1980 35FC won't start via the ignition, please help

[Adria Haynes]

Mike, what one... where? Can I jump acrossed it to test it?

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Hohnstein"
<MHOHNSTEIN@...> wrote:
>
> That there solinoid/relay on the frame rail is critical to provide
enough amperage to the cylindrical soliniod on top of the starter.
The automotive key switch will not cycle the starter, the relay is
required.
> MH
>

[Bruce Morris]

John, since Blue Birds are builders of both the chassis and the coach
they don't have the traditional chassis fuse panel you are used to
seeing. Most of the chassis related wiring is in the front load center
which you have opened up on the front driver's side.

.

Bruce Morris in Raleigh, NC
Phone: (919)872-7635 Cell: (919)740-8941 (Verizon)
Wanderlodge Owners Online <http://www.wanderlodge.us> Webmaster

1983 FC35RB
FMCA# 7142s VB KI4ME
Vietnam Vet - 1966-67 3rd MarDiv Navy Corpsman "DOC"



Adria Haynes wrote:
>
> Thanks Jim, Great tips and help - I'll try to give those a try. Can
> you give me a quick heads up as to where the neutral safety switch
> is at on the tranny?
>
> Expecting to have to be under theere again, when I started it via
> hotwire last time, I let it run until the suspension fully aired up.
> I then stacked 4x4 wood beams under the frame, and in the day that
> followed - as the bags let out - it settled nicely on the wood - so
> I do feel very safe under there.
>
> Also, again - is there or is there NOT a chassis fuse panel, and if
> so, where can I find it?
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , "bluebird3208"
> wrote:
> >
> > John since you have done to obvious you will now have to trace the
> > problem out. I would start by bypassing the neutral saftery
> switch
> > on the transmission. A jumper with aligator clips is the simplist
> way
> > to do this. Be very careful getting under the bus. Do not rely
> ont
> > the air bags or jacks. If that does not do it then you will need
> to
> > trace out the problem. To save pulling the Ignition switch out
> > prematuraly use a test light or multimeter. have someone hold the
> key
> > over and see if you get voltage on either side of the neutral
> safety
> > switch. If you have power there than the problem is the
> connection
> > to from the neutral saftey harness to the solinoid. If you do not
> > have power there then I would suspect that your ignition switch
> has
> > given up the ghost. Run a continuity test across the neutral
> safety
> > switch to make certain that it is good. Then put the wires back on
> > it. Remove the ignition switch so that you can get to the back of
> it.
> > Leave the wires on it. Try jumping from the battery side to the
> > stater side of the switch if she turns over you have a bad
> switch.
> > If not you missed something underneath. One last thought... Pull
> the
> > dash and make sure you are getting a circut throught the A/T
> switch.
> >
> > Good Luck
> >
> > Jim
> > 83 FC
> > Yorba Linda, ca
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , "Adria Haynes"
> > <mrbeebody@> wrote:
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mike Hohnstein]

curb side frame rail adjacent to the starter. Looks like the large relays
behind the drivers side swing panel.
MH
----- Original Message -----
From: Adria Haynes
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 9:56 AM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 1980 35FC won't start via the ignition, please
help


Mike, what one... where? Can I jump acrossed it to test it?

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Hohnstein"
<MHOHNSTEIN@...> wrote:
>
> That there solinoid/relay on the frame rail is critical to provide
enough amperage to the cylindrical soliniod on top of the starter.
The automotive key switch will not cycle the starter, the relay is
required.
> MH
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Adria Haynes]

Well on mine, The big lug on the starter was hot, and the one onthe
solenoid was not. There was only one wire to the solenoid, and when
I tried to trace it, it went into a bundle and headed for the front.

I WILL look again, but I honestly don't think that mine has a frame
mounted relay - a foot away from the starter - in line with the
solenoid hot like I keep reading about.

Frustrating.

Thanks you very much though.

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Hohnstein"
<MHOHNSTEIN@...> wrote:
>
> curb side frame rail adjacent to the starter. Looks like the
large relays behind the drivers side swing panel.
> MH
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Adria Haynes
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 9:56 AM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 1980 35FC won't start via the
ignition, please help
>
>
> Mike, what one... where? Can I jump acrossed it to test it?
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Hohnstein"
> <MHOHNSTEIN@> wrote:
> >
> > That there solinoid/relay on the frame rail is critical to
provide
> enough amperage to the cylindrical soliniod on top of the
starter.
> The automotive key switch will not cycle the starter, the relay
is
> required.
> > MH
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[pattypape]

Hi Adria,

I am late reading posts and have not read other responses.

But re-check the starter ground, or a simple test is to add one
battery jumper cable direct to the starter ground and attach the
other end to a clean chassis ground. It could also be connected
directly to the negative start battery post.

