water heater water sensor

[Jay Darst]

While replumbing the new water heater, found a sensor that is 1/2"NPT
that has a single, very small wire that runs over to a relay which
powers the 120V to the water heater.

Appears to be a safety device so that the heating element is not ruined
when there is no water present.

The sensor I removed is severly corroded.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a replacement?

Thanks
Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield/Sullivan, IL
Shopping hard for my next Prevost to turn...and keeping my old Bird
which I love dearly.

[Richard Hayden]

Jay,
If I'm not mistaken, these were a BB thingy and build by them in house.

Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA

----- Original Message -----
From: Jay Darst
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 7:56 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] water heater water sensor


While replumbing the new water heater, found a sensor that is 1/2"NPT
that has a single, very small wire that runs over to a relay which
powers the 120V to the water heater.

Appears to be a safety device so that the heating element is not ruined
when there is no water present.

The sensor I removed is severly corroded.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a replacement?

Thanks
Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield/Sullivan, IL
Shopping hard for my next Prevost to turn...and keeping my old Bird
which I love dearly.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ryan Wright]

Jay,

Is it a float switch, or a contact water sensor, or what?

If a float switch, these are easy to find. Check Grainger or
McMaster-Carr, they have lots of 'em to choose from. If it's a water
presence sensor as opposed to a level sensor, do a Google search for
"liquid sensor" - there were several interesting results. ("water
sensor" is not a great search term - you'll get a lot of consumer
grade junk. The term "liquid" will turn up more industrial sites where
you have a better chance of getting something that can actuate a relay
and will probably last longer, too.)

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92
Tri-Cities, WA

On 9/1/07, Jay Darst wrote:
>
> While replumbing the new water heater, found a sensor that is 1/2"NPT
> that has a single, very small wire that runs over to a relay which
> powers the 120V to the water heater.
>
> Appears to be a safety device so that the heating element is not ruined
> when there is no water present.
>
> The sensor I removed is severly corroded.
>
> Can anyone point me in the direction of a replacement?
>
> Thanks
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40
> Springfield/Sullivan, IL
> Shopping hard for my next Prevost to turn...and keeping my old Bird
> which I love dearly.
>

[Jay Darst]

In case anyone wants to know...

Ralph Fullenwider had the find/fix for this...

"Making one is faster for me, Ace hardware and get a pvc plug, I
can't
remember the size off hand Jay, but any grey 2 part epoxy will do and
a brass machine screw with 2 nuts with washers between them.

The screw goes through the plug in a hole you drill, I taped mine to
get a tighter fit and have more adjustment on the length and of
course epoxy seal.

Then end of the screw goes out to just even or slightly past the
concave of the inside of the edge of the plug.

This is a BB part, no one else uses this type of sensor. but hell, it
is nothing to make one, put a screw in it, drip epoxy on both sides
and let the new home made sensor sit for 24 hours then install it.

JB Weld is a good choice."

Thanks Ralph!!!!!!

Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield/Sullivan, IL

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
wrote:
>
> While replumbing the new water heater, found a sensor that is
1/2"NPT
> that has a single, very small wire that runs over to a relay which
> powers the 120V to the water heater.
>
> Appears to be a safety device so that the heating element is not
ruined
> when there is no water present.
>
> The sensor I removed is severly corroded.
>
> Can anyone point me in the direction of a replacement?
>
> Thanks
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40
> Springfield/Sullivan, IL
> Shopping hard for my next Prevost to turn...and keeping my old Bird
> which I love dearly.
>

[Jay Darst]

THE HOMEMADE SENSOR COMPLETES THE GROUND FOR THE RELAY. THE RELAY
ENERGIZES AND THE WATER HEATER NOW HAS 120V.

I made 3 of them. I used a brass fitting, I think its called a
bushing. It has 1/2"NPT on the outside and 3/8"NPT threads on the
inside. I used a stainless steel machine screw, couldn't find a brass
machine screw.

Run a washer and a nut down nearlY to the head of the machine screw,
leaving room to easily attach an electrical connector. Then using a
leather punch, put a hole in a piece of cardboard just a little
smaller than the machine screw. The cardboard should be larger than
the overall fitting. Now set the machine screw, washer, nut and
cardboard on something that will keep the naked end of the machine
screw facing toward the sky.

Now set the brass fitting over the machine screw so that it does not
touch the screw. The brass fitting is now sitting on the cardboard,
strattling the machine screw. Drip epoxy in the brass fitting til its
nearly full.

Let it set for 2 hours- don't mess with it.

AFTER 2 hours, remove the cardboard. It'll be stuck to the epoxy so
just scrape it off.

I tested the finished product in a bowl of water with ohm
meter/continuity tester, werks grate!

