Water Heater

[ragster_ga]

Howard,
I'd be happy to give you a hand....I will provide the Fried Chicken

Glenn

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Howard O. Truitt"
wrote:
>
> Glenn,
> If I ever need to replace mine I will come up to the land of the
Big Chicken for a visit.
> Does sound like an item that should be visually checked at least
anually for leaks.
> Howard T., Camilla, Ga. 86, 8V92, PT40
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ragster_ga
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 8:29 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Water Heater
>
>
> Howard,
>
> When I purchased my 1986 PT-40 about a month ago, I was aware
that it
> has a failed hot water heater. I did a casual inspection of the
> heater, but not through enough. While I did plan on replacing the
> HWH, I was not aware nor did the prev. owner enlighten me that
the
> HWH has been leaking for a very long time.
>
> When I went to replaced the HWH and disassembled the right rear
> corner for access, I discovered wood decay in the sub flooring
under
> all the rear cabinets and under the raised deck portion of the
queen
> bed. The area was covered so that is was not evident by casual
> inspection. I believe the unit was stored with a forward slope so
> the leaking water drained forward and caused the problem.
>
> A long story short, I removed all of the rear cabinets and
replaced
> all the decking on the bed and under the rear cabinets. I
replaced
> the HWH with the Atwood Stainless Steel HWH hoping that it will
have
> a longer life that the standard unit.
>
> While the effort was time consuming, I was impressed with the way
> BlueBird built the area in the back. The decayed wood was on top
of
> steel plate. Because of the primer and coating on the steel
plate,
> there was no rust anywhere the water had been. The only thing I
do
> not like, is the access to the HWH. Also, the rear cabinets are a
> real pain to remove and install.
>
> I received a quote from Camping World to replace the HWH with a
> standard HWH for about $800. This would not have included
replacing
> any damaged sub-flooring. I would hate to even try to guess at
the
> bill to do the work the I did myself. My total cost using my
labor
> and including the upgraded HWS was about $500.
>
> In hind sight, the area under the HWH should have a drain pan
with a
> drain going below the coach to avoid such problems.
>
> Regards,
>
> Glenn Allen
> Marietta, GA
> 1986 PT-40
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Howard O. Truitt"
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks all for location of water heater.
> > Sounds like a job for a pro.

[patticake592000]

Am in the process of removing some walls to replace a leaking
water heater.
To the people that have done this, I would like information on
what type was used, why, and how much plumbing changes were required.
Mine at this point is an Atwood, mod. #EHMII-SM. I do not know if it
is original or not. If it is, it sure had a good service life!

Steve Gureasko
90WBWL40 Jus Chillin
Ponchatoula, La.

[Rick A.]

Steve....I replaced mine with one of Birtles Force 10 units, very heavy
stainless and well
built, better than original. Unfortunately I had to remove/replace mine 4 times
for
different reasons (not the new water heaters fault). Consider it a "human
torture" fun
project w/ lots of body contortion. Perfect for Halloween time! First time took
4 hours to
remove.....4th time took 30 minutes. Have Ms Patticake hit you in the head with
a
hammer forming your head into a conehead shape and twisting your neck around so
it
swivels 180 degrees first will help! Step 1 disconnect electricity to coach and
drain
pressure from water system.(you get to do this project in the dark so bring a
flashlight)
Step 2 remove enough interior cabinetry/walls/floors etc to gain access to water
lines on
heater. Step 3 open the drain valve and begin draining it, loosen old water
lines at old
heater to allow air to enter, in engine compartment remove engine coolant lines
going to
heater and plug on coach side, have bucket ready. When drained completely much
easier
to wrestle with. Step 4 remove screws holding unit to floor if you haven't
already and
remove additional cabinetry/walls to allow unit to swivel to access the electric
line..
remove that. Step 5 remove old unit, be sure its empty first!
I used simple stainless flexible water lines available at any hardware store
to reconnect
adding ball valves. The mid 80's pt's compartment has to be modified slightly,
but yours
being newer, you may not have to do this. Be sure and check the platform it sits
on as
any leak will rot the wood base...mine had to be rebuilt. I also insulated
between the
water heater and the rear air conditioner while I was in there because it did
not seem
very smart to be drawing return air for the rear air conditioner from around a
10 gallon
tank of almost boiling water?
Your removal/install will be different than on my 85 of course, but hopefully
this helps
some? If nothing else it will make MsPatticake feel better after working you
over with a
hammer.
Electroylsis is the culprit which destroys the water heater... It is in any
object, coach,
boat, etc which has different fields of electricity and of course water going
thru it....and
even thru dissimilar metals as we know....best solution is to get the best built
water
heater you can afford and expect it to last only 10-15 years.

