Propane Heater Removal

[dru penland]

I do appreciate that information. They hurt me, but he gets a bit more reaction
out of it. The yellow jackets have been thick this year. Don't know what the
deal is, but they have sure found some good places to hide this year. Some of
the nests have been so huge I wonder if they have been under construction for
more than one season.

Next time we have a scheduled Dr. appointment, I'm going to ask. Hate to be on
a good trip somewhere and have one of there attacks.

Thanks,

Dru
83fc35rb

bubblerboy64 wrote:
Dru, If your son is allergic to wasp or bee stings DO NOT screw
around with local remedies. There is a world of difference between
the local reaction which we all get from a bee sting to what happens
in a person with a true allergic reaction. Benadryl may NOT work
next time. You best discuss this with your MD if you have not
already. People go into true anaphylactic reactions from bee stings
and the truly allergic often carry epinephrine to administer if
stung. This is serious territory and I am certain there are others on
the list who will ditto my comments here. For some one who is not
allergic most any topical will help. If your boy is allergic putting
any topical on a bee sting would be like trying to put out a forest
fire by urination on it.

Sorry to be off topic but bee stings are potentially life
threatening.

John Heckman DDS
central Pa
1973 FC

>
> Oh NO! I hope I don't get hit with patent infringement! I didn't
know there was a fix. We have a real wasp problem. I found out this
year that my oldest son is extremely allergic to the darn things.
Thanks to goodness Benadryl works!
>
> Dru
> 1983fc35rb
>
> pattypape wrote:
>
> Hey Dru,
>
> Good tip on adding the screening,
>
> This is better than the $20 screen covers sold at
> RV supply stores.
>
> Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, dru penland
> wrote:
> >
> > Not to contradict anyone, but I found it much easier to unscrew
the
> heater from the floor and take out the vent tubes (all screws
> exterior) from the outside and pull the whole box in a nice working
> environment to work on. My problems with removing only the core
unit
> from the box were having ample clearance to pull the innards
without
> hitting other items on the way out such as carpet tack boards, etc.
> Also. mine has 90-degree fittings for the propane that would not
> remove without hitting the floor of the coach. This fitting, on
mine
> has to be removed to slide the core out. My aft heater is under one
> bed and the dinette, as I have a rear bath model, and there would
be
> no way to slide the unit out without deconstructing the furnishings
> extensively.
> >
> > My problems with my heaters were paper wasps and dirt daubers.
> Before replacing my vents, I took the vent cover off the tubes and
> placed a piece of coarse screen wire between the two and sandwiched
> it back together. These insects had completely plugged my front
> heater rendering it inoperable.
> >
> > I wish you luck. I bought my coach last year and went one year
> without heater working. It's great to have them.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > akav8r wrote:
> > I am continuing to work on my recent 82FC purchase.
> THANKS to the
> > help from the group I have knocked a couple of items off my to-do
> list.
> >
> > Most recently I am working on removing the propane heaters (3)
for
> > cleaning. I have the Bryant RV PDF on heater service/maint. I
have
> > turned the gas off and disconnected the supply line at the
heater,
> > removed the front plate with two clips, removed the two screws
> holding
> > the front of the unit to the floor and I have removed the center
> screw
> > from the intake/exhaust plate on the outside of the coach. Still
> the
> > heater will not budge from its place.
> >
> > As I look into the tubes through the intake/exhaust plate from
the
> > exterior of the coach I see a sheet metal screw protruding
through
> > each of the tubes. It appears to be only a few inches into the
> tubes
> > and appears to be through the overlap of the heater tubes and the
> > intake/exhaust plate tubes. This would account for the heater not
> > coming out at this point. However I do not understand how to
remove
> > these screws as even on the heater under the rear bed that is
most
> > accesible I am unable to reach the screws from inside or out.
> >
> > Has anyone else had this problem or is there something I don't
> > understand or know about the removal of the heaters. I don't know
> for
> > sure but I don't think these screws are original or should even
be
> > there.
> >
> > Once again THANKS in advance for any help.
> >
> > Wendel, GA
> > 82 FC35
> > "Momentary lapse of reason"
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Dru and Debora
> > Corpus Christi, TX
> > 1983 FC 35 RB
> > Steady Gittin' It!
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dru and Debora
> Corpus Christi, TX
> 1983 FC 35 RB
> Steady Gittin' It!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






Dru and Debora
Corpus Christi, TX
1983 FC 35 RB
Steady Gittin' It!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]