Water Heater

[Gregory OConnor]

try and orientate the replacement tank so future electrc heater
element replacement is easy. There was a thread on a
homemade 'emptywater tank electric cutoff device' (JayD)that may
explan extra wires to the tank.
Greg94ptCa
--- In WanderlodgeForum@..., "Rick A."
wrote:
>
> Steve....I replaced mine with one of Birtles Force 10 units, very
heavy stainless and well
> built, better than original. Unfortunately I had to remove/replace
mine 4 times for
> different reasons (not the new water heaters fault). Consider it
a "human torture" fun
> project w/ lots of body contortion. Perfect for Halloween time!
First time took 4 hours to
> remove.....4th time took 30 minutes. Have Ms Patticake hit you in
the head with a
> hammer forming your head into a conehead shape and twisting your
neck around so it
> swivels 180 degrees first will help! Step 1 disconnect electricity
to coach and drain
> pressure from water system.(you get to do this project in the dark
so bring a flashlight)
> Step 2 remove enough interior cabinetry/walls/floors etc to gain
access to water lines on
> heater. Step 3 open the drain valve and begin draining it, loosen
old water lines at old
> heater to allow air to enter, in engine compartment remove engine
coolant lines going to
> heater and plug on coach side, have bucket ready. When drained
completely much easier
> to wrestle with. Step 4 remove screws holding unit to floor if you
haven't already and
> remove additional cabinetry/walls to allow unit to swivel to access
the electric line..
> remove that. Step 5 remove old unit, be sure its empty first!
> I used simple stainless flexible water lines available at any
hardware store to reconnect
> adding ball valves. The mid 80's pt's compartment has to be
modified slightly, but yours
> being newer, you may not have to do this. Be sure and check the
platform it sits on as
> any leak will rot the wood base...mine had to be rebuilt. I also
insulated between the
> water heater and the rear air conditioner while I was in there
because it did not seem
> very smart to be drawing return air for the rear air conditioner
from around a 10 gallon
> tank of almost boiling water?
> Your removal/install will be different than on my 85 of course,
but hopefully this helps
> some? If nothing else it will make MsPatticake feel better after
working you over with a
> hammer.
> Electroylsis is the culprit which destroys the water heater...
It is in any object, coach,
> boat, etc which has different fields of electricity and of course
water going thru it....and
> even thru dissimilar metals as we know....best solution is to get
the best built water
> heater you can afford and expect it to last only 10-15 years.
>
> Rick Archie
> 85PT40 "Fort R"
> Fort Worth
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "patticake592000"
<sgureasko@> wrote:
> >
> > Am in the process of removing some walls to replace a leaking
> > water heater.
> > To the people that have done this, I would like information on
> > what type was used, why, and how much plumbing changes were
required.
> > Mine at this point is an Atwood, mod. #EHMII-SM. I do not know
if it
> > is original or not. If it is, it sure had a good service life!
> >
> > Steve Gureasko
> > 90WBWL40 Jus Chillin
> > Ponchatoula, La.
> >
>