Propane Heater Removal

[akav8r]

I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the
help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list.

Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for
cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have
turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater,
removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding
the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw
from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the
heater will not budge from its place.

As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the
exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through
each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes
and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the
intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not
coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove
these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most
accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out.

Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't
understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for
sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be
there.

Once again THANKS in advance for any help.

Wendel, GA
82 FC35
"Momentary lapse of reason"

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Wendel:

Lets do a re think on how the heaters are removed. First of all, the heater
core comes out of the outer shell, in place. Put the 2 front screws back
into the outer shell attaching it to the floor. There are three of these
screws that hold the heater in place, the front two you have found and the
3rd is in the back of the outer shell and is removed after the insides are
pulled out.

Ok, you have the Lp line disconnected and the brass elbow going to the
unit removed, now remove the 5 control wires if hard wired or un plug the
connection if there is a plug. Suggestion? on a pad of paper, draw a
diagram of how your unit is wired, do not try to remember them, it won't
work, been there done that. Now then your ready to locate the 5 screws that
hold the inside of the unit to the out case. they are usually 1/4 inch
square head sheet metal screws. 4 of them will be pretty easy to find but
the 5th is harder, it is semi hidden back on the right side about 1/2 way
down and back deep, you will need an extension to get it out.

Re cap, LP line is disconnected, LP elbow is removed, wiring is un wired
and 5 screws are removed. now the unit is ready to slip out of the outer
casing. The screws you see from the out side intake and exhaust tubes are
not part of what you need. Now then those tubes from the burner plenum are
slipped into the compression rings of the outer tubes and may be rusted you
just have to use a little persuasion to move them.

Caution!!!!! This is a MUST remember and check. Those tubes MUST me slipped
back in when re assembling and they MUST slip into the outer tube a MINIMUM
of 2 1/4 inches. This keeps the CO2 out of your Coach. If the out side
tubes are rusted, replace them, no guess work, replace them.

You need a manual on Suburban heaters. Good luck

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Duncan, Oklahoma

At 01:31 AM 11/16/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the
>help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list.
>
>Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for
>cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have
>turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater,
>removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding
>the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw
>from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the
>heater will not budge from its place.
>
>As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the
>exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through
>each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes
>and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the
>intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not
>coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove
>these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most
>accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out.
>
>Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't
>understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for
>sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be
>there.
>
>Once again THANKS in advance for any help.
>
>Wendel, GA
>82 FC35
>"Momentary lapse of reason"
>
>

[dru penland]

Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the heater from
the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws exterior) from the outside and
pull the whole box in a nice working environment to work on. My problems with
removing only the core unit from the box were having ample clearance to pull the
innards without hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards,
etc. Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for the propane that would not remove
without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on mine has to be removed
to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one bed and the dinette, as I have
a rear bath model, and there would be no way to slide the unit out without
deconstructing the furnishings extensively.

My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers. Before
replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and placed a piece of
coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched it back together. These
insects had completely plugged my front heater rendering it inoperable.

I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year without heater
working. It's great to have them.

Regards,

akav8r wrote:
I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the
help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list.

Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for
cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have
turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater,
removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding
the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw
from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the
heater will not budge from its place.

As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the
exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through
each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes
and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the
intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not
coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove
these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most
accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out.

Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't
understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for
sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be
there.

Once again THANKS in advance for any help.

Wendel, GA
82 FC35
"Momentary lapse of reason"






Dru and Debora
Corpus Christi, TX
1983 FC 35 RB
Steady Gittin' It!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[William]

Hello,

We just purchased a 1983 FC 35 SB and are going through the same process. I
brought
the Bird to an RV Suburban dealer to have the propane system checked for safety.
This is
not something I trust myself with. At the same time I asked them to check out
the front
furnace. It was doing nothing. They got the blower spinning but no heat. They
told me
about 3 hours to remove and replace @$95/hour + parts. I told them No thanks.
(your can byu a new one for less $.

