Brush gobbler

[Ryan Wright]

Tom,

They sent me the same exact part # you have.

Here's a picture of my old slip ring: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/slipring.jpg

Just look at the wear on that son of a gun! No wonder it was eating
through brushes. You can also clearly see the inside of the slip ring.
Note, no notch. Instead there are those very tiny splines. The shaft
on my generator has corresponding splines. My Kohler is model 12.5cc,
spec 135010.

They also sent me a "Ring, tolerance", part # 238211. I didn't order
it. It's a thin metal strap looking thing. Not sure if they assumed I
would need it or not, but I've no idea where it would go, as I don't
have anything like this on my generator. I guess I'll find out Monday
when I talk to them.

-Ryan

On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 3:56 AM, thomas_sorrentino
wrote:
> Ryan,
>
> Thanks for the update. Excellent information. I'm all geared up to do
> this at Tom Warners rally next weekend. You've got me wondering about
> having the correct slip rings though. The new one I have sounds just
> like the one they had sent you (has a large key notch). On the box
> it's part number 359447, description ring collector. Is it possible
> to post any photo's of what you got and what your suppose to have? My
> private e-mail is tomsorrentino at hotmail dot com.
> Also I'm really curious to see if your old slip ring is worn like
> mine?
> Thanks again.
>
> Tom Sorrentino
> 1987 PT38
> Bedford Hills, NY
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
> wrote:
>>
>> Update: Looks like they sent me the wrong slip rings. My shaft &
> slip
>> rings have a bunch of tiny splines that hold it in place. The slip
>> ring set they shipped me has a large key-notch in it. Bummer - I'll
>> have to call them Monday morning and get this straightened out.
>>
>> So far, though, folks, this looks to be a relatively easy repair
>> without taking the generator out. You just run the generator all the
>> way out on it's slide, then climb under there. I'm actually able to
>> sit up once I'm in there, so my head & upper body is in the cavity
>> where the generator sits when closed. Much more comfortable to work
> in
>> a sitting position vs. laying on my back. Take the back "vent" thing
>> off, remove the brushes, relays (I think that's what those two
> little
>> silver things are), voltage regulator and all other wires. Mark them
>> and/or take pictures so you know what goes where (I'll provide my
> own
>> pictures and a better write-up when I'm done). Remove all of the
> bolts
>> holding the rear "cap" onto the generator and remove that cap.
>>
>> Now you have access. De-solder the two wires on the old slip rings
> and
>> carefully move them out of the way. Use a gear puller to remove the
>> bearing and slip rings. This is where I'm at. Then, just re-assemble
>> with new parts. No need to pull the generator out of the coach and
>> deal with fuel and coolant lines, oil, hydraulic lines and all that
>> entails.
>>
>> Time spent: Probably 4 hours worth of actual work for me thus far,
>> much of it spent trying to get that darn cap off the back of the
>> generator. Finally took a long stick and tapped it out from the
> front
>> (thanks Ralph for the advice). Now that I know what I'm doing, I
> think
>> I could get to this point in half the time. In fact, with all of the
>> (right!) parts on hand, I'm guessing I could do the entire job in 4
> to
>> 6 hours start to finish next time. That assumes there are no gotchas
>> when I start putting it back together, but I can't see any from
> here.
>>
>> If you've ever pulled the transmission out of a car, just dig in and
>> do this. This job is a piece of cake by comparison. Well worth doing
>> yourself - I've got a measly $100 into the parts. Very happy I
> didn't
>> spring for the 4 hour round trip drive and the $1600+ in labor to
> get
>> it done by the pros.
>>
>> This is a simplistic explanation but it's a good overview for those
> of
>> you itching to tackle this. As I said, I'll have lots of pictures
> and
>> a more detailed write-up of the procedure available on my web site
>> once I'm done. I'll post a link at that time.
>>
>> -Ryan
>> '86 PT-40 8V92, Yanmar powered Kohler 12.5kw genset
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 2:30 PM, Ryan Wright
> wrote:
>> > Hi Tom,
>> >
>> > My parts just arrived Friday night. I spent several hours under
> the
>> > coach this morning and am heading back down there in a little bit.
>> > Yes, this can absolutely be done without removing the generator.
> It's
>> > not all that difficult, really. I'll have pictures and such ready
> here
>> > in another week or two. Should have mine finished up by tomorrow
> if I
>> > don't run into any problems.
>> >
>> > -Ryan
>> >
>> > On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:10 PM, thomas_sorrentino
>> > wrote:
>> >> Ryan,
>> >>
>> >> Any progress on this yet? Tips? Shortcuts? Does it seem like it
> can
>> >> be done without removing the generator? I'm getting ready to do
> mine
>> >> soon.
>> >>
>> >> Tom Sorrentino
>> >> 1987 PT38
>> >> Bedford Hills, NY
>> >
>>
>
>

