A long afternoon

[mbulriss]

Bob,

Good to have you back on the forum. Thanks for the offer to try the 170
t-stats. When you changed the t-stats, did you also change the alarmstat that
controls the fan? I am curious and do not understand why the fan cycled more
often. If you put in lower t-stats without changing the alarmstat, I would have
thought that it would have cycled less often. What am I missing?

Thanks,

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Robert Johannesen wrote:
>
> I dropped my thermoststs to 170s for about 6 months and the fan kept cycling
on and off so often I went back to stock after talking to Detroit. I probably
still have them if you want to try them on your rig.
>
> Â
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: ronmarabito2002
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 1:58:50 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
>
> Â
> Mike: Why do you want to change thermostats to 170's? Good heat without
overheat makes the engine run better and more efficiently. I think 180's is cool
enough.
>
> R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@ .> wrote:
> >
> > I spent all afternoon (into the early evening) opening up the bed and then
the innards to be able to replace alternator #1 - one more time. In mine, I also
have to work around all the plumbing, which was conveniently installed in the
way of the engine hatch! After opening the floor, you can't even see the alt!!!
I have to stand on the tranny and kind of remove the alt by feel. I bought a new
one and replaced it. Not going to screw around rebuilding the old one again -
7000 miles since the last time has soured me on rebuilds. Besides, the new one
was the same price as the last rebuild. This is really not a fun job.
> >
> > After I finished installing the alt, I then installed a replacement turbo
intake tube that I found in a 'reclamation center' (aka: truck junk yard) to
replace the one that broke in South Padre. The weld job did not hold up. If you
want a good laugh, I called Detroit to see about getting a new one, because I
really wanted a new one. When I heard $500 for a piece of exhaust pipe, I
decided to try to find a used one. If anyone knows of a place to get part number
5101394 (yup, it's stamped right on it) for way less than $500, let me know
please. And I used to think Harley parts were high dollar!
> >
> > Man, I am beat up and sore all over! I left the floor open as I want to
remove the 'infamous' coolant hoses to the air pump tomorrow. At least that's
the current plan. I realllllly am not looking forward to that job! I think I
will replace them with braided stainless steel hoses so I never have to do it
again!
> >
> > While I was having fun, the wife pulled each screen window and washed them,
did the Invisible Glass cleaning on each window, and then scrubbed each window
track and silicon lubed them. They slide open really nice now.
> >
> > It seems my to-do list just keeps growing without getting shorter! Is it
just me? I want to change the thermostats to 170s. I need to rebuild the Gast
air pump. I have service the air dryer on the list. I plan to pull the electric
heaters to clean them out. And on and on..... And I haven't even started on the
wife's list of modifications yet! I keep wondering: Are we having fun yet?
> >
> > Long day..... having fun.
> >
> >
> > Mike Bulriss
> > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> > San Antonio, TX
> >
>

[Robert Johannesen]

No, I didn't change the alarmstat - that may have been the cause.

I also wanted the engine to run cooler, but after talking to Detroit, they really wanted it at the higher temp. I wanted to put an oil cooler on it also, but they designed the water/oil heat exchanger on the left side of the block to keep both temps up higher for the 2 cycle. After I replaced the radiator core the engine runs so much better but still at the factory settings. Next is replacing the engine soundproofing.

Since I last saw Ya'll, I went back to work for almost 3 years, but that is a six pack story! We plan to travel about 3 weeks each quater now that both of us have retired (again). And we should be able to make some Lone Star Rallies between Grandparent duties and the BB fix it list!

---

From: mbulriss <mbulriss@...>
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 10:19:36 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon

Bob,

Good to have you back on the forum. Thanks for the offer to try the 170 t-stats. When you changed the t-stats, did you also change the alarmstat that controls the fan? I am curious and do not understand why the fan cycled more often. If you put in lower t-stats without changing the alarmstat, I would have thought that it would have cycled less often. What am I missing?

Thanks,

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", Robert Johannesen wrote:
>
> I dropped my thermoststsÂto 170s for about 6 months and the fan kept cycling on and off so often I went back to stock after talking to Detroit. I probably still have them if you want to try them on your rig.
>
> Â
>

>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> From: ronmarabito2002
> To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com"
> Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 1:58:50 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
>
> Â
> Mike: Why do you want to change thermostats to 170's? Good heat without overheat makes the engine run better and more efficiently. I think 180's is cool enough.
>
> R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@ .> wrote:
> >
> > I spent all afternoon (into the early evening) opening up the bed and then the innards to be able to replace alternator #1 - one more time. In mine, I also have to work around all the
plumbing, which was conveniently installed in the way of the engine hatch! After opening the floor, you can't even see the alt!!! I have to stand on the tranny and kind of remove the alt by feel. I bought a new one and replaced it. Not going to screw around rebuilding the old one again - 7000 miles since the last time has soured me on rebuilds. Besides, the new one was the same price as the last rebuild. This is really not a fun job.
> >
> > After I finished installing the alt, I then installed a replacement turbo intake tube that I found in a 'reclamation center' (aka: truck junk yard) to replace the one that broke in South Padre. The weld job did not hold up. If you want a good laugh, I called Detroit to see about getting a new one, because I really wanted a new one. When I heard $500 for a piece of exhaust pipe, I decided to try to find a used one. If anyone knows of a place to get part number 5101394 (yup, it's stamped right on
it) for way less than $500, let me know please. And I used to think Harley parts were high dollar!
> >
> > Man, I am beat up and sore all over! I left the floor open as I want to remove the 'infamous' coolant hoses to the air pump tomorrow. At least that's the current plan. I realllllly am not looking forward to that job! I think I will replace them with braided stainless steel hoses so I never have to do it again!
> >
> > While I was having fun, the wife pulled each screen window and washed them, did the Invisible Glass cleaning on each window, and then scrubbed each window track and silicon lubed them. They slide open really nice now.
> >
> > It seems my to-do list just keeps growing without getting shorter! Is it just me? I want to change the thermostats to 170s. I need to rebuild the Gast air pump. I have service the air dryer on the list. I plan to pull the electric heaters to clean them
out. And on and on..... And I haven't even started on the wife's list of modifications yet! I keep wondering: Are we having fun yet?
> >
> > Long day..... having fun.
> >
> >
> > Mike Bulriss
> > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> > San Antonio, TX
> >
>

[Bill Jowers]

My 1983 PT35, 6V92T has a small leak at the coolant reservoir box
when under pressure causing an alarm sometimes, but do not know how to access
the coolant reservoir box mounted on the rear end of the coach to repair. Don’t
appear to be accessable by removing the radiator and can’t not find any details
in my blue box of service manuals.

