> compartments, front and rear, the wire (large yellow 12 ga?) runs
from the
> circuit breaker to a plastic cannon plug. From there to the switch
and thus
> the lighting. I have found that the plastic cannon plug to be the
problem,
> so much so that the insulation around the wire becomes charred.
These wires
> carry alot of amperage and amperage equates to heat. As the pins in
the
> plug heat up the plastic of the holes in the plug expand, then
contracts as
> it cools. After a few years the pins the wires are attached to fail
to make
> a good contact and a low voltage problem then exists going to the
lights. I
> have by passed many of these plastic plugs by cutting the wire,
adding a
> length of wire and connect the main feed back to the lights. I have
had to
> cut back as much as 2 to 3 inches of wire to get back to good un
tinned wire.
>
> These plugs are on both sides and in the rear as well and another
that
> services the bath light fixtures. It is highly recommended that all
of
> these main power feed wires be checked, if for nothing else but
safety reasons.
>
>
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> 84FC35
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
>