[Ryan Wright]

Oh, have a heavy duty soldering iron on hand to get the leads off the
old slip ring. I used a standard gun-style 100 watt unit with the
trigger. It worked, but took some doing. A smaller unit, such as the
typical pen-style used for electronics work, would be ineffective.

-Ryan

On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 9:25 PM, Ryan Wright wrote:
> Tom,
>
> They sent me the same exact part # you have.
>
> Here's a picture of my old slip ring:
http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/slipring.jpg
>
> Just look at the wear on that son of a gun! No wonder it was eating
> through brushes. You can also clearly see the inside of the slip ring.
> Note, no notch. Instead there are those very tiny splines. The shaft
> on my generator has corresponding splines. My Kohler is model 12.5cc,
> spec 135010.
>
> They also sent me a "Ring, tolerance", part # 238211. I didn't order
> it. It's a thin metal strap looking thing. Not sure if they assumed I
> would need it or not, but I've no idea where it would go, as I don't
> have anything like this on my generator. I guess I'll find out Monday
> when I talk to them.
>
> -Ryan
>
> On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 3:56 AM, thomas_sorrentino
> wrote:
>> Ryan,
>>
>> Thanks for the update. Excellent information. I'm all geared up to do
>> this at Tom Warners rally next weekend. You've got me wondering about
>> having the correct slip rings though. The new one I have sounds just
>> like the one they had sent you (has a large key notch). On the box
>> it's part number 359447, description ring collector. Is it possible
>> to post any photo's of what you got and what your suppose to have? My
>> private e-mail is tomsorrentino at hotmail dot com.
>> Also I'm really curious to see if your old slip ring is worn like
>> mine?
>> Thanks again.
>>
>> Tom Sorrentino
>> 1987 PT38
>> Bedford Hills, NY
>>
>> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Update: Looks like they sent me the wrong slip rings. My shaft &
>> slip
>>> rings have a bunch of tiny splines that hold it in place. The slip
>>> ring set they shipped me has a large key-notch in it. Bummer - I'll
>>> have to call them Monday morning and get this straightened out.
>>>
>>> So far, though, folks, this looks to be a relatively easy repair
>>> without taking the generator out. You just run the generator all the
>>> way out on it's slide, then climb under there. I'm actually able to
>>> sit up once I'm in there, so my head & upper body is in the cavity
>>> where the generator sits when closed. Much more comfortable to work
>> in
>>> a sitting position vs. laying on my back. Take the back "vent" thing
>>> off, remove the brushes, relays (I think that's what those two
>> little
>>> silver things are), voltage regulator and all other wires. Mark them
>>> and/or take pictures so you know what goes where (I'll provide my
>> own
>>> pictures and a better write-up when I'm done). Remove all of the
>> bolts
>>> holding the rear "cap" onto the generator and remove that cap.
>>>
>>> Now you have access. De-solder the two wires on the old slip rings
>> and
>>> carefully move them out of the way. Use a gear puller to remove the
>>> bearing and slip rings. This is where I'm at. Then, just re-assemble
>>> with new parts. No need to pull the generator out of the coach and
>>> deal with fuel and coolant lines, oil, hydraulic lines and all that
>>> entails.
>>>
>>> Time spent: Probably 4 hours worth of actual work for me thus far,
>>> much of it spent trying to get that darn cap off the back of the
>>> generator. Finally took a long stick and tapped it out from the
>> front
>>> (thanks Ralph for the advice). Now that I know what I'm doing, I
>> think
>>> I could get to this point in half the time. In fact, with all of the
>>> (right!) parts on hand, I'm guessing I could do the entire job in 4
>> to
>>> 6 hours start to finish next time. That assumes there are no gotchas
>>> when I start putting it back together, but I can't see any from
>> here.
>>>
>>> If you've ever pulled the transmission out of a car, just dig in and
>>> do this. This job is a piece of cake by comparison. Well worth doing
>>> yourself - I've got a measly $100 into the parts. Very happy I
>> didn't
>>> spring for the 4 hour round trip drive and the $1600+ in labor to
>> get
>>> it done by the pros.
>>>
>>> This is a simplistic explanation but it's a good overview for those
>> of
>>> you itching to tackle this. As I said, I'll have lots of pictures
>> and
>>> a more detailed write-up of the procedure available on my web site
>>> once I'm done. I'll post a link at that time.
>>>
>>> -Ryan
>>> '86 PT-40 8V92, Yanmar powered Kohler 12.5kw genset
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 2:30 PM, Ryan Wright
>> wrote:
>>> > Hi Tom,
>>> >
>>> > My parts just arrived Friday night. I spent several hours under
>> the
>>> > coach this morning and am heading back down there in a little bit.
>>> > Yes, this can absolutely be done without removing the generator.
>> It's
>>> > not all that difficult, really. I'll have pictures and such ready
>> here
>>> > in another week or two. Should have mine finished up by tomorrow
>> if I
>>> > don't run into any problems.
>>> >
>>> > -Ryan
>>> >
>>> > On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:10 PM, thomas_sorrentino
>>> > wrote:
>>> >> Ryan,
>>> >>
>>> >> Any progress on this yet? Tips? Shortcuts? Does it seem like it
>> can
>>> >> be done without removing the generator? I'm getting ready to do
>> mine
>>> >> soon.
>>> >>
>>> >> Tom Sorrentino
>>> >> 1987 PT38
>>> >> Bedford Hills, NY
>>> >
>>>
>>
>>
>

