Water pump (one more time)

[David Brady]

Just got off the phone with Shurflo. Apparently there is
an adjustment screw on the pump to adjust the internal
pump pressure regulator. I'll give it a try. Otherwise,
I may try a replacement pump. The behaviour is that the
pump ramps up too rapidly, overshoots, and ramps again.

David B
'02 LXi, Smokey
NC

David Brady wrote:
>
> I called Shurflo and they specified that the pump should have
> at least 18 inches of elbow free tubing both at the inlet and
> at the outlet. I have much more than that. I don't use any strainer
> at all. All tank water is filtered as the tank is filled, so I'm
> thinking that the strainer isn't necessary. With the original dual
> fuel pumps both used strainers, and the strainers were always
> spotless. To quiet the pump even further I mounted it using a
> Jabsco vibration pad kit, part number 43990-0058. These legs
> provide much more vibration dampening than the original
> Shurflo legs. The pump is virtually silent. I do have aquahot.
> What I experience, especially on hot water, is: as the hot water
> is turned on, the pump ramps up, stops, ramps up again, stops,
> and again. It may do this half a dozen times before it settles down.
> In the shower, this turns in to variation in temperature. Since the
> cold water pressure is fairly constant, the cold water flow stays
> the same, but the hot water oscillates. The temperature varies from
> say 115 deg F to 120 deg F every second or so. Very annoying.
> But then, after say half the fresh water tank is used up, everything
> works properly. Maybe another call to Shurflo is in order.
>
> David B
> '02 LXi, Smokey
> NC
>
> Pete Masterson wrote:
> >
> > Reading the installation instructions with the pump, it cautioned
> > about isolating it from vibration to the plumbing. My coach has the
> > gray plastic pipe (polybutyl -- that's no longer used as it was the
> > subject of class-action lawsuits in the late 90s due to unexpected
> > failures in homes and manufactured homes). I purchased "Flare-It"
> > fittings from PEX Connection along with a few feet of 3/4 inch I.D.
> > PEX tubing. PEX can be bent around corners so long as it has a
> > suitable bending circumference (which is a chore to accomplish in the
> > space available for the pump). So, from the end of the original
> > plumbing, I have a 3' section of PEX looped to turn 90 degrees to
> > enter the pump, which is mounted on one of the (apparently) wooden
> > boards attached to a metal bulkhead where one of the original dual
> > pumps was located. Again, on the outside, I have another similar 3'
> > section of PEX with a large loop to connect to the outbound original
> > plumbing. This effectively isolates the pump from transmitting
> > vibrations through the plumbing system. The PEX tubing is (somewhat)
> > flexible and the dual curves allow vibration/expansion/contraction as
> > necessary.
> >
> > The higher pressure did not cause any unexpected problems with the
> > existing plumbing -- except the main fresh water drain valve started
> > leaking from a long-existing crack in the plastic valve body. (I
> > could see that it had been present for some time due to the dirt/
> > corrosion present.) I then replaced the drain valve and associated
> > fittings with brass or white plastic as appropriate.
> >
> > The pump doesn't vibrate the plumbing but it isn't exactly "silent."
> > The mounting, even with rubber 'feet', etc. still vibrates the
> > bulkhead it's attached to, so you can hear the pump when it is
> > running -- but it's not particularly intrusive and you don't hear it
> > over the "whoosh" of the shower, for example.
> >
> > I note, too, that I started having a problem with the Microphor
> > toilet flushing. It does not "like" water pressure above 50 psi and
> > doesn't flush properly at the 65 psi from the water pump. I've
> > learned to open a water faucet valve on the bathroom sink, then flush
> > the toilet in the fraction of a second before the pump kicks on --
> > temporarily solving the Microphor problem until I can install a
> > pressure limiter on the water line that serves the toilet.
> >
> > All-in-all, I'm very satisfied with the 6.7 gpm 65 psi variable speed
> > pump. It has eliminated the two original pumps (that were both
> > leaking) and the complexity of the related plumbing along with the
> > accumulator (expansion) tank. (Another source of plumbing woes if the
> > diaphragm leaks or it becomes de-pressurized.)
> >
> > I'm also enthusiastic about PEX tubing (pipe replacement) and the
> > Flare-It fittings. While special clamped fittings are often used with
> > PEX (requiring a special clamping tool), the Flare-It fittings don't
> > require any special tools, but a simple wrench-thing they sell makes
> > tightening them a breeze (I used a channel-lock plier, but their tool
> > would probably not leave tool marks like the pliers).
> >
> > In retrospect, about the only thing I might have done differently is
> > to use 1/2 inch I.D. PEX tubing. It would have been much easier to
> > bend into the loop shapes in the area I had available -- still, I was
> > successful with the 3/4 inch tubing and it does not restrict the
> > water flow.
> >
> > I do not get "pulsating" very often ... but sometimes, when the
> > bathroom or kitchen sink faucet is turned on, I see just a little bit
> > of it -- but it goes away in a moment after the pump fully comes up
> > to speed. I've never noticed it with the shower but, perhaps, the
> > flow limiter in the shower head allows the pump to 'catch up' before
> > any pulsating begins.
> >
> > The water is heated in an AquaHot system -- this is a tankless hot
> > water system, so there shouldn't be any air pockets (as in a hot
> > water heater) on a newer coach. (I assume you have an AquaHot.)
> >
> > Did you install the high-capacity water filter? I note that the
> > variable speed pump requires a high-flow filter. It was about twice
> > the size as the water filters used with the old pumps in my coach.
> >
> > Rather than an air pocket, there simply may be a restriction
> > somewhere in the lines into or out of the pump, causing it to be
> > unable to fully come up to pressure as fast as it should, when a
> > valve is opened.
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > aeonix1@...
> > On the road at Lockhart Texas
> >
> > On May 1, 2007, at 2:50 PM, David Brady wrote:
> >
> > > I also have the Shurflo Smart Sensor 5.7 65psi pump. My inlet
> > > and outlet plumbing are long lengths of 3/4" ID tubing. The
> > > connections to the pump are the Extreme Series Straight
> > > fitting 3/4" quick connects, part number 94-615-04. These
> > > fittings eliminate any elbows at both the inlet and
> > > outlet of the pump. The trouble is, I still get pulsating and
> > > hunting while the pump tries to zero in on the pressure and flow
> > > required. Anyone else have this problem? It's worse on the
> > > hot water than on the cold. I suspect an air pocket somewhere,
> > > probably in my hot water heater. It gets better with time, but
> > > by then, my fresh water tank is close to empty, it's time to fill
> > > up, and the pulsating starts again. Again, I'm thinking an air
> > > pocket.
> > >
> > > David Brady
> > > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > > NC
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > >>
> > >> THe original pump in my coach provided 40-45 lbs pressure. I
> > >> installed a ShurFlo variable speed pump that provides 65 lbs
> > >> pressure. The coach plumbing seems to be 'up' for this although I
> > >> have an anomaly with the Microphor toilet (it doesn't like pressure
> > >> above 50#). Mostly, the higher pressure gives you a better "user
> > >> experience" when you take a shower. The variable speed pump also
> > >> eliminates the need for the accumulator (expansion) tank.
> > >>
> > >> Pete Masterson
> > >> aeonix1@...
>
> > >> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> > >> El Sobrante, CA
> > >>
> > >> On May 1, 2007, at 11:35 AM, Keith Strehle wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> I am going to replace my water pump this weekend. There are ShurFlo
> > >>> pumps available on the shelf for about $70. The pump is supposed to
> > >>> put out 45 psi but I've heard many people here talk about the 65 psi
> > >>> pumps. 65 psi seems a little much. Is 65 psi necessary and how much
> > >>> does the original pump put out?
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks, Keith
> > >>> 84FC35
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ----------------------------------------------------------
> > >> ---
> > >>
> > >> No virus found in this incoming message.
> > >> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > >> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > >> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:10
AM
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Terry Neal]

Good to know David. I had asked Shurflo a week or so ago if there was
any kind of pressure adjustment on this model & they said "no, none at
all". I was going to order one but was thinking I should look at other
brands & see if something else had any kind of adjustment. Let us know
how your issue turns out.

