Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace

[Gregory OConnor]

Kurt,

What,, Whitewalls ?

try running the refer on the inverter when you travel. (may have to
run an extension cord to the refer mechanical compartment) running
it 110volts with good result (cold beer) would rule out airmovement
and point issue at lpg heater or the flame its self. you may have so
much air flow going down the road that the gradual cooling necessary
for amonia evaporation is compramised, or the flame turns white and
heat gets sucked past the boiler???? Or the flame constantly
requires relighting with all the turbulance. maybe 110 and no fan
will work better while traveling??

I wonder if the hotbedroom is not mostly the heat from the tranny
and tires being trapped up against the bell end of the engine?? the
stack may be a minimal issue and more tolerable if there was a way
to vent the tire tranny area??

Greg94ptCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Kurt Horvath"
wrote:
>
> I was pretty sure most views would be against the insulation wrap.
It
> doesn't seem to have a good reputation in respect to corrosion
> issues. Pete is correct it did corrode from the inside out.
>
> I thought about ceramic coating before insulating with wrap,the
cost
> is not in the budget. The people I spoke with asked if I could get
to
> the inner parts and that it would be a better application if they
> could coat the interior as well as the exterior of the muffler.
> Doesn't look like that will happen.
>
> Several people have recommended a straight stack. What are the
> positive & negative aspects of a straight stack? It would be the
> best as far as getting the most clearance in the tunnel and would
> greatly increase the area for convection to occur. I would think
that
> with a small modification to the mounts it would be easier to
install
> than the huge muffle that's in there now. The fact that the
muffler
> is just a tube at this point noise is not very much an issue.
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 PT 42
> 10AC
>