[thomas_sorrentino]

Ryan,
From what I can see of my slip ring it looks worn just like yours. I
read somewhere that low/no brush spring tension causes that. My spec
number is 135013, three after yours. Please let me know the correct
part number for your slip ring. I'm thinking about buying one to
have on hand, so I'll have two to choose from and be able to finish
the job. Then send the one I don't use back.
The other part they sent you "thin metal strap". I'm not sure if
it's the same thing, but when I installed new brushes, there was a
metal shim on the brush holder mount. I assume to adjust the brushes
to line up with the slip rings. Thanks again for your help.

Tom Sorrentino
1987 PT38
Bedford Hills, NY


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> They sent me the same exact part # you have.
>
> Here's a picture of my old slip ring:
http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/slipring.jpg
>
> Just look at the wear on that son of a gun! No wonder it was eating
> through brushes. You can also clearly see the inside of the slip
ring.
> Note, no notch. Instead there are those very tiny splines. The
shaft
> on my generator has corresponding splines. My Kohler is model
12.5cc,
> spec 135010.
>
> They also sent me a "Ring, tolerance", part # 238211. I didn't
order
> it. It's a thin metal strap looking thing. Not sure if they
assumed I
> would need it or not, but I've no idea where it would go, as I
don't
> have anything like this on my generator. I guess I'll find out
Monday
> when I talk to them.
>
> -Ryan
>
> On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 3:56 AM, thomas_sorrentino
> wrote:
> > Ryan,
> >
> > Thanks for the update. Excellent information. I'm all geared up
to do
> > this at Tom Warners rally next weekend. You've got me wondering
about
> > having the correct slip rings though. The new one I have sounds
just
> > like the one they had sent you (has a large key notch). On the
box
> > it's part number 359447, description ring collector. Is it
possible
> > to post any photo's of what you got and what your suppose to
have? My
> > private e-mail is tomsorrentino at hotmail dot com.
> > Also I'm really curious to see if your old slip ring is worn like
> > mine?
> > Thanks again.
> >
> > Tom Sorrentino
> > 1987 PT38
> > Bedford Hills, NY
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> Update: Looks like they sent me the wrong slip rings. My shaft &
> > slip
> >> rings have a bunch of tiny splines that hold it in place. The
slip
> >> ring set they shipped me has a large key-notch in it. Bummer -
I'll
> >> have to call them Monday morning and get this straightened out.
> >>
> >> So far, though, folks, this looks to be a relatively easy repair
> >> without taking the generator out. You just run the generator
all the
> >> way out on it's slide, then climb under there. I'm actually
able to
> >> sit up once I'm in there, so my head & upper body is in the
cavity
> >> where the generator sits when closed. Much more comfortable to
work
> > in
> >> a sitting position vs. laying on my back. Take the back "vent"
thing
> >> off, remove the brushes, relays (I think that's what those two
> > little
> >> silver things are), voltage regulator and all other wires. Mark