Terry Neal
Bozeman, MT
82PT40 6V92TA
74FC34 6V53T



David Brady wrote:

> Just got off the phone with Shurflo. Apparently there is
> an adjustment screw on the pump to adjust the internal
> pump pressure regulator. I'll give it a try. Otherwise,
> I may try a replacement pump. The behaviour is that the
> pump ramps up too rapidly, overshoots, and ramps again.
>
> David B
> '02 LXi, Smokey
> NC
>
> David Brady wrote:
> >
> > I called Shurflo and they specified that the pump should have
> > at least 18 inches of elbow free tubing both at the inlet and
> > at the outlet. I have much more than that. I don't use any strainer
> > at all. All tank water is filtered as the tank is filled, so I'm
> > thinking that the strainer isn't necessary. With the original dual
> > fuel pumps both used strainers, and the strainers were always
> > spotless. To quiet the pump even further I mounted it using a
> > Jabsco vibration pad kit, part number 43990-0058. These legs
> > provide much more vibration dampening than the original
> > Shurflo legs. The pump is virtually silent. I do have aquahot.
> > What I experience, especially on hot water, is: as the hot water
> > is turned on, the pump ramps up, stops, ramps up again, stops,
> > and again. It may do this half a dozen times before it settles down.
> > In the shower, this turns in to variation in temperature. Since the
> > cold water pressure is fairly constant, the cold water flow stays
> > the same, but the hot water oscillates. The temperature varies from
> > say 115 deg F to 120 deg F every second or so. Very annoying.
> > But then, after say half the fresh water tank is used up, everything
> > works properly. Maybe another call to Shurflo is in order.
> >
> > David B
> > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > NC
> >
> > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > >
> > > Reading the installation instructions with the pump, it cautioned
> > > about isolating it from vibration to the plumbing. My coach has the
> > > gray plastic pipe (polybutyl -- that's no longer used as it was the
> > > subject of class-action lawsuits in the late 90s due to unexpected
> > > failures in homes and manufactured homes). I purchased "Flare-It"
> > > fittings from PEX Connection along with a few feet of 3/4 inch I.D.
> > > PEX tubing. PEX can be bent around corners so long as it has a
> > > suitable bending circumference (which is a chore to accomplish in the
> > > space available for the pump). So, from the end of the original
> > > plumbing, I have a 3' section of PEX looped to turn 90 degrees to
> > > enter the pump, which is mounted on one of the (apparently) wooden
> > > boards attached to a metal bulkhead where one of the original dual
> > > pumps was located. Again, on the outside, I have another similar 3'
> > > section of PEX with a large loop to connect to the outbound original
> > > plumbing. This effectively isolates the pump from transmitting
> > > vibrations through the plumbing system. The PEX tubing is (somewhat)
> > > flexible and the dual curves allow vibration/expansion/contraction as
> > > necessary.
> > >
> > > The higher pressure did not cause any unexpected problems with the
> > > existing plumbing -- except the main fresh water drain valve started
> > > leaking from a long-existing crack in the plastic valve body. (I
> > > could see that it had been present for some time due to the dirt/
> > > corrosion present.) I then replaced the drain valve and associated
> > > fittings with brass or white plastic as appropriate.
> > >
> > > The pump doesn't vibrate the plumbing but it isn't exactly "silent."
> > > The mounting, even with rubber 'feet', etc. still vibrates the
> > > bulkhead it's attached to, so you can hear the pump when it is
> > > running -- but it's not particularly intrusive and you don't hear it
> > > over the "whoosh" of the shower, for example.
> > >
> > > I note, too, that I started having a problem with the Microphor
> > > toilet flushing. It does not "like" water pressure above 50 psi and
> > > doesn't flush properly at the 65 psi from the water pump. I've
> > > learned to open a water faucet valve on the bathroom sink, then flush
> > > the toilet in the fraction of a second before the pump kicks on --
> > > temporarily solving the Microphor problem until I can install a
> > > pressure limiter on the water line that serves the toilet.
> > >
> > > All-in-all, I'm very satisfied with the 6.7 gpm 65 psi variable speed
> > > pump. It has eliminated the two original pumps (that were both
> > > leaking) and the complexity of the related plumbing along with the
> > > accumulator (expansion) tank. (Another source of plumbing woes if the
> > > diaphragm leaks or it becomes de-pressurized.)
> > >
> > > I'm also enthusiastic about PEX tubing (pipe replacement) and the
> > > Flare-It fittings. While special clamped fittings are often used with
> > > PEX (requiring a special clamping tool), the Flare-It fittings don't
> > > require any special tools, but a simple wrench-thing they sell makes
> > > tightening them a breeze (I used a channel-lock plier, but their tool
> > > would probably not leave tool marks like the pliers).
> > >
> > > In retrospect, about the only thing I might have done differently is
> > > to use 1/2 inch I.D. PEX tubing. It would have been much easier to
> > > bend into the loop shapes in the area I had available -- still, I was
> > > successful with the 3/4 inch tubing and it does not restrict the
> > > water flow.
> > >
> > > I do not get "pulsating" very often ... but sometimes, when the
> > > bathroom or kitchen sink faucet is turned on, I see just a little bit
> > > of it -- but it goes away in a moment after the pump fully comes up
> > > to speed. I've never noticed it with the shower but, perhaps, the
> > > flow limiter in the shower head allows the pump to 'catch up' before
> > > any pulsating begins.
> > >
> > > The water is heated in an AquaHot system -- this is a tankless hot
> > > water system, so there shouldn't be any air pockets (as in a hot
> > > water heater) on a newer coach. (I assume you have an AquaHot.)
> > >
> > > Did you install the high-capacity water filter? I note that the
> > > variable speed pump requires a high-flow filter. It was about twice
> > > the size as the water filters used with the old pumps in my coach.
> > >
> > > Rather than an air pocket, there simply may be a restriction
> > > somewhere in the lines into or out of the pump, causing it to be
> > > unable to fully come up to pressure as fast as it should, when a
> > > valve is opened.
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson
> > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > aeonix1@...
>
> > > On the road at Lockhart Texas
> > >
> > > On May 1, 2007, at 2:50 PM, David Brady wrote:
> > >
> > > > I also have the Shurflo Smart Sensor 5.7 65psi pump. My inlet
> > > > and outlet plumbing are long lengths of 3/4" ID tubing. The
> > > > connections to the pump are the Extreme Series Straight
> > > > fitting 3/4" quick connects, part number 94-615-04. These
> > > > fittings eliminate any elbows at both the inlet and
> > > > outlet of the pump. The trouble is, I still get pulsating and
> > > > hunting while the pump tries to zero in on the pressure and flow
> > > > required. Anyone else have this problem? It's worse on the
> > > > hot water than on the cold. I suspect an air pocket somewhere,
> > > > probably in my hot water heater. It gets better with time, but
> > > > by then, my fresh water tank is close to empty, it's time to fill
> > > > up, and the pulsating starts again. Again, I'm thinking an air
> > > > pocket.
> > > >
> > > > David Brady
> > > > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > > > NC
> > > >
> > > > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> THe original pump in my coach provided 40-45 lbs pressure. I
> > > >> installed a ShurFlo variable speed pump that provides 65 lbs
> > > >> pressure. The coach plumbing seems to be 'up' for this although I
> > > >> have an anomaly with the Microphor toilet (it doesn't like pressure
> > > >> above 50#). Mostly, the higher pressure gives you a better "user
> > > >> experience" when you take a shower. The variable speed pump also
> > > >> eliminates the need for the accumulator (expansion) tank.
> > > >>
> > > >> Pete Masterson
> > > >> aeonix1@...
>
> >
> > > >> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> > > >> El Sobrante, CA
> > > >>
> > > >> On May 1, 2007, at 11:35 AM, Keith Strehle wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>> I am going to replace my water pump this weekend. There are
> ShurFlo
> > > >>> pumps available on the shelf for about $70. The pump is
> supposed to
> > > >>> put out 45 psi but I've heard many people here talk about the
> 65 psi
> > > >>> pumps. 65 psi seems a little much. Is 65 psi necessary and how
> much
> > > >>> does the original pump put out?
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Thanks, Keith
> > > >>> 84FC35
> > > >>>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > >> ---
> > > >>
> > > >> No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > >> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > >> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > > >> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Pete Masterson]

On May 1, 2007, at 4:19 PM, David Brady wrote:

> I called Shurflo and they specified that the pump should have
> at least 18 inches of elbow free tubing both at the inlet and
> at the outlet. I have much more than that. I don't use any strainer
> at all.

