94pt 8v92 cooling lines to the aircompressor

[Gregory OConnor]

the coolant lines to the engine mounted aircompressor have proven to
fail after 20 years. I think it is from the excess heat that gets
trapped above the transmission / below bedroom.(not vented to engine
bay, may be cause of heat in bedroom?). I replaced the coolant lines
today as a PM (preventativeMaintenance) measure.

there are two lines that run from the passanger side block to the
compressor which is mounted above the transmission bell housing. one
hose 28 inches long and the other about 8 inches long

Short hose. there is a trap door under the carpet between rear
dresser and the bed, just about center. I removed the carpeted
baceboard box that covers wires and pipes, lifted the carpet and
unscrewed a metal plate. under the wires is one more removable
plate. the wire plate attaches to the wall behind the wires and to
the floor. with both plates out you have easy access.

the compressor has several lines 2 coolant 2 oil and two air. the
coolant lines are at the top. a 7/8inch wrench is used to remove the
swival end ( oil uses a 3/4) the short hose attaches to back of the
block. when you remove the line you will see the coolant as a check

Long hose. at the other end of the compressor head is the long hose
attached to the compressor with a 7/8 swival fitting. the hose runs
past the tranny mount between the frame and the block and reattaches
to the block above the starter. I removed the compressor end and cut
the hose to make it easy to slip thru a strap. with the bus jacked
up wheels just on the ground,frame stands and chocks inplace, I
reached over the starter (removed battery power and unplugged
chargers) and found the attachement to the block. there are two
lines attached to the block above the starter one is oil to the
compressor. the one you want is the farthest reach and the swival is
7/8 and hose is larger than the oil. unable to get a full size
wrench on the fitting I uses a "stubby whench". A 7/8crows foot and
socket wrench would best serve to loosen the fitting but I used a
bathroom sink wrench(?) (cheap long handel with a flip/flop little
pipe wrench thing on the end). I made the long hose 5 inches longer
as the OEM was jammed against the frame and 'flex tube vent'.
Install the starter end fitting first to make it easy to line up
the thread. I pointed the '90 degree fitting out of the block'
downward a bit to help clear the 'frame pinch area'. I also bent the
flex tube away frm the block for the new line.

the hosefittings are reusable and I wanted to do so but I could not
get high temp quickie tube. I had hydrolic line made but wonder how
well hydrolic oil hose holds up to coolant product?

took about one hour to remove and 2 to install. it was hard to line
up the fitting above the starter and removal of the starter would
have saved an hour. removal of trap door took an hour also.


both hoses with pressed fittings cost about $60.00. SanDiego
Detroit charged $700. for a 88pt parts and labor (July'08). no trap
door access and required starter removal, sounds way fair.

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

[Curt Sprenger]

Greg,

Good post. It should be saved in the Files Section.Yes, $700.00 does seem fair.

On Fri, Aug 8, 2008 at 8:14 PM, Gregory OConnor <"Gregoryoc@aol.com"> wrote:

the coolant lines to the engine mounted aircompressor have proven to

fail after 20 years. I think it is from the excess heat that gets

trapped above the transmission / below bedroom.(not vented to engine

bay, may be cause of heat in bedroom?). I replaced the coolant lines

today as a PM (preventativeMaintenance) measure.



there are two lines that run from the passanger side block to the

compressor which is mounted above the transmission bell housing. one

hose 28 inches long and the other about 8 inches long



Short hose. there is a trap door under the carpet between rear

dresser and the bed, just about center. I removed the carpeted

baceboard box that covers wires and pipes, lifted the carpet and

unscrewed a metal plate. under the wires is one more removable

plate. the wire plate attaches to the wall behind the wires and to

the floor. with both plates out you have easy access.