Bill

1983, PT 35 WL, 6V 92 T DD

PC FL

From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Robert Johannesen

Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 10:42 PM

To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon

No, I didn't change the
alarmstat - that may have been the cause.

I also wanted the engine to
run cooler, but after talking to Detroit, they really wanted it at the higher
temp. I wanted to put an oil cooler on it also, but they designed the water/oil
heat exchanger on the left side of the block to keep both temps up higher for
the 2 cycle. After I replaced the radiator core the engine runs so much better
but still at the factory settings. Next is replacing the engine soundproofing.

Since I last saw Ya'll, I
went back to work for almost 3 years, but that is a six pack story! We
plan to travel about 3 weeks each quater now that both of us have retired
(again). And we should be able to make some Lone Star Rallies between
Grandparent duties and the BB fix it list!

---

From: mbulriss
<mbulriss@...>

To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 10:19:36 PM

Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon

Bob,



Good to have you back on the forum. Thanks for the offer to try the 170
t-stats. When you changed the t-stats, did you also change the alarmstat that
controls the fan? I am curious and do not understand why the fan cycled more
often. If you put in lower t-stats without changing the alarmstat, I would have
thought that it would have cycled less often. What am I missing?



Thanks,



Mike Bulriss

1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"

San Antonio, TX



--- In WanderlodgeForum@
yahoogroups. com, Robert Johannesen wrote:

>

> I dropped my thermoststsÂto 170s for about 6 months and the fan kept
cycling on and off so often I went back to stock after talking to Detroit. I
probably still have them if you want to try them on your rig.

>

> Â

>

>

>

> ____________ _________ _________ __

> From: ronmarabito2002

> To: WanderlodgeForum@
yahoogroups. com

> Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 1:58:50 PM

> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon

>

> Â

> Mike: Why do you want to change thermostats to 170's? Good heat without
overheat makes the engine run better and more efficiently. I think 180's is
cool enough.

>

> R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40

>

> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "mbulriss"
<mbulriss@ .> wrote:

> >

> > I spent all afternoon (into the early evening) opening up the bed and
then the innards to be able to replace alternator #1 - one more time. In mine,
I also have to work around all the plumbing, which was conveniently installed
in the way of the engine hatch! After opening the floor, you can't even see the
alt!!! I have to stand on the tranny and kind of remove the alt by feel. I
bought a new one and replaced it. Not going to screw around rebuilding the old
one again - 7000 miles since the last time has soured me on rebuilds. Besides,
the new one was the same price as the last rebuild. This is really not a fun
job.

> >

> > After I finished installing the alt, I then installed a replacement
turbo intake tube that I found in a 'reclamation center' (aka: truck junk yard)
to replace the one that broke in South Padre. The weld job did not hold up. If
you want a good laugh, I called Detroit to see about getting a new one, because
I really wanted a new one. When I heard $500 for a piece of exhaust pipe, I
decided to try to find a used one. If anyone knows of a place to get part
number 5101394 (yup, it's stamped right on it) for way less than $500, let me
know please. And I used to think Harley parts were high dollar!

> >

> > Man, I am beat up and sore all over! I left the floor open as I want
to remove the 'infamous' coolant hoses to the air pump tomorrow. At least
that's the current plan. I realllllly am not looking forward to that job! I
think I will replace them with braided stainless steel hoses so I never have to
do it again!

> >

> > While I was having fun, the wife pulled each screen window and washed
them, did the Invisible Glass cleaning on each window, and then scrubbed each
window track and silicon lubed them. They slide open really nice now.

> >

> > It seems my to-do list just keeps growing without getting shorter! Is
it just me? I want to change the thermostats to 170s. I need to rebuild the
Gast air pump. I have service the air dryer on the list. I plan to pull the
electric heaters to clean them out. And on and on..... And I haven't even
started on the wife's list of modifications yet! I keep wondering: Are we
having fun yet?

> >

> > Long day..... having fun.

> >

> >

> > Mike Bulriss

> > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"

> > San Antonio, TX

> >

>

[mbulriss]

Hi Bob,

Yes, one alternator runs the whole thing very well. Plus it's a 30 minute fix
to replace number 2 down behind the bumper, versus hours of work to replace
number 1 under the bed. I just kind of like things they way they were built.

I wonder why BB thought too small a cable was killing alt 1? Maybe one of our
electrical gurus can explain it to us. I thought it might be the heat up over
that engine. I note that they installed an air cooling tube on the lower one
behind the bumper, but none on alt 1. In my case, it was the voltage regulator
that went away and started charging at 16.5 volts. That drove all the gauges
crazy!

Send me a picture of your Bird in that great parking spot against the Gulf, for
Bird of the Week, so the rest of us can live vicariously! Wishing we were
there.

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "contrail Bob" wrote:
>
> Hi Mike
> I replaced the #1 Alt. twice on my 93. After the second time It failed again
and I just took it off and left it off. I never had any problem's with the # 2
and it charged everything just fine. Talking to BB sometime later I was told
that the cable's were too small and they thought that was the problem with
premature failure of #1??????
> Bob 99LX SK..SPI till 20Mar.
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@> wrote:
> >
> > I spent all afternoon (into the early evening) opening up the bed and then
the innards to be able to replace alternator #1 - one more time. In mine, I
also have to work around all the plumbing, which was conveniently installed in
the way of the engine hatch! After opening the floor, you can't even see the
alt!!! I have to stand on the tranny and kind of remove the alt by feel. I
bought a new one and replaced it. Not going to screw around rebuilding the old
one again - 7000 miles since the last time has soured me on rebuilds. Besides,
the new one was the same price as the last rebuild. This is really not a fun
job.
> >
> > After I finished installing the alt, I then installed a replacement turbo
intake tube that I found in a 'reclamation center' (aka: truck junk yard) to
replace the one that broke in South Padre. The weld job did not hold up. If
you want a good laugh, I called Detroit to see about getting a new one, because
I really wanted a new one. When I heard $500 for a piece of exhaust pipe, I
decided to try to find a used one. If anyone knows of a place to get part
number 5101394 (yup, it's stamped right on it) for way less than $500, let me
know please. And I used to think Harley parts were high dollar!
> >
> > Man, I am beat up and sore all over! I left the floor open as I want to
remove the 'infamous' coolant hoses to the air pump tomorrow. At least that's
the current plan. I realllllly am not looking forward to that job! I think I
will replace them with braided stainless steel hoses so I never have to do it
again!
> >
> > While I was having fun, the wife pulled each screen window and washed them,
did the Invisible Glass cleaning on each window, and then scrubbed each window
track and silicon lubed them. They slide open really nice now.
> >
> > It seems my to-do list just keeps growing without getting shorter! Is it
just me? I want to change the thermostats to 170s. I need to rebuild the Gast
air pump. I have service the air dryer on the list. I plan to pull the
electric heaters to clean them out. And on and on..... And I haven't even
started on the wife's list of modifications yet! I keep wondering: Are we
having fun yet?
> >
> > Long day..... having fun.
> >
> >
> > Mike Bulriss
> > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> > San Antonio, TX
> >
>

