Generator door

[Scott Forman]

I can't comment on the frame, but definately add the insulation. When I did my
old FC, I used the thin stuff from JC Whitney and it worked fine, but I have
since discovered the thicker stuff Birtles sells and I swear by it.

On the aluminum surround, I also had the idea of making a flexible mating
surface to the door. I used some of the insulation for that as well, glued it
on so that it hung off and covered the gap. Not the most scientific design, but
it got the job done and was holding up fine when I sold the coach. Any open
space you can "plug" helps with sound deadening.

Also, I highly recommend you consider changing out to a 12v radiator fan to cut
down on noise as I discussed in previous posts. HUGE difference.

Scott Formn
86 PT38
Memphis
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "hippieforever3" wrote:
>
> While I was refurbing the generator (12.5 Kohler), I took the door off and am
now getting ready to put it back on.
>
> It's real clear to me that it needs a layer of sound insulation because a
naked piece of sheet metal provides almost no sound deadening and probably
amplifies sound.
>
> It's also pretty flimsy and flexes all over the place. I think I'm going to
install some form of stiffener frame around the outside edge and while I was
looking at all that I thought it might be good to hard mount it to the roller
rails so it doesn't float all over the place and vibrate. I'm also looking at
the idea of replacing the cheesey aluminum flange around the generator opening
with some type of molding that has a flexible portion to mate with the door. I
think that should help with sound too.
>
> Any comments, advice, part recommendations?
>
> I do have one concern that if I hard mount the door to the rails I might have
nasty problems if the door ever bottoms out.
>
> Have anyone else done spmething like this?
> How has it worked out?
>
> Regards,
> GPSGary
> 1984FC35SB
>