chassis heater problem

[erniecarpet@...]

Robert, I assume you have the front chassis thermostat set to a warmer temp.
And you have the winter/summer switch, the front heat switch to on.and the
aux pump switched to on.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Weatherford, Tx




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[erniecarpet@...]

Oh- and you can visually check your small water pumps to see that they are
moving- thus insuring coolant movement.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Weatherford, Tx




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Robert & Teri Rahn]

I have been trying to figure this situation out for several days now
and cant seem to solve it. The chassis heater under the sofa up front
and the dash heaters do not blow hot air, All the other ones work
great. This morning I replaced the two sporlan valves in the back
with manual valves to make sure they werent the problem and they
werent. The auxillary pump works and runs but is it possible that it
is not working good enough? I thought that there may be air in the
lines up front so I installed a valve with a female hose connector in
the wheelwell under the sofa chassis heater. There was a lot of
coolant in that line and it was quite a mess to put it on. I did put
hose pressure on after I installed it and it quickly started to
overflow out of the coolannt cap that was removed. I located a small
bleed screw on the line below the dash heater and coolant sprayed out
of it as soon as I loosened it.

What should I do, im sure puzzled. Should I put another t in
somewhere with a valve on either side and then hook the hose to it
and shut one side then the other to clear any possible blocks, or am
I overlooking some component.

Robert Rahn
88 pt 40
warner robins ga

[pattypape]

Robert,

Our front radiator FC has three Sporlan valves, and two gate valves,
although the drawing shows three gate valves.

Your rear radiator is probably plumbed different,
But my guess is: you have not found all the valves , look for
another Sporlan valve (maybe up front, near the cold heater) and
another gate valve.

Do you have a front heater switch on the dash??????

Bill 88 FC Michigan


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Robert & Teri Rahn"
wrote:
>
> I have been trying to figure this situation out for several days
now
> and cant seem to solve it. The chassis heater under the sofa up
front
> and the dash heaters do not blow hot air, All the other ones work
> great. This morning I replaced the two sporlan valves in the back
> with manual valves to make sure they werent the problem and they
> werent. The auxillary pump works and runs but is it possible that
it
> is not working good enough? I thought that there may be air in the
> lines up front so I installed a valve with a female hose connector
in
> the wheelwell under the sofa chassis heater. There was a lot of
> coolant in that line and it was quite a mess to put it on. I did
put
> hose pressure on after I installed it and it quickly started to
> overflow out of the coolannt cap that was removed. I located a
small
> bleed screw on the line below the dash heater and coolant sprayed
out
> of it as soon as I loosened it.
>
> What should I do, im sure puzzled. Should I put another t in
> somewhere with a valve on either side and then hook the hose to it
> and shut one side then the other to clear any possible blocks, or
am
> I overlooking some component.
>
> Robert Rahn
> 88 pt 40
> warner robins ga
>

[Robert & Teri Rahn]

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, erniecarpet@... wrote:
>The water pump is definately working and I cant find any more valves
other than the two sporlin valves and the five red handle valves. I
wish I had some sort of map showing where everything was going. I can
feel the lines up front and they are cold for sure and the ones in the
real are warm.
> Oh- and you can visually check your small water pumps to see that
they are
> moving- thus insuring coolant movement.
>
> Ernie Ekberg
> 83PT40
> Weatherford, Tx
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[erniecarpet@...]

Robert, maybe I should have been a little bit more clear on the pumps I was
referring too. I did not mean the engine water pump, rather the 2 small
booster pumps located by the sporlan valves. On mine, you can see the shaft
rotation when they are in operation.

Ernie Ekberg
83PT40
Weatherford, Tx




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[sfedeli3]

Robert,

It took me two years to figure out that one of the gate valves was not
opening- even though the handle was turning. My guess is that the gate
valve controlling flow to or from the front loop is closed-
permanently. I know I hated to do it, but eventually you should check
to make sure that the threads are not stripped in the gate on the
valves. Most of the innards can be removed without pulling the hoses
off. You just have to hold the body firmly with a large wrench while
unscrewing the valve shaft and gate assembly.

Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Robert & Teri Rahn"
wrote:
>
> I have been trying to figure this situation out for several days now
> and cant seem to solve it. The chassis heater under the sofa up front
> and the dash heaters do not blow hot air, All the other ones work
> great. This morning I replaced the two sporlan valves in the back
> with manual valves to make sure they werent the problem and they
> werent. The auxillary pump works and runs but is it possible that it
> is not working good enough? I thought that there may be air in the
> lines up front so I installed a valve with a female hose connector in
> the wheelwell under the sofa chassis heater. There was a lot of
> coolant in that line and it was quite a mess to put it on. I did put
> hose pressure on after I installed it and it quickly started to
> overflow out of the coolannt cap that was removed. I located a small
> bleed screw on the line below the dash heater and coolant sprayed out
> of it as soon as I loosened it.
>
> What should I do, im sure puzzled. Should I put another t in
> somewhere with a valve on either side and then hook the hose to it
> and shut one side then the other to clear any possible blocks, or am
> I overlooking some component.
>
> Robert Rahn
> 88 pt 40
> warner robins ga
>

