Constant Door Chime

[Don Bradner]

The first item in the Nutone online FAQ is:

What is the small electronic part that comes with the LA-52WH?

It is a diode that needs to be put across the button that connects to the front
terminals. The diode is polarized. If it does not work when first installed,
then reverse the diode.


On 4/5/2007 at 4:24 PM Keith Strehle wrote:

>The Nutone tech support person said to "attach" the diode to the
>terminals. No mention of polarity? I'm going to wrap the diode
>wires around the terminal screws, hook it up and see what happen. If
>it doesn't work, I'm out $2.59....
>
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@...>
>wrote:
>>
>> Hi Keith,
>>
>> Mine is 12V like yours. Are you saying to solder the diode between
>> the two contacts on the back of the new switch? What polarity is
>> recommended? Sounds like an easy fix and I already have a really
>nice
>> bronze switch to try out.
>>
>> -Shane Fedeli
>> 85PT40
>> Hershey, PA
>>
>> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Mine does not have batteries in it. But it still works from the
>> > button on the unit. Actually, it works fine from the remote
>button,
>> > except that it won't stop. The folks at Nutone said to attach
>the
>> > diode on the button teminals then attach the wires and it should
>> > work. The diodes are availabble at Radio Shack. Only problem is
>> > they come 25 to a package. The good news is they are $2.59 per
>> > package. So, if you or anyone else needs a door bell diode....
>> >
>> > Keith
>> > 84FC35
>> >
>> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, James Harvie
>> > wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Keith. Not sure if this will help you but, I got courious with
>all
>> > this door chime talk, seeing as mine didn't work either. Mine was
>a 2
>> > part problem. First thing I did was to throw in a new set of
>> > batteries. I pressed the switch, and nothing. So I took of the
>cover
>> > of the chime, and jumped the 2 wires and still nothing. I took
>the
>> > chime off of the wall and dug out the booklet for it and started
>> > reading it. On the back , right under the part where it basicly
>says
>> > it's going to outlive you, there was what appeared to be some
>type of
>> > rectifier taped to the book. The scotch tape was rather yellow
>and
>> > brittle so not sure if it was a factory issue or not, but anyway,
>I
>> > took the circut board out of the plastic housing, and the
>> > groundstrap, for one of the batteries fell out on the dinette
>table
>> > It looked like someone had dissassembled it and while
>reassembling,
>> > maybe put a little too much pressure on the tabs ( you have to do
>> > this to get the board back in) I soldered the tab back
>> > > on and traced down the location of the diode rectifier It
>fits in
>> > the D9 slot marked on the circut board. I was going to solder the
>new
>> > one in but decided to put it back together, I jumped the
>terminals
>> > while it was on the table, and off it went. I installed it back
>on
>> > the wall and again tried it, with the switch, and nothing. I
>removed
>> > the switch (mine has a brass rectangled backing plate about 1
>1/4" x
>> > 2 1/2" or so, with a white button that looks like it should
>light. I
>> > threw my ohm meter across the terminals while on the bench, and
>> > pressed the button, and no change on the meter, which told me the
>> > switch was open. I layed the switch horizontally and sprayed CRC
>> > Powerlube in the button. I like to use this lube for a few
>reasons.
>> > It's dielectric, which means you can use it in electrical
>switches,
>> > and dries after a day or so, so when you spray it inside your
>> > ignition switch, you can put your keys in your pocket, without
>> > staining your clothes.lol I use this on anything that
>> > > moves. It works real well on the drawer slides etc. Anyway I
>> > started pressing the button with the meter connected and after
>about
>> > a dozen times the meter started to move, the switch was stuck
>open,
>> > after a few more times moving it it was working fine. I tested
>also
>> > for a grounded switch and it wasn't grounded at the button, it's
>> > insulated, I installed it back on the bus and although no light
>it
>> > works just fine, I think the light is not servicable, it looked
>> > sealed. I hope this helps.
>> >
>>
>> > Jimmy Harvie
>> >
>>
>> > 82FC 35 SB
>> >
>>
>> > Boston Ma
>> > >
>> > > Keith Strehle wrote:
>> > > Hey Shane, I just called Nutone. The told me to go to
>> > Radio Shack
>> > > and pick up diode 1N4002 thru 1N4009. They said any of them
>will
