Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace

[p_a_lazar]

David,

Don't know when BB changed the insulation situation, but I looked at a
number of 97s prior to buying mine, and some had had fire damage
(fixed) and all had the insulation removed.

Paul

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, David Brady wrote:
>
> Hmmm, my muffler and angled up-pipe are insulated with a wire-tied,
> wrap around jacket. The jacket on the base of the muffler definitely
> blocks vertical air passage. Do you guys recommend that I remove
> this insulation? Paul, when did BB cease installing this insulation, and
> did they ever remove it from the LXi's?
>
> Thanks,
> David Brady
> '02 LXi, NC (home at last!)
>
> p_a_lazar wrote:
> >
> > Kurt,
> >
> > I would recommend you *not* insulate the muffler. Even BB removed the
> > insulation they used to use from existing BBs to prevent heat buildup
> > and fires, as there were a few stack fires and closet fires.
> >
> > If you don't mind a loud stack, you could also consider a straight
> > pipe rather than a muffler. When I had my muffler changed, I didn't
> > notice an appreciable noise reduction from the previous burned
> > out/rusted out muffler. I'm still pretty loud (the bus as well as me,
> > lol).
> >
> > If you wouldn't mind, I'd like one CD of each that you have available,
> > both the 95-96 and the 97. I could get them from you at Maxton since I
> > see you are signed up to be there or RATS if you are going.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Paul
> > 97wb43
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > , "Kurt Horvath"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
> > >
> > > Well most of this go around for upgrades/fixes are done. Lil_Stankes
> > > are in and working, some new rocker switches, relocate wiring for
> > > VMSpc Silverleaf & upgrade new 2.4 software, it has a new engine
file
> > > for the Series 60 @ 470 HP, I'm wondering how that will compare to
> > > the 500hp setting they told me use. New water pumps and
plumbing, new
> > > water outlet on curb side, Gay water tank overflow plumbimg, Fresh
> > > water system sanitized, cleaned out behind Splendid 2000
> > > washer/dryer, disassemble, clean, polish & reassemble air horns.
> > > Fixed air purge fresh water flush system and rerouted airlines into
> > > pump bay for easy access. Quick coupler for LP Gas replaced and
> > > copper pipe cut and a inserted union for future disassembly. Jake
> > > Brake troubleshooting. Checked Cannon plug for burnt pins and found
> > > none. I used a 10X loupe to examine the pins and then photographed
> > > them from both sides at 3264 X 2176 resolution and magnified them on
> > > the computer and found no burnt or discoloration on the Cannon plugs
> > > male or female sides, gave them a good shot of electronic contact
> > > cleaner and some di-electric grease and reassembled. I'll have the
> > > spare DDEC IV scanned and checked for the Jake program then
> > > installed to see if that solves the Jake Brake problem, The present
> > > DDEC may have been deactivated by previous owners. Anyway I need to
> > > try out the spare to make sure it will work when I really need
it. If
> > > you need or think you'll need a DDEC ECM look on e-bay, good
used and
> > > refurbished unit at much less than you'll pay at D.D.. I got one Mfg
> > > in '07 it was used as test unit for a few months and programmed
to my
> > > engine for under $600. D.D. want $2500plus for a reman and $'s for
> > > programming.
> > >
> > > I still have a problem with the refrigerator not cooling well while
> > > underway. Some of you have tested your coaches with ribbons taped on
> > > and around the sides of the coach and radiator area and have
> > > discovered that there are unique air patterns around the body.
> > > Notably the lack of air flowing into the radiator. I would surmise
> > > that this is true on the roof as well. I'm thinking that this
applies
> > > to the refrigerator exhaust vent on the roof and it's
relationship to
> > > the vent on the side of the body. I have installed 5 - 130cfm
> > > computer fans in the exhaust vent they will draw 650 CFM. So I think
> > > that would overcome any adverse air flow caused by the effects of
> > > air passing across the coach. Well it still isn't functioning well
> > > while underway, Works great while parked. I'm at a loss as to where
> > > to go from here. Any ideas would be helpful.
> > >
> > > The next major task is replacing the muffler. While installing the
> > > Lil-Stanker powered tank vents I stopped to look at the exhaust
> > > stack and reached down to give it a little shake and the chromes
> > > elbow is only held on by the mounting clamp. It's hollow inside, the
> > > baffels are gone it's just a tube. I have one ordered, they are hard
> > > to get. Cummins has a 45 to 60 day back order on the
> > > Donaldson/Nelson/Fleetgaurd muffler part # 86610M. Found one from
> > > Fleetpride, under $250 delivered to the farm. BB wanted $900 +
> > >
> > > I would like to insulate the muffler and or the muffler tunnel. I
> > > don't really have a heat issue . But since I'm there doing it anyway
> > > might as well improve it if practical. There is only about 1"
> > > clearance on each side, the tunnel measures 13" X 13.5 on my coach
> > > and the muffler is 11.10 in diameter so you can see there isn't much
> > > clearance to do much of anything. I am considering Thermo Tec
exhaust
> > > insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and 3000
> > > degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and shouldn't be
> > > too hard to install, it's only 1/16th of an inch thick so clearance
> > > isn't a problem. Paint the pipe with some sort of high temp
> > > paint/coating to slow down corrosion. I've read that the first few
> > > runs will cause some smoke/smell but once it's "cured" that will
> > > stop. Paint the muffler, wrap it, clamp it, paint the wrap to
seal it
> > > from the elements and install on coach, Sounds easy, TOO EASY!
> > > Somebody with some experience with this needs to chime in here.
> > >
> > > Another idea is a smaller diameter muffle with a heat blank from
ATP,
> > > Firwin or Kolb. The Fleetgaurde muffler # 82132M would do nicely. It
> > > has almost the same flow rate within 100 CFM and it's 9" in
diameter,
> > > that would increase the clearance from the tunnel walls to the
> > > muffler by 100%. 2" VS 1" The downside is 5" diameter opening VS the
> > > 6" for the original equipment muffler and pipes. May be a better
> > > option, but more expensive.
> > >
> > > If you get this far through this post I still have 20+ CD's of
> > > the `95 - `96 PT 42 and `97 PT 43 Diagrams & Blueprints
available. If
> > > you want one send e-mail to kguns@
> > >
> > > Kurt Horvath
> > > 95 pt 42 wlwb
> > > 10AC
> > >
> >
> >
> >
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