Ok... so there's no restriction on either side of the pump. I'm a
"belt and suspenders" type guy, so I installed the strainer filter
even though the old pump strainers didn't seem to have any debris in
them. Still, if something gets into the tank or plumbing (perhaps
from work on the system), then nothing will get into the pump itself
to foul it with the strainer present.

> <snip>To quiet the pump even further I mounted it using a
> Jabsco vibration pad kit, part number 43990-0058. These legs
> provide much more vibration dampening than the original
> Shurflo legs. The pump is virtually silent.

I'll have to look into that. I'm not annoyed by the small amount of
noise that gets through, but it would be nice if the pump were truly
"silent" as was the case with the old pumps I replaced.


> I do have aquahot.
> What I experience, especially on hot water, is: as the hot water
> is turned on, the pump ramps up, stops, ramps up again, stops,
> and again. It may do this half a dozen times before it settles down.

Wow... this is nothing like my experience. Water tap on ... slight
lag, (less than a second) then the pump kicks in -- it ramps up its
speed at a fairly even pace. No on-off, on-off ... simply slow,
medium, then full speed. Close tap. Pump stops almost immediately. No
temperature variations and no significant pressure variation as it
starts up (the pressure has to drop a certain amount for the pump to
turn on). Only problem is if someone else starts using water while
the shower is in use... then a pressure swing can cause noticeable
temperature variation. Loud shouting seems to change the behavior of
other water user in that case. (Also, a reminder that I, too, can
turn on the hot water in the kitchen when _she's_ in the shower!)

You might want to check the pressure sensor on the pump... it may be
defective or mis-adjusted.


<snip>


Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
aeonix1@...
On the road at Lockhart Texas

[David Brady]

More info from Shurflo. Check your pumps Manufacturer
Build Date. Apparently if the pump was built before Sept.
2006 you may have pressure cycling issues. Remove the
pump, return, and Shurflo will send you a new one. In the
meantime, turn the adjustment screw 1/4 turn clockwise
to increase the pump sensing pressure; i.e, the pump won't
back off as quickly.

David B
'02 LXi, Smokey
NC

David Brady wrote:
>
> Just got off the phone with Shurflo. Apparently there is
> an adjustment screw on the pump to adjust the internal
> pump pressure regulator. I'll give it a try. Otherwise,
> I may try a replacement pump. The behaviour is that the
> pump ramps up too rapidly, overshoots, and ramps again.
>
> David B
> '02 LXi, Smokey
> NC
>
> David Brady wrote:
> >
> > I called Shurflo and they specified that the pump should have
> > at least 18 inches of elbow free tubing both at the inlet and
> > at the outlet. I have much more than that. I don't use any strainer
> > at all. All tank water is filtered as the tank is filled, so I'm
> > thinking that the strainer isn't necessary. With the original dual
> > fuel pumps both used strainers, and the strainers were always
> > spotless. To quiet the pump even further I mounted it using a
> > Jabsco vibration pad kit, part number 43990-0058. These legs
> > provide much more vibration dampening than the original
> > Shurflo legs. The pump is virtually silent. I do have aquahot.
> > What I experience, especially on hot water, is: as the hot water
> > is turned on, the pump ramps up, stops, ramps up again, stops,
> > and again. It may do this half a dozen times before it settles down.
> > In the shower, this turns in to variation in temperature. Since the
> > cold water pressure is fairly constant, the cold water flow stays
> > the same, but the hot water oscillates. The temperature varies from
> > say 115 deg F to 120 deg F every second or so. Very annoying.
> > But then, after say half the fresh water tank is used up, everything
> > works properly. Maybe another call to Shurflo is in order.
> >
> > David B
> > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > NC
> >
> > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > >
> > > Reading the installation instructions with the pump, it cautioned
> > > about isolating it from vibration to the plumbing. My coach has the
> > > gray plastic pipe (polybutyl -- that's no longer used as it was the
> > > subject of class-action lawsuits in the late 90s due to unexpected
> > > failures in homes and manufactured homes). I purchased "Flare-It"
> > > fittings from PEX Connection along with a few feet of 3/4 inch I.D.
> > > PEX tubing. PEX can be bent around corners so long as it has a
> > > suitable bending circumference (which is a chore to accomplish in the
> > > space available for the pump). So, from the end of the original
> > > plumbing, I have a 3' section of PEX looped to turn 90 degrees to
> > > enter the pump, which is mounted on one of the (apparently) wooden
> > > boards attached to a metal bulkhead where one of the original dual
> > > pumps was located. Again, on the outside, I have another similar 3'
> > > section of PEX with a large loop to connect to the outbound original
> > > plumbing. This effectively isolates the pump from transmitting
> > > vibrations through the plumbing system. The PEX tubing is (somewhat)
> > > flexible and the dual curves allow vibration/expansion/contraction as
> > > necessary.
> > >
> > > The higher pressure did not cause any unexpected problems with the
> > > existing plumbing -- except the main fresh water drain valve started
> > > leaking from a long-existing crack in the plastic valve body. (I
> > > could see that it had been present for some time due to the dirt/
> > > corrosion present.) I then replaced the drain valve and associated
> > > fittings with brass or white plastic as appropriate.