I have been told it may be the pc board. The older ones are "single set". That
is after one
fail they need to be reset or replaced. The newer boards give you three start
attempts
before they need to be reset or replaced.

I haven't got around to doing this yet. Hope this helps.

Let us know if you learn something different.

The following are answers are from the WOO forum regarding removal of the front
unit.
http://www.wanderlodge.us/members/showthread.php?t=51226&highlight=Suburban+fu
rnace

Bill,
There is no way to service the unit when it is installed. Everythjing is slipped
into the
case from the end. Three hours is a lot of time to get it out. On my 78 FC it is
under the
sliding couch. You take the vent off from the outside, then turn off the gas
(valve inline
near heater), unplug the connector,disconnect the gas line, remove the grill
from the kick
board under the couch, take out the two screws that hold the heater to the
floor, and lift
it out. Of course you are sliding the couch in and out to get access to the
various things.


I have worked through this problem in the past. It could be a number of items
including
the control board, or in my case; it was a wasp nest that had locked the
squirrel cage
blower to the housing stopping its rotation. No rotation - no air flow, no air
flow - a
safety switch will not release and the gas valve will not energize (good
thing!). If the
blower were working, we could give you several trouble shooting suggestions
prior to
pulling the heater - but if the unit has power and the thermostat is
closing....The only
course of action I can think of is to pull the heater, dissemble, check the
blower for
foreign materials and/or the control board for proper function.


Good, I can answer this one. 3 hours sound mighty high for a furnace cleaning
and
inspection. If your furnance is not firing up it most likely is the mother
board. Camping
World carries the replacement for this furnance for around $110 if you have the
Suburban NT16SW which is a common furnance. Me and a friend removed mine, I
cleaned it, drove 25 miles to get the part and had it installed in little over 3
hours. It is
not a difficult task, biggest problem I had was getting the outside exhaust
pipes from
under my trim work, this is where I needed the extra help. WD40 worked just
great to
slip it in & out under the trim. Suburban shows 2 mother boards for the furnance
either
one will work, but don't expect to call Suburban and get a response, won't
happen. I'm
still waiting. Reparing your furnance is a pretty simple job as long as you know
which
end of the screwdriver you hold. Just remember your furnance has been in your
coach for
over 20 years and it is dirty and as soon as you lift it out from under the sofa
it will drop
soot & rust all over the coach. Use common sence when it comes to propane &
electricity, AC/DC doesn't matter, spark & gas fumes equal a loud noise followed
by
intense hot flame, if you know what I mean. So cut off the gas and burn off any
extra
gas by lighting your cook top for a few minutes, then cut of electric power to
the coach.
Start by removing the outside exhaust vent pipes and then go inside and
disconnect
electric connections, insulate them amd then loosen gas line and remove all
srews
holding the furnance unit to the floor and duct work, remove the unit to a
better work
space and remove end and the unit will slide out of the metal casing. You can
test the
furnance outside the coach and furnance case with a 12 volt power source, you
should
hear the fan run for about 30 seconds and then hear a tick - tick sound, this
tick is the
sound of the ignighter lighting. Most parts are available and your furnance is
basically a
removeal and replace maintenance system. You see labels on the furnance reading
to be
serviced by a quailified service technician, a qualified service technician
knows how to
turn off the gas and disconnect the electricity before working on the system, so
don't let
that scare you but if it does all else find a used replacement on ebay from a
used rv parts
dealer for around $300. Good Luck, John


