94pt 8v92 cooling lines to the aircompressor

[Gregory OConnor]

here are some pics of the 8v92 aircompressor coolant lines. at the
fist pic chose next for the next 4 pics
Greg

http://www.pbase.com/gregoryoc/image/102145955




--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> the coolant lines to the engine mounted aircompressor have proven
to
> fail after 20 years. I think it is from the excess heat that gets
> trapped above the transmission / below bedroom.(not vented to
engine
> bay, may be cause of heat in bedroom?). I replaced the coolant
lines
> today as a PM (preventativeMaintenance) measure.
>
> there are two lines that run from the passanger side block to the
> compressor which is mounted above the transmission bell housing.
one
> hose 28 inches long and the other about 8 inches long
>
> Short hose. there is a trap door under the carpet between rear
> dresser and the bed, just about center. I removed the carpeted
> baceboard box that covers wires and pipes, lifted the carpet and
> unscrewed a metal plate. under the wires is one more removable
> plate. the wire plate attaches to the wall behind the wires and to
> the floor. with both plates out you have easy access.
>
> the compressor has several lines 2 coolant 2 oil and two air. the
> coolant lines are at the top. a 7/8inch wrench is used to remove
the
> swival end ( oil uses a 3/4) the short hose attaches to back of
the
> block. when you remove the line you will see the coolant as a check
>
> Long hose. at the other end of the compressor head is the long
hose
> attached to the compressor with a 7/8 swival fitting. the hose
runs
> past the tranny mount between the frame and the block and
reattaches
> to the block above the starter. I removed the compressor end and
cut
> the hose to make it easy to slip thru a strap. with the bus
jacked
> up wheels just on the ground,frame stands and chocks inplace, I
> reached over the starter (removed battery power and unplugged
> chargers) and found the attachement to the block. there are two
> lines attached to the block above the starter one is oil to the
> compressor. the one you want is the farthest reach and the swival
is
> 7/8 and hose is larger than the oil. unable to get a full size
> wrench on the fitting I uses a "stubby whench". A 7/8crows foot
and
> socket wrench would best serve to loosen the fitting but I used a
> bathroom sink wrench(?) (cheap long handel with a flip/flop
little
> pipe wrench thing on the end). I made the long hose 5 inches
longer
> as the OEM was jammed against the frame and 'flex tube vent'.
> Install the starter end fitting first to make it easy to line up
> the thread. I pointed the '90 degree fitting out of the block'
> downward a bit to help clear the 'frame pinch area'. I also bent
the
> flex tube away frm the block for the new line.
>
> the hosefittings are reusable and I wanted to do so but I could
not
> get high temp quickie tube. I had hydrolic line made but wonder
how
> well hydrolic oil hose holds up to coolant product?
>
> took about one hour to remove and 2 to install. it was hard to
line
> up the fitting above the starter and removal of the starter would
> have saved an hour. removal of trap door took an hour also.
>
>
> both hoses with pressed fittings cost about $60.00. SanDiego
> Detroit charged $700. for a 88pt parts and labor (July'08). no
trap
> door access and required starter removal, sounds way fair.
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>