Water Heater

[bobloomas]

----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph L. Fullenwider
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Water Heater



Also there is a over temperature cut out with a reset button on it located by
the water heater.
and dont forget about the low water cut also located by the water heater.Both
of these can cause you a problem.
Bob Loomas 85 PT 36



> >
> >





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Dan Sunderland]

Regarding the lighted switches, do you need to replace the switch assembly or
just a light
bulb when the light has failed?

Dan
86PT40
San Marcos, CA





--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
> An after thought, a third alternative switch site is located on one side of
> the bed or the other in the base board area.
>
> Ralph
>
> At 05:18 PM 8/22/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> >Jim:
> >
> >Yes there is a switch, actually 2. One is in the main breaker box and
> >should be marked water heater. The other should be in the curb side rear
> >closet behind the mirror door and should have a tag saying "water heater."
> >Some times there are 3 switches in a row in that area and usually the water
> >heater is the center switch, but not always. If the water heater switch is
> >not in the curb side rear closet then it's alternative site is in the
> >drivers side rear closet area behind the mirrored door. Both of these
> >places are in the rear of the Coach and on each side of the bed.
> >
> >Safe travels,
> >
> >Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> >Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> >http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> >
> >At 09:59 PM 8/22/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> > >Ralph -
> > >Do you know how to access it?
> > >
> > >When Bird is running it has hot water ..heated from engine..but when on
> > >shore power no hot water...Maybe there is a switch that I have not
> > >located yet or I have a problem with the w/h any thoughts???
> > >
> > >-- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "jqrjr" wrote:
> > > > Trying to find my waterheater....1988 40' wbwl..when plugged in to
> > > > electric my waterheater is not working help
> > > >
> > > > Jim
> > >
> > >

[krminyl@...]

I just went through this a few weeks ago (third time in 6 yrs). Before you
go through the R&R of the water heater, just make sure all of your fittings
are tight and secure. If the fittings aren't leaking, check the T&P valve on
the water heater (pressure release valve)...make sure it isn't dripping.

If you have determined that it is the water heater, time to change it out.
Either Atwood, or Seaward brands work well...Seaward is cheaper by over a
hundred bucks....corrosion is the culprit in the tanks...aluminum. Seaward now
replaces the drain spigot with a magnesium anode, and they claim that the
anode gets eaten away, not the tank...drawback....tough to drain the tank
without a drain spigot....something to consider when you are trying to remove a
water heater weighing around a hundred pounds from a place with VERY limited
working room.

Use the stainless braided hoses when re-attaching the hoses...lots easier to
connect...also, make sure that the area where the heater goes is completely
dried out from the leak. Mold can grow quickly, and you'll never get that
musty smell to go away. I spray the area with a mixture of bleach and water,
and let it dry with the help of a little 110v muffin fan for a few days or so.
Make sure that the power is turned off when working back there with the
wiring, and keep lots of towels handy to soak up the coolant (heat exchanger)
and water when removing the hoses.

I hope a FC is easier than my PT...I swore to my wife this last time that
the BB is going to be sold if my new water heater leaks, instead of having to
go through the headache of removing the water heater again (I went with the
anode, not the drain valve...that sucker is heavy!)

Good luck....been there, done that (a few times).

Kevin McKeown
Yorba Linda, CA
1986 38' Pt


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ssyd1]

Hi All

Woke up to a damp carpet between the twin beds..Looking under the bed
and found water around the water heater.No pipes leaking.Time to
replace the water heater??? Any suggestions???

Mario 1985fc35 Near Quartzsite

[dthollis1961]

Three water heaters or three leaks in six years? I'm needing a new
one too, but your scaring me if you're saying the new ones last only a
couple years.

David Hollis 84FC35 Springfield,IL


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@... wrote:
>
> I just went through this a few weeks ago (third time in 6 yrs).

[krminyl@...]

Now you tell me!!

Kevin


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Stephen Birtles]

Force 10 works well also and is les expensive than seaward and we got them
Stephen 77fc35


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, krminyl@... wrote:
>
> I just went through this a few weeks ago (third time in 6 yrs).
Before you
> go through the R&R of the water heater, just make sure all of your
fittings
> are tight and secure. If the fittings aren't leaking, check the
T&P valve on
> the water heater (pressure release valve)...make sure it isn't
dripping.
>
> If you have determined that it is the water heater, time to change
it out.
> Either Atwood, or Seaward brands work well...Seaward is cheaper by
over a
> hundred bucks....corrosion is the culprit in the tanks...aluminum.
Seaward now
> replaces the drain spigot with a magnesium anode, and they claim
that the
> anode gets eaten away, not the tank...drawback....tough to drain the
tank
> without a drain spigot....something to consider when you are trying
to remove a
> water heater weighing around a hundred pounds from a place with VERY
limited
> working room.
>
> Use the stainless braided hoses when re-attaching the hoses...lots
easier to
> connect...also, make sure that the area where the heater goes is
completely
> dried out from the leak. Mold can grow quickly, and you'll never
get that
> musty smell to go away. I spray the area with a mixture of bleach
and water,
> and let it dry with the help of a little 110v muffin fan for a few
days or so.
> Make sure that the power is turned off when working back there with
the
> wiring, and keep lots of towels handy to soak up the coolant (heat
exchanger)
> and water when removing the hoses.
>
> I hope a FC is easier than my PT...I swore to my wife this last time
that
> the BB is going to be sold if my new water heater leaks, instead of
having to
> go through the headache of removing the water heater again (I went
with the
> anode, not the drain valve...that sucker is heavy!)
>
> Good luck....been there, done that (a few times).
>
> Kevin McKeown
> Yorba Linda, CA
> 1986 38' Pt
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[krminyl@...]

Water heater...yes...

Kevin
YL CA
86 PT 38


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Rob Robinson]

On 22/01/07, krminyl@... wrote:
>
> Kevin did you recently install a new heater?????
>
> Now you tell me!!
>
> Kevin
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>



--
Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson
94 WLWB


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Scott]

Mario, I think Kevin said it all (great post) lots of towels, tight
spaces, heavy to work and awkward. I replaced my water heater on our
86FC35RB a year ago. Well acutally I had the work done @ Bleakley as we
were at RIV. I watched the guy pretty closely. There was VERY LITTLE
room to work in the back closet. He took the closet door and frame off
while he worked. It increased working room but not by much. But did
make a big difference. He used the Staninless hoses too. I would
dread/cuss/skin my knuckles/cuss/skin all my knuckles if I had done it.
He was lightening fast though he was done in short order. Showed up
about 10am and we were on our way by 12:30pm. a Friday the Tech wanted
to leave early to go fishing. :>)

OH be sure on the replacement that you measure the height of the old
unit, some new units are just a bit taller and the closet floor will
not fit exactly.

I personally would go with the best heater for the money...not a job to
do over anytime soon. Although since Kevin has had so much practice he
is now the resident expert. (just kiddin)

Scott B
86FC35
SC

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "ssyd1" <ssyd1@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All
>
> Woke up to a damp carpet between the twin beds..Looking under the bed
> and found water around the water heater.No pipes leaking.Time to
> replace the water heater??? Any suggestions???
>
> Mario 1985fc35 Near Quartzsite
>