ShurFlo 5.7

[freewill2008]

Test the voltage as close to the pump as possible. The idea is that
the voltage should drop a little when the pump runs. This means the
pump is drawing power, as it should.

If the voltage goes up as the pump stops, then the pump itself has
stopped drawing power meaning the internal pump controller is
responsible for the stoppage.

If the voltage goes way down or off as the pump stops, then the problem
is with the bus's supply of power to the pump. This could be a breaker
going off and then auto-resetting. Also, there could be a pressure
control device installed by BB that interrupts the power to the pump.
Finally, a bad connection might suddenly show up with a new pump that
draws more power. This could be a hard one to find, but it is also
less likely.

Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
> I should ask, if it is voltage drop, is there a convenient place back
> there to tie into a hot lead that will handle the power? Or am I going
> to be tearing everything apart to fish a wire down to the batteries?
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>
> On Thu, Dec 11, 2008 at 10:54 PM, Ryan Wright wrote:
> > Thanks for the advice, folks. I'll check for voltage drop and if
> > that's not the issue, I'll get the pump replaced under warranty, buy
> > an Aquajet and keep the Shurflo as a backup.
> >
> > -Ryan
> > '86 PT-40 8V92
> >
>

[timvasqz]

just as important as a good connection to the 12V+ is the ground- connection from the pump to bus frame.

If the pump doesnt fault when the detroit is running at high idle, that may prove bad electrical connections + or - . Running the Detroit should push 14V at the pump and not leave you with a marginal 12ish from the at rest batteries.

the relay that now powers your pump could have issue with the internal wire between post 30 and 87, or the fuse to that post 30 is screwed. I would find the two and change them out without even checking them. 22 years.

To run new+12volts; I dont know how and where you turn on the pump but in the 94pt there are several places to switch it on (above driver, kitchen, bathroom, outdoorsink and bedroom overhead) so if you power it with new wire , I would install a Bosch relayclose to the pump

• 30 to new good power +
• 85 to old marginal power to trip relay
• 86 to good ground
• 87 to the pump
[/list]


with the bosch you will not need to add any new switches and the old multi switch configuration should continue to work.


GregoryO'Connor ofTim&Greg 94ptCa
--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "freewill2008" wrote:
>
> Test the voltage as close to the pump as possible. The idea is that
> the voltage should drop a little when the pump runs. This means the
> pump is drawing power, as it should.
>
> If the voltage goes up as the pump stops, then the pump itself has
> stopped drawing power meaning the internal pump controller is
> responsible for the stoppage.
>
> If the voltage goes way down or off as the pump stops, then the problem
> is with the bus's supply of power to the pump. This could be a breaker
> going off and then auto-resetting. Also, there could be a pressure
> control device installed by BB that interrupts the power to the pump.
> Finally, a bad connection might suddenly show up with a new pump that
> draws more power. This could be a hard one to find, but it is also
> less likely.
>
> Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
> ryanpwright@ wrote:
> >
> > I should ask, if it is voltage drop, is there a convenient place back
> > there to tie into a hot lead that will handle the power? Or am I going
> > to be tearing everything apart to fish a wire down to the batteries?
> >
> > -Ryan
> > '86 PT-40 8V92
> >
> > On Thu, Dec 11, 2008 at 10:54 PM, Ryan Wright ryanpwright@ wrote:
> > > Thanks for the advice, folks. I'll check for voltage drop and if
> > > that's not the issue, I'll get the pump replaced under warranty, buy
> > > an Aquajet and keep the Shurflo as a backup.
> > >
> > > -Ryan
> > > '86 PT-40 8V92
> > >
> >
>

[drw907]

If you pop for the 3.5 gpm aquajet, the factory wiring will work as
is.

Dan

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
> I should ask, if it is voltage drop, is there a convenient place
back
> there to tie into a hot lead that will handle the power? Or am I
going
> to be tearing everything apart to fish a wire down to the batteries?
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>
> On Thu, Dec 11, 2008 at 10:54 PM, Ryan Wright
wrote:
> > Thanks for the advice, folks. I'll check for voltage drop and if
> > that's not the issue, I'll get the pump replaced under warranty,
buy
> > an Aquajet and keep the Shurflo as a backup.
> >
> > -Ryan
> > '86 PT-40 8V92
> >
>

[Ryan Wright]

Hi folks,

I wound up running a dedicated hot line back to my batteries. Figured
even if the pump needs to be replaced (jury is still out, I'll know
soon) it ought to be given a power feed capable of carrying all that
it needs. Quick question, though, is there a suitable spot back there
by the water stuffs to attach a ground wire to the frame? I only ran
the single hot wire, but now am thinking I should have run a dedicated
ground, too.

