Water Heater

[Stephen Birtles]

Force 10 works well also and is les expensive than seaward and we got them
Stephen 77fc35


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@... wrote:
>
> I just went through this a few weeks ago (third time in 6 yrs).
Before you
> go through the R&R of the water heater, just make sure all of your
fittings
> are tight and secure. If the fittings aren't leaking, check the
T&P valve on
> the water heater (pressure release valve)...make sure it isn't
dripping.
>
> If you have determined that it is the water heater, time to change
it out.
> Either Atwood, or Seaward brands work well...Seaward is cheaper by
over a
> hundred bucks....corrosion is the culprit in the tanks...aluminum.
Seaward now
> replaces the drain spigot with a magnesium anode, and they claim
that the
> anode gets eaten away, not the tank...drawback....tough to drain the
tank
> without a drain spigot....something to consider when you are trying
to remove a
> water heater weighing around a hundred pounds from a place with VERY
limited
> working room.
>
> Use the stainless braided hoses when re-attaching the hoses...lots
easier to
> connect...also, make sure that the area where the heater goes is
completely
> dried out from the leak. Mold can grow quickly, and you'll never
get that
> musty smell to go away. I spray the area with a mixture of bleach
and water,
> and let it dry with the help of a little 110v muffin fan for a few
days or so.
> Make sure that the power is turned off when working back there with
the
> wiring, and keep lots of towels handy to soak up the coolant (heat
exchanger)
> and water when removing the hoses.
>
> I hope a FC is easier than my PT...I swore to my wife this last time
that
> the BB is going to be sold if my new water heater leaks, instead of
having to
> go through the headache of removing the water heater again (I went
with the
> anode, not the drain valve...that sucker is heavy!)
>
> Good luck....been there, done that (a few times).
>
> Kevin McKeown
> Yorba Linda, CA
> 1986 38' Pt
>
>
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>