[Leroy]

I am interested in this engine thermostat phenomenom. I messed with my cooling
system for months and found a combination that works well for me.
The engine thermostats do not control the fan cycles on my coach. I don't
believe they do on yours. Could be wrong. An separate system incorporating an
Alarmstat does that. Stock Alarmstats were 195 degrees with an approximate 8-10
degree spread. The fan cycled to high at 203-205 and back to about 193 at fan
idle. I run a 190 degree Alarmstat with 180 degree thermostats. I can see the
movement on the gauge and the VMSpc. My spread is between 188 and 195 depending
on OAT. If I run my fan on override it holds at 180 in winter and 190 in summer.
I sure would like to know how your fan is configured and why it would be cycling
after you changed thermostats. If it ran 170 all the time it should never cycle
but remain in idle or about 500rpm.

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Robert Johannesen wrote:
>
> I dropped my thermoststs to 170s for about 6 months and the fan kept cycling
on and off so often I went back to stock after talking to Detroit. I probably
still have them if you want to try them on your rig.
>
> Â
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: ronmarabito2002
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 1:58:50 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
>
> Â
> Mike: Why do you want to change thermostats to 170's? Good heat without
overheat makes the engine run better and more efficiently. I think 180's is cool
enough.
>
> R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@ .> wrote:
> >
> > I spent all afternoon (into the early evening) opening up the bed and then
the innards to be able to replace alternator #1 - one more time. In mine, I also
have to work around all the plumbing, which was conveniently installed in the
way of the engine hatch! After opening the floor, you can't even see the alt!!!
I have to stand on the tranny and kind of remove the alt by feel. I bought a new
one and replaced it. Not going to screw around rebuilding the old one again -
7000 miles since the last time has soured me on rebuilds. Besides, the new one
was the same price as the last rebuild. This is really not a fun job.
> >
> > After I finished installing the alt, I then installed a replacement turbo
intake tube that I found in a 'reclamation center' (aka: truck junk yard) to
replace the one that broke in South Padre. The weld job did not hold up. If you
want a good laugh, I called Detroit to see about getting a new one, because I
really wanted a new one. When I heard $500 for a piece of exhaust pipe, I
decided to try to find a used one. If anyone knows of a place to get part number
5101394 (yup, it's stamped right on it) for way less than $500, let me know
please. And I used to think Harley parts were high dollar!
> >
> > Man, I am beat up and sore all over! I left the floor open as I want to
remove the 'infamous' coolant hoses to the air pump tomorrow. At least that's
the current plan. I realllllly am not looking forward to that job! I think I
will replace them with braided stainless steel hoses so I never have to do it
again!
> >
> > While I was having fun, the wife pulled each screen window and washed them,
did the Invisible Glass cleaning on each window, and then scrubbed each window
track and silicon lubed them. They slide open really nice now.
> >
> > It seems my to-do list just keeps growing without getting shorter! Is it
just me? I want to change the thermostats to 170s. I need to rebuild the Gast
air pump. I have service the air dryer on the list. I plan to pull the electric
heaters to clean them out. And on and on..... And I haven't even started on the
wife's list of modifications yet! I keep wondering: Are we having fun yet?
> >
> > Long day..... having fun.
> >
> >
> > Mike Bulriss
> > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> > San Antonio, TX
> >
>

[Robert Johannesen]

Leroy, I would like to know also! Thanks for your response.

Where is the alarmstat for the fan normally located? I will check and see what its setting is. My goal was to have all the engine temps run lower. My oil temp is now about 230 constantly.

I will go back an read my maintenance log to refresh my memory, because it has been about 10 years since I tried the change. I remember being very disappointed. I know I didn't change my alarmstat for the fan because I didn't realize I had one. It is probably in the hydraulic circuit between the pump and the valve that opens the flow and maybe I can read the setting on the device itself.

I will go back and research the system (I think I have the applicable BB prints)again because I do want it to run cooler (Oil temp and water temp) if possible. I am also not opposed to designing an in line oil cooler.Having it closer to the water temp is OK with me. My heat exchanger for the Oil and water is so close to the frame on the left side of the block that it cannot be removed to inspect or examine it.
I may set up and try my alarmstat the way you did sinceyou seem like it that way and your temps are very reasonable.

Will let ya'll know. Going back to VaBch next month so I may get it done and check it before then.

Thanks, Bob J.

---

From: Leroy
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, March 5, 2010 4:34:57 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon

I am interested in this engine thermostat phenomenom. I messed with my cooling system for months and found a combination that works well for me.
The engine thermostats do not control the fan cycles on my coach. I don't believe they do on yours. Could be wrong. An separate system incorporating an Alarmstat does that. Stock Alarmstats were 195 degrees with an approximate 8-10 degree spread. The fan cycled to high at 203-205 and back to about 193 at fan idle. I run a 190 degree Alarmstat with 180 degree thermostats. I can see the movement on the gauge and the VMSpc. My spread is between 188 and 195 depending on OAT. If I run my fan on override it holds at 180 in winter and 190 in summer.
I sure would like to know how your fan is configured and why it would be cycling after you changed thermostats. If it ran 170 all the time it should never cycle but remain in idle or about 500rpm.