the compressor has several lines 2 coolant 2 oil and two air. the

coolant lines are at the top. a 7/8inch wrench is used to remove the

swival end ( oil uses a 3/4) the short hose attaches to back of the

block. when you remove the line you will see the coolant as a check



Long hose. at the other end of the compressor head is the long hose

attached to the compressor with a 7/8 swival fitting. the hose runs

past the tranny mount between the frame and the block and reattaches

to the block above the starter. I removed the compressor end and cut

the hose to make it easy to slip thru a strap. with the bus jacked

up wheels just on the ground,frame stands and chocks inplace, I

reached over the starter (removed battery power and unplugged

chargers) and found the attachement to the block. there are two

lines attached to the block above the starter one is oil to the

compressor. the one you want is the farthest reach and the swival is

7/8 and hose is larger than the oil. unable to get a full size

wrench on the fitting I uses a "stubby whench". A 7/8crows foot and

socket wrench would best serve to loosen the fitting but I used a

bathroom sink wrench(?) (cheap long handel with a flip/flop little

pipe wrench thing on the end). I made the long hose 5 inches longer

as the OEM was jammed against the frame and 'flex tube vent'.

Install the starter end fitting first to make it easy to line up

the thread. I pointed the '90 degree fitting out of the block'

downward a bit to help clear the 'frame pinch area'. I also bent the

flex tube away frm the block for the new line.



the hosefittings are reusable and I wanted to do so but I could not

get high temp quickie tube. I had hydrolic line made but wonder how

well hydrolic oil hose holds up to coolant product?



took about one hour to remove and 2 to install. it was hard to line

up the fitting above the starter and removal of the starter would

have saved an hour. removal of trap door took an hour also.



both hoses with pressed fittings cost about $60.00. SanDiego

Detroit charged $700. for a 88pt parts and labor (July'08). no trap

door access and required starter removal, sounds way fair.



GregoryO'Connor

94ptRomolandCa

--
Curt Sprenger
1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
Anaheim Hills, CA

[Gregory OConnor]

here are some pics of the 8v92 aircompressor coolant lines. at the
fist pic chose next for the next 4 pics
Greg

http://www.pbase.com/gregoryoc/image/102145955




--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> the coolant lines to the engine mounted aircompressor have proven
to
> fail after 20 years. I think it is from the excess heat that gets
> trapped above the transmission / below bedroom.(not vented to
engine
> bay, may be cause of heat in bedroom?). I replaced the coolant
lines
> today as a PM (preventativeMaintenance) measure.
>
> there are two lines that run from the passanger side block to the
> compressor which is mounted above the transmission bell housing.
one
> hose 28 inches long and the other about 8 inches long
>
> Short hose. there is a trap door under the carpet between rear
> dresser and the bed, just about center. I removed the carpeted
> baceboard box that covers wires and pipes, lifted the carpet and
> unscrewed a metal plate. under the wires is one more removable
> plate. the wire plate attaches to the wall behind the wires and to
> the floor. with both plates out you have easy access.
>
> the compressor has several lines 2 coolant 2 oil and two air. the
> coolant lines are at the top. a 7/8inch wrench is used to remove
the
> swival end ( oil uses a 3/4) the short hose attaches to back of
the
> block. when you remove the line you will see the coolant as a check
>
> Long hose. at the other end of the compressor head is the long
hose
> attached to the compressor with a 7/8 swival fitting. the hose
runs
> past the tranny mount between the frame and the block and
reattaches
> to the block above the starter. I removed the compressor end and
cut
> the hose to make it easy to slip thru a strap. with the bus
jacked
> up wheels just on the ground,frame stands and chocks inplace, I
> reached over the starter (removed battery power and unplugged
> chargers) and found the attachement to the block. there are two
> lines attached to the block above the starter one is oil to the
> compressor. the one you want is the farthest reach and the swival
is
> 7/8 and hose is larger than the oil. unable to get a full size
> wrench on the fitting I uses a "stubby whench". A 7/8crows foot
and
> socket wrench would best serve to loosen the fitting but I used a
> bathroom sink wrench(?) (cheap long handel with a flip/flop
little
> pipe wrench thing on the end). I made the long hose 5 inches
longer
> as the OEM was jammed against the frame and 'flex tube vent'.
> Install the starter end fitting first to make it easy to line up
> the thread. I pointed the '90 degree fitting out of the block'
> downward a bit to help clear the 'frame pinch area'. I also bent
the
> flex tube away frm the block for the new line.
>
> the hosefittings are reusable and I wanted to do so but I could
not
> get high temp quickie tube. I had hydrolic line made but wonder
how
> well hydrolic oil hose holds up to coolant product?
>
> took about one hour to remove and 2 to install. it was hard to
line
> up the fitting above the starter and removal of the starter would
> have saved an hour. removal of trap door took an hour also.
>
>
> both hoses with pressed fittings cost about $60.00. SanDiego
> Detroit charged $700. for a 88pt parts and labor (July'08). no
trap
> door access and required starter removal, sounds way fair.
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>