Thanks again RALPH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Its Sunday night and I'm dam near done with the water heater
replacement. Need a couple brass fittings to finish up the cold water
line to heater.

Replacing the water heater is a PIA.

I'm glad its dam near behind me now ;~}

If anyone needs a sensor, I have 2 more left over.

Did I say THANKS RALPH?!!

Jay Darst
85PT40
Springfield/Sullivan, IL

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
wrote:
>
> In case anyone wants to know...
>
> Ralph Fullenwider had the find/fix for this...
>
> "Making one is faster for me, Ace hardware and get a pvc plug, I
> can't
> remember the size off hand Jay, but any grey 2 part epoxy will do
and
> a brass machine screw with 2 nuts with washers between them.
>
> The screw goes through the plug in a hole you drill, I taped mine
to
> get a tighter fit and have more adjustment on the length and of
> course epoxy seal.
>
> Then end of the screw goes out to just even or slightly past the
> concave of the inside of the edge of the plug.
>
> This is a BB part, no one else uses this type of sensor. but hell,
it
> is nothing to make one, put a screw in it, drip epoxy on both sides
> and let the new home made sensor sit for 24 hours then install it.
>
> JB Weld is a good choice."
> >
> > While replumbing the new water heater, found a sensor that is
> 1/2"NPT
> > that has a single, very small wire that runs over to a relay which
> > powers the 120V to the water heater.
> >
> > Appears to be a safety device so that the heating element is not
> ruined
> > when there is no water present.
> >
> > The sensor I removed is severly corroded.
> >
> > Can anyone point me in the direction of a replacement?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Jay Darst
> > 85PT40
> > Springfield/Sullivan, IL
> > Shopping hard for my next Prevost to turn...and keeping my old
Bird
> > which I love dearly.
> >
>

[Gregory OConnor]

Cool deal, I lost a heating element because I did not fill the tank
prior to plugging the coach into shorepower with the waterheater
switch turned on. Campingworld said It takes less than 30 seconds
of dry runtime to cook an element. I considered a magnetic switch
for turning the water heater on (like a tablesaw switch). I would
shure like to hang a lp waterheater outside. the big lp fuel tank is
wasted on minor demand of cook top and refer.

I wonder what OHM continuity is on water that is deionized???? would
it be more conductive or less???
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa



--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
wrote:
>
> THE HOMEMADE SENSOR COMPLETES THE GROUND FOR THE RELAY. THE RELAY
> ENERGIZES AND THE WATER HEATER NOW HAS 120V.
>
> I made 3 of them. I used a brass fitting, I think its called a
> bushing. It has 1/2"NPT on the outside and 3/8"NPT threads on the
> inside. I used a stainless steel machine screw, couldn't find a
brass
> machine screw.
>
> Run a washer and a nut down nearlY to the head of the machine
screw,
> leaving room to easily attach an electrical connector. Then using a
> leather punch, put a hole in a piece of cardboard just a little
> smaller than the machine screw. The cardboard should be larger than
> the overall fitting. Now set the machine screw, washer, nut and
> cardboard on something that will keep the naked end of the machine
> screw facing toward the sky.
>
> Now set the brass fitting over the machine screw so that it does
not
> touch the screw. The brass fitting is now sitting on the cardboard,
> strattling the machine screw. Drip epoxy in the brass fitting til
its
> nearly full.
>
> Let it set for 2 hours- don't mess with it.
>
> AFTER 2 hours, remove the cardboard. It'll be stuck to the epoxy so
> just scrape it off.
>
> I tested the finished product in a bowl of water with ohm
> meter/continuity tester, werks grate!
>
> Thanks again RALPH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Its Sunday night and I'm dam near done with the water heater
> replacement. Need a couple brass fittings to finish up the cold
water
> line to heater.
>
> Replacing the water heater is a PIA.
>
> I'm glad its dam near behind me now ;~}
>
> If anyone needs a sensor, I have 2 more left over.
>
> Did I say THANKS RALPH?!!
>
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40
> Springfield/Sullivan, IL
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
> wrote:
> >
> > In case anyone wants to know...
> >
> > Ralph Fullenwider had the find/fix for this...
> >
> > "Making one is faster for me, Ace hardware and get a pvc plug, I
> > can't
> > remember the size off hand Jay, but any grey 2 part epoxy will do
> and
> > a brass machine screw with 2 nuts with washers between them.
> >
> > The screw goes through the plug in a hole you drill, I taped mine
> to
> > get a tighter fit and have more adjustment on the length and of
> > course epoxy seal.
> >
> > Then end of the screw goes out to just even or slightly past the
> > concave of the inside of the edge of the plug.
> >
> > This is a BB part, no one else uses this type of sensor. but
hell,
> it
> > is nothing to make one, put a screw in it, drip epoxy on both
sides
> > and let the new home made sensor sit for 24 hours then install
it.
> >
> > JB Weld is a good choice."
> > >
> > > While replumbing the new water heater, found a sensor that is
> > 1/2"NPT
> > > that has a single, very small wire that runs over to a relay
which
> > > powers the 120V to the water heater.
> > >
> > > Appears to be a safety device so that the heating element is
not
> > ruined
> > > when there is no water present.
> > >
> > > The sensor I removed is severly corroded.
> > >
> > > Can anyone point me in the direction of a replacement?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Jay Darst
> > > 85PT40
> > > Springfield/Sullivan, IL
> > > Shopping hard for my next Prevost to turn...and keeping my old
> Bird
> > > which I love dearly.
> > >
> >
>