[Robert & Teri Rahn]

Shane that is great news becaus the valve that seems to remain cold
is the one next to the transmission dipstick and looks to be very
difficult to remove. Is that the one that went bad on yours? RObert
-- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@...>
wrote:
>
> Robert,
>
> It took me two years to figure out that one of the gate valves was
not
> opening- even though the handle was turning. My guess is that the
gate
> valve controlling flow to or from the front loop is closed-
> permanently. I know I hated to do it, but eventually you should
check
> to make sure that the threads are not stripped in the gate on the
> valves. Most of the innards can be removed without pulling the hoses
> off. You just have to hold the body firmly with a large wrench while
> unscrewing the valve shaft and gate assembly.
>
> Shane Fedeli
> 85PT40
> Hershey, PA
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Robert & Teri Rahn"
> wrote:
> >
> > I have been trying to figure this situation out for several days
now
> > and cant seem to solve it. The chassis heater under the sofa up
front
> > and the dash heaters do not blow hot air, All the other ones work
> > great. This morning I replaced the two sporlan valves in the back
> > with manual valves to make sure they werent the problem and they
> > werent. The auxillary pump works and runs but is it possible that
it
> > is not working good enough? I thought that there may be air in
the
> > lines up front so I installed a valve with a female hose
connector in
> > the wheelwell under the sofa chassis heater. There was a lot of
> > coolant in that line and it was quite a mess to put it on. I did
put
> > hose pressure on after I installed it and it quickly started to
> > overflow out of the coolannt cap that was removed. I located a
small
> > bleed screw on the line below the dash heater and coolant sprayed
out
> > of it as soon as I loosened it.
> >
> > What should I do, im sure puzzled. Should I put another t in
> > somewhere with a valve on either side and then hook the hose to
it
> > and shut one side then the other to clear any possible blocks, or
am
> > I overlooking some component.
> >
> > Robert Rahn
> > 88 pt 40
> > warner robins ga
> >
>

[Howard O. Truitt]

Robert,
I have switch[s] on the dash that must be own for the front heaters to work.
Howard Truitt, Camilla, Ga. 86 PT40


----- Original Message -----
From: Robert & Teri Rahn
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 1:33 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] chassis heater problem


I have been trying to figure this situation out for several days now
and cant seem to solve it. The chassis heater under the sofa up front
and the dash heaters do not blow hot air, All the other ones work
great. This morning I replaced the two sporlan valves in the back
with manual valves to make sure they werent the problem and they
werent. The auxillary pump works and runs but is it possible that it
is not working good enough? I thought that there may be air in the
lines up front so I installed a valve with a female hose connector in
the wheelwell under the sofa chassis heater. There was a lot of
coolant in that line and it was quite a mess to put it on. I did put
hose pressure on after I installed it and it quickly started to
overflow out of the coolannt cap that was removed. I located a small
bleed screw on the line below the dash heater and coolant sprayed out
of it as soon as I loosened it.

What should I do, im sure puzzled. Should I put another t in
somewhere with a valve on either side and then hook the hose to it
and shut one side then the other to clear any possible blocks, or am
I overlooking some component.

Robert Rahn
88 pt 40
warner robins ga






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[sfedeli3]

Robert-

It was the valve that closes the line coming out of the water pump
body. I would have never known, had I not pulled the water pump and
replaced it this past summer. The gate valves are made to service, and
the cap around the shaft has threads and can be spun off- allowing you
to remove the gate altogether. Removing the whole valve assembly would
be nearly impossible without removing the water pump. Just be ready to
stuff a rag or some putty in the hole to keep the coolant from
draining while you shop around for a replacement gate. A large
plumbing supply house should be able to get you one.

-Shane

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Robert & Teri Rahn"
wrote:
>
> Shane that is great news becaus the valve that seems to remain cold
> is the one next to the transmission dipstick and looks to be very
> difficult to remove. Is that the one that went bad on yours? RObert
> -- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3" <sfedeli3@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Robert,
> >
> > It took me two years to figure out that one of the gate valves was
> not
> > opening- even though the handle was turning. My guess is that the
> gate
> > valve controlling flow to or from the front loop is closed-
> > permanently. I know I hated to do it, but eventually you should
> check
> > to make sure that the threads are not stripped in the gate on the
> > valves. Most of the innards can be removed without pulling the hoses
> > off. You just have to hold the body firmly with a large wrench while
> > unscrewing the valve shaft and gate assembly.
> >
> > Shane Fedeli
> > 85PT40
> > Hershey, PA
> >