Alcoa Wheels

[Jon]

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"
wrote:
>
> Well I have them home. They're nice but of course not like new and
not
> polished the why a proud BB's owner would like them. I
> started "working" on one of them and I just don't think I have it
in me
> to do four of them. I suppose it I have to do it myself I will but
> does anyone know of a professional wheel shop or a way to have them
> done professionally. A location in the Pa Maryland area would be
> helpful since shipping could get pricy. I searched on the net and
only
> found a place in BC which out of reach.
>
> John Heckman
> central Pa
> 1973 FC
>
John I would use the yellow pages for truck tires and rims. We have
a place over in tacoma that deals in truck tires and I noticed that
they also had rims. I observered a guy in the tire bay polishing
rims and so that is why I said you could contact a large tire outfit
that handles truck tires in your area. Jon

[Gardner Yeaw]

John,
I worked my fingers to the bone, wore out my 3/8 drill I have had
for 40 years, and the wheels are far from done. Mine are probably
like yours, lots of pits. Find a pro, that is what I will probably
do after correcting the other things on my coach. See you at Maxton.

Gardner
78FC33

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"
wrote:
>
> Thanks Shane, I'll check both of those out Monday. My fingers and
> hands are sore from my efforts. Not a good thing for my day job. I
> would have to start with something a lot more aggressive then 400
or
> I would attempt it. So considering the point at which I am
starting
> and the results I would like to have I better get some help. Same
> ole story know your limits. The wheels are decent but there are
some
> pits. I actually think from what I've been able to find on the
web
> that the professionals turn them on a lathe to start. That would
be
> about the only why I could see doing this from a practical stand
> point. Probably only have to take a couple thousands off but
that's a
> lot of sanding. I tried a couple things using an drill and that
was
> too aggressive and too difficult to get a smooth result. Just too
> much to do it by hand for me. I did start on the worst one I
think
> but still my best bet is to farm this one out. Thanks and I'll
make
> some calls Monday and let ya know. Looking forward to the run to
> Maxton in a ten days.
> John Heckman
> central Pa
> 1973 FC
> >
> > Hi John,
> >
> > There is a guy on Carlisle Pike off I-81 behind the strip
club
> that
> > does them at odd times. If you stop by one of the garages at the
> > flying hook or TA they can tell you more. I had a fun time doing
> mine
> > with wet sandpaper. Started at 400 or 600 grit and worked up to
1500
> > or 2000 grit and finally a buffing wheel on a mechanical buffer.
> Still
> > was not as good as a pro can get them with the right tools and
> > attachments. They probably know where to get them done at the
John
> > Wayne chrome shop down at Greencastle too.
> >
> > Shane Fedeli
> > 85PT40
> > Hershey, PA
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Well I have them home. They're nice but of course not like new
> and not
> > > polished the why a proud BB's owner would like them. I
> > > started "working" on one of them and I just don't think I have
it
> in me
> > > to do four of them. I suppose it I have to do it myself I
will
> but
> > > does anyone know of a professional wheel shop or a way to have
> them
> > > done professionally. A location in the Pa Maryland area would
be
> > > helpful since shipping could get pricy. I searched on the net
> and only
> > > found a place in BC which out of reach.
> > >
> > > John Heckman
> > > central Pa
> > > 1973 FC
> > >
> >
>

[bubblerboy64]

Gardner, I found a couple sights on the web which show how it's
done. One is VIS Wheel Polishing and Refinishing. There is a neat
video on their sight. Apparently there are machines which handle it
easily. Some you don't even have to take the tire off the wheel. I
will make some calls tomorrow and see if there is a local outfit
don't it. My wheels are not that bad but it's still entirely too much
to do (for me). Sounds like it will cost about $50 a wheel and that
seems entirely reasonable considering how sore my fingers are from
what would be just a start on one of mine. I'll see what I can come
up with. This neck of the woods is just filled with truck terminals
and such. Should be something around this part of Pa. Shane gave me a
couple leads. I'll keep you informed.