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dru penland wrote:
>
> Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the heater
from the
floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws exterior) from the outside and
pull the
whole box in a nice working environment to work on. My problems with removing
only
the core unit from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards
without
hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc. Also. mine
has 90-
degree fittings for the propane that would not remove without hitting the floor
of the
coach. This fitting, on mine has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft
heater is
under one bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would be
no way
to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings extensively.
>
> My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers. Before
replacing
my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and placed a piece of coarse
screen wire
between the two and sandwiched it back together. These insects had completely
plugged
my front heater rendering it inoperable.
>
> I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year without
heater
working. It's great to have them.
>
> Regards,
>
> akav8r wrote:
> I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the
> help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list.
>
> Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for
> cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have
> turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater,
> removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding
> the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw
> from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the
> heater will not budge from its place.
>
> As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the
> exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through
> each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes
> and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the
> intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not
> coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove
> these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most
> accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't
> understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for
> sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be
> there.
>
> Once again THANKS in advance for any help.
>
> Wendel, GA
> 82 FC35
> "Momentary lapse of reason"
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dru and Debora
> Corpus Christi, TX
> 1983 FC 35 RB
> Steady Gittin' It!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Hi Dru:

I agree with you, it is nice to do that, if the rear screw was not
installed or the heater had been removed once before and the rear screw not
re installed. Other wise, with that screw there, one needs a crowbar to pry
the rear of the heater out.

The easiest one to remove is the galley unit in most cases and the one to
do first so you know first hand what needs be done.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Duncan, Oklahoma

At 05:02 AM 11/16/2007 -0800, you wrote:
>Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the heater
>from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws exterior) from the
>outside and pull the whole box in a nice working environment to work on.
>My problems with removing only the core unit from the box were having
>ample clearance to pull the innards without hitting other items on the way
>out such as carpet tack boards, etc. Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for
>the propane that would not remove without hitting the floor of the coach.
>This fitting, on mine has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft
>heater is under one bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and
>there would be no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the
>furnishings extensively.
>
> My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers. Before
> replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and placed a
> piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched it back
> together. These insects had completely plugged my front heater rendering
> it inoperable.
>
> I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year without
> heater working. It's great to have them.
>
> Regards,
>
>akav8r wrote:
> I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase. THANKS to the
>help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do list.
>
>Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for
>cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have
>turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater,
>removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws holding
>the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center screw
>from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still the
>heater will not budge from its place.
>
>As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the
>exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through
>each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the tubes
>and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the
>intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not
>coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove
>these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most
>accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out.
>
>Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't
>understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know for
>sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be
>there.
>
>Once again THANKS in advance for any help.
>
>Wendel, GA
>82 FC35
>"Momentary lapse of reason"
>
>
>
>
>

[pattypape]

Hey Dru,

Good tip on adding the screening,

This is better than the $20 screen covers sold at
RV supply stores.

Bill 88 FC Michigan

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dru penland
wrote:
>
> Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the
heater from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws
exterior) from the outside and pull the whole box in a nice working
environment to work on. My problems with removing only the core unit
from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards without
hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc.
Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for the propane that would not
remove without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on mine
has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one
bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would be
no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings
extensively.
>
> My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers.
Before replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and
placed a piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched
it back together. These insects had completely plugged my front
heater rendering it inoperable.
>
> I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year
without heater working. It's great to have them.
>
> Regards,
>
> akav8r wrote:
> I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase.
THANKS to the
> help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do
list.
>
> Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for
> cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have
> turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater,
> removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws
holding
> the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center
screw
> from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still
the
> heater will not budge from its place.
>
> As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the
> exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through
> each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the
tubes
> and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the
> intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not
> coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove
> these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most
> accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't
> understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know
for
> sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be
> there.
>
> Once again THANKS in advance for any help.
>
> Wendel, GA
> 82 FC35
> "Momentary lapse of reason"
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dru and Debora
> Corpus Christi, TX
> 1983 FC 35 RB
> Steady Gittin' It!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[dru penland]

Hey Ralph,

I love the idea that this forum allows free discussion and I'm not sure where
I would be with my project coach without it. I see your going to be present for
the November LSB rally. I can't wait to me you and the others I've been writing
with...in a coach with working heat, lol! Maybe I can get away without the space
heaters this time.

