What is a good diesel fuel additive

[Scott]

Chris, John's advice on the money. Use the Bio-Bor. You can add
different amounts, one to "shock it" and kill the algae, and then a
maintenance amount when you add fuel. WORD TO THE WISE, if you start
this program it is good to have several primary Racor filters on
hand, the dead algae can/will clog the filter and it can be costly if
you do not have the spares to change. Simple fix if you do.

The coolant issue is another story as well and once again John is
giving you great advice. Many folks simply test their coolant for PH
and let it go at that. The REAL motor damage happens when the
nitrites and nitrates get out of line and cavitation happens inside
the motor (around corners, and in tight spots) around the cooling
veins inside the motor. Testing with Nitrite and Nitrate strips will
tell you what to do (how much additive). The PH is generally thought
as an indicator as when to change coolant, NOT keep the cavitation
from happening. I have seen PROP BURN (boat motors) where the
cavitation has completely destroyed (eaten through) a stainless steel
propeller. It can be very harmful if left go, not to mention
expensive.

ScottB
86FC35
SC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Chris"
wrote:
>
> The 83 FC35 I purchased had set for some time with a full 265 of
diesel
> fuel. Should I use any kind of additive to kill any possible algea
or
> other contaminate? I replaced the Racor filter and I am still
trying to
> get the filter on the engine off. I have noticed alot more pick up
> since the Racor change. I have been driving once a week about 20
miles
> and all seems ok. Sometimes it is a little hard to start though. My
> manual says not to hold the starter for more than 30 seconds..Is it
> common to take up to 30 seconds to crank? The most I have had to
hold
> it is anywhere from right away to maybe 7 seconds...
> Also, any recomendations for a coolant additive? I am not using the
CAT
> coolant at this time.
> Thanks
> Chris Reed
> 83 FC35 SB
> Plant City, FL.
>