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", Robert Johannesen wrote:
>
> I dropped my thermoststsÂto 170s for about 6 months and the fan kept cycling on and off so often I went back to stock after talking to Detroit. I probably still have them if you want to try them on your rig.
>
> Â
>
>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> From: ronmarabito2002
> To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com"
> Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 1:58:50 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
>
> Â
> Mike: Why do you want to change thermostats to 170's? Good heat without overheat makes the
engine run better and more efficiently. I think 180's is cool enough.
>
> R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@ .> wrote:
> >
> > I spent all afternoon (into the early evening) opening up the bed and then the innards to be able to replace alternator #1 - one more time. In mine, I also have to work around all the plumbing, which was conveniently installed in the way of the engine hatch! After opening the floor, you can't even see the alt!!! I have to stand on the tranny and kind of remove the alt by feel. I bought a new one and replaced it. Not going to screw around rebuilding the old one again - 7000 miles since the last time has soured me on rebuilds. Besides, the new one was the same price as the last rebuild. This is really not a fun job.
> >
> > After I finished installing the alt, I then installed a replacement
turbo intake tube that I found in a 'reclamation center' (aka: truck junk yard) to replace the one that broke in South Padre. The weld job did not hold up. If you want a good laugh, I called Detroit to see about getting a new one, because I really wanted a new one. When I heard $500 for a piece of exhaust pipe, I decided to try to find a used one. If anyone knows of a place to get part number 5101394 (yup, it's stamped right on it) for way less than $500, let me know please. And I used to think Harley parts were high dollar!
> >
> > Man, I am beat up and sore all over! I left the floor open as I want to remove the 'infamous' coolant hoses to the air pump tomorrow. At least that's the current plan. I realllllly am not looking forward to that job! I think I will replace them with braided stainless steel hoses so I never have to do it again!
> >
> > While I was having fun, the wife pulled each screen window and washed
them, did the Invisible Glass cleaning on each window, and then scrubbed each window track and silicon lubed them. They slide open really nice now.
> >
> > It seems my to-do list just keeps growing without getting shorter! Is it just me? I want to change the thermostats to 170s. I need to rebuild the Gast air pump. I have service the air dryer on the list. I plan to pull the electric heaters to clean them out. And on and on..... And I haven't even started on the wife's list of modifications yet! I keep wondering: Are we having fun yet?
> >
> > Long day..... having fun.
> >
> >
> > Mike Bulriss
> > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> > San Antonio, TX
> >
>

[Leroy]

The Alarmstat is located on the left hand side of the water pump in the water
jacket of the engine on my coach. It is a bulb looking instrument with two wires
attached to it. The original had screws attaching the wires attached to it. The
replacement has slide on connections. If it has not been painted it may have the
name Kysor on it. The temp range is stamped on the hex part of the instrument.
BB part number for the 190 version which means nothing except for reference
purposes is 1594951. You can see one at http://www.medallionis.com under switches,
senders and sensors, pn 1002-07478-30. The NC version.

As for oil temp mine runs in the 215- 230 range but is affected by OAT, radiator
water temp and road speed. I have messed with that also. My understanding is
there are two Detroit oil coolers which bolt onto the left side of the engine.
They have a different number of cooling plates. It is cooled by the radiator
water. So reduction of the average water temp reduces oil temp but only by about
5-8%. In winter my oil temp will run about 215 at 62mph. In summer is runs 230
at the same speed simply because the average running water temp increases. The
only way to reduce oil temp would be to add an oil cooler. My conclusion on that
issue has been I have not done it. If I did, I believe the way to do it would be
to somehow have the pick up on the pressure side off the main oil filter cycling
oil to a separate air cooled cooler and dump the cooled oil into the pan which
would then reduce overall pan oil temp before it is reintroduced onto the main
oil pump pick up. Or have a larger engine oil cooler which is water cooled
built. Probably cost prohibitive.

I have had lengthy discussions with BB and Detroit. Detroit did not spec the
Alarmstat in BB engines. BB engineers did and I was never able to determine why
it was installed in the first place but speculate it was intended to have the
fan idle to prevent dust from blowing all over creation, including being
inducted into the fins of the radiator while operating off the highway at slower
speeds.

As a practical matter, the Alarmstat forces temps to run higher than I like.
While it is important to heat up the oil to remove moisture this is accomplished
at 180-200 or 230. In aircraft, oil temp typically runs 180-190 and all is well.

So, in the summer I personally run my coach on fan override after I get on the
highway and that keeps temps at a solid 190 on the water and around 220-230 on
the oil. I simply shut off the fan override before leaving the highway and let
the alarmstat control things them. In winter I allow the Alarmstat to do its
thing.

I know, the fan supposedly robs horsepower. I have not been able to prove that
either using the computer. Besides, I have a solid argument regarding horsepower
and that fan which I will not go into indepth here. It is simple. On the flat
you are not using the HP. Climbing the mountain it is not available because the
fan is on high: That assumes the HP rob was there in the first place.

Hope this gives you some insight into the ops.






