94pt 8v92 cooling lines to the aircompressor

[mbulriss]

Great pics Greg. They made that block mount hose above the starter
look almost easily accessible!

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX






--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> here are some pics of the 8v92 aircompressor coolant lines. at the
> fist pic chose next for the next 4 pics
> Greg
>
> http://www.pbase.com/gregoryoc/image/102145955
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
> wrote:
> >
> > the coolant lines to the engine mounted aircompressor have proven
> to
> > fail after 20 years. I think it is from the excess heat that gets
> > trapped above the transmission / below bedroom.(not vented to
> engine
> > bay, may be cause of heat in bedroom?). I replaced the coolant
> lines
> > today as a PM (preventativeMaintenance) measure.
> >
> > there are two lines that run from the passanger side block to the
> > compressor which is mounted above the transmission bell housing.
> one
> > hose 28 inches long and the other about 8 inches long
> >
> > Short hose. there is a trap door under the carpet between rear
> > dresser and the bed, just about center. I removed the carpeted
> > baceboard box that covers wires and pipes, lifted the carpet and
> > unscrewed a metal plate. under the wires is one more removable
> > plate. the wire plate attaches to the wall behind the wires and to
> > the floor. with both plates out you have easy access.
> >
> > the compressor has several lines 2 coolant 2 oil and two air. the
> > coolant lines are at the top. a 7/8inch wrench is used to remove
> the
> > swival end ( oil uses a 3/4) the short hose attaches to back of
> the
> > block. when you remove the line you will see the coolant as a check
> >
> > Long hose. at the other end of the compressor head is the long
> hose
> > attached to the compressor with a 7/8 swival fitting. the hose
> runs
> > past the tranny mount between the frame and the block and
> reattaches
> > to the block above the starter. I removed the compressor end and
> cut
> > the hose to make it easy to slip thru a strap. with the bus
> jacked
> > up wheels just on the ground,frame stands and chocks inplace, I
> > reached over the starter (removed battery power and unplugged
> > chargers) and found the attachement to the block. there are two
> > lines attached to the block above the starter one is oil to the
> > compressor. the one you want is the farthest reach and the swival
> is
> > 7/8 and hose is larger than the oil. unable to get a full size
> > wrench on the fitting I uses a "stubby whench". A 7/8crows foot
> and
> > socket wrench would best serve to loosen the fitting but I used a
> > bathroom sink wrench(?) (cheap long handel with a flip/flop
> little
> > pipe wrench thing on the end). I made the long hose 5 inches
> longer
> > as the OEM was jammed against the frame and 'flex tube vent'.
> > Install the starter end fitting first to make it easy to line up
> > the thread. I pointed the '90 degree fitting out of the block'
> > downward a bit to help clear the 'frame pinch area'. I also bent
> the
> > flex tube away frm the block for the new line.
> >
> > the hosefittings are reusable and I wanted to do so but I could
> not
> > get high temp quickie tube. I had hydrolic line made but wonder
> how
> > well hydrolic oil hose holds up to coolant product?
> >
> > took about one hour to remove and 2 to install. it was hard to
> line
> > up the fitting above the starter and removal of the starter would
> > have saved an hour. removal of trap door took an hour also.
> >
> >
> > both hoses with pressed fittings cost about $60.00. SanDiego
> > Detroit charged $700. for a 88pt parts and labor (July'08). no
> trap
> > door access and required starter removal, sounds way fair.
> >
> > GregoryO'Connor
> > 94ptRomolandCa
> >
>