Heat? '86 PT_40

[mikebulriss]

Paul,

I can't believe that no one has responded to this list of questions yet, so let me try to start it off. Steve or Ernie, feel free to jump in here.

(01-11-2016 14:30)pauleburgess Wrote:  I've got 3x Cruisairs (2 of them even work)-- these are A/C only, correct? YES. The cruiseairs work very well for cooling only and I miss them and prefer them over the roof AC units.
These are controlled by 3 knob panels-- Off/Start/Run; Fan Speed; Temperature YES

Next I've got two thermostats in the bathroom, overhead, and one on the dinette back wall, and one in the bedroom. These should control the propane heaters, right? As I recall from my 83 PT40, yes.
The fan should at least come on if I tell it to, right (I'd like to make sure it blows before I feed it propane.) Again, as memory serves me, that's a yes. You of course know you will need the main propane valve outside turned on, the gas detector under the dinette turned on (with a green light on) and the propane valve at each burner turned on also. Those heaters will need to be cleaned, and you have a sail valve that could need adjusting, not to mention the possible pilot igniter adjustment. I would concentrate on the electric heaters first. The electrics are pretty efficient and easier to get going with just a cleaning.

I've got an electric heater under the sofa (as well as engine water heat, and propane) that doesn't do anything when I turn the knob. The electric in the bedroom doesn't even have a knob anymore. Again from memory, I seem to remember that those electrics are run by the thermostats also. I seem to remember that you push the sliders under the thermostat to the right to turn on the electric heaters(maybe)? Your owner's manual will document the process. The knobs only set the temperature on the electric heater so just turn them to max and let the wall thermostat control them. Don't worry about the missing knob, just turn the stem with pliers to max and forget it. This is a great time to pull the electric heaters out and clean them. The front two face plate screws remove and slide them out. Remove 3-4 cover screws and vacuum and blow them out. I usually brush the squirrel cage blowers off with a soft tooth brush. Reassemble and test. Of course, make sure the breakers are all turned on in the electric box. The front electric heater power is controlled by having the front AC switch on at the driver's panel. Then there should be a thermostat at the kitchen area that controls it. The slider switch under the thermostat goes to the left for cool to control the roof mushroom vent and to the left for heat to control the front electric heater. If they don't work and you are sure they are getting power, those toe heaters are still available and pretty cheap.

There are also two switches (high/low, on/off) mounted next to the engine water heat. Yes I remember those. They control the fans on those chassis heaters, but you will need the winter switch to work to provide hot engine water to them, not to mention making sure that the gate valves in the engine compartment are open. With that pic from under the sink, I'm not thinking that is such a good idea until you get that pipe fixed.


I am set to Summer because of this under the kitchen sink-- and not being certain what would happen from that pipe if I flipped it to winter.. (note for the curious, my ice maker is located tailward from the kitchen, in the pantry area. This hose heads towards the sofa. I don't know of anything that would use water forward of the sink, other than the heater)

Anyone want to give some guidance on where to start on ANY of these?

Good luck,