Rick Archie
85PT40 "Fort R"
Fort Worth

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "patticake592000" <sgureasko@...>
wrote:
>
> Am in the process of removing some walls to replace a leaking
> water heater.
> To the people that have done this, I would like information on
> what type was used, why, and how much plumbing changes were required.
> Mine at this point is an Atwood, mod. #EHMII-SM. I do not know if it
> is original or not. If it is, it sure had a good service life!
>
> Steve Gureasko
> 90WBWL40 Jus Chillin
> Ponchatoula, La.
>

[Gregory OConnor]

try and orientate the replacement tank so future electrc heater
element replacement is easy. There was a thread on a
homemade 'emptywater tank electric cutoff device' (JayD)that may
explan extra wires to the tank.
Greg94ptCa
--- In WanderlodgeForum@..., "Rick A."
wrote:
>
> Steve....I replaced mine with one of Birtles Force 10 units, very
heavy stainless and well
> built, better than original. Unfortunately I had to remove/replace
mine 4 times for
> different reasons (not the new water heaters fault). Consider it
a "human torture" fun
> project w/ lots of body contortion. Perfect for Halloween time!
First time took 4 hours to
> remove.....4th time took 30 minutes. Have Ms Patticake hit you in
the head with a
> hammer forming your head into a conehead shape and twisting your
neck around so it
> swivels 180 degrees first will help! Step 1 disconnect electricity
to coach and drain
> pressure from water system.(you get to do this project in the dark
so bring a flashlight)
> Step 2 remove enough interior cabinetry/walls/floors etc to gain
access to water lines on
> heater. Step 3 open the drain valve and begin draining it, loosen
old water lines at old
> heater to allow air to enter, in engine compartment remove engine
coolant lines going to
> heater and plug on coach side, have bucket ready. When drained
completely much easier
> to wrestle with. Step 4 remove screws holding unit to floor if you
haven't already and
> remove additional cabinetry/walls to allow unit to swivel to access
the electric line..
> remove that. Step 5 remove old unit, be sure its empty first!
> I used simple stainless flexible water lines available at any
hardware store to reconnect
> adding ball valves. The mid 80's pt's compartment has to be
modified slightly, but yours
> being newer, you may not have to do this. Be sure and check the
platform it sits on as
> any leak will rot the wood base...mine had to be rebuilt. I also
insulated between the
> water heater and the rear air conditioner while I was in there
because it did not seem
> very smart to be drawing return air for the rear air conditioner
from around a 10 gallon
> tank of almost boiling water?
> Your removal/install will be different than on my 85 of course,
but hopefully this helps
> some? If nothing else it will make MsPatticake feel better after
working you over with a
> hammer.
> Electroylsis is the culprit which destroys the water heater...
It is in any object, coach,
> boat, etc which has different fields of electricity and of course
water going thru it....and
> even thru dissimilar metals as we know....best solution is to get
the best built water
> heater you can afford and expect it to last only 10-15 years.
>
> Rick Archie
> 85PT40 "Fort R"
> Fort Worth
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "patticake592000"
<sgureasko@> wrote:
> >
> > Am in the process of removing some walls to replace a leaking
> > water heater.
> > To the people that have done this, I would like information on
> > what type was used, why, and how much plumbing changes were
required.
> > Mine at this point is an Atwood, mod. #EHMII-SM. I do not know
if it
> > is original or not. If it is, it sure had a good service life!
> >
> > Steve Gureasko
> > 90WBWL40 Jus Chillin
> > Ponchatoula, La.
> >
>

[Dan Williams]

I changed from a 6 gal seaward to a 10 gal
kuuma. It used some of my closet space because it was too tall to go back
in the original location but I really wanted longer hotter showers. At
first I tried to use an electric tankless water heater but the amp draw was too
much. If I had to do it over again I would try a tankless propane water
heater. BTW, my old wh came out through the closet so I didn’t
remove any walls, just a couple of panels.

Dan Williams, 88pt38, Jackson, MS

---

From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of patticake592000

Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008
9:33 PM

To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Water
Heater

Am in the process of removing some walls to replace a
leaking

water heater.

To the people that have done this, I would like information on

what type was used, why, and how much plumbing changes were required.

Mine at this point is an Atwood, mod. #EHMII-SM. I do not know if it

is original or not. If it is, it sure had a good service life!



Steve Gureasko

90WBWL40 Jus Chillin

Ponchatoula, La.

[Gregory OConnor]

Steve, here is the thread on the waterheater thing. JayD and RalphF. post 27391

Greg94ptca
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "patticake592000" <sgureasko@...> wrote:
>
> Am in the process of removing some walls to replace a leaking
> water heater.
> To the people that have done this, I would like information on
> what type was used, why, and how much plumbing changes were required.
> Mine at this point is an Atwood, mod. #EHMII-SM. I do not know if it
> is original or not. If it is, it sure had a good service life!
>
> Steve Gureasko
> 90WBWL40 Jus Chillin
> Ponchatoula, La.
>