John Heckman
central Pa
1973 FC




>
> John,
> I worked my fingers to the bone, wore out my 3/8 drill I have
had
> for 40 years, and the wheels are far from done. Mine are probably
> like yours, lots of pits. Find a pro, that is what I will probably
> do after correcting the other things on my coach. See you at Maxton.
>
> Gardner
> 78FC33
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Shane, I'll check both of those out Monday. My fingers
and
> > hands are sore from my efforts. Not a good thing for my day job.
I
> > would have to start with something a lot more aggressive then 400
> or
> > I would attempt it. So considering the point at which I am
> starting
> > and the results I would like to have I better get some help.
Same
> > ole story know your limits. The wheels are decent but there are
> some
> > pits. I actually think from what I've been able to find on the
> web
> > that the professionals turn them on a lathe to start. That would
> be
> > about the only why I could see doing this from a practical stand
> > point. Probably only have to take a couple thousands off but
> that's a
> > lot of sanding. I tried a couple things using an drill and that
> was
> > too aggressive and too difficult to get a smooth result. Just too
> > much to do it by hand for me. I did start on the worst one I
> think
> > but still my best bet is to farm this one out. Thanks and I'll
> make
> > some calls Monday and let ya know. Looking forward to the run to
> > Maxton in a ten days.
> > John Heckman
> > central Pa
> > 1973 FC
> > >
> > > Hi John,
> > >
> > > There is a guy on Carlisle Pike off I-81 behind the strip
> club
> > that
> > > does them at odd times. If you stop by one of the garages at the
> > > flying hook or TA they can tell you more. I had a fun time
doing
> > mine
> > > with wet sandpaper. Started at 400 or 600 grit and worked up to
> 1500
> > > or 2000 grit and finally a buffing wheel on a mechanical
buffer.
> > Still
> > > was not as good as a pro can get them with the right tools and
> > > attachments. They probably know where to get them done at the
> John
> > > Wayne chrome shop down at Greencastle too.
> > >
> > > Shane Fedeli
> > > 85PT40
> > > Hershey, PA
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"

> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Well I have them home. They're nice but of course not like
new
> > and not
> > > > polished the why a proud BB's owner would like them. I
> > > > started "working" on one of them and I just don't think I
have
> it
> > in me
> > > > to do four of them. I suppose it I have to do it myself I
> will
> > but
> > > > does anyone know of a professional wheel shop or a way to
have
> > them
> > > > done professionally. A location in the Pa Maryland area
would
> be
> > > > helpful since shipping could get pricy. I searched on the
net
> > and only
> > > > found a place in BC which out of reach.
> > > >
> > > > John Heckman
> > > > central Pa
> > > > 1973 FC
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[Gregory OConnor]

Alumniunm is shiney if it is flat. scratches interrupt reflection
and hold dirt. That is why it is best to remove pits and big
scratches with wet sandpaper then remove sanding marks with finer
(higher number grit) sand paper then polish the flat shine back into
the metal with a wheel. If you have wax on the rim road grime will
not touch the metal and the wax will protect the rim from
oxidation. When the rim needs a touch up it is important to remove
the wax fist with laundry soap so you wont be loading up the polish
compound grit with wax.

Now that my wheels are polished I wash off the wax; rub mothers
brand compound in; then clean the mothers off with a onestep
cleaner/wax. That keeps the mothers looking good.

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa




--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"
wrote:
>
> Gardner, I found a couple sights on the web which show how it's
> done. One is VIS Wheel Polishing and Refinishing. There is a neat
> video on their sight. Apparently there are machines which handle
it
> easily. Some you don't even have to take the tire off the wheel.
I
> will make some calls tomorrow and see if there is a local outfit
> don't it. My wheels are not that bad but it's still entirely too
much
> to do (for me). Sounds like it will cost about $50 a wheel and
that
> seems entirely reasonable considering how sore my fingers are from
> what would be just a start on one of mine. I'll see what I can
come
> up with. This neck of the woods is just filled with truck
terminals
> and such. Should be something around this part of Pa. Shane gave
me a
> couple leads. I'll keep you informed.
>
> John Heckman
> central Pa
> 1973 FC
>
>
>
>
> >
> > John,
> > I worked my fingers to the bone, wore out my 3/8 drill I have
> had
> > for 40 years, and the wheels are far from done. Mine are
probably
> > like yours, lots of pits. Find a pro, that is what I will
probably
> > do after correcting the other things on my coach. See you at
Maxton.
> >
> > Gardner
> > 78FC33
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"

> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Shane, I'll check both of those out Monday. My fingers
> and
> > > hands are sore from my efforts. Not a good thing for my day
job.
> I
> > > would have to start with something a lot more aggressive then
400
> > or
> > > I would attempt it. So considering the point at which I am
> > starting
> > > and the results I would like to have I better get some help.
> Same
> > > ole story know your limits. The wheels are decent but there
are
> > some
> > > pits. I actually think from what I've been able to find on
the
> > web
> > > that the professionals turn them on a lathe to start. That
would
> > be
> > > about the only why I could see doing this from a practical
stand
> > > point. Probably only have to take a couple thousands off but
> > that's a
> > > lot of sanding. I tried a couple things using an drill and
that
> > was
> > > too aggressive and too difficult to get a smooth result. Just
too
> > > much to do it by hand for me. I did start on the worst one I
> > think
> > > but still my best bet is to farm this one out. Thanks and
I'll
> > make
> > > some calls Monday and let ya know. Looking forward to the run
to
> > > Maxton in a ten days.
> > > John Heckman
> > > central Pa
> > > 1973 FC
> > > >
> > > > Hi John,
> > > >
> > > > There is a guy on Carlisle Pike off I-81 behind the strip
> > club
> > > that
> > > > does them at odd times. If you stop by one of the garages at
the
> > > > flying hook or TA they can tell you more. I had a fun time
> doing
> > > mine
> > > > with wet sandpaper. Started at 400 or 600 grit and worked up
to
> > 1500
> > > > or 2000 grit and finally a buffing wheel on a mechanical
> buffer.
> > > Still
> > > > was not as good as a pro can get them with the right tools
and
> > > > attachments. They probably know where to get them done at
the
> > John
> > > > Wayne chrome shop down at Greencastle too.
> > > >
> > > > Shane Fedeli
> > > > 85PT40
> > > > Hershey, PA
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"
>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Well I have them home. They're nice but of course not like
> new
> > > and not
> > > > > polished the why a proud BB's owner would like them. I
> > > > > started "working" on one of them and I just don't think I
> have
> > it
> > > in me
> > > > > to do four of them. I suppose it I have to do it myself I
> > will
> > > but
> > > > > does anyone know of a professional wheel shop or a way to
> have
> > > them
> > > > > done professionally. A location in the Pa Maryland area
> would
> > be
> > > > > helpful since shipping could get pricy. I searched on the
> net
> > > and only
> > > > > found a place in BC which out of reach.
> > > > >
> > > > > John Heckman
> > > > > central Pa
> > > > > 1973 FC
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[bubblerboy64]

I found a place in Carlisle Pa which does the VIS process. Let you
know how it works out for me. The video looks inpressive.
John Heckman
central Pa
1973 FC




