Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace

[p_a_lazar]

Kurt,

I would recommend you *not* insulate the muffler. Even BB removed the
insulation they used to use from existing BBs to prevent heat buildup
and fires, as there were a few stack fires and closet fires.

If you don't mind a loud stack, you could also consider a straight
pipe rather than a muffler. When I had my muffler changed, I didn't
notice an appreciable noise reduction from the previous burned
out/rusted out muffler. I'm still pretty loud (the bus as well as me,
lol).

If you wouldn't mind, I'd like one CD of each that you have available,
both the 95-96 and the 97. I could get them from you at Maxton since I
see you are signed up to be there or RATS if you are going.

Thanks.
Paul
97wb43

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath" wrote:
>
> Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
>
> Well most of this go around for upgrades/fixes are done. Lil_Stankes
> are in and working, some new rocker switches, relocate wiring for
> VMSpc Silverleaf & upgrade new 2.4 software, it has a new engine file
> for the Series 60 @ 470 HP, I'm wondering how that will compare to
> the 500hp setting they told me use. New water pumps and plumbing, new
> water outlet on curb side, Gay water tank overflow plumbimg, Fresh
> water system sanitized, cleaned out behind Splendid 2000
> washer/dryer, disassemble, clean, polish & reassemble air horns.
> Fixed air purge fresh water flush system and rerouted airlines into
> pump bay for easy access. Quick coupler for LP Gas replaced and
> copper pipe cut and a inserted union for future disassembly. Jake
> Brake troubleshooting. Checked Cannon plug for burnt pins and found
> none. I used a 10X loupe to examine the pins and then photographed
> them from both sides at 3264 X 2176 resolution and magnified them on
> the computer and found no burnt or discoloration on the Cannon plugs
> male or female sides, gave them a good shot of electronic contact
> cleaner and some di-electric grease and reassembled. I'll have the
> spare DDEC IV scanned and checked for the Jake program then
> installed to see if that solves the Jake Brake problem, The present
> DDEC may have been deactivated by previous owners. Anyway I need to
> try out the spare to make sure it will work when I really need it. If
> you need or think you'll need a DDEC ECM look on e-bay, good used and
> refurbished unit at much less than you'll pay at D.D.. I got one Mfg
> in '07 it was used as test unit for a few months and programmed to my
> engine for under $600. D.D. want $2500plus for a reman and $'s for
> programming.
>
> I still have a problem with the refrigerator not cooling well while
> underway. Some of you have tested your coaches with ribbons taped on
> and around the sides of the coach and radiator area and have
> discovered that there are unique air patterns around the body.
> Notably the lack of air flowing into the radiator. I would surmise
> that this is true on the roof as well. I'm thinking that this applies
> to the refrigerator exhaust vent on the roof and it's relationship to
> the vent on the side of the body. I have installed 5 - 130cfm
> computer fans in the exhaust vent they will draw 650 CFM. So I think
> that would overcome any adverse air flow caused by the effects of
> air passing across the coach. Well it still isn't functioning well
> while underway, Works great while parked. I'm at a loss as to where
> to go from here. Any ideas would be helpful.
>
> The next major task is replacing the muffler. While installing the
> Lil-Stanker powered tank vents I stopped to look at the exhaust
> stack and reached down to give it a little shake and the chromes
> elbow is only held on by the mounting clamp. It's hollow inside, the
> baffels are gone it's just a tube. I have one ordered, they are hard
> to get. Cummins has a 45 to 60 day back order on the
> Donaldson/Nelson/Fleetgaurd muffler part # 86610M. Found one from
> Fleetpride, under $250 delivered to the farm. BB wanted $900 +
>
> I would like to insulate the muffler and or the muffler tunnel. I
> don't really have a heat issue . But since I'm there doing it anyway
> might as well improve it if practical. There is only about 1"
> clearance on each side, the tunnel measures 13" X 13.5 on my coach
> and the muffler is 11.10 in diameter so you can see there isn't much
> clearance to do much of anything. I am considering Thermo Tec exhaust
> insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and 3000
> degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and shouldn't be
> too hard to install, it's only 1/16th of an inch thick so clearance
> isn't a problem. Paint the pipe with some sort of high temp
> paint/coating to slow down corrosion. I've read that the first few
> runs will cause some smoke/smell but once it's "cured" that will
> stop. Paint the muffler, wrap it, clamp it, paint the wrap to seal it
> from the elements and install on coach, Sounds easy, TOO EASY!
> Somebody with some experience with this needs to chime in here.
>
> Another idea is a smaller diameter muffle with a heat blank from ATP,
> Firwin or Kolb. The Fleetgaurde muffler # 82132M would do nicely. It
> has almost the same flow rate within 100 CFM and it's 9" in diameter,
> that would increase the clearance from the tunnel walls to the
> muffler by 100%. 2" VS 1" The downside is 5" diameter opening VS the
> 6" for the original equipment muffler and pipes. May be a better
> option, but more expensive.
>
> If you get this far through this post I still have 20+ CD's of
> the `95 - `96 PT 42 and `97 PT 43 Diagrams & Blueprints available. If
> you want one send e-mail to kguns@...
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 pt 42 wlwb
> 10AC
>