> > >
> > > The pump doesn't vibrate the plumbing but it isn't exactly "silent."
> > > The mounting, even with rubber 'feet', etc. still vibrates the
> > > bulkhead it's attached to, so you can hear the pump when it is
> > > running -- but it's not particularly intrusive and you don't hear it
> > > over the "whoosh" of the shower, for example.
> > >
> > > I note, too, that I started having a problem with the Microphor
> > > toilet flushing. It does not "like" water pressure above 50 psi and
> > > doesn't flush properly at the 65 psi from the water pump. I've
> > > learned to open a water faucet valve on the bathroom sink, then flush
> > > the toilet in the fraction of a second before the pump kicks on --
> > > temporarily solving the Microphor problem until I can install a
> > > pressure limiter on the water line that serves the toilet.
> > >
> > > All-in-all, I'm very satisfied with the 6.7 gpm 65 psi variable speed
> > > pump. It has eliminated the two original pumps (that were both
> > > leaking) and the complexity of the related plumbing along with the
> > > accumulator (expansion) tank. (Another source of plumbing woes if the
> > > diaphragm leaks or it becomes de-pressurized.)
> > >
> > > I'm also enthusiastic about PEX tubing (pipe replacement) and the
> > > Flare-It fittings. While special clamped fittings are often used with
> > > PEX (requiring a special clamping tool), the Flare-It fittings don't
> > > require any special tools, but a simple wrench-thing they sell makes
> > > tightening them a breeze (I used a channel-lock plier, but their tool
> > > would probably not leave tool marks like the pliers).
> > >
> > > In retrospect, about the only thing I might have done differently is
> > > to use 1/2 inch I.D. PEX tubing. It would have been much easier to
> > > bend into the loop shapes in the area I had available -- still, I was
> > > successful with the 3/4 inch tubing and it does not restrict the
> > > water flow.
> > >
> > > I do not get "pulsating" very often ... but sometimes, when the
> > > bathroom or kitchen sink faucet is turned on, I see just a little bit
> > > of it -- but it goes away in a moment after the pump fully comes up
> > > to speed. I've never noticed it with the shower but, perhaps, the
> > > flow limiter in the shower head allows the pump to 'catch up' before
> > > any pulsating begins.
> > >
> > > The water is heated in an AquaHot system -- this is a tankless hot
> > > water system, so there shouldn't be any air pockets (as in a hot
> > > water heater) on a newer coach. (I assume you have an AquaHot.)
> > >
> > > Did you install the high-capacity water filter? I note that the
> > > variable speed pump requires a high-flow filter. It was about twice
> > > the size as the water filters used with the old pumps in my coach.
> > >
> > > Rather than an air pocket, there simply may be a restriction
> > > somewhere in the lines into or out of the pump, causing it to be
> > > unable to fully come up to pressure as fast as it should, when a
> > > valve is opened.
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson
> > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > aeonix1@...
>
> > > On the road at Lockhart Texas
> > >
> > > On May 1, 2007, at 2:50 PM, David Brady wrote:
> > >
> > > > I also have the Shurflo Smart Sensor 5.7 65psi pump. My inlet
> > > > and outlet plumbing are long lengths of 3/4" ID tubing. The
> > > > connections to the pump are the Extreme Series Straight
> > > > fitting 3/4" quick connects, part number 94-615-04. These
> > > > fittings eliminate any elbows at both the inlet and
> > > > outlet of the pump. The trouble is, I still get pulsating and
> > > > hunting while the pump tries to zero in on the pressure and flow
> > > > required. Anyone else have this problem? It's worse on the
> > > > hot water than on the cold. I suspect an air pocket somewhere,
> > > > probably in my hot water heater. It gets better with time, but
> > > > by then, my fresh water tank is close to empty, it's time to fill
> > > > up, and the pulsating starts again. Again, I'm thinking an air
> > > > pocket.
> > > >
> > > > David Brady
> > > > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > > > NC
> > > >
> > > > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> THe original pump in my coach provided 40-45 lbs pressure. I
> > > >> installed a ShurFlo variable speed pump that provides 65 lbs
> > > >> pressure. The coach plumbing seems to be 'up' for this although I
> > > >> have an anomaly with the Microphor toilet (it doesn't like pressure
> > > >> above 50#). Mostly, the higher pressure gives you a better "user
> > > >> experience" when you take a shower. The variable speed pump also
> > > >> eliminates the need for the accumulator (expansion) tank.
> > > >>
> > > >> Pete Masterson
> > > >> aeonix1@...
>
> >
> > > >> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> > > >> El Sobrante, CA
> > > >>
> > > >> On May 1, 2007, at 11:35 AM, Keith Strehle wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>> I am going to replace my water pump this weekend. There are
> ShurFlo
> > > >>> pumps available on the shelf for about $70. The pump is
> supposed to
> > > >>> put out 45 psi but I've heard many people here talk about the
> 65 psi
> > > >>> pumps. 65 psi seems a little much. Is 65 psi necessary and how
> much
> > > >>> does the original pump put out?
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Thanks, Keith
> > > >>> 84FC35
> > > >>>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > >> ---
> > > >>
> > > >> No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > >> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > >> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > > >> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:10
AM
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[David Brady]