Any thoughts on where I might attach a ground from inside the coach?
I'd rather not fish more wire back to the batteries if I can help it.

Thanks for all of the help,

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

On Fri, Dec 12, 2008 at 7:45 PM, timvasqz wrote:
> just as important as a good connection to the 12V+ is the ground- connection
> from the pump to bus frame.

[freewill2008]

Ryan - if your bus is wired like mine there is a big ground cable
running with the +12v system and a ground buss tie point (white
wires) in each 12v breaker center. The pump's old ground wire runs
to one of these ground busses. You also have the old +12v wire
running from the pump to the same breaker center. If the old ground
wire and the old +12 wire were tied together at the pump and at the
ground buss, you would have your new higher-capacity ground wire.
Just be sure to find some white tape and wrap a few inches of the
paired wires at each end so future travellers will understand what
you've done.

Be sure to put a fuse at the battery to protect the new +12v home
run. 20a fuse for #12 wire, 30a for #10, 40a for #8.

Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I wound up running a dedicated hot line back to my batteries.
Figured
> even if the pump needs to be replaced (jury is still out, I'll know
> soon) it ought to be given a power feed capable of carrying all that
> it needs. Quick question, though, is there a suitable spot back
there
> by the water stuffs to attach a ground wire to the frame? I only ran
> the single hot wire, but now am thinking I should have run a
dedicated
> ground, too.
>
> Any thoughts on where I might attach a ground from inside the coach?
> I'd rather not fish more wire back to the batteries if I can help
it.
>
> Thanks for all of the help,
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92
>
> On Fri, Dec 12, 2008 at 7:45 PM, timvasqz wrote:
> > just as important as a good connection to the 12V+ is the ground-
connection
> > from the pump to bus frame.
>

[Ryan Wright]

Thanks for the reply, Bob. I'm going to re-use the old pump wires to
flip a relay for the pump. I'll find the nearest ground buss and tie a
new ground wire into it. Already have a fuse tied into the new +12
volt line.

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92

On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 8:09 PM, freewill2008 wrote:
> Ryan - if your bus is wired like mine there is a big ground cable
> running with the +12v system and a ground buss tie point (white
> wires) in each 12v breaker center. The pump's old ground wire runs
> to one of these ground busses. You also have the old +12v wire
> running from the pump to the same breaker center. If the old ground
> wire and the old +12 wire were tied together at the pump and at the
> ground buss, you would have your new higher-capacity ground wire.
> Just be sure to find some white tape and wrap a few inches of the
> paired wires at each end so future travellers will understand what
> you've done.
>
> Be sure to put a fuse at the battery to protect the new +12v home
> run. 20a fuse for #12 wire, 30a for #10, 40a for #8.
>
> Bob Griesel '84 FC31 WLII WA
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
> wrote:
>>
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> I wound up running a dedicated hot line back to my batteries.
> Figured
>> even if the pump needs to be replaced (jury is still out, I'll know
>> soon) it ought to be given a power feed capable of carrying all that
>> it needs. Quick question, though, is there a suitable spot back
> there
>> by the water stuffs to attach a ground wire to the frame? I only ran
>> the single hot wire, but now am thinking I should have run a
> dedicated
>> ground, too.
>>
>> Any thoughts on where I might attach a ground from inside the coach?
>> I'd rather not fish more wire back to the batteries if I can help
> it.
>>
>> Thanks for all of the help,
>>
>> -Ryan
>> '86 PT-40 8V92
>>
>> On Fri, Dec 12, 2008 at 7:45 PM, timvasqz wrote:
>> > just as important as a good connection to the 12V+ is the ground-
> connection
>> > from the pump to bus frame.
>>
>
>

[Ryan Wright]

Update on my water pump problem:

As it turns out, voltage drop was indeed the problem. This project
took me awhile to solve because I made it bigger than it had to be -
as usual. I took the bedroom apart and ran a new, 40 amp fused +12v #8
gauge wire direct from the batteries. I terminated it in a custom
enclosure under the driver's side bed with (4) fused links that light
LEDs to indicate a blown fuse. I now have 4 separate, fused circuits
under there with plenty of available power. One of them powers the
pump with a #12 gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse. I installed a water leak
detection system under both beds and put that on another of the
circuits, leaving 2 more available for future use.