--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Robert Johannesen wrote:
>
> Â Â Â Â Leroy, I would like to know also! Thanks for your response.
>
> Â Â Â Â Where is the alarmstat for the fan normally located? I will check and
see what its setting is. My goal was to have all the engine temps run lower.
My oil temp is now about 230 constantly.
> Â Â Â Â I will go back an read my maintenance log to refresh my memory,
because it has been about 10 years since I tried the change. I remember being
very disappointed. I know I didn't change my alarmstat for the fan because I
didn't realize I had one. It is probably in the hydraulic circuit between the
pump and the valve that opens the flow and maybe I can read the setting on the
device itself.
> Â Â Â Â I will go back and research the system (I think I have the applicable
BB prints)Â again because I do want it to run cooler (Oil temp and water temp)
if possible. I am also not opposed to designing an in line oil cooler. Having
it closer to the water temp is OK with me. My heat exchanger for the Oil and
water is so close to the frame on the left side of the block that it cannot be
removed to inspect or examine it.
>      I may set up and try my alarmstat the way you did since you seem
like it that way and your temps are very reasonable.
> Â Â Â Â Will let ya'll know. Going back to VaBch next month so I may get it
done and check it before then.
> Thanks, Bob J.
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Leroy
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Fri, March 5, 2010 4:34:57 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
>
> Â
> I am interested in this engine thermostat phenomenom. I messed with my cooling
system for months and found a combination that works well for me.
> The engine thermostats do not control the fan cycles on my coach. I don't
believe they do on yours. Could be wrong. An separate system incorporating an
Alarmstat does that. Stock Alarmstats were 195 degrees with an approximate 8-10
degree spread. The fan cycled to high at 203-205 and back to about 193 at fan
idle. I run a 190 degree Alarmstat with 180 degree thermostats. I can see the
movement on the gauge and the VMSpc. My spread is between 188 and 195 depending
on OAT. If I run my fan on override it holds at 180 in winter and 190 in summer.
> I sure would like to know how your fan is configured and why it would be
cycling after you changed thermostats. If it ran 170 all the time it should
never cycle but remain in idle or about 500rpm.
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, Robert Johannesen wrote:
> >
> > I dropped my thermoststs to 170s for about 6 months and the fan kept
cycling on and off so often I went back to stock after talking to Detroit. I
probably still have them if you want to try them on your rig.
> >
> > ÂÂ
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > From: ronmarabito2002
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 1:58:50 PM
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
> >
> > ÂÂ
> > Mike: Why do you want to change thermostats to 170's? Good heat without
overheat makes the engine run better and more efficiently. I think 180's is cool
enough.
> >
> > R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@ .> wrote:
> > >
> > > I spent all afternoon (into the early evening) opening up the bed and then
the innards to be able to replace alternator #1 - one more time. In mine, I also
have to work around all the plumbing, which was conveniently installed in the
way of the engine hatch! After opening the floor, you can't even see the alt!!!
I have to stand on the tranny and kind of remove the alt by feel. I bought a new
one and replaced it. Not going to screw around rebuilding the old one again -
7000 miles since the last time has soured me on rebuilds. Besides, the new one
was the same price as the last rebuild. This is really not a fun job.
> > >
> > > After I finished installing the alt, I then installed a replacement turbo
intake tube that I found in a 'reclamation center' (aka: truck junk yard) to
replace the one that broke in South Padre. The weld job did not hold up. If you
want a good laugh, I called Detroit to see about getting a new one, because I
really wanted a new one. When I heard $500 for a piece of exhaust pipe, I
decided to try to find a used one. If anyone knows of a place to get part number
5101394 (yup, it's stamped right on it) for way less than $500, let me know
please. And I used to think Harley parts were high dollar!
> > >
> > > Man, I am beat up and sore all over! I left the floor open as I want to
remove the 'infamous' coolant hoses to the air pump tomorrow. At least that's
the current plan. I realllllly am not looking forward to that job! I think I
will replace them with braided stainless steel hoses so I never have to do it
again!
> > >
> > > While I was having fun, the wife pulled each screen window and washed
them, did the Invisible Glass cleaning on each window, and then scrubbed each
window track and silicon lubed them. They slide open really nice now.
> > >
> > > It seems my to-do list just keeps growing without getting shorter! Is it
just me? I want to change the thermostats to 170s. I need to rebuild the Gast
air pump. I have service the air dryer on the list. I plan to pull the electric
heaters to clean them out. And on and on..... And I haven't even started on the
wife's list of modifications yet! I keep wondering: Are we having fun yet?
> > >
> > > Long day..... having fun.
> > >
> > >
> > > Mike Bulriss
> > > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> > > San Antonio, TX
> > >
> >
>

[Robert Johannesen]

Thanks, Leroy - sounds like we have gone through the same thought processes. I will check it soon. As an aviator myself, 230 degrees of oil temp bothers me!

Bob J

---

From: Leroy
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, March 6, 2010 8:08:21 AM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon

The Alarmstat is located on the left hand side of the water pump in the water jacket of the engine on my coach. It is a bulb looking instrument with two wires attached to it. The original had screws attaching the wires attached to it. The replacement has slide on connections. If it has not been painted it may have the name Kysor on it. The temp range is stamped on the hex part of the instrument. BB part number for the 190 version which means nothing except for reference purposes is 1594951. You can see one at http://www.medallionis. com under switches, senders and sensors, pn 1002-07478-30. The NC version.

As for oil temp mine runs in the 215- 230 range but is affected by OAT, radiator water temp and road speed. I have messed with that also. My understanding is there are two Detroit oil coolers which bolt onto the left side of the engine. They have a different number of cooling plates. It is cooled by the radiator water. So reduction of the average
water temp reduces oil temp but only by about 5-8%. In winter my oil temp will run about 215 at 62mph. In summer is runs 230 at the same speed simply because the average running water temp increases. The only way to reduce oil temp would be to add an oil cooler. My conclusion on that issue has been I have not done it. If I did, I believe the way to do it would be to somehow have the pick up on the pressure side off the main oil filter cycling oil to a separate air cooled cooler and dump the cooled oil into the pan which would then reduce overall pan oil temp before it is reintroduced onto the main oil pump pick up. Or have a larger engine oil cooler which is water cooled built. Probably cost prohibitive.

I have had lengthy discussions with BB and Detroit. Detroit did not spec the Alarmstat in BB engines. BB engineers did and I was never able to determine why it was installed in the first place but speculate it was intended to have the fan idle to
prevent dust from blowing all over creation, including being inducted into the fins of the radiator while operating off the highway at slower speeds.

As a practical matter, the Alarmstat forces temps to run higher than I like. While it is important to heat up the oil to remove moisture this is accomplished at 180-200 or 230. In aircraft, oil temp typically runs 180-190 and all is well.

So, in the summer I personally run my coach on fan override after I get on the highway and that keeps temps at a solid 190 on the water and around 220-230 on the oil. I simply shut off the fan override before leaving the highway and let the alarmstat control things them. In winter I allow the Alarmstat to do its thing.

I know, the fan supposedly robs horsepower. I have not been able to prove that either using the computer. Besides, I have a solid argument regarding horsepower and that fan which I will not go into indepth here. It is simple. On the
flat you are not using the HP. Climbing the mountain it is not available because the fan is on high: That assumes the HP rob was there in the first place.

Hope this gives you some insight into the ops.