Bill 88 FC Michigan

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
<mrbeebody@...> wrote:
>
> Well on mine, The big lug on the starter was hot, and the one onthe
> solenoid was not. There was only one wire to the solenoid, and when
> I tried to trace it, it went into a bundle and headed for the front.
>
> I WILL look again, but I honestly don't think that mine has a frame
> mounted relay - a foot away from the starter - in line with the
> solenoid hot like I keep reading about.
>
> Frustrating.
>
> Thanks you very much though.
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Hohnstein"
> <MHOHNSTEIN@> wrote:
> >
> > curb side frame rail adjacent to the starter. Looks like the
> large relays behind the drivers side swing panel.
> > MH
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Adria Haynes
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 9:56 AM
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 1980 35FC won't start via the
> ignition, please help
> >
> >
> > Mike, what one... where? Can I jump acrossed it to test it?
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Hohnstein"
> > <MHOHNSTEIN@> wrote:
> > >
> > > That there solinoid/relay on the frame rail is critical to
> provide
> > enough amperage to the cylindrical soliniod on top of the
> starter.
> > The automotive key switch will not cycle the starter, the relay
> is
> > required.
> > > MH
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

[Tom Meservey]

Hi John, On my '81 (and I will bet the '80 is probably the same) it takes a GMC
(5 pole push on) ignition switch. I took mine out, marking where the wires go
with great care, and went NAPA and got a new one, and unfortunately it made no
difference. Some one on the group suggested that I check the hot wire that runs
from the ignition to the push/pull head light switch and sure enough, it was so
badly corroded that (the dimmer portion) that if was causing a problem with the
ignition switch. Well I had the new ignition switch in anyhow and left it ( I
now have a spare ) and bought a new headlight switch and that seemed to fix my
problem.

Having said all this, because of the way my ignition switch is mounted, if I
did it over again, I would make sure I put in 'screw on connectors' rather than
the "push on" ones. Many times the push on ones have fallen off until I crimped
them onto the terminals. Hope this helps.

I have my coach tentatively sold for the "buy it now" price, the guy is coming
from CA to check it out.

Best regards.

Tom Meservey, USN (Ret)
Ladson, SC

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[g]

Just to chime in with John,
Same kinda issue. Bad Ignition switch. If you change it out be sure and use bolt
type terminals
Glenn Shehorn
83FC35
Kansas City, mo


----- Original Message -----
From: Adria Haynes
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 8:16 AM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] 1980 35FC won't start via the ignition, please
help


The name showing is Adria, who is my fair and lovely bride. I
hijacked her ID to ask for help and my name is John.

I'm more of a lurker than anything else, and I HAVE used the search
function and done some reading, but I still need some help very
badly. Please help if you can.

We have a 1980 35FC. The batteries are new and charged, but when you
hit the key there is nothing going on. My hots and grounds are good
at the starter, but not at the solenoid when the key is in the start
position. I was able to start it by jumping the hot over to the
solenoid and despite having just been sitting there for MONTHS, the
ole sweetie fired right up and just purred like a sewing machine.

So, I've since spoken with a few people who thought that it could be
a neutral safety switch on the trans. Remembering my dad had a
similar problem on an old motorhome he had, I used his method and
ran the shifter back and forth about 30 times in a lazy man's
attempt to gain a conection at said switch. Much to nobody's
surprise, that did not help.

I opened up the panel at nose of the bus (by my feet) and I see that
there is the most wonderful rainbow of wiring I could have ever
expected, and 3 or 4 solenoids down there as well. All those
solenoids show to be hot on all posts except for the ones that are
supposed to be ground.

The scematic, although in greek, shows fuses and circuit breakers.
I gather that the wiring in the nose is what it's referring to as
the circuit breakers, but with the key on - every one of them shows
hot as I would have expected, and I cannot for the LIFE of me locate
a fuse panel for the chassis.

As you know, there are a few fuses in the battery area, a few in the
overhead area, and I can't find any others.

So now that you know a little about what I have going on, I would
GREATLY appreciate any and all advice you kind folks could offer.

I'm told that there is a relay that comes BEFORE the starter
solenoid, but I can't seem to locate it - or even if I was staring
at it, I wouldn't know what it is. DO you know where it is and/or
how to check it?

Please don't laugh, but is there even a chassis fuse panel for me to
check a starter fuse on - or is that about as "noob" as saying that
I can't find the carburator under the hood? If there IS a fuse
panel - where, in the name of all things holy, are they hiding the
dang thing??!!

I really need to get this baby going via the key ASAP. We have
Memorial day reservations and I'd rather not have to hotwire it to
go to and from - but if it's between that and telling the wife and
kids that we aren't going camping, you know I'll be under there rain
or shine.

I'm sure that the end solution to this problem will most likely be
laughable, but until then, I really need help and it doesn't seem
very amusing just yet. Thanks in advance and I will try to reply
ASAP with any return questions that you may have for me.

Peace,
John





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]