As for the looks of my ol' bird, well I might get to win a prize this time for
the ugliest. I'm hoping to work on the exterior in the future. I think she likes
her new owners and the TLC I'm giving. She's been good, so I'm hoping she gets a
new gennie door from Santa this Christmas. The present one is pretty ruff and
rusted.

I hope the turn out for the rally is as good as the list looks.See you there
and safe travels to you and yours!

Dru


Dru and Debora
Corpus Christi, TX
1983 FC 35 RB
Steady Gittin' It!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dru penland]

Oh NO! I hope I don't get hit with patent infringement! I didn't know there was
a fix. We have a real wasp problem. I found out this year that my oldest son is
extremely allergic to the darn things. Thanks to goodness Benadryl works!

Dru
1983fc35rb

pattypape wrote:

Hey Dru,

Good tip on adding the screening,

This is better than the $20 screen covers sold at
RV supply stores.

Bill 88 FC Michigan

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dru penland
wrote:
>
> Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew the
heater from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws
exterior) from the outside and pull the whole box in a nice working
environment to work on. My problems with removing only the core unit
from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards without
hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc.
Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for the propane that would not
remove without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on mine
has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one
bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would be
no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings
extensively.
>
> My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers.
Before replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and
placed a piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched
it back together. These insects had completely plugged my front
heater rendering it inoperable.
>
> I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year
without heater working. It's great to have them.
>
> Regards,
>
> akav8r wrote:
> I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase.
THANKS to the
> help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do
list.
>
> Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3) for
> cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I have
> turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the heater,
> removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws
holding
> the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center
screw
> from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still
the
> heater will not budge from its place.
>
> As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from the
> exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding through
> each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the
tubes
> and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the
> intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not
> coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to remove
> these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is most
> accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't
> understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know
for
> sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even be
> there.
>
> Once again THANKS in advance for any help.
>
> Wendel, GA
> 82 FC35
> "Momentary lapse of reason"
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dru and Debora
> Corpus Christi, TX
> 1983 FC 35 RB
> Steady Gittin' It!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






Dru and Debora
Corpus Christi, TX
1983 FC 35 RB
Steady Gittin' It!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[bubblerboy64]

Dru, If your son is allergic to wasp or bee stings DO NOT screw
around with local remedies. There is a world of difference between
the local reaction which we all get from a bee sting to what happens
in a person with a true allergic reaction. Benadryl may NOT work
next time. You best discuss this with your MD if you have not
already. People go into true anaphylactic reactions from bee stings
and the truly allergic often carry epinephrine to administer if
stung. This is serious territory and I am certain there are others on
the list who will ditto my comments here. For some one who is not
allergic most any topical will help. If your boy is allergic putting
any topical on a bee sting would be like trying to put out a forest
fire by urination on it.

Sorry to be off topic but bee stings are potentially life
threatening.

John Heckman DDS
central Pa
1973 FC











>
> Oh NO! I hope I don't get hit with patent infringement! I didn't
know there was a fix. We have a real wasp problem. I found out this
year that my oldest son is extremely allergic to the darn things.
Thanks to goodness Benadryl works!
>
> Dru
> 1983fc35rb
>
> pattypape wrote:
>
> Hey Dru,
>
> Good tip on adding the screening,
>
> This is better than the $20 screen covers sold at
> RV supply stores.
>
> Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dru penland
> wrote:
> >
> > Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew
the
> heater from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws
> exterior) from the outside and pull the whole box in a nice working
> environment to work on. My problems with removing only the core
unit
> from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards
without
> hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc.
> Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for the propane that would not
> remove without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on
mine
> has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one
> bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would
be
> no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings
> extensively.
> >
> > My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers.
> Before replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and
> placed a piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched
> it back together. These insects had completely plugged my front
> heater rendering it inoperable.
> >
> > I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year
> without heater working. It's great to have them.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > akav8r wrote:
> > I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase.
> THANKS to the
> > help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do
> list.
> >
> > Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3)
for
> > cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I
have
> > turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the
heater,
> > removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws
> holding
> > the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center
> screw
> > from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still
> the
> > heater will not budge from its place.
> >
> > As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from
the
> > exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding
through
> > each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the
> tubes
> > and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the
> > intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not
> > coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to
remove
> > these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is
most
> > accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out.
> >
> > Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't
> > understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know
> for
> > sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even
be
> > there.
> >
> > Once again THANKS in advance for any help.
> >
> > Wendel, GA
> > 82 FC35
> > "Momentary lapse of reason"
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Dru and Debora
> > Corpus Christi, TX
> > 1983 FC 35 RB
> > Steady Gittin' It!
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dru and Debora
> Corpus Christi, TX
> 1983 FC 35 RB
> Steady Gittin' It!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[dru penland]