>
> Alumniunm is shiney if it is flat. scratches interrupt reflection
> and hold dirt. That is why it is best to remove pits and big
> scratches with wet sandpaper then remove sanding marks with finer
> (higher number grit) sand paper then polish the flat shine back
into
> the metal with a wheel. If you have wax on the rim road grime will
> not touch the metal and the wax will protect the rim from
> oxidation. When the rim needs a touch up it is important to remove
> the wax fist with laundry soap so you wont be loading up the polish
> compound grit with wax.
>
> Now that my wheels are polished I wash off the wax; rub mothers
> brand compound in; then clean the mothers off with a onestep
> cleaner/wax. That keeps the mothers looking good.
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"
> wrote:
> >
> > Gardner, I found a couple sights on the web which show how it's
> > done. One is VIS Wheel Polishing and Refinishing. There is a
neat
> > video on their sight. Apparently there are machines which handle
> it
> > easily. Some you don't even have to take the tire off the wheel.
> I
> > will make some calls tomorrow and see if there is a local outfit
> > don't it. My wheels are not that bad but it's still entirely too
> much
> > to do (for me). Sounds like it will cost about $50 a wheel and
> that
> > seems entirely reasonable considering how sore my fingers are
from
> > what would be just a start on one of mine. I'll see what I can
> come
> > up with. This neck of the woods is just filled with truck
> terminals
> > and such. Should be something around this part of Pa. Shane gave
> me a
> > couple leads. I'll keep you informed.
> >
> > John Heckman
> > central Pa
> > 1973 FC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > John,
> > > I worked my fingers to the bone, wore out my 3/8 drill I
have
> > had
> > > for 40 years, and the wheels are far from done. Mine are
> probably
> > > like yours, lots of pits. Find a pro, that is what I will
> probably
> > > do after correcting the other things on my coach. See you at
> Maxton.
> > >
> > > Gardner
> > > 78FC33
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"
>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks Shane, I'll check both of those out Monday. My
fingers
> > and
> > > > hands are sore from my efforts. Not a good thing for my day
> job.
> > I
> > > > would have to start with something a lot more aggressive then
> 400
> > > or
> > > > I would attempt it. So considering the point at which I am
> > > starting
> > > > and the results I would like to have I better get some help.
> > Same
> > > > ole story know your limits. The wheels are decent but there
> are
> > > some
> > > > pits. I actually think from what I've been able to find on
> the
> > > web
> > > > that the professionals turn them on a lathe to start. That
> would
> > > be
> > > > about the only why I could see doing this from a practical
> stand
> > > > point. Probably only have to take a couple thousands off but
> > > that's a
> > > > lot of sanding. I tried a couple things using an drill and
> that
> > > was
> > > > too aggressive and too difficult to get a smooth result. Just
> too
> > > > much to do it by hand for me. I did start on the worst one I
> > > think
> > > > but still my best bet is to farm this one out. Thanks and
> I'll
> > > make
> > > > some calls Monday and let ya know. Looking forward to the run
> to
> > > > Maxton in a ten days.
> > > > John Heckman
> > > > central Pa
> > > > 1973 FC
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi John,
> > > > >
> > > > > There is a guy on Carlisle Pike off I-81 behind the
strip
> > > club
> > > > that
> > > > > does them at odd times. If you stop by one of the garages
at
> the
> > > > > flying hook or TA they can tell you more. I had a fun time
> > doing
> > > > mine
> > > > > with wet sandpaper. Started at 400 or 600 grit and worked
up
> to
> > > 1500
> > > > > or 2000 grit and finally a buffing wheel on a mechanical
> > buffer.
> > > > Still
> > > > > was not as good as a pro can get them with the right tools
> and
> > > > > attachments. They probably know where to get them done at
> the
> > > John
> > > > > Wayne chrome shop down at Greencastle too.
> > > > >
> > > > > Shane Fedeli
> > > > > 85PT40
> > > > > Hershey, PA
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "bubblerboy64"
> >
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Well I have them home. They're nice but of course not
like
> > new
> > > > and not
> > > > > > polished the why a proud BB's owner would like them. I
> > > > > > started "working" on one of them and I just don't think I
> > have
> > > it
> > > > in me
> > > > > > to do four of them. I suppose it I have to do it myself
I
> > > will
> > > > but
> > > > > > does anyone know of a professional wheel shop or a way to
> > have
> > > > them
> > > > > > done professionally. A location in the Pa Maryland area
> > would
> > > be
> > > > > > helpful since shipping could get pricy. I searched on
the
> > net
> > > > and only
> > > > > > found a place in BC which out of reach.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > John Heckman
> > > > > > central Pa
> > > > > > 1973 FC
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>