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", Robert Johannesen wrote:
>
> ÂÂÂÂ Leroy, I would like to know also! Thanks for your response.
>
>  Where is the alarmstat for the fan normally located? I will check and see what its setting is. My goal was to have all the engine temps run lower. My oil temp is now about 230 constantly.
> ÂÂÂÂ I will go back an read my maintenance log to refresh my memory, because it has been about 10 years since I tried the change. I
remember being very disappointed. I know I didn't change my alarmstat for the fan because I didn't realize I had one. It is probably in the hydraulic circuit between the pump and the valve that opens the flow and maybe I can read the setting on the device itself.
> ÂÂÂÂ I will go back and research the system (I think I have the applicable BB prints)Âagain because I do want it to run cooler (Oil temp and water temp) if possible. I am also not opposed to designing an in line oil cooler.ÂHaving it closer to the water temp is OK with me. My heat exchanger for the Oil and water is so close to the frame on the left side of the block that it cannot be removed to inspect or examine it.
> ÂÂÂÂÂ I may set up and try my alarmstat the way you did sinceÂyou seem like it that way and your temps are very reasonable.
> ÂÂÂÂ Will let ya'll
know. Going back to VaBch next month so I may get it done and check it before then.
> Thanks, Bob J.
>
>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> From: Leroy
> To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com"
> Sent: Fri, March 5, 2010 4:34:57 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
>
> Â
> I am interested in this engine thermostat phenomenom. I messed with my cooling system for months and found a combination that works well for me.
> The engine thermostats do not control the fan cycles on my coach. I don't believe they do on yours. Could be wrong. An separate system incorporating an Alarmstat does that. Stock Alarmstats were 195 degrees with an approximate 8-10 degree spread. The fan cycled to high at
203-205 and back to about 193 at fan idle. I run a 190 degree Alarmstat with 180 degree thermostats. I can see the movement on the gauge and the VMSpc. My spread is between 188 and 195 depending on OAT. If I run my fan on override it holds at 180 in winter and 190 in summer.
> I sure would like to know how your fan is configured and why it would be cycling after you changed thermostats. If it ran 170 all the time it should never cycle but remain in idle or about 500rpm.
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, Robert Johannesen wrote:
> >
> > I dropped my thermoststsÂÂto 170s for about 6 months and the fan kept cycling on and off so often I went back to stock after talking to Detroit. I probably still have them if you want to try them on your rig.
> >
> > ÂÂ
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________
__
> > From: ronmarabito2002
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 1:58:50 PM
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
> >
> > ÂÂ
> > Mike: Why do you want to change thermostats to 170's? Good heat without overheat makes the engine run better and more efficiently. I think 180's is cool enough.
> >
> > R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@ .> wrote:
> > >
> > > I spent all afternoon (into the early evening) opening up the bed and then the innards to be able to replace alternator #1 - one more time. In mine, I also have to work around all the plumbing, which was conveniently installed in the way of the engine hatch! After opening the floor, you can't even see the
alt!!! I have to stand on the tranny and kind of remove the alt by feel. I bought a new one and replaced it. Not going to screw around rebuilding the old one again - 7000 miles since the last time has soured me on rebuilds. Besides, the new one was the same price as the last rebuild. This is really not a fun job.
> > >
> > > After I finished installing the alt, I then installed a replacement turbo intake tube that I found in a 'reclamation center' (aka: truck junk yard) to replace the one that broke in South Padre. The weld job did not hold up. If you want a good laugh, I called Detroit to see about getting a new one, because I really wanted a new one. When I heard $500 for a piece of exhaust pipe, I decided to try to find a used one. If anyone knows of a place to get part number 5101394 (yup, it's stamped right on it) for way less than $500, let me know please. And I used to think Harley parts were high dollar!
> >
>
> > > Man, I am beat up and sore all over! I left the floor open as I want to remove the 'infamous' coolant hoses to the air pump tomorrow. At least that's the current plan. I realllllly am not looking forward to that job! I think I will replace them with braided stainless steel hoses so I never have to do it again!
> > >
> > > While I was having fun, the wife pulled each screen window and washed them, did the Invisible Glass cleaning on each window, and then scrubbed each window track and silicon lubed them. They slide open really nice now.
> > >
> > > It seems my to-do list just keeps growing without getting shorter! Is it just me? I want to change the thermostats to 170s. I need to rebuild the Gast air pump. I have service the air dryer on the list. I plan to pull the electric heaters to clean them out. And on and on..... And I haven't even started on the wife's list of
modifications yet! I keep wondering: Are we having fun yet?
> > >
> > > Long day..... having fun.
> > >
> > >
> > > Mike Bulriss
> > > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> > > San Antonio, TX
> > >
> >
>

[ronmarabito2002]