Inside the aircraft bin storage up above, I pulled the backing panel
off and found a large copper ground bar. I tied a new ground there
with another #8 gauge wire and terminated that with a small screw-down
bus bar under the bed near the new fused enclosure. I installed a
relay on the existing pump circuit to flip power to the pump.

While I was under there, I also replaced most of the flexible water
lines, including the main line feeding the water tank. I installed a
valve on the main line to make future plumbing work possible without
draining the tank, and I removed the old strainer and installed the
new Shurflo Extreme strainer I bought with the pump last year. Oh, I
also put labels on the new circuits indicating their purpose &
termination points so as to make it easy to service for any future
owner, just in case I sell the coach some day.

The system works GREAT now! In fact, the pump is running much slower
and quieter while providing more pressure. I'm very happy. My next
trick, to finish this up the way I want it, will be to purchase a
second pump and tie it into the main system - I already made room for
one next to the existing pump. I'll install a switch to flip a relay &
select between the two pumps, so if I'm on the road and I lose a pump,
I'll have a live backup at my beck and call without needing to tear
the bed apart.

As always, I thank the members of this forum for their valuable
advice. Without you folks, I probably wouldn't have bought this great
coach in the first place and if I did, I definitely would have a hard
time maintaining it properly. I lurked here for a couple of years and
this forum was a huge factor in my decision to buy a Wanderlodge vs.
some other brand.

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92 (Now with great water pressure again!)

[Bob Lawrence]

Hi Ryan,
I had the same problem when installed my new Surflow 5.7. Finally
figured it out and also ran a fused wire direct to batteries. No more
problems.
Bob Lawrence
84 PT36
Texas

> Update on my water pump problem:
>
> As it turns out, voltage drop was indeed the problem. This project
> took me awhile to solve because I made it bigger than it had to be -
> as usual. I took the bedroom apart and ran a new, 40 amp fused +12v
#8
> gauge wire direct from the batteries. I terminated it in a custom
> enclosure under the driver's side bed with (4) fused links that
light
> LEDs to indicate a blown fuse. I now have 4 separate, fused circuits
> under there with plenty of available power. One of them powers the
> pump with a #12 gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse. I installed a water
leak
> detection system under both beds and put that on another of the
> circuits, leaving 2 more available for future use.
>
> Inside the aircraft bin storage up above, I pulled the backing panel
> off and found a large copper ground bar. I tied a new ground there
> with another #8 gauge wire and terminated that with a small screw-
down
> bus bar under the bed near the new fused enclosure. I installed a
> relay on the existing pump circuit to flip power to the pump.
>
> While I was under there, I also replaced most of the flexible water
> lines, including the main line feeding the water tank. I installed a
> valve on the main line to make future plumbing work possible without
> draining the tank, and I removed the old strainer and installed the
> new Shurflo Extreme strainer I bought with the pump last year. Oh, I
> also put labels on the new circuits indicating their purpose &
> termination points so as to make it easy to service for any future
> owner, just in case I sell the coach some day.
>
> The system works GREAT now! In fact, the pump is running much slower
> and quieter while providing more pressure. I'm very happy. My next
> trick, to finish this up the way I want it, will be to purchase a
> second pump and tie it into the main system - I already made room
for
> one next to the existing pump. I'll install a switch to flip a
relay &
> select between the two pumps, so if I'm on the road and I lose a
pump,
> I'll have a live backup at my beck and call without needing to tear
> the bed apart.
>
> As always, I thank the members of this forum for their valuable
> advice. Without you folks, I probably wouldn't have bought this
great
> coach in the first place and if I did, I definitely would have a
hard
> time maintaining it properly. I lurked here for a couple of years
and
> this forum was a huge factor in my decision to buy a Wanderlodge vs.
> some other brand.
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92 (Now with great water pressure again!)
>

[Ernie Ekberg]