For those who are interested, the later pumps, after 9/2006
have the pressure adjustment screw. There's a cover on the
end of the pump, the cover will have 5 screws. The center
screw is either philips or torx. That screw adjusts the internal
pressure sensor. If your cover only has 4 screws, then you have
an old pump, and it's not adjustable. Send it back to Shurflo
and get a new pump.

David Brady
'02 LXi, Smokey
NC

David Brady wrote:
>
> More info from Shurflo. Check your pumps Manufacturer
> Build Date. Apparently if the pump was built before Sept.
> 2006 you may have pressure cycling issues. Remove the
> pump, return, and Shurflo will send you a new one. In the
> meantime, turn the adjustment screw 1/4 turn clockwise
> to increase the pump sensing pressure; i.e, the pump won't
> back off as quickly.
>
> David B
> '02 LXi, Smokey
> NC
>
> David Brady wrote:
> >
> > Just got off the phone with Shurflo. Apparently there is
> > an adjustment screw on the pump to adjust the internal
> > pump pressure regulator. I'll give it a try. Otherwise,
> > I may try a replacement pump. The behaviour is that the
> > pump ramps up too rapidly, overshoots, and ramps again.
> >
> > David B
> > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > NC
> >
> > David Brady wrote:
> > >
> > > I called Shurflo and they specified that the pump should have
> > > at least 18 inches of elbow free tubing both at the inlet and
> > > at the outlet. I have much more than that. I don't use any strainer
> > > at all. All tank water is filtered as the tank is filled, so I'm
> > > thinking that the strainer isn't necessary. With the original dual
> > > fuel pumps both used strainers, and the strainers were always
> > > spotless. To quiet the pump even further I mounted it using a
> > > Jabsco vibration pad kit, part number 43990-0058. These legs
> > > provide much more vibration dampening than the original
> > > Shurflo legs. The pump is virtually silent. I do have aquahot.
> > > What I experience, especially on hot water, is: as the hot water
> > > is turned on, the pump ramps up, stops, ramps up again, stops,
> > > and again. It may do this half a dozen times before it settles down.
> > > In the shower, this turns in to variation in temperature. Since the
> > > cold water pressure is fairly constant, the cold water flow stays
> > > the same, but the hot water oscillates. The temperature varies from
> > > say 115 deg F to 120 deg F every second or so. Very annoying.
> > > But then, after say half the fresh water tank is used up, everything
> > > works properly. Maybe another call to Shurflo is in order.
> > >
> > > David B
> > > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > > NC
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Reading the installation instructions with the pump, it cautioned
> > > > about isolating it from vibration to the plumbing. My coach has the
> > > > gray plastic pipe (polybutyl -- that's no longer used as it was the
> > > > subject of class-action lawsuits in the late 90s due to unexpected
> > > > failures in homes and manufactured homes). I purchased "Flare-It"
> > > > fittings from PEX Connection along with a few feet of 3/4 inch I.D.
> > > > PEX tubing. PEX can be bent around corners so long as it has a
> > > > suitable bending circumference (which is a chore to accomplish
> in the
> > > > space available for the pump). So, from the end of the original
> > > > plumbing, I have a 3' section of PEX looped to turn 90 degrees to
> > > > enter the pump, which is mounted on one of the (apparently) wooden
> > > > boards attached to a metal bulkhead where one of the original dual
> > > > pumps was located. Again, on the outside, I have another similar 3'
> > > > section of PEX with a large loop to connect to the outbound original
> > > > plumbing. This effectively isolates the pump from transmitting
> > > > vibrations through the plumbing system. The PEX tubing is (somewhat)
> > > > flexible and the dual curves allow
> vibration/expansion/contraction as
> > > > necessary.
> > > >
> > > > The higher pressure did not cause any unexpected problems with the
> > > > existing plumbing -- except the main fresh water drain valve started
> > > > leaking from a long-existing crack in the plastic valve body. (I
> > > > could see that it had been present for some time due to the dirt/
> > > > corrosion present.) I then replaced the drain valve and associated
> > > > fittings with brass or white plastic as appropriate.
> > > >
> > > > The pump doesn't vibrate the plumbing but it isn't exactly "silent."
> > > > The mounting, even with rubber 'feet', etc. still vibrates the
> > > > bulkhead it's attached to, so you can hear the pump when it is
> > > > running -- but it's not particularly intrusive and you don't hear it
> > > > over the "whoosh" of the shower, for example.
> > > >
> > > > I note, too, that I started having a problem with the Microphor
> > > > toilet flushing. It does not "like" water pressure above 50 psi and
> > > > doesn't flush properly at the 65 psi from the water pump. I've
> > > > learned to open a water faucet valve on the bathroom sink, then
> flush
> > > > the toilet in the fraction of a second before the pump kicks on --
> > > > temporarily solving the Microphor problem until I can install a
> > > > pressure limiter on the water line that serves the toilet.
> > > >
> > > > All-in-all, I'm very satisfied with the 6.7 gpm 65 psi variable
> speed
> > > > pump. It has eliminated the two original pumps (that were both
> > > > leaking) and the complexity of the related plumbing along with the
> > > > accumulator (expansion) tank. (Another source of plumbing woes
> if the
> > > > diaphragm leaks or it becomes de-pressurized.)
> > > >
> > > > I'm also enthusiastic about PEX tubing (pipe replacement) and the
> > > > Flare-It fittings. While special clamped fittings are often used
> with
> > > > PEX (requiring a special clamping tool), the Flare-It fittings don't
> > > > require any special tools, but a simple wrench-thing they sell makes
> > > > tightening them a breeze (I used a channel-lock plier, but their
> tool
> > > > would probably not leave tool marks like the pliers).
> > > >
> > > > In retrospect, about the only thing I might have done differently is
> > > > to use 1/2 inch I.D. PEX tubing. It would have been much easier to
> > > > bend into the loop shapes in the area I had available -- still,
> I was
> > > > successful with the 3/4 inch tubing and it does not restrict the
> > > > water flow.
> > > >
> > > > I do not get "pulsating" very often ... but sometimes, when the
> > > > bathroom or kitchen sink faucet is turned on, I see just a
> little bit
> > > > of it -- but it goes away in a moment after the pump fully comes up
> > > > to speed. I've never noticed it with the shower but, perhaps, the
> > > > flow limiter in the shower head allows the pump to 'catch up' before
> > > > any pulsating begins.
> > > >
> > > > The water is heated in an AquaHot system -- this is a tankless hot
> > > > water system, so there shouldn't be any air pockets (as in a hot
> > > > water heater) on a newer coach. (I assume you have an AquaHot.)
> > > >
> > > > Did you install the high-capacity water filter? I note that the
> > > > variable speed pump requires a high-flow filter. It was about twice
> > > > the size as the water filters used with the old pumps in my coach.
> > > >
> > > > Rather than an air pocket, there simply may be a restriction
> > > > somewhere in the lines into or out of the pump, causing it to be
> > > > unable to fully come up to pressure as fast as it should, when a
> > > > valve is opened.
> > > >
> > > > Pete Masterson
> > > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > > aeonix1@...
>
> >
> > > > On the road at Lockhart Texas
> > > >
> > > > On May 1, 2007, at 2:50 PM, David Brady wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I also have the Shurflo Smart Sensor 5.7 65psi pump. My inlet
> > > > > and outlet plumbing are long lengths of 3/4" ID tubing. The
> > > > > connections to the pump are the Extreme Series Straight
> > > > > fitting 3/4" quick connects, part number 94-615-04. These
> > > > > fittings eliminate any elbows at both the inlet and
> > > > > outlet of the pump. The trouble is, I still get pulsating and
> > > > > hunting while the pump tries to zero in on the pressure and flow
> > > > > required. Anyone else have this problem? It's worse on the
> > > > > hot water than on the cold. I suspect an air pocket somewhere,
> > > > > probably in my hot water heater. It gets better with time, but
> > > > > by then, my fresh water tank is close to empty, it's time to fill
> > > > > up, and the pulsating starts again. Again, I'm thinking an air
> > > > > pocket.
> > > > >
> > > > > David Brady
> > > > > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > > > > NC
> > > > >
> > > > > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >> THe original pump in my coach provided 40-45 lbs pressure. I
> > > > >> installed a ShurFlo variable speed pump that provides 65 lbs
> > > > >> pressure. The coach plumbing seems to be 'up' for this although I
> > > > >> have an anomaly with the Microphor toilet (it doesn't like
> pressure
> > > > >> above 50#). Mostly, the higher pressure gives you a better "user
> > > > >> experience" when you take a shower. The variable speed pump also
> > > > >> eliminates the need for the accumulator (expansion) tank.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Pete Masterson
> > > > >> aeonix1@...
>
> >
> > >
> > > > >> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> > > > >> El Sobrante, CA
> > > > >>
> > > > >> On May 1, 2007, at 11:35 AM, Keith Strehle wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >>> I am going to replace my water pump this weekend. There are
> > ShurFlo
> > > > >>> pumps available on the shelf for about $70. The pump is
> > supposed to
> > > > >>> put out 45 psi but I've heard many people here talk about the
> > 65 psi
> > > > >>> pumps. 65 psi seems a little much. Is 65 psi necessary and how
> > much
> > > > >>> does the original pump put out?
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Thanks, Keith
> > > > >>> 84FC35
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > > >> ---
> > > > >>
> > > > >> No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > >> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > >> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > > > >> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > > 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:10
AM
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Gregory OConnor]

David, I wonder if head pressure is the cause of the fluctuating hot
water issue. Because after 1/2 the tank of fresh water is up, the
problem stops.?????????? If the tank outlet to the pump is on the
bottom of the potable tank?????? the hot water tank is pressurized by
cold fresh water via the pump and it may flow in too fast and the
pressure control is effected by the loss in psi on discharge side
with the higher then able gpm flow. If there is a valve on the inlet
to the Hot water tank you can try and close it some to restrict gpm
flow and psi loss. or just pinch it with a vice ( if soft
tubing)??????????