Bob: My oil temperature runs there all the time.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Robert Johannesen wrote:
>
> Thanks, Leroy - sounds like we have gone through the same thought processes. I
will check it soon. As an aviator myself, 230 degrees of oil temp bothers me!
> Bob J
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Leroy
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sat, March 6, 2010 8:08:21 AM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
>
> Â
> The Alarmstat is located on the left hand side of the water pump in the water
jacket of the engine on my coach. It is a bulb looking instrument with two wires
attached to it. The original had screws attaching the wires attached to it. The
replacement has slide on connections. If it has not been painted it may have the
name Kysor on it. The temp range is stamped on the hex part of the instrument.
BB part number for the 190 version which means nothing except for reference
purposes is 1594951. You can see one at http://www.medallionis. com under switches,
senders and sensors, pn 1002-07478-30. The NC version.
>
> As for oil temp mine runs in the 215- 230 range but is affected by OAT,
radiator water temp and road speed. I have messed with that also. My
understanding is there are two Detroit oil coolers which bolt onto the left side
of the engine. They have a different number of cooling plates. It is cooled by
the radiator water. So reduction of the average water temp reduces oil temp but
only by about 5-8%. In winter my oil temp will run about 215 at 62mph. In summer
is runs 230 at the same speed simply because the average running water temp
increases. The only way to reduce oil temp would be to add an oil cooler. My
conclusion on that issue has been I have not done it. If I did, I believe the
way to do it would be to somehow have the pick up on the pressure side off the
main oil filter cycling oil to a separate air cooled cooler and dump the cooled
oil into the pan which would then reduce overall pan oil temp before it is
reintroduced onto the main oil pump pick
> up. Or have a larger engine oil cooler which is water cooled built. Probably
cost prohibitive.
>
> I have had lengthy discussions with BB and Detroit. Detroit did not spec the
Alarmstat in BB engines. BB engineers did and I was never able to determine why
it was installed in the first place but speculate it was intended to have the
fan idle to prevent dust from blowing all over creation, including being
inducted into the fins of the radiator while operating off the highway at slower
speeds.
>
> As a practical matter, the Alarmstat forces temps to run higher than I like.
While it is important to heat up the oil to remove moisture this is accomplished
at 180-200 or 230. In aircraft, oil temp typically runs 180-190 and all is well.
>
> So, in the summer I personally run my coach on fan override after I get on the
highway and that keeps temps at a solid 190 on the water and around 220-230 on
the oil. I simply shut off the fan override before leaving the highway and let
the alarmstat control things them. In winter I allow the Alarmstat to do its
thing.
>
> I know, the fan supposedly robs horsepower. I have not been able to prove that
either using the computer. Besides, I have a solid argument regarding horsepower
and that fan which I will not go into indepth here. It is simple. On the flat
you are not using the HP. Climbing the mountain it is not available because the
fan is on high: That assumes the HP rob was there in the first place.
>
> Hope this gives you some insight into the ops.
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, Robert Johannesen wrote:
> >
> >     Leroy, I would like to know also! Thanks for your response.
> >
> >     Where is the alarmstat for the fan normally located? I will
check and see what its setting is. My goal was to have all the engine temps
run lower. My oil temp is now about 230 constantly.
> >     I will go back an read my maintenance log to refresh my
memory, because it has been about 10 years since I tried the change. I remember
being very disappointed. I know I didn't change my alarmstat for the fan because
I didn't realize I had one. It is probably in the hydraulic circuit between the
pump and the valve that opens the flow and maybe I can read the setting on the
device itself.
> >     I will go back and research the system (I think I have the
applicable BB prints) again because I do want it to run cooler (Oil temp and
water temp) if possible. I am also not opposed to designing an in line oil
cooler. Having it closer to the water temp is OK with me. My heat exchanger
for the Oil and water is so close to the frame on the left side of the block
that it cannot be removed to inspect or examine it.
> >      I may set up and try my alarmstat the way you did
since you seem like it that way and your temps are very reasonable.
> >     Will let ya'll know. Going back to VaBch next month so I
may get it done and check it before then.
> > Thanks, Bob J.
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > From: Leroy
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Fri, March 5, 2010 4:34:57 PM
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
> >
> > ÂÂ
> > I am interested in this engine thermostat phenomenom. I messed with my
cooling system for months and found a combination that works well for me.
> > The engine thermostats do not control the fan cycles on my coach. I don't
believe they do on yours. Could be wrong. An separate system incorporating an
Alarmstat does that. Stock Alarmstats were 195 degrees with an approximate 8-10
degree spread. The fan cycled to high at 203-205 and back to about 193 at fan
idle. I run a 190 degree Alarmstat with 180 degree thermostats. I can see the
movement on the gauge and the VMSpc. My spread is between 188 and 195 depending
on OAT. If I run my fan on override it holds at 180 in winter and 190 in summer.
> > I sure would like to know how your fan is configured and why it would be
cycling after you changed thermostats. If it ran 170 all the time it should
never cycle but remain in idle or about 500rpm.
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, Robert Johannesen ...> wrote:
> > >
> > > I dropped my thermoststs to 170s for about 6 months and the fan
kept cycling on and off so often I went back to stock after talking to Detroit.
I probably still have them if you want to try them on your rig.
> > >
> > > ÂÂÂ
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > From: ronmarabito2002
> > > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 1:58:50 PM
> > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
> > >
> > > ÂÂÂ
> > > Mike: Why do you want to change thermostats to 170's? Good heat without
overheat makes the engine run better and more efficiently. I think 180's is cool
enough.
> > >
> > > R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@ .> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I spent all afternoon (into the early evening) opening up the bed and
then the innards to be able to replace alternator #1 - one more time. In mine, I
also have to work around all the plumbing, which was conveniently installed in
the way of the engine hatch! After opening the floor, you can't even see the
alt!!! I have to stand on the tranny and kind of remove the alt by feel. I
bought a new one and replaced it. Not going to screw around rebuilding the old
one again - 7000 miles since the last time has soured me on rebuilds. Besides,
the new one was the same price as the last rebuild. This is really not a fun
job.
> > > >
> > > > After I finished installing the alt, I then installed a replacement
turbo intake tube that I found in a 'reclamation center' (aka: truck junk yard)
to replace the one that broke in South Padre. The weld job did not hold up. If
you want a good laugh, I called Detroit to see about getting a new one, because
I really wanted a new one. When I heard $500 for a piece of exhaust pipe, I
decided to try to find a used one. If anyone knows of a place to get part number
5101394 (yup, it's stamped right on it) for way less than $500, let me know
please. And I used to think Harley parts were high dollar!
> > > >
> > > > Man, I am beat up and sore all over! I left the floor open as I want to
remove the 'infamous' coolant hoses to the air pump tomorrow. At least that's
the current plan. I realllllly am not looking forward to that job! I think I
will replace them with braided stainless steel hoses so I never have to do it
again!
> > > >
> > > > While I was having fun, the wife pulled each screen window and washed
them, did the Invisible Glass cleaning on each window, and then scrubbed each
window track and silicon lubed them. They slide open really nice now.
> > > >
> > > > It seems my to-do list just keeps growing without getting shorter! Is it
just me? I want to change the thermostats to 170s. I need to rebuild the Gast
air pump. I have service the air dryer on the list. I plan to pull the electric
heaters to clean them out. And on and on..... And I haven't even started on the
wife's list of modifications yet! I keep wondering: Are we having fun yet?
> > > >
> > > > Long day..... having fun.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Mike Bulriss
> > > > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> > > > San Antonio, TX
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[Rick Davis]

Mine will normally run220ish, but will quickly climb to230 and hold on any size of hill at all.

Rick Davis

1993 WBSA

Loudon, TN

---

From: ronmarabito2002
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, March 6, 2010 1:08:35 PM
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon

Bob: My oil temperature runs there all the time.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", Robert Johannesen wrote:
>
> Thanks, Leroy - sounds like we have gone through the same thought processes. I will check it soon. As an aviator myself, 230 degrees of oil temp bothers me!
> Bob J
>
>
>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> From: Leroy
> To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com"
> Sent: Sat, March 6, 2010 8:08:21 AM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
>
> Â
> The
Alarmstat is located on the left hand side of the water pump in the water jacket of the engine on my coach. It is a bulb looking instrument with two wires attached to it. The original had screws attaching the wires attached to it. The replacement has slide on connections. If it has not been painted it may have the name Kysor on it. The temp range is stamped on the hex part of the instrument. BB part number for the 190 version which means nothing except for reference purposes is 1594951. You can see one at http://www.medallionis. com under switches, senders and sensors, pn 1002-07478-30. The NC version.
>
> As for oil temp mine runs in the 215- 230 range but is affected by OAT, radiator water temp and road speed. I have messed with that also. My understanding is there are two Detroit oil coolers which bolt onto the left side of the engine. They have a different number of cooling plates. It is cooled by the radiator water. So reduction of the
average water temp reduces oil temp but only by about 5-8%. In winter my oil temp will run about 215 at 62mph. In summer is runs 230 at the same speed simply because the average running water temp increases. The only way to reduce oil temp would be to add an oil cooler. My conclusion on that issue has been I have not done it. If I did, I believe the way to do it would be to somehow have the pick up on the pressure side off the main oil filter cycling oil to a separate air cooled cooler and dump the cooled oil into the pan which would then reduce overall pan oil temp before it is reintroduced onto the main oil pump pick
> up. Or have a larger engine oil cooler which is water cooled built. Probably cost prohibitive.
>
> I have had lengthy discussions with BB and Detroit. Detroit did not spec the Alarmstat in BB engines. BB engineers did and I was never able to determine why it was installed in the first place but speculate it was
intended to have the fan idle to prevent dust from blowing all over creation, including being inducted into the fins of the radiator while operating off the highway at slower speeds.
>
> As a practical matter, the Alarmstat forces temps to run higher than I like. While it is important to heat up the oil to remove moisture this is accomplished at 180-200 or 230. In aircraft, oil temp typically runs 180-190 and all is well.
>
> So, in the summer I personally run my coach on fan override after I get on the highway and that keeps temps at a solid 190 on the water and around 220-230 on the oil. I simply shut off the fan override before leaving the highway and let the alarmstat control things them. In winter I allow the Alarmstat to do its thing.
>
> I know, the fan supposedly robs horsepower. I have not been able to prove that either using the computer. Besides, I have a solid argument regarding horsepower and that fan
which I will not go into indepth here. It is simple. On the flat you are not using the HP. Climbing the mountain it is not available because the fan is on high: That assumes the HP rob was there in the first place.
>
> Hope this gives you some insight into the ops.
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, Robert Johannesen wrote:
> >
> >  Leroy, I would like to know also! Thanks for your response.
> >
> >  Where is the alarmstat for the fan normally located? I will check and see what its setting is. My goal was to have all the engine temps run lower. My oil temp is now about 230 constantly.
> >  I will go back an read my maintenance log to refresh my memory, because it has been about 10
years since I tried the change. I remember being very disappointed. I know I didn't change my alarmstat for the fan because I didn't realize I had one. It is probably in the hydraulic circuit between the pump and the valve that opens the flow and maybe I can read the setting on the device itself.
> >  I will go back and research the system (I think I have the applicable BB prints)ÂÂagain because I do want it to run cooler (Oil temp and water temp) if possible. I am also not opposed to designing an in line oil cooler.ÂÂHaving it closer to the water temp is OK with me. My heat exchanger for the Oil and water is so close to the frame on the left side of the block that it cannot be removed to inspect or examine it.
> > ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ​ I may set up and try my alarmstat the way you did sinceÂÂyou seem like it
that way and your temps are very reasonable.
> >  Will let ya'll know. Going back to VaBch next month so I may get it done and check it before then.
> > Thanks, Bob J.
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > From: Leroy
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Fri, March 5, 2010 4:34:57 PM
> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
> >
> > ÂÂ
> > I am interested in this engine thermostat phenomenom. I messed with my cooling system for months and found a combination that works well for me.
> > The engine thermostats do not control the fan cycles on my coach. I don't believe they do on yours. Could be wrong. An separate system incorporating an Alarmstat does that. Stock Alarmstats were 195 degrees with
an approximate 8-10 degree spread. The fan cycled to high at 203-205 and back to about 193 at fan idle. I run a 190 degree Alarmstat with 180 degree thermostats. I can see the movement on the gauge and the VMSpc. My spread is between 188 and 195 depending on OAT. If I run my fan on override it holds at 180 in winter and 190 in summer.
> > I sure would like to know how your fan is configured and why it would be cycling after you changed thermostats. If it ran 170 all the time it should never cycle but remain in idle or about 500rpm.
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, Robert Johannesen wrote:
> > >
> > > I dropped my thermoststsÂÂÂto 170s for about 6 months and the fan kept cycling on and off so often I went back to stock after talking to Detroit. I probably still have them if you want to try them on your rig.
> > >
> >
> ÂÂÂ
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ __
> > > From: ronmarabito2002
> > > To: WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com
> > > Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 1:58:50 PM
> > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: A long afternoon
> > >
> > > ÂÂÂ
> > > Mike: Why do you want to change thermostats to 170's? Good heat without overheat makes the engine run better and more efficiently. I think 180's is cool enough.
> > >
> > > R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@ yahoogroups. com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@ .> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I spent all afternoon (into the early evening) opening up the bed and then the innards to be able
to replace alternator #1 - one more time. In mine, I also have to work around all the plumbing, which was conveniently installed in the way of the engine hatch! After opening the floor, you can't even see the alt!!! I have to stand on the tranny and kind of remove the alt by feel. I bought a new one and replaced it. Not going to screw around rebuilding the old one again - 7000 miles since the last time has soured me on rebuilds. Besides, the new one was the same price as the last rebuild. This is really not a fun job.
> > > >
> > > > After I finished installing the alt, I then installed a replacement turbo intake tube that I found in a 'reclamation center' (aka: truck junk yard) to replace the one that broke in South Padre. The weld job did not hold up. If you want a good laugh, I called Detroit to see about getting a new one, because I really wanted a new one. When I heard $500 for a piece of exhaust pipe, I decided to
try to find a used one. If anyone knows of a place to get part number 5101394 (yup, it's stamped right on it) for way less than $500, let me know please. And I used to think Harley parts were high dollar!
> > > >
> > > > Man, I am beat up and sore all over! I left the floor open as I want to remove the 'infamous' coolant hoses to the air pump tomorrow. At least that's the current plan. I realllllly am not looking forward to that job! I think I will replace them with braided stainless steel hoses so I never have to do it again!
> > > >
> > > > While I was having fun, the wife pulled each screen window and washed them, did the Invisible Glass cleaning on each window, and then scrubbed each window track and silicon lubed them. They slide open really nice now.
> > > >
> > > > It seems my to-do list just keeps growing without getting shorter! Is it just me? I want
to change the thermostats to 170s. I need to rebuild the Gast air pump. I have service the air dryer on the list. I plan to pull the electric heaters to clean them out. And on and on..... And I haven't even started on the wife's list of modifications yet! I keep wondering: Are we having fun yet?
> > > >
> > > > Long day..... having fun.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Mike Bulriss
> > > > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> > > > San Antonio, TX
> > > >
> > >
> >
>