Ryan, if you get a chance add a photo of your project in our photos section. We have plenty of room for new photos, now. Ernie Ekberg 83PT40 Wanderlodge Weatherford, Tx http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/erni...gandrepair --- On Sun, 2/15/09, Ryan Wright wrote: From: Ryan Wright Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: ShurFlo 5.7 To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, February 15, 2009, 1:29 PM Update on my water pump problem: As it turns out, voltage drop was indeed the problem. This project took me awhile to solve because I made it bigger than it had to be - as usual. I took the bedroom apart and ran a new, 40 amp fused +12v #8 gauge wire direct from the batteries. I terminated it in a custom enclosure under the driver's side bed with (4) fused links that light LEDs to indicate a blown fuse. I now have 4 separate, fused circuits under there with plenty of available power. One of them powers the pump with a #12 gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse. I installed a water leak detection system under both beds and put that on another of the circuits, leaving 2 more available for future use. Inside the aircraft bin storage up above, I pulled the backing panel off and found a large copper ground bar. I tied a new ground there with another #8 gauge wire and terminated that with a small screw-down bus bar under the bed near the new fused enclosure. I installed a relay on the existing pump circuit to flip power to the pump. While I was under there, I also replaced most of the flexible water lines, including the main line feeding the water tank. I installed a valve on the main line to make future plumbing work possible without draining the tank, and I removed the old strainer and installed the new Shurflo Extreme strainer I bought with the pump last year. Oh, I also put labels on the new circuits indicating their purpose & termination points so as to make it easy to service for any future owner, just in case I sell the coach some day. The system works GREAT now! In fact, the pump is running much slower and quieter while providing more pressure. I'm very happy. My next trick, to finish this up the way I want it, will be to purchase a second pump and tie it into the main system - I already made room for one next to the existing pump. I'll install a switch to flip a relay & select between the two pumps, so if I'm on the road and I lose a pump, I'll have a live backup at my beck and call without needing to tear the bed apart. As always, I thank the members of this forum for their valuable advice. Without you folks, I probably wouldn't have bought this great coach in the first place and if I did, I definitely would have a hard time maintaining it properly. I lurked here for a couple of years and this forum was a huge factor in my decision to buy a Wanderlodge vs. some other brand. -Ryan '86 PT-40 8V92 (Now with great water pressure again!)

[timvasqz]

One problem with a two pump system is both pump heads must work for
any one to make pressure. if one pump fails and it is not an
electrical failure, the valve in the pump fail open and let water
cycle thru that path backwards to the tank. using a backup pump in
this situation is the same as running a pump with the fill switch
open. It would be necessary to block the failed pump path at either
end to keep the water from the good pump from making its way back at
the tank.

I can run both pumps installed by BB at the same time which will help
maintain psi at the nozzle or help run two faucets at the same time.
I dont like to use both because when a pump comes on to repressurize
a closed system it is always better for the motor and e -load if
the pump comes on when the system is open and at 0 or low pressure.
this allows the motor to turn free and come to speed quick.

Greg ofTim&Greg
94ptCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright
wrote:
>
> Update on my water pump problem:
>
> As it turns out, voltage drop was indeed the problem. This project
> took me awhile to solve because I made it bigger than it had to be -
> as usual. I took the bedroom apart and ran a new, 40 amp fused +12v
#8
> gauge wire direct from the batteries. I terminated it in a custom
> enclosure under the driver's side bed with (4) fused links that
light
> LEDs to indicate a blown fuse. I now have 4 separate, fused circuits
> under there with plenty of available power. One of them powers the
> pump with a #12 gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse. I installed a water
leak
> detection system under both beds and put that on another of the
> circuits, leaving 2 more available for future use.
>
> Inside the aircraft bin storage up above, I pulled the backing panel
> off and found a large copper ground bar. I tied a new ground there
> with another #8 gauge wire and terminated that with a small screw-
down
> bus bar under the bed near the new fused enclosure. I installed a
> relay on the existing pump circuit to flip power to the pump.
>
> While I was under there, I also replaced most of the flexible water
> lines, including the main line feeding the water tank. I installed a
> valve on the main line to make future plumbing work possible without
> draining the tank, and I removed the old strainer and installed the
> new Shurflo Extreme strainer I bought with the pump last year. Oh, I
> also put labels on the new circuits indicating their purpose &
> termination points so as to make it easy to service for any future
> owner, just in case I sell the coach some day.
>
> The system works GREAT now! In fact, the pump is running much slower
> and quieter while providing more pressure. I'm very happy. My next
> trick, to finish this up the way I want it, will be to purchase a
> second pump and tie it into the main system - I already made room
for
> one next to the existing pump. I'll install a switch to flip a
relay &
> select between the two pumps, so if I'm on the road and I lose a
pump,
> I'll have a live backup at my beck and call without needing to tear
> the bed apart.
>
> As always, I thank the members of this forum for their valuable
> advice. Without you folks, I probably wouldn't have bought this
great
> coach in the first place and if I did, I definitely would have a
hard
> time maintaining it properly. I lurked here for a couple of years
and
> this forum was a huge factor in my decision to buy a Wanderlodge vs.
> some other brand.
>
> -Ryan
> '86 PT-40 8V92 (Now with great water pressure again!)
>