Doghouse Insulation

[Jeff Miller]

I've used 3M-77 spray contact adheasive, held for the 6years I had
the coach, a couple of years since. Cleaned it with a putty-knife,
very little remaining, made the doghouse cover (top part) in one
piece so that it holds itself pretty well. The contact adheasive has
to be applied properly, and the foam soaks it up so the foam side has
to be applied liberally, if you do it wrong I'm sure it will fail.

Others have used 3M-90, a stronger version, probably a good idea.

I also applied one to a doghouse which was the pressure-sensitive
backing, stuck very well. Clean the surface first for best results.

Another FC I had I applied a lead quilted product, very expensive and
very heavy, it needed to be mechanically fastened which worked well
as the lead inner layer keeps its shape between fasteners. I drilled
the fasteners through from the carpet side before carpeting, the flat
sheet-metal plates hide well under there.

I feel that all methods work if properly prepared/used, I've had no
failures. Just like painting, prep is the most important step.

- Jeff Miller
in Holland, MI


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen H" <share@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Group- I know there is always discussion in this topic, I have
> reviewed the threads. I just reviewed the link to John Finn's 1982
> doghouse insulation. I cannot seem to find a common method of
> application. Do you use the spray glue? Or just apply directly. I
> received the insulation from Stephen Birtles. It seems very sticky.
Do
> most cut a template out of paper or cardboard, and then cut out the
> insulation? Or is it wise to cut the insulation to fit? The top
part
> of the house seems to be the most challenging, around the curved
top
> areas, where the 2 pieces split. Is it wise to add some fender
washers
> after the insulation is on to keep it there?
> Thank you
> Stephen
> 81 FC-33SB
> Plant City,FL
>