them
> >> and/or take pictures so you know what goes where (I'll provide
my
> > own
> >> pictures and a better write-up when I'm done). Remove all of the
> > bolts
> >> holding the rear "cap" onto the generator and remove that cap.
> >>
> >> Now you have access. De-solder the two wires on the old slip
rings
> > and
> >> carefully move them out of the way. Use a gear puller to remove
the
> >> bearing and slip rings. This is where I'm at. Then, just re-
assemble
> >> with new parts. No need to pull the generator out of the coach
and
> >> deal with fuel and coolant lines, oil, hydraulic lines and all
that
> >> entails.
> >>
> >> Time spent: Probably 4 hours worth of actual work for me thus
far,
> >> much of it spent trying to get that darn cap off the back of the
> >> generator. Finally took a long stick and tapped it out from the
> > front
> >> (thanks Ralph for the advice). Now that I know what I'm doing, I
> > think
> >> I could get to this point in half the time. In fact, with all
of the
> >> (right!) parts on hand, I'm guessing I could do the entire job
in 4
> > to
> >> 6 hours start to finish next time. That assumes there are no
gotchas
> >> when I start putting it back together, but I can't see any from
> > here.
> >>
> >> If you've ever pulled the transmission out of a car, just dig
in and
> >> do this. This job is a piece of cake by comparison. Well worth
doing
> >> yourself - I've got a measly $100 into the parts. Very happy I
> > didn't
> >> spring for the 4 hour round trip drive and the $1600+ in labor
to
> > get
> >> it done by the pros.
> >>
> >> This is a simplistic explanation but it's a good overview for
those
> > of
> >> you itching to tackle this. As I said, I'll have lots of
pictures
> > and
> >> a more detailed write-up of the procedure available on my web
site
> >> once I'm done. I'll post a link at that time.
> >>
> >> -Ryan
> >> '86 PT-40 8V92, Yanmar powered Kohler 12.5kw genset
> >>
> >>
> >> On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 2:30 PM, Ryan Wright
> > wrote:
> >> > Hi Tom,
> >> >
> >> > My parts just arrived Friday night. I spent several hours
under
> > the
> >> > coach this morning and am heading back down there in a little
bit.
> >> > Yes, this can absolutely be done without removing the
generator.
> > It's
> >> > not all that difficult, really. I'll have pictures and such
ready
> > here
> >> > in another week or two. Should have mine finished up by
tomorrow
> > if I
> >> > don't run into any problems.
> >> >
> >> > -Ryan
> >> >
> >> > On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:10 PM, thomas_sorrentino
> >> > wrote:
> >> >> Ryan,
> >> >>
> >> >> Any progress on this yet? Tips? Shortcuts? Does it seem like
it
> > can
> >> >> be done without removing the generator? I'm getting ready to
do
> > mine
> >> >> soon.
> >> >>
> >> >> Tom Sorrentino
> >> >> 1987 PT38
> >> >> Bedford Hills, NY
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
>

[Ryan Wright]

Nah - I don't think I need the metal strap thing they sent me. It's
definitely not the metal shim. I'm going to send it back. I asked why
they sent it and the parts guy didn't really know, other than it said
"ring" in the description and he thought it might be related to the
slip rings.