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, David Brady
wrote:
>
> I called Shurflo and they specified that the pump should have
> at least 18 inches of elbow free tubing both at the inlet and
> at the outlet. I have much more than that. I don't use any strainer
> at all. All tank water is filtered as the tank is filled, so I'm
> thinking that the strainer isn't necessary. With the original dual
> fuel pumps both used strainers, and the strainers were always
> spotless. To quiet the pump even further I mounted it using a
> Jabsco vibration pad kit, part number 43990-0058. These legs
> provide much more vibration dampening than the original
> Shurflo legs. The pump is virtually silent. I do have aquahot.
> What I experience, especially on hot water, is: as the hot water
> is turned on, the pump ramps up, stops, ramps up again, stops,
> and again. It may do this half a dozen times before it settles down.
> In the shower, this turns in to variation in temperature. Since the
> cold water pressure is fairly constant, the cold water flow stays
> the same, but the hot water oscillates. The temperature varies from
> say 115 deg F to 120 deg F every second or so. Very annoying.
> But then, after say half the fresh water tank is used up, everything
> works properly. Maybe another call to Shurflo is in order.
>
> David B
> '02 LXi, Smokey
> NC
>
> Pete Masterson wrote:
> >
> > Reading the installation instructions with the pump, it cautioned
> > about isolating it from vibration to the plumbing. My coach has
the
> > gray plastic pipe (polybutyl -- that's no longer used as it was
the
> > subject of class-action lawsuits in the late 90s due to unexpected
> > failures in homes and manufactured homes). I purchased "Flare-It"
> > fittings from PEX Connection along with a few feet of 3/4 inch
I.D.
> > PEX tubing. PEX can be bent around corners so long as it has a
> > suitable bending circumference (which is a chore to accomplish in
the
> > space available for the pump). So, from the end of the original
> > plumbing, I have a 3' section of PEX looped to turn 90 degrees to
> > enter the pump, which is mounted on one of the (apparently) wooden
> > boards attached to a metal bulkhead where one of the original dual
> > pumps was located. Again, on the outside, I have another similar
3'
> > section of PEX with a large loop to connect to the outbound
original
> > plumbing. This effectively isolates the pump from transmitting
> > vibrations through the plumbing system. The PEX tubing is
(somewhat)
> > flexible and the dual curves allow
vibration/expansion/contraction as
> > necessary.
> >
> > The higher pressure did not cause any unexpected problems with the
> > existing plumbing -- except the main fresh water drain valve
started
> > leaking from a long-existing crack in the plastic valve body. (I
> > could see that it had been present for some time due to the dirt/
> > corrosion present.) I then replaced the drain valve and associated
> > fittings with brass or white plastic as appropriate.
> >
> > The pump doesn't vibrate the plumbing but it isn't
exactly "silent."
> > The mounting, even with rubber 'feet', etc. still vibrates the
> > bulkhead it's attached to, so you can hear the pump when it is
> > running -- but it's not particularly intrusive and you don't hear
it
> > over the "whoosh" of the shower, for example.
> >
> > I note, too, that I started having a problem with the Microphor
> > toilet flushing. It does not "like" water pressure above 50 psi
and
> > doesn't flush properly at the 65 psi from the water pump. I've
> > learned to open a water faucet valve on the bathroom sink, then
flush
> > the toilet in the fraction of a second before the pump kicks on --
> > temporarily solving the Microphor problem until I can install a
> > pressure limiter on the water line that serves the toilet.
> >
> > All-in-all, I'm very satisfied with the 6.7 gpm 65 psi variable
speed
> > pump. It has eliminated the two original pumps (that were both
> > leaking) and the complexity of the related plumbing along with the
> > accumulator (expansion) tank. (Another source of plumbing woes if
the
> > diaphragm leaks or it becomes de-pressurized.)
> >
> > I'm also enthusiastic about PEX tubing (pipe replacement) and the
> > Flare-It fittings. While special clamped fittings are often used
with
> > PEX (requiring a special clamping tool), the Flare-It fittings
don't
> > require any special tools, but a simple wrench-thing they sell
makes
> > tightening them a breeze (I used a channel-lock plier, but their
tool
> > would probably not leave tool marks like the pliers).
> >
> > In retrospect, about the only thing I might have done differently
is
> > to use 1/2 inch I.D. PEX tubing. It would have been much easier to
> > bend into the loop shapes in the area I had available -- still, I
was
> > successful with the 3/4 inch tubing and it does not restrict the
> > water flow.
> >
> > I do not get "pulsating" very often ... but sometimes, when the
> > bathroom or kitchen sink faucet is turned on, I see just a little
bit
> > of it -- but it goes away in a moment after the pump fully comes
up
> > to speed. I've never noticed it with the shower but, perhaps, the
> > flow limiter in the shower head allows the pump to 'catch up'
before
> > any pulsating begins.
> >
> > The water is heated in an AquaHot system -- this is a tankless hot
> > water system, so there shouldn't be any air pockets (as in a hot
> > water heater) on a newer coach. (I assume you have an AquaHot.)
> >
> > Did you install the high-capacity water filter? I note that the
> > variable speed pump requires a high-flow filter. It was about
twice
> > the size as the water filters used with the old pumps in my coach.
> >
> > Rather than an air pocket, there simply may be a restriction
> > somewhere in the lines into or out of the pump, causing it to be
> > unable to fully come up to pressure as fast as it should, when a
> > valve is opened.
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > aeonix1@...
> > On the road at Lockhart Texas
> >
> > On May 1, 2007, at 2:50 PM, David Brady wrote:
> >
> > > I also have the Shurflo Smart Sensor 5.7 65psi pump. My inlet
> > > and outlet plumbing are long lengths of 3/4" ID tubing. The
> > > connections to the pump are the Extreme Series Straight
> > > fitting 3/4" quick connects, part number 94-615-04. These
> > > fittings eliminate any elbows at both the inlet and
> > > outlet of the pump. The trouble is, I still get pulsating and
> > > hunting while the pump tries to zero in on the pressure and flow
> > > required. Anyone else have this problem? It's worse on the
> > > hot water than on the cold. I suspect an air pocket somewhere,
> > > probably in my hot water heater. It gets better with time, but
> > > by then, my fresh water tank is close to empty, it's time to
fill
> > > up, and the pulsating starts again. Again, I'm thinking an air
> > > pocket.
> > >
> > > David Brady
> > > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > > NC
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > >>
> > >> THe original pump in my coach provided 40-45 lbs pressure. I
> > >> installed a ShurFlo variable speed pump that provides 65 lbs
> > >> pressure. The coach plumbing seems to be 'up' for this
although I
> > >> have an anomaly with the Microphor toilet (it doesn't like
pressure
> > >> above 50#). Mostly, the higher pressure gives you a
better "user
> > >> experience" when you take a shower. The variable speed pump
also
> > >> eliminates the need for the accumulator (expansion) tank.
> > >>
> > >> Pete Masterson
> > >> aeonix1@... 40mac.com>
> > >> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> > >> El Sobrante, CA
> > >>
> > >> On May 1, 2007, at 11:35 AM, Keith Strehle wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> I am going to replace my water pump this weekend. There are
ShurFlo
> > >>> pumps available on the shelf for about $70. The pump is
supposed to
> > >>> put out 45 psi but I've heard many people here talk about the
65 psi
> > >>> pumps. 65 psi seems a little much. Is 65 psi necessary and
how much
> > >>> does the original pump put out?
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks, Keith
> > >>> 84FC35
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ----------------------------------------------------------
> > >> ---
> > >>
> > >> No virus found in this incoming message.
> > >> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > >> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > >> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[David Brady]

Could be. The pump seems to behave a lot better when the
water level goes down. In fact a tank that's half full puts the
head pressure at zero psi cause the water pump is bolted to
a one and a half foot high platform. (Pump is at the same height
as the water level). I did a quick calculation, a 2 ft high column
of water only generates 1 psi, but this may be enough to overwhelm
the sensitivity of the pumps pressure sensor. There may be
something to what you're saying: "the pressure control is effected
by the loss in psi on the discharge side". I'd like to remedy this
by altering the sensitivity of the pressure sensor; i.e, make it
less sensitive. I'm away from the coach so tinkering will have to
wait. Shurflo tech support seems to be clued in to this issue. The
new pumps have a pressures sensitivity adjustment. They said,
"turn on a faucet and turn the adjusting screw clockwise until
the pressure oscillations stop". At least they added the adjustment
ability.

