Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
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09-29-2008, 04:06
Post: #8
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Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace
David,
Don't know when BB changed the insulation situation, but I looked at a number of 97s prior to buying mine, and some had had fire damage (fixed) and all had the insulation removed. Paul --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, David Brady > > Hmmm, my muffler and angled up-pipe are insulated with a wire-tied, > wrap around jacket. The jacket on the base of the muffler definitely > blocks vertical air passage. Do you guys recommend that I remove > this insulation? Paul, when did BB cease installing this insulation, and > did they ever remove it from the LXi's? > > Thanks, > David Brady > '02 LXi, NC (home at last!) > > p_a_lazar wrote: > > > > Kurt, > > > > I would recommend you *not* insulate the muffler. Even BB removed the > > insulation they used to use from existing BBs to prevent heat buildup > > and fires, as there were a few stack fires and closet fires. > > > > If you don't mind a loud stack, you could also consider a straight > > pipe rather than a muffler. When I had my muffler changed, I didn't > > notice an appreciable noise reduction from the previous burned > > out/rusted out muffler. I'm still pretty loud (the bus as well as me, > > lol). > > > > If you wouldn't mind, I'd like one CD of each that you have available, > > both the 95-96 and the 97. I could get them from you at Maxton since I > > see you are signed up to be there or RATS if you are going. > > > > Thanks. > > Paul > > 97wb43 > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > > > > > > > > > Work finished, Refrigerator & Muffler Fix & Replace > > > > > > Well most of this go around for upgrades/fixes are done. Lil_Stankes > > > are in and working, some new rocker switches, relocate wiring for > > > VMSpc Silverleaf & upgrade new 2.4 software, it has a new engine file > > > for the Series 60 @ 470 HP, I'm wondering how that will compare to > > > the 500hp setting they told me use. New water pumps and plumbing, new > > > water outlet on curb side, Gay water tank overflow plumbimg, Fresh > > > water system sanitized, cleaned out behind Splendid 2000 > > > washer/dryer, disassemble, clean, polish & reassemble air horns. > > > Fixed air purge fresh water flush system and rerouted airlines into > > > pump bay for easy access. Quick coupler for LP Gas replaced and > > > copper pipe cut and a inserted union for future disassembly. Jake > > > Brake troubleshooting. Checked Cannon plug for burnt pins and found > > > none. I used a 10X loupe to examine the pins and then photographed > > > them from both sides at 3264 X 2176 resolution and magnified them on > > > the computer and found no burnt or discoloration on the Cannon plugs > > > male or female sides, gave them a good shot of electronic contact > > > cleaner and some di-electric grease and reassembled. I'll have the > > > spare DDEC IV scanned and checked for the Jake program then > > > installed to see if that solves the Jake Brake problem, The present > > > DDEC may have been deactivated by previous owners. Anyway I need to > > > try out the spare to make sure it will work when I really need it. If > > > you need or think you'll need a DDEC ECM look on e-bay, good used and > > > refurbished unit at much less than you'll pay at D.D.. I got one Mfg > > > in '07 it was used as test unit for a few months and programmed to my > > > engine for under $600. D.D. want $2500plus for a reman and $'s for > > > programming. > > > > > > I still have a problem with the refrigerator not cooling well while > > > underway. Some of you have tested your coaches with ribbons taped on > > > and around the sides of the coach and radiator area and have > > > discovered that there are unique air patterns around the body. > > > Notably the lack of air flowing into the radiator. I would surmise > > > that this is true on the roof as well. I'm thinking that this applies > > > to the refrigerator exhaust vent on the roof and it's relationship to > > > the vent on the side of the body. I have installed 5 - 130cfm > > > computer fans in the exhaust vent they will draw 650 CFM. So I think > > > that would overcome any adverse air flow caused by the effects of > > > air passing across the coach. Well it still isn't functioning well > > > while underway, Works great while parked. I'm at a loss as to where > > > to go from here. Any ideas would be helpful. > > > > > > The next major task is replacing the muffler. While installing the > > > Lil-Stanker powered tank vents I stopped to look at the exhaust > > > stack and reached down to give it a little shake and the chromes > > > elbow is only held on by the mounting clamp. It's hollow inside, the > > > baffels are gone it's just a tube. I have one ordered, they are hard > > > to get. Cummins has a 45 to 60 day back order on the > > > Donaldson/Nelson/Fleetgaurd muffler part # 86610M. Found one from > > > Fleetpride, under $250 delivered to the farm. BB wanted $900 + > > > > > > I would like to insulate the muffler and or the muffler tunnel. I > > > don't really have a heat issue . But since I'm there doing it anyway > > > might as well improve it if practical. There is only about 1" > > > clearance on each side, the tunnel measures 13" X 13.5 on my coach > > > and the muffler is 11.10 in diameter so you can see there isn't much > > > clearance to do much of anything. I am considering Thermo Tec exhaust > > > insulating wrap. It is rated at 2000 degrees continuos use and 3000 > > > degrees intermittent use. It comes in 6" wide rolls and shouldn't be > > > too hard to install, it's only 1/16th of an inch thick so clearance > > > isn't a problem. Paint the pipe with some sort of high temp > > > paint/coating to slow down corrosion. I've read that the first few > > > runs will cause some smoke/smell but once it's "cured" that will > > > stop. Paint the muffler, wrap it, clamp it, paint the wrap to seal it > > > from the elements and install on coach, Sounds easy, TOO EASY! > > > Somebody with some experience with this needs to chime in here. > > > > > > Another idea is a smaller diameter muffle with a heat blank from ATP, > > > Firwin or Kolb. The Fleetgaurde muffler # 82132M would do nicely. It > > > has almost the same flow rate within 100 CFM and it's 9" in diameter, > > > that would increase the clearance from the tunnel walls to the > > > muffler by 100%. 2" VS 1" The downside is 5" diameter opening VS the > > > 6" for the original equipment muffler and pipes. May be a better > > > option, but more expensive. > > > > > > If you get this far through this post I still have 20+ CD's of > > > the `95 - `96 PT 42 and `97 PT 43 Diagrams & Blueprints available. If > > > you want one send e-mail to kguns@ > > > > > > Kurt Horvath > > > 95 pt 42 wlwb > > > 10AC > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG. > > Version: 7.5.526 / Virus Database: 270.7.5/1696 - Release Date: 9/28/2008 1:30 PM > > > |
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