Why the engine replacements?

[Henry Jay Hannigan]

---GARY:
Thanks for your comments about storing my BIRD with 1200 miles on
the oil for 6 months or more..your advice is to put fresh in and get
rid of the 1200 mile oil. my bird has a relatively new engine mile
wise with only 41000 miles on it as such i'll probably leave
the "old"" oil in in for 6 months or so. Hate to leave the bird
that long but have a couple places to go.
regards,.
HANK HANNIGAN
90SP36

In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gary Miller"
wrote:
> Hi Hank,
>
> I'm not an expert, but it's my understanding the oil will have
> contaminants in it after use. How much contaminants would likely
> depend upon the type of usage during the 1200 miles. For example,
> short term start-ups would not allow the engine and oil to heat up
> and disperse/degrade the contaminants like a long drive would.
>
> Oil has usage AND time limits on the change interval. I'm not
sure
> how long (time) you can go between changes but normally, I
believe,
> annual changes are recommended. To truly determine if the oil is
> meeting manufacturer standards, I suppose an engineer could sample
> it, determine the pH and contaminant level, compare it to a graph
or
> some other data, and then project out the quality of the oil over
a
> six month period.
>
> I like having fresh oil when going into winter storage for several
> reasons. The lack of contaminants which can degrade the oil over
> time and perhaps engine components/seals, a fresh oil analysis
which
> allows me time over the winter to consider if repairs may be
> forthcoming, fresh oil at the start of the season in spring which
is
> one less item to accomplish, and fresh clean oil in the engine all
> winter which means the additives in the oil are all in top
condition
> as it rests against seals, bearings,and other components.
>
> I would rather crank my engine with fresh oil in it than dirty oil
> in it after sitting for long periods.
>
> It may or may not make a substantial difference, but since I don't
> know how long I want the engine to last, I do everything I can to
> ensure it will last, for me, indefinately.
>
> So to sum up, the way I understand it, contaminants in the oil and
> pH changes are part of the breakdown process over time, not just
the
> thermal and viscous breakdown from usage.
>
> While it is a bummer that you only have 1200 miles on the oil, if
it
> is going to sit for six months, I'd go with fresh oil. Right now,
> the pH is changing and it has some contaminants.
>
> Perhaps someone can help us elaborate as to whether starting and
> using the engine once a month will provide a rejuvinating effect
to
> the oil?
>
> Gary Miller
> 83 FC 33 - For Sale 'millercoachworks.com'
> Milwaukee area
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Henry Jay Hannigan"
> wrote:
> > ---GARY:
> > You mentioned "change oil before storage." Could you expand
your
> > comments a bit. eg 1200 miles on oil..is it ok to put in
> > storage?? where is the "change oil" miles point in your opinion
> as
> > I am storing my BIRD for six months or so.
> > Thanks,
> > HANK HANNIGAN
> > 90SP36
> > In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Christina Corpus"
> > wrote:
> > > Gary,
> > >
> > > Thanks for your reply.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gary Miller"
> > > wrote:
> > > > Phil,
> > > >
> > > > Very good question. I've pondered the same thing before and
> > would
> > > > have to agree with your assumptions #1 and #4, with #2 being
a
> > part
> > > > of #4.
> > > >
> > > > I've been following the Wanderlodge forums for 4 years or so
> > now,
> > > > and am often amazed when the topic of lubrication comes up
and
> > > > people are trying to figure out the minimum they can get
away
> > with
> > > > when maintaining their engines/drivelines. Do I hafta use
> > > expensive
> > > > lubricants? Do I hafta change the oil before storage?
Should
> I
> > > > bother with oil sampling? Should I bother with additives in
> the
> > > > coolant? Normally these folks become converts to proper
> > mechanical
> > > > maintenance after the discussions, but there are folks out
> there
> > > who
> > > > don't partake in the forum.
> > >
> > > Kind of like the old TV ad, "Pay me now, or pay me later."
> Sounds
> > > like asking a seller whether or not he has all his service
> records
> > > available would be a good idea. If not, then it's 'buyer
beware'
> > > time.
> > >
> > >
> > > > How often should I check the oil? Well, if you have to ask,
> > > > probably more often than you are...
> > >
> > > Copy that.
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Regarding assumption #1, I saw receipts from an owner of a
> fresh
> > > > transmission fluid and filter change (internal and
external).
> > His
> > > > transmission had no internal filter (to my knowledge), and
the
> > spin
> > > > on filter had a date marked on it with marker over 5 years
> old!
> > I
> > > > insist on keeping a friendly eye on the folks who work on my
> > coach
> > > > (rare).
> > >
> > > ...and since there is more money to made...
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Some folks overspin their engines. This'll kill the CAT.
The
> > way
> > > I
> > > > understand it the valve springs can't keep up and it eats a
> > valve.
> > >
> > > One company I worked for installed a CAT engine into one its
> medium
> > > duty trucks. It was replacing a Cummins. The thing I
remember
> > about
> > > driving that truck after the swap was how quickly the CAT
engine
> > > peaked out in each gear. You definitely had to watch the tach.
> > >
> > >
> > > > These coaches were built when the national speed limit was
55
> > and
> > > > most were geared for about 65 max. So unless you install a
new
> > > rear
> > > > end or larger tires, that's all you should do. As you know,
> the
> > > > governor won't slow the engine if the driver wants to point
> the
> > rig
> > > > downhill and mat the pedal and some tach's are in need of
> > > > adjustments after many years.
> > >
> > > Out here in California, we have the Grapevine heading north
out
> of
> > Los
> > > Angeles. On the north side, northbound, the speed limit for
> > trucks is
> > > 35 mph. I downshift my 78,000 pound truck into 6th gear,
engage
> > the
> > > Jake brake, and cruise down that grade at 18 mph, never
touching
> > the
> > > brake pedal. I am constantly amazed at all the motorhomes
that
> > pass
> > > me going full tilt down that mountain. I mean, they are
keeping
> up
> > > with the cars that are going down at 75 mph. You can hear the
> > engines
> > > winding out tight.
> > >
> > > > There's always the temptation to be motoring on down the
> road,
> > but
> > > > hey, if there's a house on your back, what's the hurry?
You're
> > > >already there.
> > >
> > > Our plan is to full time, so this is exactly our philosophy.
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > The engines are all very staunch, heavy duty top line
units.
> > But
> > > > they're only bulletproof with proper maintenance.
> > > >
> > > > I wouldn't make the assumption that all the engines have a
> > > checkered
> > > > past though. What you are seeing is a small percentage of
> > coaches
> > > > that have been misunderstood by their owners and are being
> sold.
> > >
> > > It appears from the responses to my question from everyone
that
> > there
> > > is no issue regarding the durability of the engines used in the
> > > Bluebird.
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I would look for an owner who baby's his coach, changes
fluids
> > and
> > > > keeps records, gets oil samples, and generally would rather
> keep
> > > his
> > > > coach than sell it. Oh wait...that's me!
> > >
> > > My wife is very impressed with your coach. I have to remind
her
> > what
> > > our plans are and that 35 feet is the minimum we've decided
on.
> > Now
> > > if you could figure out how to extend your unit 2-3 feet... :>)
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Gary Miller
> > > > 83 FC 33 - For Sale 'millercoachworks.com'
> > > > Milwaukee area
> > > >