Thanks for the suggestion,
David B
'02 LXi, Smokey
NC

Gregory OConnor wrote:
>
> David, I wonder if head pressure is the cause of the fluctuating hot
> water issue. Because after 1/2 the tank of fresh water is up, the
> problem stops.?????????? If the tank outlet to the pump is on the
> bottom of the potable tank?????? the hot water tank is pressurized by
> cold fresh water via the pump and it may flow in too fast and the
> pressure control is effected by the loss in psi on discharge side
> with the higher then able gpm flow. If there is a valve on the inlet
> to the Hot water tank you can try and close it some to restrict gpm
> flow and psi loss. or just pinch it with a vice ( if soft
> tubing)??????????
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , David Brady
> wrote:
> >
> > I called Shurflo and they specified that the pump should have
> > at least 18 inches of elbow free tubing both at the inlet and
> > at the outlet. I have much more than that. I don't use any strainer
> > at all. All tank water is filtered as the tank is filled, so I'm
> > thinking that the strainer isn't necessary. With the original dual
> > fuel pumps both used strainers, and the strainers were always
> > spotless. To quiet the pump even further I mounted it using a
> > Jabsco vibration pad kit, part number 43990-0058. These legs
> > provide much more vibration dampening than the original
> > Shurflo legs. The pump is virtually silent. I do have aquahot.
> > What I experience, especially on hot water, is: as the hot water
> > is turned on, the pump ramps up, stops, ramps up again, stops,
> > and again. It may do this half a dozen times before it settles down.
> > In the shower, this turns in to variation in temperature. Since the
> > cold water pressure is fairly constant, the cold water flow stays
> > the same, but the hot water oscillates. The temperature varies from
> > say 115 deg F to 120 deg F every second or so. Very annoying.
> > But then, after say half the fresh water tank is used up, everything
> > works properly. Maybe another call to Shurflo is in order.
> >
> > David B
> > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > NC
> >
> > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > >
> > > Reading the installation instructions with the pump, it cautioned
> > > about isolating it from vibration to the plumbing. My coach has
> the
> > > gray plastic pipe (polybutyl -- that's no longer used as it was
> the
> > > subject of class-action lawsuits in the late 90s due to unexpected
> > > failures in homes and manufactured homes). I purchased "Flare-It"
> > > fittings from PEX Connection along with a few feet of 3/4 inch
> I.D.
> > > PEX tubing. PEX can be bent around corners so long as it has a
> > > suitable bending circumference (which is a chore to accomplish in
> the
> > > space available for the pump). So, from the end of the original
> > > plumbing, I have a 3' section of PEX looped to turn 90 degrees to
> > > enter the pump, which is mounted on one of the (apparently) wooden
> > > boards attached to a metal bulkhead where one of the original dual
> > > pumps was located. Again, on the outside, I have another similar
> 3'
> > > section of PEX with a large loop to connect to the outbound
> original
> > > plumbing. This effectively isolates the pump from transmitting
> > > vibrations through the plumbing system. The PEX tubing is
> (somewhat)
> > > flexible and the dual curves allow
> vibration/expansion/contraction as
> > > necessary.
> > >
> > > The higher pressure did not cause any unexpected problems with the
> > > existing plumbing -- except the main fresh water drain valve
> started
> > > leaking from a long-existing crack in the plastic valve body. (I
> > > could see that it had been present for some time due to the dirt/
> > > corrosion present.) I then replaced the drain valve and associated
> > > fittings with brass or white plastic as appropriate.
> > >
> > > The pump doesn't vibrate the plumbing but it isn't
> exactly "silent."
> > > The mounting, even with rubber 'feet', etc. still vibrates the
> > > bulkhead it's attached to, so you can hear the pump when it is
> > > running -- but it's not particularly intrusive and you don't hear
> it
> > > over the "whoosh" of the shower, for example.
> > >
> > > I note, too, that I started having a problem with the Microphor
> > > toilet flushing. It does not "like" water pressure above 50 psi
> and
> > > doesn't flush properly at the 65 psi from the water pump. I've
> > > learned to open a water faucet valve on the bathroom sink, then
> flush
> > > the toilet in the fraction of a second before the pump kicks on --
> > > temporarily solving the Microphor problem until I can install a
> > > pressure limiter on the water line that serves the toilet.
> > >
> > > All-in-all, I'm very satisfied with the 6.7 gpm 65 psi variable
> speed
> > > pump. It has eliminated the two original pumps (that were both
> > > leaking) and the complexity of the related plumbing along with the
> > > accumulator (expansion) tank. (Another source of plumbing woes if
> the
> > > diaphragm leaks or it becomes de-pressurized.)
> > >
> > > I'm also enthusiastic about PEX tubing (pipe replacement) and the
> > > Flare-It fittings. While special clamped fittings are often used
> with
> > > PEX (requiring a special clamping tool), the Flare-It fittings
> don't
> > > require any special tools, but a simple wrench-thing they sell
> makes
> > > tightening them a breeze (I used a channel-lock plier, but their
> tool
> > > would probably not leave tool marks like the pliers).
> > >
> > > In retrospect, about the only thing I might have done differently
> is
> > > to use 1/2 inch I.D. PEX tubing. It would have been much easier to
> > > bend into the loop shapes in the area I had available -- still, I
> was
> > > successful with the 3/4 inch tubing and it does not restrict the
> > > water flow.
> > >
> > > I do not get "pulsating" very often ... but sometimes, when the
> > > bathroom or kitchen sink faucet is turned on, I see just a little
> bit
> > > of it -- but it goes away in a moment after the pump fully comes
> up
> > > to speed. I've never noticed it with the shower but, perhaps, the
> > > flow limiter in the shower head allows the pump to 'catch up'
> before
> > > any pulsating begins.
> > >
> > > The water is heated in an AquaHot system -- this is a tankless hot
> > > water system, so there shouldn't be any air pockets (as in a hot
> > > water heater) on a newer coach. (I assume you have an AquaHot.)
> > >
> > > Did you install the high-capacity water filter? I note that the
> > > variable speed pump requires a high-flow filter. It was about
> twice
> > > the size as the water filters used with the old pumps in my coach.
> > >
> > > Rather than an air pocket, there simply may be a restriction
> > > somewhere in the lines into or out of the pump, causing it to be
> > > unable to fully come up to pressure as fast as it should, when a
> > > valve is opened.
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson
> > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > aeonix1@...
> > > On the road at Lockhart Texas
> > >
> > > On May 1, 2007, at 2:50 PM, David Brady wrote:
> > >
> > > > I also have the Shurflo Smart Sensor 5.7 65psi pump. My inlet
> > > > and outlet plumbing are long lengths of 3/4" ID tubing. The
> > > > connections to the pump are the Extreme Series Straight
> > > > fitting 3/4" quick connects, part number 94-615-04. These
> > > > fittings eliminate any elbows at both the inlet and
> > > > outlet of the pump. The trouble is, I still get pulsating and
> > > > hunting while the pump tries to zero in on the pressure and flow
> > > > required. Anyone else have this problem? It's worse on the
> > > > hot water than on the cold. I suspect an air pocket somewhere,
> > > > probably in my hot water heater. It gets better with time, but
> > > > by then, my fresh water tank is close to empty, it's time to
> fill
> > > > up, and the pulsating starts again. Again, I'm thinking an air
> > > > pocket.
> > > >
> > > > David Brady
> > > > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > > > NC
> > > >
> > > > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> THe original pump in my coach provided 40-45 lbs pressure. I
> > > >> installed a ShurFlo variable speed pump that provides 65 lbs
> > > >> pressure. The coach plumbing seems to be 'up' for this
> although I
> > > >> have an anomaly with the Microphor toilet (it doesn't like
> pressure
> > > >> above 50#). Mostly, the higher pressure gives you a
> better "user
> > > >> experience" when you take a shower. The variable speed pump
> also
> > > >> eliminates the need for the accumulator (expansion) tank.
> > > >>
> > > >> Pete Masterson
> > > >> aeonix1@... > 40mac.com>
> > > >> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> > > >> El Sobrante, CA
> > > >>
> > > >> On May 1, 2007, at 11:35 AM, Keith Strehle wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>> I am going to replace my water pump this weekend. There are
> ShurFlo
> > > >>> pumps available on the shelf for about $70. The pump is
> supposed to
> > > >>> put out 45 psi but I've heard many people here talk about the
> 65 psi
> > > >>> pumps. 65 psi seems a little much. Is 65 psi necessary and
> how much
> > > >>> does the original pump put out?
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Thanks, Keith
> > > >>> 84FC35
> > > >>>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > >> ---
> > > >>
> > > >> No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > >> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > >> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > > >> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> ------
> > >
> > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:10
AM
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ac7880]

If you want another company to check out, check the Aquatec water
pumps. They are the same technology, and have a pressure adjustment
1/16 allen head. Counterclockwise lowers the pressure.

http://www.aquatec.com/
They have 60 PSI adjustable downwards, in 2 pumps, either a 3.5 GPM,
or a 5 GPM. I went 3.5 GPM for longer stays boondocking.
Dan
94 BB BMC 37'