You saw Ralph's message off-list with the right part number. Per
Kohler, the correct part number of 238134 has been replaced by 359447.
You can't get the 238134 anymore. My distributer said that my spec
number referenced 238134, but looking that up pointed him to the
supposedly new/improved part 359447. Of course, the parts are entirely
different in the way they mate to the drive shaft. He's going to call
Kohler and find out what the deal is. I'm going to do the same.

On the brush/spring tension, it's certainly possible. Per Ralph's
advice I'm going to triple check the grounds as well, but I'm
replacing the springs. I already bought new brushes, springs, brush
holder (why not, it was only twenty bucks), bearing, etc. I figure if
I'm in there, might as well replace it all. These little parts are
dirt cheap. I've got a whopping hundred bucks into this repair
including spare brushes & springs to keep on board.

-Ryan

On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 6:12 AM, thomas_sorrentino
wrote:
> Ryan,
> From what I can see of my slip ring it looks worn just like yours. I
> read somewhere that low/no brush spring tension causes that. My spec
> number is 135013, three after yours. Please let me know the correct
> part number for your slip ring. I'm thinking about buying one to
> have on hand, so I'll have two to choose from and be able to finish
> the job. Then send the one I don't use back.
> The other part they sent you "thin metal strap". I'm not sure if
> it's the same thing, but when I installed new brushes, there was a
> metal shim on the brush holder mount. I assume to adjust the brushes
> to line up with the slip rings. Thanks again for your help.
>
> Tom Sorrentino
> 1987 PT38
> Bedford Hills, NY
>

[Ryan Wright]

Hey folks,

This job is done. My generator is running again. Granted I only ran it
for a couple of minutes to test things, but it's all looking good. God
willing it will be good for the next 1800 hours of operation.

Sometime in the next few days I'll have a how-to, complete with
pictures, on my web site. I'll post a link here when it's done.

Not really a bad job. Certainly the most difficult job I've performed
on my coach, but nowhere near the most difficult automotive job I've
done. The average back yard mechanic could do this in a weekend easy.
I'm just an average, mostly self taught guy. I think I spent ~10 hours
or so in total under the coach.

Huge thanks to Ralph Fullenwider, without his advice early on I would
not have attempted this, and without his advice in the middle of it I
might have given up. The tricks I learned from him will be detailed in
my write-up for all to see and enjoy.

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92


On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 11:31 AM, Ryan Wright wrote:
> Nah - I don't think I need the metal strap thing they sent me. It's
> definitely not the metal shim. I'm going to send it back. I asked why
> they sent it and the parts guy didn't really know, other than it said
> "ring" in the description and he thought it might be related to the
> slip rings.
>
> You saw Ralph's message off-list with the right part number. Per
> Kohler, the correct part number of 238134 has been replaced by 359447.
> You can't get the 238134 anymore. My distributer said that my spec
> number referenced 238134, but looking that up pointed him to the
> supposedly new/improved part 359447. Of course, the parts are entirely
> different in the way they mate to the drive shaft. He's going to call
> Kohler and find out what the deal is. I'm going to do the same.
>
> On the brush/spring tension, it's certainly possible. Per Ralph's
> advice I'm going to triple check the grounds as well, but I'm
> replacing the springs. I already bought new brushes, springs, brush
> holder (why not, it was only twenty bucks), bearing, etc. I figure if
> I'm in there, might as well replace it all. These little parts are
> dirt cheap. I've got a whopping hundred bucks into this repair
> including spare brushes & springs to keep on board.
>
> -Ryan
>
> On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 6:12 AM, thomas_sorrentino
> wrote:
>> Ryan,
>> From what I can see of my slip ring it looks worn just like yours. I
>> read somewhere that low/no brush spring tension causes that. My spec
>> number is 135013, three after yours. Please let me know the correct
>> part number for your slip ring. I'm thinking about buying one to
>> have on hand, so I'll have two to choose from and be able to finish
>> the job. Then send the one I don't use back.
>> The other part they sent you "thin metal strap". I'm not sure if
>> it's the same thing, but when I installed new brushes, there was a
>> metal shim on the brush holder mount. I assume to adjust the brushes
>> to line up with the slip rings. Thanks again for your help.
>>
>> Tom Sorrentino
>> 1987 PT38
>> Bedford Hills, NY
>>
>