Over heating -- followup and question

[Tom Warner]

Touchy subject Kevin..changing the R12 system to R134a. If you can
do the work yourself its cheap. I have done 2 coaches so far and
several of my cars and both BB put out really cold air (39-40 degrees).

The cheap way. If your compressor is good, remove it and dump the oil
and replace with pag oil. Change the hose fittings from R12 to
R134a. Change the drier and expansion valve and then recharge with
R134a (about 80% of the R12 weight on your tag)..

The best way: Buy a new or reman compressor for R134a ( it will have
the correct R134a fittings), put the appropriate amount of oil in the
drier and compressor, button it up and charge with 80% of the R12
weight shown in your owners manual. About $300.

Tom Warner
Vernon Center,NY
1985 PT 40 (not done yet)


At 06:35 PM 9/8/2006, you wrote:
>Pete,
>
> From what I've heard, the chassis (coach) air is very efficient,
> and does in
>fact put out quite a bit of cold air when it is working. Most BB owners
>find using the genset and the roof (or basement) airs when their
>coach air quits
>working, and rarely get it fixed (due to the cost of freon and cost of
>converting to R134) being satisfied with the genset/110v A/C units.
>
>If your system is R134, and seems to hold a charge, I'd without a doubt, try
>to use the chassis air before having to use the genset route. Unless I can
>find someone to convert my old R12 (freon) chassis air to R134 for next to
>nothing, I'll continue to use the genset route in lieu of my
>non-working chassis
> AC, but it would sure be nice to have the old chassis air working.
>
>Can't help you with the potential leak areas...lots of hoses, connectors,
>dryers, evaporators, etc., that could be a possible culprit. I
>wouldn't check
>for leaks until I knew for sure it's leaking!! What did the radiator shop
>recommend?
>
>Kevin McKeown
>Yorba Linda, CA
>86 38 PT
>
>
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