[mbulriss]

Great pics Greg. They made that block mount hose above the starter
look almost easily accessible!

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX






--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> here are some pics of the 8v92 aircompressor coolant lines. at the
> fist pic chose next for the next 4 pics
> Greg
>
> http://www.pbase.com/gregoryoc/image/102145955
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
> wrote:
> >
> > the coolant lines to the engine mounted aircompressor have proven
> to
> > fail after 20 years. I think it is from the excess heat that gets
> > trapped above the transmission / below bedroom.(not vented to
> engine
> > bay, may be cause of heat in bedroom?). I replaced the coolant
> lines
> > today as a PM (preventativeMaintenance) measure.
> >
> > there are two lines that run from the passanger side block to the
> > compressor which is mounted above the transmission bell housing.
> one
> > hose 28 inches long and the other about 8 inches long
> >
> > Short hose. there is a trap door under the carpet between rear
> > dresser and the bed, just about center. I removed the carpeted
> > baceboard box that covers wires and pipes, lifted the carpet and
> > unscrewed a metal plate. under the wires is one more removable
> > plate. the wire plate attaches to the wall behind the wires and to
> > the floor. with both plates out you have easy access.
> >
> > the compressor has several lines 2 coolant 2 oil and two air. the
> > coolant lines are at the top. a 7/8inch wrench is used to remove
> the
> > swival end ( oil uses a 3/4) the short hose attaches to back of
> the
> > block. when you remove the line you will see the coolant as a check
> >
> > Long hose. at the other end of the compressor head is the long
> hose
> > attached to the compressor with a 7/8 swival fitting. the hose
> runs
> > past the tranny mount between the frame and the block and
> reattaches
> > to the block above the starter. I removed the compressor end and
> cut
> > the hose to make it easy to slip thru a strap. with the bus
> jacked
> > up wheels just on the ground,frame stands and chocks inplace, I
> > reached over the starter (removed battery power and unplugged
> > chargers) and found the attachement to the block. there are two
> > lines attached to the block above the starter one is oil to the
> > compressor. the one you want is the farthest reach and the swival
> is
> > 7/8 and hose is larger than the oil. unable to get a full size
> > wrench on the fitting I uses a "stubby whench". A 7/8crows foot
> and
> > socket wrench would best serve to loosen the fitting but I used a
> > bathroom sink wrench(?) (cheap long handel with a flip/flop
> little
> > pipe wrench thing on the end). I made the long hose 5 inches
> longer
> > as the OEM was jammed against the frame and 'flex tube vent'.
> > Install the starter end fitting first to make it easy to line up
> > the thread. I pointed the '90 degree fitting out of the block'
> > downward a bit to help clear the 'frame pinch area'. I also bent
> the
> > flex tube away frm the block for the new line.
> >
> > the hosefittings are reusable and I wanted to do so but I could
> not
> > get high temp quickie tube. I had hydrolic line made but wonder
> how
> > well hydrolic oil hose holds up to coolant product?
> >
> > took about one hour to remove and 2 to install. it was hard to
> line
> > up the fitting above the starter and removal of the starter would
> > have saved an hour. removal of trap door took an hour also.
> >
> >
> > both hoses with pressed fittings cost about $60.00. SanDiego
> > Detroit charged $700. for a 88pt parts and labor (July'08). no
> trap
> > door access and required starter removal, sounds way fair.
> >
> > GregoryO'Connor
> > 94ptRomolandCa
> >
>