[bloomas]

----- Original Message -----
From: Gregory OConnor
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 11:44 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: water heater water sensor
Gregory There is a 1988 PT 40 in northern Ca. that the old water heater was
replace with a lp water heater installed in the same space that the old came out
of and it is vented to the out side.It also has a 120 volt element.
Bob Loomas 1985 PT 36


Cool deal, I lost a heating element because I did not fill the tank
prior to plugging the coach into shorepower with the waterheater
switch turned on. Campingworld said It takes less than 30 seconds
of dry runtime to cook an element. I considered a magnetic switch
for turning the water heater on (like a tablesaw switch). I would
shure like to hang a lp waterheater outside. the big lp fuel tank is
wasted on minor demand of cook top and refer.

I wonder what OHM continuity is on water that is deionized???? would
it be more conductive or less???
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
wrote:
>
> THE HOMEMADE SENSOR COMPLETES THE GROUND FOR THE RELAY. THE RELAY
> ENERGIZES AND THE WATER HEATER NOW HAS 120V.
>
> I made 3 of them. I used a brass fitting, I think its called a
> bushing. It has 1/2"NPT on the outside and 3/8"NPT threads on the
> inside. I used a stainless steel machine screw, couldn't find a
brass
> machine screw.
>
> Run a washer and a nut down nearlY to the head of the machine
screw,
> leaving room to easily attach an electrical connector. Then using a
> leather punch, put a hole in a piece of cardboard just a little
> smaller than the machine screw. The cardboard should be larger than
> the overall fitting. Now set the machine screw, washer, nut and
> cardboard on something that will keep the naked end of the machine
> screw facing toward the sky.
>
> Now set the brass fitting over the machine screw so that it does
not
> touch the screw. The brass fitting is now sitting on the cardboard,
> strattling the machine screw. Drip epoxy in the brass fitting til
its
> nearly full.
>
> Let it set for 2 hours- don't mess with it.
>
> AFTER 2 hours, remove the cardboard. It'll be stuck to the epoxy so
> just scrape it off.
>
> I tested the finished product in a bowl of water with ohm
> meter/continuity tester, werks grate!
>
> Thanks again RALPH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Its Sunday night and I'm dam near done with the water heater
> replacement. Need a couple brass fittings to finish up the cold
water
> line to heater.
>
> Replacing the water heater is a PIA.
>
> I'm glad its dam near behind me now ;~}
>
> If anyone needs a sensor, I have 2 more left over.
>
> Did I say THANKS RALPH?!!
>
> Jay Darst
> 85PT40
> Springfield/Sullivan, IL
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Darst"
> wrote:
> >
> > In case anyone wants to know...
> >
> > Ralph Fullenwider had the find/fix for this...
> >
> > "Making one is faster for me, Ace hardware and get a pvc plug, I
> > can't
> > remember the size off hand Jay, but any grey 2 part epoxy will do
> and
> > a brass machine screw with 2 nuts with washers between them.
> >
> > The screw goes through the plug in a hole you drill, I taped mine
> to
> > get a tighter fit and have more adjustment on the length and of
> > course epoxy seal.
> >
> > Then end of the screw goes out to just even or slightly past the
> > concave of the inside of the edge of the plug.
> >
> > This is a BB part, no one else uses this type of sensor. but
hell,
> it
> > is nothing to make one, put a screw in it, drip epoxy on both
sides
> > and let the new home made sensor sit for 24 hours then install
it.
> >
> > JB Weld is a good choice."
> > >
> > > While replumbing the new water heater, found a sensor that is
> > 1/2"NPT
> > > that has a single, very small wire that runs over to a relay
which
> > > powers the 120V to the water heater.
> > >
> > > Appears to be a safety device so that the heating element is
not
> > ruined
> > > when there is no water present.
> > >
> > > The sensor I removed is severly corroded.
> > >
> > > Can anyone point me in the direction of a replacement?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Jay Darst
> > > 85PT40
> > > Springfield/Sullivan, IL
> > > Shopping hard for my next Prevost to turn...and keeping my old
> Bird
> > > which I love dearly.
> > >
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]