>> > > work. I'll pick one up and let you know what happens.
>> > >
>> > > Keith
>> > > 84FC35
>> > >
>> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@>
>> > > wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > Hi Keith,
>> > > >
>> > > > That same thing happened to me- I believe that it has
>something
>> > > to
>> > > > do with the original door chime button being an "insulated"
>> > switch.
>> > > > Most of the newer residential ones are mounted to wood brick
>> > molding
>> > > > or a non-grounded aluminum screen door frame. In a residential
>> > > > application, this doesn't matter because the door frame is not
>> > > > grounded, so if the metal housing for a residential switch
>> > contacts
>> > > > the spring mechanism in the doorbell- nothing happens. On our
>> > > coaches,
>> > > > however, this creates problems because the skin of the coach
>> > serves
>> > > as
>> > > > a ground and as soon as you attach to new doorbell, the
>switch
>> > > grounds
>> > > > itself. Bluebird appears to have used an insulated switch
>> > mechanism
>> > > > where the spring does not contact the metal switch housing.
>I'd
>> > like
>> > > > to replace mine too, but it's not very high on the priorities
>> > list
>> > > so
>> > > > I did not pursue it. Please let us know if you find a suitable
>> > > > replacement.
>> > > >
>> > > > Shane Fedeli
>> > > > 85PT40
>> > > > Hershey, PA
>> > > >
>> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
>> > > > wrote:
>> > > > >
>> > > > > It's a standard door bell switch from Home Depot. It
>releases
>> > > when
>> > > > > you stop pushing. But even if you pushed it down and held
>it
>> > > there
>> > > > > the bell should stop ringing until you push it again.
>Otherwise
>> > > > > every kid in the hood would be taping your dooebell button
>> > down!
>> > > > > It's a basic doorbell switch just like the one in my house.
>> > > There
>> > > > > must be something else to this story. ?????????
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Keith
>> > > > > 84FC35
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
>> > > > > wrote:
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > Keith, Kevin is thinking you are using the wrong switch.
>You
>> > > need a
>> > > > > > momentary switch like the old starter buttons; the moment
>you
>> > > push-
>> > > > > > it makes contact, the moment you release- it loses
>contact.
>> > If
>> > > the
>> > > > > > doorbell button you are using now clicks when pushed, it
>may
>> > > > > unclick
>> > > > > > when pushed the second time. That would be a POPO switch
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > I am looking for a door bell chime that rings like the
>> > NewMoon
>> > > > > > trailer in the LongLong Trailer movie.
>> > > > > > GregoryO'Connor
>> > > > > > 94PTRomolandCa
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Strehle"
>> > > > > > wrote:
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > Okay, I got it. SPST = Single Pole Single Throw. A SPST
>> > > > > momentary
>> > > > > > > switch returns to its normally open (off) position when
>you
>> > > > > release
>> > > > > > > the button. A standard doorbell switch. It doesn't
>solve
>> > the
>> > > > > > problem
>> > > > > > > (yet) but I know what it is now...
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > Thanks, Keith
>> > > > > > > 84FC35
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@ wrote:
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Are you sure it's a momentary, SPST push button
>switch?
>> > > What
>> > > > > > > happens when
>> > > > > > > > you disconnect both wires from the switch? Does the
>chime
>> > > > > > stop?
>> > > > > > > Touch the
>> > > > > > > > wires together, does the chime turn on again? If so,
>your
>> > > > > > switch
>> > > > > > > is the wrong
>> > > > > > > > type. Use a multimeter on the switch contacts, and
>see
>> > > what
>> > > > > the
>> > > > > > > switch does.
>> > > > > > > > The switch could be grounded also, with one of the
>poles
>> > > > > being
>> > > > > > > momentary
>> > > > > > > > "on" and the other always "on" always and off when
>pushed.
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > Kevin Mc
>> > > > > > > > Yorba Linda, CA
>> > > > > > > > 86 38 PT
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > ************************************** See what's
>free at
>> > > > > > > http://www.aol.com.
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> > > > > > > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
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Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA