What is a good diesel fuel additive

[John Suter]

Hi Chris,

Scott has provided you with good info about the
dangers of cavitation, which I omitted for fear of
"too much info" that might lead to confusion.
However, as the door has been opened, we don't want to
leave you and others confused about the following:

> The PH is
> generally thought
> as an indicator as when to change coolant, NOT keep
> the cavitation
> from happening.

What we are saying is, it is an error to consider
the pH an indicator to change coolant, and that
additives are designed to reduce "cavitation," which,
in over-simplified terms, is the action of air bubbles
within the coolant mixture, "exploding" against the
metallic wet- or dry-sleeve walls, "pitting them" to
the eventual point of a break-through between the
coolant side and the combustion side of the engine
block (sometimes, similarly the transmission).

A visual example might be to imagine an open pot
boiling on the stove, with the trapped air bubbles
rising against a closed lid, and then
"popping/exploding" to knock loose tiny pieces of
metal with each burst. That action is "cavitation" in
the very narrow, diesel-engine-coolant, sense of the
term.

> The mechanic who does some work for me said that I
> needed to drain the fuel out if there was any
> algea...I am thinking what will I do with 265
> gallons of diesel!!!!

Let's hope complete draining isn't necessary.

> Glad I can treat it if there is any..

What Scott pointed out was that heavy treating
"precipitates out" the algae so it can be trapped by
various filters which then will clog to the point of
blockage; therefore, have numerous replacement filters
available or you can be stranded on the road. Again,
IF you have to heavily treat.

Loosely, in small quantities, the Bio-Bor will
"dissolve/emulsify" the moisture before it can "feed"
the algae bloom to the point of a major problem.

> The old
> Racor filter was black and slick like grease but
> there were no large clumps. I do not have a sight
> glass on mine.

Not to alarm, but numerous "large clumps" stick
together to form a grease-like, black consistency.
I'd check the latest Racor filter after a few hundred
miles and see what it looks like, then form a
conclusion.

> While we are talking about that
> general area, there is a faucet with small drain
> hose to the left of the Racor mounted on the
> wall...Any idea what that is for?

If it is at a gravitational low point compared to
the Raycor, I'd have to bet it is to tap-off loose
particles. Typically, the drain is at the bottom of
the glass bowl we previously mentioned, but you may
not have one.

> I have been told that Lucas is a good oil
> additive. Is it recommended to add anything to the
> engine oil?

Someone else will have to advise on that issue.

Good luck,

John Suter



> Thanks
> Chris Reed
> 83 FC35 SB
> Plant City, FL.


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