I do appreciate that information. They hurt me, but he gets a bit more reaction
out of it. The yellow jackets have been thick this year. Don't know what the
deal is, but they have sure found some good places to hide this year. Some of
the nests have been so huge I wonder if they have been under construction for
more than one season.

Next time we have a scheduled Dr. appointment, I'm going to ask. Hate to be on
a good trip somewhere and have one of there attacks.

Thanks,

Dru
83fc35rb

bubblerboy64 wrote:
Dru, If your son is allergic to wasp or bee stings DO NOT screw
around with local remedies. There is a world of difference between
the local reaction which we all get from a bee sting to what happens
in a person with a true allergic reaction. Benadryl may NOT work
next time. You best discuss this with your MD if you have not
already. People go into true anaphylactic reactions from bee stings
and the truly allergic often carry epinephrine to administer if
stung. This is serious territory and I am certain there are others on
the list who will ditto my comments here. For some one who is not
allergic most any topical will help. If your boy is allergic putting
any topical on a bee sting would be like trying to put out a forest
fire by urination on it.

Sorry to be off topic but bee stings are potentially life
threatening.

John Heckman DDS
central Pa
1973 FC

>
> Oh NO! I hope I don't get hit with patent infringement! I didn't
know there was a fix. We have a real wasp problem. I found out this
year that my oldest son is extremely allergic to the darn things.
Thanks to goodness Benadryl works!
>
> Dru
> 1983fc35rb
>
> pattypape wrote:
>
> Hey Dru,
>
> Good tip on adding the screening,
>
> This is better than the $20 screen covers sold at
> RV supply stores.
>
> Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dru penland
> wrote:
> >
> > Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew
the
> heater from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws
> exterior) from the outside and pull the whole box in a nice working
> environment to work on. My problems with removing only the core
unit
> from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards
without
> hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc.
> Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for the propane that would not
> remove without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on
mine
> has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one
> bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would
be
> no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings
> extensively.
> >
> > My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers.
> Before replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and
> placed a piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched
> it back together. These insects had completely plugged my front
> heater rendering it inoperable.
> >
> > I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year
> without heater working. It's great to have them.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > akav8r wrote:
> > I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase.
> THANKS to the
> > help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do
> list.
> >
> > Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3)
for
> > cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I
have
> > turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the
heater,
> > removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws
> holding
> > the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center
> screw
> > from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still
> the
> > heater will not budge from its place.
> >
> > As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from
the
> > exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding
through
> > each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the
> tubes
> > and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the
> > intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not
> > coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to
remove
> > these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is
most
> > accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out.
> >
> > Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't
> > understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know
> for
> > sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even
be
> > there.
> >
> > Once again THANKS in advance for any help.
> >
> > Wendel, GA
> > 82 FC35
> > "Momentary lapse of reason"
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Dru and Debora
> > Corpus Christi, TX
> > 1983 FC 35 RB
> > Steady Gittin' It!
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dru and Debora
> Corpus Christi, TX
> 1983 FC 35 RB
> Steady Gittin' It!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






Dru and Debora
Corpus Christi, TX
1983 FC 35 RB
Steady Gittin' It!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]