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Terry Neal wrote:
>
> Good to know David. I had asked Shurflo a week or so ago if there
was
> any kind of pressure adjustment on this model & they said "no, none
at
> all". I was going to order one but was thinking I should look at
other
> brands & see if something else had any kind of adjustment. Let us
know
> how your issue turns out.
>
> Terry Neal
> Bozeman, MT
> 82PT40 6V92TA
> 74FC34 6V53T
>
>
>
> David Brady wrote:
>
> > Just got off the phone with Shurflo. Apparently there is
> > an adjustment screw on the pump to adjust the internal
> > pump pressure regulator. I'll give it a try. Otherwise,
> > I may try a replacement pump. The behaviour is that the
> > pump ramps up too rapidly, overshoots, and ramps again.
> >
> > David B
> > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > NC
> >
> > David Brady wrote:
> > >
> > > I called Shurflo and they specified that the pump should have
> > > at least 18 inches of elbow free tubing both at the inlet and
> > > at the outlet. I have much more than that. I don't use any
strainer
> > > at all. All tank water is filtered as the tank is filled, so I'm
> > > thinking that the strainer isn't necessary. With the original
dual
> > > fuel pumps both used strainers, and the strainers were always
> > > spotless. To quiet the pump even further I mounted it using a
> > > Jabsco vibration pad kit, part number 43990-0058. These legs
> > > provide much more vibration dampening than the original
> > > Shurflo legs. The pump is virtually silent. I do have aquahot.
> > > What I experience, especially on hot water, is: as the hot water
> > > is turned on, the pump ramps up, stops, ramps up again, stops,
> > > and again. It may do this half a dozen times before it settles
down.
> > > In the shower, this turns in to variation in temperature. Since
the
> > > cold water pressure is fairly constant, the cold water flow
stays
> > > the same, but the hot water oscillates. The temperature varies
from
> > > say 115 deg F to 120 deg F every second or so. Very annoying.
> > > But then, after say half the fresh water tank is used up,
everything
> > > works properly. Maybe another call to Shurflo is in order.
> > >
> > > David B
> > > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > > NC
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Reading the installation instructions with the pump, it
cautioned
> > > > about isolating it from vibration to the plumbing. My coach
has the
> > > > gray plastic pipe (polybutyl -- that's no longer used as it
was the
> > > > subject of class-action lawsuits in the late 90s due to
unexpected
> > > > failures in homes and manufactured homes). I purchased "Flare-
It"
> > > > fittings from PEX Connection along with a few feet of 3/4
inch I.D.
> > > > PEX tubing. PEX can be bent around corners so long as it has a
> > > > suitable bending circumference (which is a chore to
accomplish in the
> > > > space available for the pump). So, from the end of the
original
> > > > plumbing, I have a 3' section of PEX looped to turn 90
degrees to
> > > > enter the pump, which is mounted on one of the (apparently)
wooden
> > > > boards attached to a metal bulkhead where one of the original
dual
> > > > pumps was located. Again, on the outside, I have another
similar 3'
> > > > section of PEX with a large loop to connect to the outbound
original
> > > > plumbing. This effectively isolates the pump from transmitting
> > > > vibrations through the plumbing system. The PEX tubing is
(somewhat)
> > > > flexible and the dual curves allow
vibration/expansion/contraction as
> > > > necessary.
> > > >
> > > > The higher pressure did not cause any unexpected problems
with the
> > > > existing plumbing -- except the main fresh water drain valve
started
> > > > leaking from a long-existing crack in the plastic valve body.
(I
> > > > could see that it had been present for some time due to the
dirt/
> > > > corrosion present.) I then replaced the drain valve and
associated
> > > > fittings with brass or white plastic as appropriate.
> > > >
> > > > The pump doesn't vibrate the plumbing but it isn't
exactly "silent."
> > > > The mounting, even with rubber 'feet', etc. still vibrates the
> > > > bulkhead it's attached to, so you can hear the pump when it is
> > > > running -- but it's not particularly intrusive and you don't
hear it
> > > > over the "whoosh" of the shower, for example.
> > > >
> > > > I note, too, that I started having a problem with the
Microphor
> > > > toilet flushing. It does not "like" water pressure above 50
psi and
> > > > doesn't flush properly at the 65 psi from the water pump. I've
> > > > learned to open a water faucet valve on the bathroom sink,
then flush
> > > > the toilet in the fraction of a second before the pump kicks
on --
> > > > temporarily solving the Microphor problem until I can install
a
> > > > pressure limiter on the water line that serves the toilet.
> > > >
> > > > All-in-all, I'm very satisfied with the 6.7 gpm 65 psi
variable speed
> > > > pump. It has eliminated the two original pumps (that were both
> > > > leaking) and the complexity of the related plumbing along
with the
> > > > accumulator (expansion) tank. (Another source of plumbing
woes if the
> > > > diaphragm leaks or it becomes de-pressurized.)
> > > >
> > > > I'm also enthusiastic about PEX tubing (pipe replacement) and
the
> > > > Flare-It fittings. While special clamped fittings are often
used with
> > > > PEX (requiring a special clamping tool), the Flare-It
fittings don't
> > > > require any special tools, but a simple wrench-thing they
sell makes
> > > > tightening them a breeze (I used a channel-lock plier, but
their tool
> > > > would probably not leave tool marks like the pliers).
> > > >
> > > > In retrospect, about the only thing I might have done
differently is
> > > > to use 1/2 inch I.D. PEX tubing. It would have been much
easier to
> > > > bend into the loop shapes in the area I had available --
still, I was
> > > > successful with the 3/4 inch tubing and it does not restrict
the
> > > > water flow.
> > > >
> > > > I do not get "pulsating" very often ... but sometimes, when
the
> > > > bathroom or kitchen sink faucet is turned on, I see just a
little bit
> > > > of it -- but it goes away in a moment after the pump fully
comes up
> > > > to speed. I've never noticed it with the shower but, perhaps,
the
> > > > flow limiter in the shower head allows the pump to 'catch up'
before
> > > > any pulsating begins.
> > > >
> > > > The water is heated in an AquaHot system -- this is a
tankless hot
> > > > water system, so there shouldn't be any air pockets (as in a
hot
> > > > water heater) on a newer coach. (I assume you have an
AquaHot.)
> > > >
> > > > Did you install the high-capacity water filter? I note that
the
> > > > variable speed pump requires a high-flow filter. It was about
twice
> > > > the size as the water filters used with the old pumps in my
coach.
> > > >
> > > > Rather than an air pocket, there simply may be a restriction
> > > > somewhere in the lines into or out of the pump, causing it to
be
> > > > unable to fully come up to pressure as fast as it should,
when a
> > > > valve is opened.
> > > >
> > > > Pete Masterson
> > > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > > aeonix1@...
> >
> > > > On the road at Lockhart Texas
> > > >
> > > > On May 1, 2007, at 2:50 PM, David Brady wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I also have the Shurflo Smart Sensor 5.7 65psi pump. My
inlet
> > > > > and outlet plumbing are long lengths of 3/4" ID tubing. The
> > > > > connections to the pump are the Extreme Series Straight
> > > > > fitting 3/4" quick connects, part number 94-615-04. These
> > > > > fittings eliminate any elbows at both the inlet and
> > > > > outlet of the pump. The trouble is, I still get pulsating
and
> > > > > hunting while the pump tries to zero in on the pressure and
flow
> > > > > required. Anyone else have this problem? It's worse on the
> > > > > hot water than on the cold. I suspect an air pocket
somewhere,
> > > > > probably in my hot water heater. It gets better with time,
but
> > > > > by then, my fresh water tank is close to empty, it's time
to fill
> > > > > up, and the pulsating starts again. Again, I'm thinking an
air
> > > > > pocket.
> > > > >
> > > > > David Brady
> > > > > '02 LXi, Smokey
> > > > > NC
> > > > >
> > > > > Pete Masterson wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >> THe original pump in my coach provided 40-45 lbs pressure.
I
> > > > >> installed a ShurFlo variable speed pump that provides 65
lbs
> > > > >> pressure. The coach plumbing seems to be 'up' for this
although I
> > > > >> have an anomaly with the Microphor toilet (it doesn't like
pressure
> > > > >> above 50#). Mostly, the higher pressure gives you a
better "user
> > > > >> experience" when you take a shower. The variable speed
pump also
> > > > >> eliminates the need for the accumulator (expansion) tank.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Pete Masterson
> > > > >> aeonix1@...
> >
> > >
> > > > >> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> > > > >> El Sobrante, CA
> > > > >>
> > > > >> On May 1, 2007, at 11:35 AM, Keith Strehle wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >>> I am going to replace my water pump this weekend. There
are
> > ShurFlo
> > > > >>> pumps available on the shelf for about $70. The pump is
> > supposed to
> > > > >>> put out 45 psi but I've heard many people here talk about
the
> > 65 psi
> > > > >>> pumps. 65 psi seems a little much. Is 65 psi necessary
and how
> > much
> > > > >>> does the original pump put out?
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Thanks, Keith
> > > > >>> 84FC35
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > > >> ---
> > > > >>
> > > > >> No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > >> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > >> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release
Date:
> > > > >> 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > > 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date:
> > 5/1/2007 2:10 AM
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>